Showing posts with label Tenmile-Mosquito Range. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tenmile-Mosquito Range. Show all posts

Friday, January 26, 2018

UPDATED: Stats and Analysis of 14er Deaths This Decade (2010-2017)

The blossoming popularity of hiking and climbing on Colorado's 14ers has also brought an increase in accidents on these peaks. This article is an attempt to analyze the statistics from these terrible incidents and (hopefully) discover some useful conclusions to prevent such tragedies from occurring again in the future.

The Elk Range, statistically one of the most dangerous
ranges in the state
While every effort has been made to ensure that the data is complete, it is quite possible that some or several accidents have been overlooked. Every year there are accidents that go unreported and sifting through the barrage of information on the internet is not easy, especially regarding events that may have occurred several years ago. Still, this information can prove a useful tool in keeping all of who venture into the highest places of  this amazing state safe.

UPDATED
This article was originally published 1/3/17 but has been updated to include data from the tragic 2017 season.

STATS AT A GLANCE

Total deaths on Colorado 14ers (2010-2017): 57
Deaths by mountain: Longs Peak (9), Maroon Bells (9), Capitol (7), Crestone Needle (5), Crestone Peak (3), Kit Carson (3),  Snowmass Mountain (2), El Diente (2), Harvard (2), Evans (2), Missouri (2), Torreys (2), Princeton (2), Quandary (1), Windom (1), Antero (1),  Little Bear (1), Yale (1), Blanca (1), Challenger Point (1)
Deaths by gender: M (50), F (7)
Deaths by age range: >20 (2), 20-29 (16), 30-39 (16), 40-49 (6), 50-59 (13), 60 or over (5)
14er deaths by mountain range: Elk Range (18), Sangre De Cristo (14), Front Range (13),   Sawatch Range (8), San Juan Range (3), Tenmile-Mosquito Range (1)
Deaths by Cause: fall (38), falling rocks (5), avalanche (3), heart attack (2), lightning (1), unclear (8)
Deaths by Year: 2010 (10), 2011 (10), 2012 (6), 2013 (5), 2014 (6), 2015 (4), 2016 (5), 2017 (11)


(Note: I have combined the Maroon Bells in the above list due to the number of accidents that occurred on the traverse between them making it hard to attribute these deaths to one or the other of these peaks) 


ANALYSIS/CONCLUSIONS

There are a few glaring details from the above statistics that are immediately apparent. For one, more than half of these deaths (33) occurred on only six mountains (Longs Peak, the Maroon Bells, Capitol Peak, and the Crestones). While none of these should really come as a surprise, it is interesting to see just how concentrated this list is. Longs Peak attracts a high number of accidents (almost all of which occurred on the standard Keyhole Route) because it's steep and exposed from every approach. On the Crestones, it is noteworthy that half of the eight deaths between the two of them occurred on Crestone Needle's Ellingwood Arete, a technical (5.7) multipitch climb, and only three fatal accidents have occurred on their standard routes. Per capita, the Deadly Bells lead for the dubious prize so far this decade as the most dangerous 14ers by their easiest lines. It doesn't take a Nobel Prize winner to understand why: these stunning peaks maybe be beautiful but their rock is far from it.

In 2017 Capitol Peak gained notoriety when five people died on its slopes. Three of these five victims died as a result of selecting the incorrect descent route. The so-dubbed "Death Gully" has lured people in the past due to its innocuous appearance from above and people's fear of crossing the Knife Edge on the return journey. It is imperative for aspiring climbers of Capitol Peak to understand THERE IS NO EASIER WAY to climb this mountain than the standard route. If there was an easier route, that would be the standard route! 

Another glaring and thought-provoking statistic is the ratio of males to females that have died on Colorado 14ers. A staggering 88% of the 14er fatalities this decade were males. From an analytical standpoint it is hard to say whether this reflects the numbers of males attempting 14ers over the numbers of females or some other factor (i.e. male tendency towards risk-taking, etc.)

It is also quite clear that the 14ers of the Sangre De Cristo and Elk Ranges are the deadliest. While the Front Range is tied with the Sangres for most fatal accidents total, this stat is skewed by the sheer number of attempts, as the Front Range 14ers (particularly Longs) are some of the state's most popular.

Analyzing the cause of death was somewhat challenging. Some of the information listed multiple causes, i.e. a falling rock strikes a climber causing them to lose their grip and fall. This sort of accident makes it difficult to categorize the accident. With other accidents vague reporting (often by reporters who have little or no mountaineering experience) made determining the actual cause of death very difficult. One thing is clear, however, is that the majority of 14er deaths involved a fatal fall on a mountain. The cause of these falls, however, is vitally important and sometimes difficult to say. My guess is that most occur due to breaking hand or footholds. The other leading causes of accidents are rockfalls/landslides and avalanches.

SOME SURPRISES

Capitol Peak a 14er in Colorado's deadly Elk Range
Capitol Peak has been site of seven fatal accidents
so far this decade, including five in 2017 alone
What can also be useful from a data set like this is considering not just what is there but what is not. For example, neither Sunlight Peak, Wilson Peak, nor Pyramid Peak appear on this list. These three mountains are oft-touted as some of the hardest/most dangerous in the state yet nobody has died on any of them so far this decade. Also, there was only one death on Little Bear, another peak that is often regarded as the most dangerous of all the 14ers. In all these instances, however, these low numbers could be the product of much fewer numbers of attempts.

The San Juans. A beautiful range with a large number of rugged 14ers notorious for crumbly rock, yet we only see three deaths from this range. This again, could partially be a product of their distance from the populous cities of the Front Range, and therefore enjoy a proportionally smaller number of attempts. Or maybe the San Juans are not as fierce or chossy as their reputation makes out.

