UPDATED: Stats and Analysis of 14er Deaths This Decade (2010-2017)

The blossoming popularity of hiking and climbing on Colorado's 14ers has also brought an increase in accidents on these peaks. This article is an attempt to analyze the statistics from these terrible incidents and (hopefully) discover some useful conclusions to prevent such tragedies from occurring again in the future.

The Elk Range, statistically one of the most dangerous
ranges in the state

While every effort has been made to ensure that the data is complete, it is quite possible that some or several accidents have been overlooked. Every year there are accidents that go unreported and sifting through the barrage of information on the internet is not easy, especially regarding events that may have occurred several years ago. Still, this information can prove a useful tool in keeping all of who venture into the highest places of  this amazing state safe.

UPDATED

This article was originally published 1/3/17 but has been updated to include data from the tragic 2017 season.

STATS AT A GLANCE

Total deaths on Colorado 14ers (2010-2017): 57

Deaths by mountain: Longs Peak (9), Maroon Bells (9), Capitol (7), Crestone Needle (5), Crestone Peak (3), Kit Carson (3),  Snowmass Mountain (2), El Diente (2), Harvard (2), Evans (2), Missouri (2), Torreys (2), Princeton (2), Quandary (1), Windom (1), Antero (1),  Little Bear (1), Yale (1), Blanca (1), Challenger Point (1)

Deaths by gender: M (50), F (7)

Deaths by age range: >20 (2), 20-29 (16), 30-39 (16), 40-49 (6), 50-59 (13), 60 or over (5)

14er deaths by mountain range: Elk Range (18), Sangre De Cristo (14), Front Range (13),   Sawatch Range (8), San Juan Range (3), Tenmile-Mosquito Range (1)

Deaths by Cause: fall (38), falling rocks (5), avalanche (3), heart attack (2), lightning (1), unclear (8)

Deaths by Year: 2010 (10), 2011 (10), 2012 (6), 2013 (5), 2014 (6), 2015 (4), 2016 (5), 2017 (11)

(Note: I have combined the Maroon Bells in the above list due to the number of accidents that occurred on the traverse between them making it hard to attribute these deaths to one or the other of these peaks) 

ANALYSIS/CONCLUSIONS

There are a few glaring details from the above statistics that are immediately apparent. For one, more than half of these deaths (33) occurred on only six mountains (Longs Peak, the Maroon Bells, Capitol Peak, and the Crestones). While none of these should really come as a surprise, it is interesting to see just how concentrated this list is. Longs Peak attracts a high number of accidents (almost all of which occurred on the standard Keyhole Route) because it's steep and exposed from every approach. On the Crestones, it is noteworthy that half of the eight deaths between the two of them occurred on Crestone Needle's Ellingwood Arete, a technical (5.7) multipitch climb, and only three fatal accidents have occurred on their standard routes. Per capita, the Deadly Bells lead for the dubious prize so far this decade as the most dangerous 14ers by their easiest lines. It doesn't take a Nobel Prize winner to understand why: these stunning peaks maybe be beautiful but their rock is far from it.

In 2017 Capitol Peak gained notoriety when five people died on its slopes. Three of these five victims died as a result of selecting the incorrect descent route. The so-dubbed "Death Gully" has lured people in the past due to its innocuous appearance from above and people's fear of crossing the Knife Edge on the return journey. It is imperative for aspiring climbers of Capitol Peak to understand THERE IS NO EASIER WAY to climb this mountain than the standard route. If there was an easier route, that would be the standard route! 

Another glaring and thought-provoking statistic is the ratio of males to females that have died on Colorado 14ers. A staggering 88% of the 14er fatalities this decade were males. From an analytical standpoint it is hard to say whether this reflects the numbers of males attempting 14ers over the numbers of females or some other factor (i.e. male tendency towards risk-taking, etc.)

It is also quite clear that the 14ers of the Sangre De Cristo and Elk Ranges are the deadliest. While the Front Range is tied with the Sangres for most fatal accidents total, this stat is skewed by the sheer number of attempts, as the Front Range 14ers (particularly Longs) are some of the state's most popular.

Analyzing the cause of death was somewhat challenging. Some of the information listed multiple causes, i.e. a falling rock strikes a climber causing them to lose their grip and fall. This sort of accident makes it difficult to categorize the accident. With other accidents vague reporting (often by reporters who have little or no mountaineering experience) made determining the actual cause of death very difficult. One thing is clear, however, is that the majority of 14er deaths involved a fatal fall on a mountain. The cause of these falls, however, is vitally important and sometimes difficult to say. My guess is that most occur due to breaking hand or footholds. The other leading causes of accidents are rockfalls/landslides and avalanches.

SOME SURPRISES

Capitol Peak has been site of seven fatal accidents
so far this decade, including five in 2017 alone

What can also be useful from a data set like this is considering not just what is there but what is not. For example, neither Sunlight Peak, Wilson Peak, nor Pyramid Peak appear on this list. These three mountains are oft-touted as some of the hardest/most dangerous in the state yet nobody has died on any of them so far this decade. Also, there was only one death on Little Bear, another peak that is often regarded as the most dangerous of all the 14ers. In all these instances, however, these low numbers could be the product of much fewer numbers of attempts.

The San Juans. A beautiful range with a large number of rugged 14ers notorious for crumbly rock, yet we only see three deaths from this range. This again, could partially be a product of their distance from the populous cities of the Front Range, and therefore enjoy a proportionally smaller number of attempts. Or maybe the San Juans are not as fierce or chossy as their reputation makes out.

