Featured Route: Pyramid Peak, Northeast Ridge

Length: 8 miles
Elevation gain: 4,420 feet
Difficulty: class 4 (loose steep rock, moderate route finding challenges)
Exposure: moderate

From Maroon Lake, follow the Crater Lake trail for 1.5 miles to a level clearing filled with glacial moraine boulders. Find a trail on the left (south) side of the trail marked by a large cairn. Follow this trail as it switchbacks through the forest and across some scree slopes to a notch left of a large pinnacle. The trail end at the terminus of a large rock glacier that empties an “amphitheater” at the bottom of Pyramid’s North Face. Follow the path of least resistance up the rock glacier to the bottom of the face, turn left (east) to the bottom of a scree slope left of the main difficulties of the North Face. The approach is over.

Climb steep, loose scree on a well-trodden climbers trail 1,000’ to a saddle a little less than 13,000’. The rest of the route is visible above you. Ascend the ridge, staying mostly on its right side past another, smaller saddle up to a notch with a steep headwall. Descend through some boulders to the left side of the ridge. Find a climbers trail that traverses over a couple rock ribs and across the “Cliff Traverse”, a narrow ledge that pinches down to a narrow crux in the middle. Continue on a strong climber’s trail past another rock rib, across a dirty gully until you reach the Green Couloir.


Now the fun part begins. Climb the Green Couloir for a couple hundred feet, being very cautious with loose rock (class 3). It might be best to climb this one at a time to avoid knocking rocks on each other. Exit the green rock left at some cairns and climb steepening rock through several cliffbands. There are several ways to negotiate this section, the path of least resistance climbs a small chimney and cliffband crux that are both class 4. Keep in mind that downclimbing is harder for most people. Stay left of the ridge itself and make a few class 3 moves just before breaking loose onto the amazing summit. Enjoy one of my favorite summit platforms.

Featured Route: Snowmass Mountain East Slopes

EAST SLOPES OF SNOWMASS MOUNTAIN
Length: 22 miles
Total Elevation gain: 5,700'
Difficulty: class 3

OVERVIEW

The East Slopes (standard) route on Snowmass Mountain is one of Colorado's most spectacular 14er adventures. At 22 miles, it is a very long hike, and I recommend 2 days. Though the hike in and out will be more difficult with the extra gear, the extra time will allow you to take your time and enjoy this beautiful place. Although Snowmass Lake is very likely one of the busiest lakes in the Colorado's backcountry, it is quite beautiful and offers numerous opportunities for places to camp.

Like most climbs in the Elk Range, the East Slopes of Snowmass Mountain is steep, loose and dangerous. It has proven fatal for several mountaineers over the years. Almost the entire route once you have passed the Snowmass Lake is one slippery scree and once you have pass around 13,500' the route becomes particularly dangerous. Wear a helmet, use caution, and be careful not to climb directly underneath another party.

THE ROUTE

The long approach to the East Slopes of Snowmass Mountain is one of the longest for any standard route on a 14er in Colorado. The approach alone is over 8 miles and gains over 2,500' in elevation. The hike is long an provides some beautiful views. After 6.5 miles you must cross the creek. This can be a challenge at high spring runoff levels. Depending on the flow level/wood conditions people usually tiptoe across a log jam. If the water is low you can sometimes cross the creek directly below the jam. Not far after negotiating this obstacle, you reach the lake itself. There are many good campsites here. Beware, however, of rules against camping too close to the lake and against fire in general.

Hike along the east and south sides of the lake and find a climber's trail that starts up the loose rock on the lake's west end. The approach is over. Climb up the steepening slope along a vague climber's trail into the huge basin on Snowmass Peak's east slopes. Depending on the time of year and conditions there may be some snow to climb at the top of this basin. The usual route veers a bit south as you approach the ridge and finds a notch through the cliffs to reach the summit ridge. In dry, late-summer conditions, or if the snow covering is complete, you can hike more directly towards the summit, finding a breach in the cliffs and reaching the summit ridge near 13,900'. From here you traverse slightly onto the west side of the mountain and pick your way through some class 3 boulders to the summit.

 Looking across to Capitol Peak from Snowmass's summit

DIRECTIONS
From Highway 82 28 miles south of Glenwood Springs (or 13 miles north of the roundabout in Aspen) turn west at the town of Old Snowmass (not to be confused with Snowmass Village, the ski area) onto Snowmass Creek Road. Turn left at a T-junction after a mile and a half (right will take you to Capitol). You hit the dirt road seven miles after turning off Hwy 82 and cross the creek at mile 10.5. Take a right at another intersection a half mile later and the trailhead is only about a quarter-mile beyond that.

TRIP REPORTS

The summit of Snowmass Mtn

Geneva Lake, Snowmass Mountain, and the Four Pass Loop- A seven day backpack trip following the Four Pass Loop but also with extensions to Geneva Lake and an ascent of the East Slopes (standard) route of Snowmass Mountain.