HOW TO AVOID AN ACCIDENT

Statistically speaking, there are a couple of easy things you can do to virtually eliminate your odds of ending up on a list like this in the future:

1) If your main goal in Colorado mountaineering is simply not to die, then do NOT climb the Maroon Bells, Capitol Peak, Longs Peak, or the Crestones. Again, over half of the fatal accidents this decade have occurred on these six peaks. Of course, many people simply cannot put their backs to the siren call of these dangerous peaks. For those, perhaps extra care should be taken to exercise the greatest possible caution: climb in good weather, wear a helmet, start early, avoid crowds, and tread lightly!

2) Be a woman. Apparently simply being a woman slices your chances of dying on a 14er considerably. However, I have not been able to find reliable stats on the ratio of female to male climbers attempting 14ers, or even better, starting out on individual peaks, so it is hard to know a woman's odds of dying are actually slimmer or if the difference is merely proportional.

3) Avoid falling. Of course this is always the goal, but most of the fatal accidents on 14ers involved the victim falling. From my experience reading about these accidents, breaking/crumbling hand or footholds is almost always the cause of falling related accidents. Maintain three points of contact on the difficult sections of steep mountains at all times, carefully test hold before weighting them, and rope up if it is safe and practical (which, unfortunately, is often not possible on the loose rock of some of Colorado's most dangerous mountains).

FINAL THOUGHTS

Though many of us like to say we "live" for the mountains, probably none of us wants to die there before our time. We accept a certain degree of risk knowing risk is the only path to reward. These 46 deaths are all tragic. The widespread consequences of losing even one life can ripple out and touch so many. But compared to the tens (perhaps hundreds) of thousands of people that attempted Colorado's 14ers this decade, 45 deaths is a very small percentage. We all venture to these high places knowing what risks we take and the potential consequences of our actions. We are willing to accept these calculated risks because it is only in the mountains that we truly feel alive.

RELATED POSTS

-2016 mountaineering deaths in Colorado

-Climber dies on Thunder Pyramid

-Climber dies on Maroon Peak

-Climber Dies on Capitol Peak

 Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Follow us on Twitter!
Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

Top 8 Least Busy 14ers in Colorado

The companion piece to last week's Top 8 Busiest 14ers post, this article takes data from the same sources (ListsofJohn.com, 14ers.com, and Summitpost.org) and approximates the least busy 14ers in Colorado.

Capitol Peak in the distance from Snowmass Mtn, number
six on this list

Anybody who has climbed a 14er in the last 10 years knows they are popular, and getting more so all the time as "ticking" them off becomes more and more trendy. So which mountains see the least action? Which are you most likely to find some semblance of solitude?

Methodology

As with the "busiest 14ers" article, we took the summit logs and reported ascents from three popular mountaineering websites and gave each a score, 1 being the least number of reports, 2 the second least and so on. We averaged those scores to create an approximation of which peaks are the least busy of the 14ers.

Possibility for Error

It is important to note that the only way to know for sure how many people actually climb these peaks would be to count every single person who climbs every single peak on every single day. This, of course, is nearly impossible. There are many ways the data here could be skewed, including bias tilted towards which mountaineers are likely to sign up and report ascents on these three websites, as well as factors such as repeat ascents and others. Regardless, we feel this list gives a good estimation of which Colorado 14ers see the least amount of traffic.

If You Really Want Solitude

If solitude is your thing, we suggest NOT climbing the 14ers. Period. Or perhaps, climbing them in the off season, like the dead of winter. Sure they are great mountains, and climbing them gives you a certain amount of clout in social circles, but if your main goal is to climb great peaks with a sense of adventure, a wilderness experience, and enjoy solitude, we suggest aiming for 13ers and 12ers. In many cases, the climbing on these peaks is just as good, arguably better, and you still get the same satisfaction that climbing any high mountain can provide.

All of that being said, here are the eight least busy 14ers according to our calculations:

1. Culebra Peak

It was no surprise that the only 14er that you must pay heavily to climb had the fewest reports of people climbing it. I have never climbed Culebra, and though I have climbed almost all of the 14ers I have no plans to do so in the immediate future. Were it of outstanding aesthetic value, not merely average as most seem to consider it, perhaps Culebra would see more use.

2. Mount Wilson

This was a bit of a surprise. Clearly there is a direct correlation between a mountain's difficulty and its relative popularity, but to see Mt. Wilson land all the way at number 2 was more than expected. Mount Wilson is Colorado's 16th highest peak. It is highly prominent and has a stunning and highly visible position relative to the popular mountain town of Telluride. All of this, however, apparently is outweighed by its long standard route, class 4 difficulty and distance from Front Range cities.

3. Little Bear

Little Bear is oft-touted as Colorado's most dangerous, if not most difficult, 14er, therefore it came as no surprise  that it landed in the top 3. I know several people that put off Little Bear until they had just a few 14ers left before completion. Add in its distance from Front Range big cities, and the reason for its relative inactivity makes sense.

4. Mount Eolus

Eolus is a hard peak to get to and somewhat more difficult than most by its standard route (class 3). And frankly, it is not very famous. I've known some people who are fairly acquainted with Colorado's backcountry that are not even aware of a 14er that goes by that strange name, Eolus.

5. Wilson Peak

The Wilson group apparently are not very busy. The reason Wilson Peak is slightly busier than Mount Wilson is probably due to its shorter and technically easier standard route. Still, however, this little corner of Colorado magnificence is significantly less crowded than other comparable destinations.

6. Snowmass Mountain

Snowmass Mountain is long, scrambly, far from Denver, and relatively low in stature for a 14er (ranked #31). We saw these factors repeating over and over while comprising this list and thus it is no surprise that Snowmass Mountain landed at #6.

The backside of the Maroon Bells from Frigid Air Pass

7. Sunlight Peak

The Chicago Basin 14ers are difficult to get to, and very far from Denver. The fame (or infamy) of Sunlight Peak's summit cap, however, may be the reason why it sees slightly more ascents than neighboring Eolus.

8. Maroon Peak

Maroon Peak is perhaps Colorado's most photographed mountain. It is a stunning and famous peak. It is also one of Colorado's most dangerous. Over half of all deaths reported on Colorado's 14ers so far this decade occurred on the Maroon Bells, the Crestones, and Longs Peak. Despite its fame, Maroon Peak apparently does not see near as much traffic as other 14ers.

Honorable Mentions

Capitol Peak, Ellingwood Point, Windom, and Pyramid Peak were all next up if we extended this list past eight. Also North Maroon, North Eolus, and El Diente would have made the top 8, but we did not include any "unranked" peaks that didn't have at least 300 feet of topographical prominence.

Analysis

There were a few surprises when the data was finally crunched to create this list. Some of these peaks, like the Maroon Bells, are quite famous, and  thus seem more popular than they are. If we were to create a list of most pageviews or photographs on these websites, a whole different set of mountains would have emerged. But popularity in terms of mythical status and internet fame did not equate to reported ascents. What wasn't surprising was that Culebra topped the list. There's one way to reduce a peak's use: charge $150 to climb it. It is also not surprising that some of the state's hardest peaks are the least busy: Sunlight, Mt. Wilson, Maroon Peak, Little Bear. And if we rounded out the list to 15, we would also have seen Pyramid Peak, Capitol Peak and both Crestones. In fact, all of these mountains here (except Culebra) are at least class 3 by their standard routes. Distance from Denver was also a clear factor, as every mountain in the top 8 is from the Sangre De Cristo, Elk and San Juan ranges. 

An interesting note that reinforced just how busy even these least popular 14ers are, Colorado's highest 13er, Grizzly Peak (which was once considered a 14er until a better survey proved otherwise) would have easily topped this list. In fact, even among the busiest 13ers we could think of (Silverheels, Meeker, Mt. Sheridan, etc.) we weren't able to find any with more reported ascents than Culebra.

Enjoy these peaks. Climb them, take care of them, but even on these mountains don't expect solitude on a summer weekend.

RELATED ARTICLES
-Ten Mountains You Probably Haven't Climbed But Should
-14ers the Hard Way
-Top 8 Busiest 14ers
-14ers are Dead

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Follow us on Twitter!
Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

The Four Sacred Peaks of the Navajo

The Four Sacred Mountains of the Navajo once formed the four boundaries of the Navajo People. One peak was accorded to each direction. This former region, known as the "Dinétah" was far larger than the reservation they have been given jurisdiction over today. Also attached to these peaks were other religious and social connotations. Two of these peaks are located in Colorado, including the famous fourteener we now called Blanca Peak.

Here is a description of each of the Four Sacred Peaks, a brief look at their history and symbology from the perspective of the Navajo as well as their place in the modern mountaineering canon.

NORTH
Hesperus Mountain (13,232')
The Sacred Peak of the North is Hesperus Mountain, or Dibé Nitsaa in the traditional language which means "Big Mountain Sheep." Dibé Nitsaa was said to have been assembled from Black Jet, a gemstone and precursor to coal, and fastened down with a rainbow beam for peace and harmony. It is said to represent the coming of darkness and to protect the people from danger and evil.

Today, Hesperus is Colorado's 451st tallest ranked peak. Though not a common mountaineering challenge, it is a worthy endeavor with 2,852 feet of topographical prominence (23rd in the state). It's easiest route is a moderate but significant route with around 3,000' of elevation gain and is rated a modest class 2 with short bits of nearly class 3 scrambling.

EAST

Blanca Peak (14,345')
The Sacred Peak of the East is Blanca Peak, or Sisnaajini, which translates to Black Belted Mountain. Since it is in the east, the direction of the sunrise, the mountain was thought to determine the orientation of a person's mind each morning. Traditionally, the doors of Navajo hogans also faced east.

Blanca Peak is the highest and probably most famous of the Four Sacred Peaks. It is Colorado's fourth-highest mountain, and one of the 53 ranked peaks above 14,000 feet. The standard route on Blanca Peak is a long climb, but only rated class 2. Reasonably athletic people should have no difficult climbing it.

SOUTH
Mount Taylor (11,301')

The Sacred Peak of the South is Mount Taylor near Grants, New Mexico. Mount Taylor is the lowest of the four peaks and probably the least well known. In the native tongue, it was known as Tsoodzil, or Turquoise Mountain. The mountain was said to be made of a turquoise blanket, and female imagery and the color blue are woven into many aspects of its mythology. It was decorated with female rain.

Mount Taylor is an extinct volcano, and from a mountaineering perspective perhaps the least interesting of the sacred mountains. The hike to the summit is a short, 4-mile trek that should take no more than a few hours. It is class 1.

WEST
Humphreys Peak (12,633')

The Sacred Peak of the West is Mount Humphreys, the tallest of the so-called San Francisco Peaks. The Navajo name for the peak is Doko’o’osliid, or Abalone Shell Mountain. Legend tells that it was made from an abalone blanket to create an understanding of life and social unity. It was anchored with sunbeams and covered with a blanket of yellow cloud. It was decorated with male rain.

Humphreys Peak is the eroded remains of an ancient stratovolcano. It is the highest peak in the state of Arizona and thus one of the 50 state high points. It is a massive and ultra-prominent peak, the 26th most prominent mountain in the Lower 48 with 6,039' of topographical prominence. The standard route is mostly class 1 with a few short sections of class 2 but is a significant journey requiring most of a day to complete.