LINKS
East Slopes on Summitpost.org

East slopes on 14ers.com

Mountain Profile: Mount Columbia (14,073' or 4289 m)

INTRO

Near the summit of Mount Columbia

Overshadowed by its taller neighbor and third highest peak in Colorado Mount Harvard, and marred by a protracted scree field through which the standard route ascends, Mount Columbia is sometimes poo-pooed by 14er climbers and other mountaineers. I have often heard the standard West Slopes route described as "the worst route on any 14er". While I won't tell you that it is my favorite route, I will say that I enjoyed my climb of it back in 2009. And if you are un-inspired by the stories you have heard of the West Slopes, consider an alternate route such as the East Ridge or spice it up by taking the direct ridge traverse (the "Rabbits") to Mount Harvard (class 5.7). Regardless of what you have heard or whatever route you choose to climb, Mt. Columbia is a worthy peak and if you allow yourself you will have a good time. Should you feel forced into the standard route and are feeling down about it, consider backpacking in to the Horn Fork Basin and staying for several days, maybe incorporating a climb of Harvard as well. I find this to be a beautiful, albeit somewhat busy, place and have never left disappointed when I have entered.

DIRECTIONS

Harvard Lakes Trailhead
The Harvard Lakes Trail provides access to Columbia's eastern side and is the approach trail for the East and Southeast Ridge routes.Off Highway 24 in Buena Vista turn west (right if you are heading towards Salida) on Chaffee County 350. After 2 miles turn right on Chaffee County 361. A quarter mile farther the road turns to dirt. Half a mile farther, turn left onto Chaffee County 365. Reach the trailhead 3.5 miles farther on the north side of the road.

North Cottonwood Trailhead
North Cottonwood Trail is the best access point for the Horn Fork Basin and is the approach for the standard West Slopes route on Columbia as well as the South Slopes (standard) route on Harvard as well as the combination routes. From the Harvard Lakes Trailhead, continue for another mile and a half to a large parking area and trailhead at the end of the road.

Three Elk Trailhead
Find Chaffee County 350 off Highway 24 in Buena Vista. After 2 miles turn right onto Chaffee Countt 361. After almost 4 miles, turn west onto Chaffee County 368. After another mile, turn left onto 368A and right onto FR 368 just a little farther. The trailhead is marked three-quarters of a mile later.

ROUTES
West Slopes (10.5 miles; 4,250' elevation gain; class 2) 

The west slopes is the shortest and easiest route on Mount Columbia. Taking the same approach as the standard South Slopes route on Mount Harvard, you follow North Cottonwood Trail into the Horn Fork Basin. After just over 4 miles the route veers west and starts up a long slog up steep, sometimes loose scree. This gnarly slopes gains over 2,000' and is unpleasant to descend. Consider another descent route or something such as the Columbia-Harvard traverse. Once you have reached the ridge, hike a rolling half mile north to the summit.

East Ridge (12 miles; 5,300' elevation gain; class 2)
The East Ridge of Mount Columbia provides an engaging alternative to the oft-cursed West Slopes. Follow the Three Elk Trail as it winds through a beautiful forest, crossing some logging roads, dropping into a small gorge with a creek crossing, and finally reaching the end of the trail at a flat spot near  treeline. From here, climb northwest towards the east ridge. Once you have found the ridge near 12,500' follow it up and over several false summits to the actual summit.

Southeast Ridge (11 miles; 5,129' elevation gain; class 2)
The Southeast Ridge provides another alternative to the loose, gravelly slopes of the standard route. From the trailhead, follow the Harvard Lakes Trail/Colorado Trail through the forest for under a mile until it reaches the ridge proper. Leave the Colorado Trail and follow the serpentine ridge all the way to the summit, crossing Point 13,298 in the process. The last half mile joins with the West Slopes route to the summit.

Harvard/Columbia combination (14 miles; 5,900' elevation gain; class 2)
This is the easiest way to climb Columbia and Harvard together. Climb the West Slopes route on Columbia all the way to the summit. From Columbia's summit, descend north, staying well east of the connecting ridge with Harvard. Staying on the ridge proper will require class 4 and 5 climbing (see "The Rabbits"), descend to 12,800' and contour northwest until it is clear that you are past the ridge proper's pinnacles and spires. Ascend an arduous talus slope to Harvard's east ridge and follow this to the summit.

"The Rabbits" traverse (13.5 miles; 5,600' elevation gain; class 5.7)

Pinnacles on the connecting ridge with Harvard

This is the direct traverse between Harvard and Columbia. It requires some hard, exposed scrambling and one short pitch of 5.7 climbing. If you are doing the traverse from Harvard to Columbia you can rappel this pitch. It is described here from Columbia to Harvard. Follow the West Slopes of Columbia route to its summit. Descend northwest along the ridge proper. Climb or traverse around Point 13,497 with some hard scrambling. Reach a notch at the base of the Rabbits and climb the short, crux 5.7 pitch to the ridge's east side. Scramble around  the remaining pinnacles on the east side and arrive at the 13,100' saddle between the two mountains. After climbing Point 13,516 you reach Harvard East Ridge. Follow this route to the summit.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
Mount Columbia is in the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness Area and special regulations apply.

TRIP REPORTS
None at this time

LINKS
Mount Columbia on summitpost.org

Mount Columbia on 14ers.com