SOURCES
Navajopeople.org- Brief descriptions of each peak and short lessons in their symbology and definitions.

Summitpost.org- Descriptions of the routes of each of the mountains.

Wikipedia.org- General info about geology as well as public domain images

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
For information about how to contact us, visit this link

Peak of the Week: Blanca Peak

INTRO

Blanca Peak, Colorado's 4th tallest mountain, on the left

Blanca Peak is special for a number of reasons. At 14,345' it is the fourth tallest mountain in the state of Colorado and the tallest outside of the Sawatch Range. It is also considered "ultra-prominent" and with 5,326 feet of topographical prominence is the third most prominent peak in the state (behind Elbert and Pikes). To make it even more interesting, Blanca is known as Sisnaajini, the "Sacred Mountain of the East" to the Navajo people. According to their beliefs it's orientation in the east, the direction of the sunrise and thus the beginning of the day, means that Blanca "determines the orientation of a person’s mind and physical presence on earth."

By many measures it is a worthy and interesting peak and is a mountain that should make Coloradoans proud. As the anchor and gem of the Sangre De Cristo Range, it is important for many reasons.

DIRECTIONS
As with Little Bear, an ascent of Blanca Peak starts at the Lake Como trailhead. Turn onto Hwy 150 about 26 miles east of Alamosa heading towards the Great Sand Dunes National Monument. Just over 3 miles later, follow a sign towards Lake Como. Go as far as your vehicle will allow you, as much as 7 miles all the way to Lake Como (for a burly off-roader).

ROUTES
Northwest Ridge (class 2)
This is the standard route on Blanca Peak and the easiest way to climb the peak. It is very long, however, and without a stout 4WD vehicle you will be forced to gain over 6,000' of elevation, making it one of the more serious undertakings in terms of stamina in the 14er world. Though there are some tricky ledges and steep terrain past the lake and above 13,000' the difficulty should never stretch into the class 3 realm.

Blanca-Little Bear Traverse (class 4)
This ultra-exposed traverse is listed in Gerry Roach's classic guidebook as one of the four classics 14er traverse in the state. He also considers it to be the most difficult. It is famous for exposure and commitment. Remember that you will have to climb Little Bear's famous "Hourglass" just to get started (most people do the traverse from Little Bear to Blanca.)

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
Blanca is a massive peak and takes a bit more grunt effort than many 14ers. It is also one of the four sacred peaks of the Navajo so treat it with respect!

LINKS

Sisnaajini- A discussion of Blanca Peak by the Navajo Nation including many thoughts about what it means to them historically and symbolically.

14ers.com- A detailed look at the standard route of Blanca Peak

Summitpost.org- a detailed page of Blanca Peak including photos, route descriptions and more

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
For information about how to contact us, visit this link

Statistical Analysis of Deaths on Colorado 14ers this Decade (2010-2016)

The Elk Range, statistically one of the most dangerous
ranges in the state

(NOTE: A new version of this article has been published that includes data from the 2017 mountaineering season)

The blossoming popularity of hiking and climbing on Colorado's 14ers has also brought an increase in accidents on these peaks. This article is an attempt to analyze the statistics from these terrible incidents and (hopefully) discover some useful conclusions to prevent such tragedies from occurring again in the future.

While every effort has been made to ensure that the data is complete, it is quite possible that some or several accidents have been overlooked. Every year there are accidents that go unreported and sifting through the barrage of information on the internet is not easy, especially regarding events that may have occurred several years ago. Still, this information can prove a useful tool in keeping all of who venture into the highest places of  this amazing state safe.

STATS AT A GLANCE

Total deaths on Colorado 14ers (2010-2016): 46
Deaths by mountain: Longs Peak (8), Maroon Bells (7), Crestone Needle (5), Crestone Peak (3), Kit Carson (3), Capitol (2), Snowmass Mountain (2), El Diente (2), Harvard (2), Evans (2), Missouri (2), Torreys (2), Quandary (1), Windom (1), Antero (1), Princeton (1), Little Bear (1), Yale (1)
Deaths by gender: M (41), F (5)
Deaths by age range: >20 (2), 20-29 (10), 30-39 (13), 40-49 (6), 50-59 (11), 60 or over (5)
14er deaths by mountain range: Sangre De Cristo (12), Front Range (12),  Elk Range (11), Sawatch Range (7), San Juan Range (3), Tenmile-Mosquito Range (1)
Deaths by Cause: fall (28), falling rocks (5), avalanche (3), heart attack (2), lightning (1), unclear (7)
Deaths by Year: 2010 (10), 2011 (10), 2012 (6), 2013 (5), 2014 (6), 2015 (4), 2016 (5)

(Note: I have combined the Maroon Bells in the above list due to the number of accidents that occurred on the traverse between them making it hard to attribute these deaths to one or the other of these peaks) 

ANALYSIS/CONCLUSIONS

There are a few glaring details from the above statistics that are immediately apparent. For one, half of these deaths (23) occurred on only five mountains (Longs Peak, the Maroon Bells, and the two Crestones). While none of these should really come as a surprise, it is interesting to see just how concentrated this list is. Longs Peak attracts a high number of accidents (almost all of which occurred on the standard Keyhole Route) because it's steep and exposed from every approach. The numbers are further inflated, however, because Longs is by far the busiest of any 14er in the state. On the Crestones, it is noteworthy that half of the eight deaths between the two of them occurred on Crestone Needle's Ellingwood Arete, a technical (5.7) multipitch climb, and only three fatal accidents have occurred on their standard routes. Per capita, the Deadly Bells lead for the dubious prize so far this decade as the most dangerous 14ers by their easiest lines. It doesn't take a Nobel Prize winner to understand why: these stunning peaks maybe be beautiful but their rock is far from it.

Another glaring and thought-provoking statistic is the ratio of males to females that have died on Colorado 14ers. A staggering 89% of the 14er fatalities this decade were males. From an analytical standpoint it is hard to say whether this reflects the numbers of males attempting 14ers over the numbers of females or some other factor (i.e. male tendency towards risk-taking, etc.)

It is also quite clear that the 14ers of the Sangre De Cristo and Elk Ranges are the deadliest. While the Front Range is tied with the Sangres for most fatal accidents total, this stat is skewed by the sheer number of attempts, as the Front Range 14ers (particularly Longs) are some of the state's most popular.

Analyzing the cause of death was somewhat challenging. Some of the information listed multiple causes, i.e. a falling rock strikes a climber causing them to lose their grip and fall. This sort of accident makes it difficult to categorize the accident. With other accidents vague reporting (often by reporters who have little or no mountaineering experience) made determining the actual cause of death very difficult. One thing is clear, however, is that the majority of 14er deaths involved a fatal fall on a mountain. The cause of these falls, however, is vitally important and sometimes difficult to say. My guess is that most occur due to breaking hand or footholds. The other leading causes of accidents are rockfalls/landslides and avalanches.

SOME SURPRISES

Capitol Peak has been site of two fatal accidents
so far this decade

What can also be useful from a data set like this is considering not just what is there but what is not. For example, neither Sunlight Peak, Wilson Peak, nor Pyramid Peak appear on this list. These three mountains are oft-touted as some of the hardest/most dangerous in the state yet nobody has died on any of them so far this decade. Also, there was only one death on Little Bear, another peak that is often regarded as the most dangerous of all the 14ers. In all these instances, however, these low numbers could be the product of much fewer numbers of attempts.

The San Juans. A beautiful range with a large number of rugged 14ers notorious for crumbly rock, yet we only see three deaths from this range. This again, could partially be a product of their distance from the populous cities of the Front Range, and therefore enjoy a proportionally smaller number of attempts. Or maybe the San Juans are not as fierce or chossy as their reputation makes out.

HOW TO AVOID AN ACCIDENT

Statistically speaking, there are a couple of easy things you can do to virtually eliminate your odds of ending up on a list like this in the future:

1) If your main goal in Colorado mountaineering is simply not to die, then do NOT climb the Maroon Bells, Longs Peak, or the Crestones. Again, over half of the fatal accidents this decade have occurred on these five peaks. Of course, many people simply cannot put their backs to the siren call of these dangerous peaks. For those, perhaps extra care should be taken to exercise the greatest possible caution: climb in good weather, wear a helmet, start early, avoid crowds, and tread lightly!

2) Be a woman. Apparently simply being a woman slices your chances of dying on a 14er considerably. However, I have not been able to find reliable stats on the ratio of female to male climbers attempting 14ers, or even better, starting out on individual peaks, so it is hard to know a woman's odds of dying are actually slimmer or if the difference is merely proportional.

3) Avoid falling. Of course this is always the goal, but most of the fatal accidents on 14ers involved the victim falling. From my experience reading about these accidents, breaking/crumbling hand or footholds is almost always the cause of falling related accidents. Maintain three points of contact on the difficult sections of steep mountains at all times, carefully test hold before weighting them, and rope up if it is safe and practical (which, unfortunately, is often not possible on the loose rock of some of Colorado's most dangerous mountains).

FINAL THOUGHTS

Though many of us like to say we "live" for the mountains, probably none of us wants to die there before our time. We accept a certain degree of risk knowing risk is the only path to reward. These 46 deaths are all tragic. The widespread consequences of losing even one life can ripple out and touch so many. But compared to the tens (perhaps hundreds) of thousands of people that attempted Colorado's 14ers this decade, 45 deaths is a very small percentage. We all venture to these high places knowing what risks we take and the potential consequences of our actions. We are willing to accept these calculated risks because it is only in the mountains that we truly feel alive.

RELATED POSTS

-2016 mountaineering deaths in Colorado
-Climber dies on Thunder Pyramid
-Climber dies on Maroon Peak
-Climber Dies on Capitol Peak

 Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Follow us on Twitter!
Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

The Five Hardest Cruxes of Colorado's 14ers (with videos)

A countdown of the five most stomach-clenching cruxes of Colorado’s 53 tallest peaks.

Climbing 14ers is the most popular mountaineering pursuit in Colorado’s high country. While more than 2/3rds of these noble peaks can be “climbed” by mere endurance and a pair of hiking boots, a handful of these popular mountains require a bit more technical skill and engagement with risk to reach the top. This list counts down the five most difficult sections (not most dangerous, that might yield a different list altogether) of all the fourteeners by their standard routes.

#5- The Summit Cap (Mt. Wilson)

Some nice exposure and steep scrambling awaits aspiring mountaineers who have reached the top of this San Juan monarch. Luckily, this vertigo-inducing crux is relatively short-lived. There is some loose rock here, however, and some mistimed flailing could prove disastrous. The following video  is a bit shaky but shows a detailed look at those final relatively intense minutes of climbing.

#4- Jumping the Gap (Sunlight Peak)

Much is said about the final move on famous San Juan 14er, Sunlight Peak. There are many that consider it the crux of all Colorado's highest peaks. In fact, Gerry Roach even makes that claim in his book Colorado's Fourteeners. This difficult move is no doubt exposed, and will get all but the most exposure-hardened of mountaineer's attention. But it is short and if you can put aside the dizzying swirl of air all around you, is not as difficult as fear might make it seem.

#3- The Knife Edge (Capitol Peak)

Perhaps the most infamous crux on any Colorado 14er is the Knife Edge of Colorado's Capitol Peak. While some may argue that this is not even the most difficult section of this peak, there is no doubt that the Knife Edge is the mental crux of this stout and infamous mountain. However, wary aspiring ascentionists can take heart with the knowledge that the Knife boasts some of Capitol's most solid rock and that, barring bad weather, as long as you keep your cool and move with deliberation, there is no reason this crux should prove anything other than exhilarating.

#2- The Chimney (North Maroon Peak)

There is no doubt that the Deadly Bells have earned that forboding moniker. As a resident of the Roaring Fork Valley, I can attest to the frequency at which Search and Rescue gets summoned to these beautiful mountains. Unfortunately, these rescue missions all-too-often become recoveries. The hardest section of these two peaks by their standard routes is the "chimney" of North Maroon that is a mildly sustained section of vertical climbing that many consider to be that hardest technical crux of any standard route on any fourteener.

#1- The Hourglass (Little Bear)

For my money the Hourglass on Little Bear Peak in the Sangre De Cristo Range deserves the title for the crux of all 14er cruxes. It is long, sustained, steep and dangerous. It is class 4 if you pick the best possible line, maybe even a little harder if you don't. Add in the immense danger of falling rock and this section is for real. Tread carefully and lightly here as a number of terrible accidents have occurred at this spot.

NOT HARD ENOUGH?

Think these cruxes were too easy? For a real hard man the following 14er cruxes on non-standard routes will put those five to shame.

Pitch 1 of Kit Carson's Prow (5.8R)

The start of this exhilarating and exposed alpine climb is worthy for the more  technically adept Colorado mountaineers out there.

climbers on Longs Peaks Diamond

Pitch 6 of the Casual Route (5.10a)

Sure, if I wanted to go crazy, there are much more difficult lines on the Diamond. After all, Tommy Caldwell established the wall's first 5.14 in 2014. But the Casual Route is the "standard" way to climb the Diamond and thus its crux gets the nod here.

Summit tower of Sunlight Spire (5.10c)

It's a good thing for those of us weenie everyday-Joe mountaineers that 14,000' Sunlight Spire does not have enough prominence to be considered a ranked peak because it's summit cap is a dozy. First freed in 1988 by Jeff Achey and graded 5.10c, this angling splitter crack is a magnificent achievement for any tough-guy (or gal) mountaineer. Really want something to hold over the heads of all those mere mortal 14er "finishers"? Tell them you free-climbed the Sunlight Spire and challenge them to match the deed.

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Follow us on Twitter!
Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

Summary and Analysis of 2016 Mountaineering Deaths in Colorado

Why do we take such risks to climb in Colorado's mountains? It is a question non-climbing friends inevitably ask me every time news circulates of another accident or death in the Colorado mountains. Why would I put my life in jeopardy just for the thrill of a summit? They say it is selfish to the ones I love back home to risk so much just for my own gratification. Some even say it is stupid. The answer is not always easy.

Screenshot from a video showing a rescue on North Maroon in 2013

Life is full of risk. And without risk there is no reward. Climbing enhances my life, it is one of the things that helps remind me of why life is worth living in the first place. I don't climb with a death wish, and I always have full confidence I will return to the trailhead alive. I strive to make the best decisions and minimize the dangers of any particular climb. And now, as I have grown a bit older and have more responsibility I have found myself slightly less willing to accept those risks.

Still, however, the world isn't safe. Climbing and mountaineering is full of hazards, both objective and subjective. This can go wrong in an instant. A rock can break, the hills can slide, and, yes, I can make a terribly bad decision. But the same is true while driving on the highway: an errant driver can steer my direction, a patch of unseen ice can appear seemingly from nowhere, or I can take my eyes off the road for a fateful second to fiddle with the radio. Does that mean I should never drive? Does that mean I should never climb?

With record numbers of people venturing into Colorado's mountains, the number who don't make it back is statistically quite small. It shows that most people are careful and smart about their time in the mountains. And even those that aren't seem remarkably lucky. For those that don't come back, there are always lessons to be learned for the rest of us, and those lessons can, hopefully, prevent a future tragedy from taking place.

The following is a list of people who died climbing Colorado's mountains in 2016. Though I did my best to research this grim topic, the list may not be complete. I apologize to the memories of anyone I may have missed. And if anyone knows of other incidents, I would add them in the hopes that we can learn what lessons we can for next season. As always you may email me with concerns at Coloradomountaineering2010@gmail.com I will do my best to reply.

SUMMARY OF MOUNTAINEERING DEATHS IN COLORADO DURING 2016

January 19- Ron Webber, a 58-year-old man from Florida died while on a "mountaineering trek" near Chasm Lake at the base of Longs Peak after a fall of nearly 200 feet. It is unclear if Webber was attempting to climb the mountain or merely out for a hike. Webber had visited Longs Peak before, though never in the winter. Little is known about the specifics of this tragedy as he was climbing alone and did not leave any information behind.

The Maroon Bells as seen from Pyramid Peak. The
"Deadly Bells" have been the sight of many deaths and
rescues over the years, including two more in 2016

July 10- Stephen Hunt, a 55-year-old man from Parker, Colorado, died after falling on Crestone Needle. Hunt was a highly experienced mountaineer who had climbed all of Colorado's 14ers (some several times) and was actively working on the "Centennial" list, Colorado's 100 highest peaks. Crestone Needle is considered by many to be one of Colorado's most difficult 14ers.

August 3- James Beckerich, a 70-year old man from Pennsylvania, died from a fall while descending from a failed attempt to climb 13,554-foot Fluted Peak in the Sangre De Cristo Mountains. Beckerich was an experienced mountaineer who had been a part of failed Everest and Aconcagua expeditions and was training for a climb in Washington State. He had previously summitted many prestigious mountains.

August 24- Eric Poehlman, a 46 year-old man from Vermont, died near the summit of Mt. Harvard of a heart attack. This is not an accident per se but an example of how the added pressures of altitude and exertion can exacerbate pre-existing health conditions that you may or may not know are present. He was an experienced 14er climber who had summitted 47 of Colorado's highest mountains.

September 7- Steve Sprowles, a 68-year-old man from Conifer, Colorado, died after a fall on North Maroon Peak. The Maroon Bells have earned their nickname "The Deadly Bells" and it seems at least one death occurs there every year. The rock is very loose and steep and their beauty makes them a popular destination for aspiring summitters, some of whom misjudge the objective dangers posed by these dramatic peaks.

September 20- Dave Cook, a 49-year-old man from New Mexico disappeared while attempting to complete the notoriously dangerous Maroon Peak-North Maroon Peak traverse. It is possible he was also trying to add Pyramid Peak as well. This disturbing incident is particularly troublesome because Cook has never been located. It is difficult to know exactly what happened to him. The Bells Traverse is a very difficult and treacherous route and Pyramid Peak is almost as dangerous. Attempting these mountains alone adds to the risk of such an endeavor. Dave's family has created a facebook page for anyone that might possibly have knowledge of his whereabouts.

October 1- Scott Corliss, a 61-year-old physician from Greeley, Colorado, died after a fall on the Narrows section of the popular Keyhole Route of Longs Peak. The conditions on this day were reported as icy. This section of the highly popular route is quite exposed and has been the site of at least five deaths over the years according to a post on Alan Arnette's website covering this incident.

CONCLUSIONS:

Walking the infamous Knife Edge on Capitol Peak, a peak
that has caused a number of fatalities over the years

It is hard to know what to conclude from the seven deaths reported above. One thing that jumps out at me immediately is that all of the deaths were men over the age of 46 years old. But what do we do with this? Is it just a reflection of the demographic that climbs mountains in Colorado? Does it illuminate the risk-taking nature of men as opposed to women? Or is it just a statistical anomaly?

It is also worth noting that three of the seven victims were from Colorado and the other four were from out of state and that six of the seven occurred on or near 14ers. These stats illuminate the growing popularity of "ticking off" Colorado's highest peaks not just with locals but people from out of state as well. Several of the climbers listed above were also highly experienced, which shows how it is not just the foolish or the inexperienced that get into trouble in the mountains.

In the end, we each choose to venture into the mountains full-knowing the risks that we are taking. The high places of the world are not meant for human habitation. Gravity pulls strongly from the steep, broken slopes of these majestic mountains. We learn what we can from accidents of the past and continue to venture forth in the aim of self-enhancement. It is up to us to determine if that hope is worth the level of risk we assume.

Stay safe out there!

RELATED STORIES
-Statistical Analysis of 14er Deaths in Colorado This Decade

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Follow us on Twitter!
Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

PEAK OF THE WEEK: Little Bear (14,037')

INTRO

Without question Little Bear is one of the most respected and feared peak in all of Colorado 14er lore. Many or my climbing friends regarded this peak as a "(sigh) going to get it over with" climb. And not because (like Culebra or Antero) it is of unimpressive aesthetic value but out of fear and respect for its unique objective hazards.

Most of this reputation comes from the crux section, the Hourglass, which many regard as the most difficult section of any of Colorado's 14ers. According to Gerry Roach there is an easier way to climb Little Bear from the east, but this route is from private property and thus not accessible to the public. Other alternative routes that try to circumnavigate the dreaded Hourglass find themselves on terrain that is just as difficult and probably more dangerous. Though this easier (class 3) route up this peak was once used and may one day be open again in the future, for now all climbers must deal with the Hourglass or worse.

DIRECTIONS
As with Blanca Peak, an ascent of Little Bear starts at the Lake Como trailhead. Turn onto Hwy 150 about 26 miles east of Alamosa heading towards the Great Sand Dunes National Monument. Just over 3 miles later, follow a sign towards Lake Como. Go as far as your vehicle will allow you, as much as 7 miles all the way to Lake Como (for a burly off-roader).

photo courtesy: Alethe88 at English Wikipedia

ROUTES
West Ridge (class 4)
The standard route on Little Bear and the easiest since the closing of the peak's east side. The first part of the climb negotiates a steep, blocky gully on class 2 terrain that leads to a ridge crest. Traverse below the ridge to the right at around 13,000' until you reach the Hourglass, the route's crux. The Hourglass is stomach-puckering class 4 with lots of potential for broken rock and gnarly falls. Often there is a tattered rope or two dangling in the center of gully. Once past the hard climbing, it eases off to class 3 but any loose rock you kick free will tumble into the Hourglass into people below you. Be so careful through here!

Southwest Ridge (class 4)
A route with some access issues. The easiest trailhead (Tobin Creek) is not a legal access point, but this route can still be reached from Lake Como. This does, however, make for a long day. On the ridge expect long exposure, difficult climbing and objective hazards equal to or greater than the West Ridge line. En route you will  traverse over South Little Bear, a sub-peak.

Northwest Face (class 4)
Another alternative to the Hourglass, but again but as dangerous or more dangerous than the West Ridge. With the Northwest Face there is definitely more class 4 terrain, though perhaps the unique rockfall hazards of the Hourglass route can be avoided. Still, not likely to find a safer journey here.

Blanca-Little Bear Traverse (class 4/low class 5)
A long, classic and insanely exposed traverse that allows you to complete Blanca and Little Bear in one day. Gerry Roach calls this one of the four "classic 14er traverses" and warns that it may be the most difficult. There is no doubt that this ridge is long and exposed and there is no escape until the end. With careful route-finding you may be able to keep it at class 4.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
This is a stout and dangerous peak! There have been several deadly accidents on Little Bear, particularly at the Hourglass. This is not a recommended climb for a first 14er or for anyone who is not of excellent physical conditioning and possessing superb balance/decision making skills.

LINKS
Summitpost page on Little Bear

Mountain Project page on Little Bear

14ers.com on Little Bear

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Follow us on Twitter!
Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

Five Most Iconic Colorado Mountains

What are the defining peaks of Colorado? With 637 "ranked" peaks higher than 13,000', it is hard to pick just five. What criteria could be used to quantify such a selection? Sheer beauty? Ruggedness? Fame? By any of these definitions on their own you might get a different set of peaks. Certainly Elbert could be cast as one of Colorado's most famous mountains, but without question it is not as photogenic as some of these rugged peaks. Then there are peaks such as Lizard Head, as rough and rugged as they get but so obscure that none but the most interested of fanatics have ever heard of it. And of course, every individual person brings their own biases, their own aesthetic preferences.

So for our selections here in this article, we have attempt to combine these characteristics: beauty, fame, ruggedness, to create a list of five of Colorado's most iconic and defining peaks. No matter if you agree of disagree, it is hard to deny that these are five mountains that Colorado can be proud of.

The classic Maroon Bells image from
Maroon Lake

1. The Maroon Bells (14,156'; rank #24)
In terms of sheer beauty the Maroon Bells are hard to beat. The classic image of the twin peaks framed in the U-shaped valley from Maroon Lake, has become one of the most iconic and defining images from the Colorado high country. Add in that these peaks both top that coveted 14,000' benchmark, and that they have a fearsome reputation as being two of the more formidable and dangerous summits to reach in the state and it seems clear that these mountains deserve their spot here on this list. (Maroon Bells profile page)

2. Crestone Peak (14,294'; rank #7)

Crestone Peak with a dusting of snow

Crestone Peak in the rugged Sangre De Cristo Range is one of Colorado's most beautiful mountains. Rugged, burly, prominent, it towers above its lesser adversaries like a monarch. There can be no doubt that Crestone is one of Colorado's most aesthetic and formidable mountains. It is a peak that Coloradoans can hold against nearly any other peak anywhere in the lower 48. Add in the unique prominence of the Sangres and you get a mountain that at times resembles a misplaced member of a more formiddable range like the Alps or Tetons right here in our backyards. (Crestone Peak's profile page)

3. Mount of the Holy Cross (14,005'; rank #51)

W.H. Jackson's famous 1873 Holy Cross
image

It is not just the namesake feature on Holy Cross's East Face that makes it beauiful and famous. This gem of the Sawatch Range is rugged and impressive from all of its aspects. Coupled with an amazing surrounding wilderness and you can see why it makes this list. The fame of the mountain, which originated with William Henry Jackson's 1873 photograph and Henry Wadsworth Longfellow's subsequent poem, has piqued the imaginations of hikers, religious zealots and mountaineers for well over a century. This is a famous and amazing mountain that deserves to be named among the greats. (read Angels and Demons: The Two Faces of Holy Cross) 

4. Capitol Peak (14,130'; rank #29)

Capitol Peak from the north

Capitol Peak enjoys an oft-touted reputation as Colorado's most fearsome mountain. While many debate on whether this reputation is overstated, there can be no doubt that the mountain has caputred the imaginations of modern mountaineers more than almost any other of Colorado's great peaks. But not only is Capitol a rugged and challenging mountain, it is also stunningly beautiful with its sharp ridges and impressive faces. No matter which direction you approach this mountain from it is a formidable spire. Without question Capitol is one of Colorado's most aesthetic and treacherous mountains. (Capitol Peak's profile page)

5. Longs Peak (14,255'; rank #15)

Longs Peaks North Face with the Diamond
also visible.

Highly visible, intensely rugged, shockingly popular, and classically famous, this list would not have been complete without Longs Peak. As the crown jewel of Rocky Mountain National Park, this mountain has attracted a great deal of attention for many years. It is also one of Colorado's most complicated massifs. Few peaks offer the sheer volume and diversity of routes. The standard route, the Keyhole, is most likely the most popular route on any mountain in the state. Longs Peak also boasts by far the largest number of viable technical mountaineering routes around. From the relatively mild North Face (5.4) to the mixed snow and rock of the dramatic Kiener's Route (5.4, steep snow) to the many world-class alpine multipitch climbs on the 1,000-foot Diamond, this mountain is a rock climber's paradise and one of Colorado's most impressive mountains. (Longs Peak profile page)

Honorable Mentions

Mt. Sneffels. (Debivort at English Wikipedia [CC BY-SA 3.0
(http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0) )

Mount Princeton (14,197'; rank #18)
The massive prominence of Mt. Princeton, especially as viewed from the east in the Buena Vista area, make this mountain one of Colorado's most impressive peaks. It towers with more than 6,000' of prominence over the Arkansas River Valley just a few miles away. In the winter, this stunning peak looks even more dramatic and the effect can be quite breathtaking. (Mt. Princeton tip report)

Mount Sneffels (14,150'; rank #27)
This San Juan gem is one of the most beautiful and rugged peaks in the state. Viewed from the north it boasts a staggering 8,000' of prominence over the plains near Montrose making its rugged profile one of the most sheer and impressive in the Rockies. (Mt. Sneffels profile page)

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Follow us on Twitter!
Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link