HOW TO AVOID AN ACCIDENT

Statistically speaking, there are a couple of easy things you can do to virtually eliminate your odds of ending up on a list like this in the future:

1) If your main goal in Colorado mountaineering is simply not to die, then do NOT climb the Maroon Bells, Capitol Peak, Longs Peak, or the Crestones. Again, over half of the fatal accidents this decade have occurred on these six peaks. Of course, many people simply cannot put their backs to the siren call of these dangerous peaks. For those, perhaps extra care should be taken to exercise the greatest possible caution: climb in good weather, wear a helmet, start early, avoid crowds, and tread lightly!

2) Be a woman. Apparently simply being a woman slices your chances of dying on a 14er considerably. However, I have not been able to find reliable stats on the ratio of female to male climbers attempting 14ers, or even better, starting out on individual peaks, so it is hard to know a woman's odds of dying are actually slimmer or if the difference is merely proportional.

3) Avoid falling. Of course this is always the goal, but most of the fatal accidents on 14ers involved the victim falling. From my experience reading about these accidents, breaking/crumbling hand or footholds is almost always the cause of falling related accidents. Maintain three points of contact on the difficult sections of steep mountains at all times, carefully test hold before weighting them, and rope up if it is safe and practical (which, unfortunately, is often not possible on the loose rock of some of Colorado's most dangerous mountains).

FINAL THOUGHTS

Though many of us like to say we "live" for the mountains, probably none of us wants to die there before our time. We accept a certain degree of risk knowing risk is the only path to reward. These 46 deaths are all tragic. The widespread consequences of losing even one life can ripple out and touch so many. But compared to the tens (perhaps hundreds) of thousands of people that attempted Colorado's 14ers this decade, 45 deaths is a very small percentage. We all venture to these high places knowing what risks we take and the potential consequences of our actions. We are willing to accept these calculated risks because it is only in the mountains that we truly feel alive.

RELATED POSTS


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Tuesday, February 14, 2017

Top 8 Busiest Colorado Peaks

What are the busiest 14ers in Colorado?
Morning light on Mt. Elbert
The mountains of Colorado have become crowded. Hell, Colorado as a state has become crowded. Everyone who's tried to climb a mountain here (especially the really popular ones like Longs or Elbert) has seen just how busy they can be. Trains of humanoids zig-zagging up the mountainsides by the hundreds have become a common sight. On a busy weekend, these peaks more resemble an amusement park than a wilderness adventure. 

But just which peaks are the busiest of all? While there are no stats that tell us 100% accurately how many people attempt these peaks in a given year, we have used data from several popular websites to make our best guess.

Methodology
To create this list, we used the ticklist or summit log data from three popular mountaineering websites: listsofjohn.com, 14ers.com and Summitpost.org to create a score for each mountain based on the number of people reporting ascents of each of Colorado's 14ers. We then averaged the scores together (weighing all three websites equally) to come up with an aggregate rating which we hope indicates which peaks are the busiest.

Possibilities for Error
There are several ways in which error could be introduced with this method. For example, all three of these websites are more likely to attract mountaineering enthusiasts (people so heavily engaged in the sport they are willing to not only register for such a site but actually log their ascents), thus eliminating "casual" climbers who might be drawn to certain types of mountains, like Mount Elbert (since it is the highest point in Colorado) and Longs Peak (since it is close to Denver and located in Rocky Mountain National Park). This could potentially skew the data.

Another possible error could lie in the relative "power" of each peak. In other words, people might be more likely to report and ascent of Mount Elbert, since it is the state high point, than they are of Quandary Peak, which does not carry the same clout, resulting in under-reporting of mountains that are viewed as less interesting. Repeat ascents are also not likely to be accurately accounted for since, while all three of these websites (I believe) allow you to report repeats, most likely people are far less willing to do so.

Anyway, without further ado, here is our list of the eight busiest peaks in the state of Colorado.

Quandary Peak in the snow
Near the summit of Quandary in the snow
It is not really a surprise that Grays Peak tops this list. With its convenient I-70 access, it relative proximity to the large Front Range cities, and its "easy" standard route, Grays Peak is about as user friendly of a 14er as there is.

Since Elbert is the highest peak in the state, and its standard route requires little more than a sturdy pair of legs to climb, it makes sense that it would land near the top. However, I suspect the data is skewed in Elbert's favor due to its stature and the fact that people would be more likely to report ascents of Elbert as compared to other, less famous peaks.

These two Front Range peaks came out tied in overall aggregate score. Both peaks are conveniently accessible to the Front Range big cities, and both have somewhat abbreviated routes on well-beaten trails to their summits. It is no wonder that they both two of Colorado's busiest mountains.

As the companion summit of Grays Peak, the inclusion of Torreys is no surprise. Since many climb these two peaks together, the difference between them is likely a result of the standard route on Grays Peak being just that much easier than Torreys, leading to a number of people making the summit of Grays but electing to turn around and not complete the route to the top of its neighbor.

As the first peak reached in the standard DeCaliBron (Democrat/Cameron/Lincoln/Bross) loop, Mt. Democrat is an obvious addition to this list. As with Grays, that it places higher than Lincoln, Cameron or Bross is indicative of the fact that it is usually the first of the 4-mountain loop to be climbed and not everyone is successful in completing the tour.

Since we did not count Cameron (it is not a "ranked" peak) Mount Lincoln is the second peak of the Decalibron and it makes sense that it would score just a hair lower than Democrat on the aggregate rank. 

8. Longs Peak
The north face of Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park
The North Face of Longs Peak from the Boulderfield
I was surprised not to see Longs higher on this list. The immense popularity of the Keyhole Route always seemed a cut above the others. However, it is a more difficult mountain, and more dangerous than any of the others on the list. In addition, one has to wonder how many of the people who climb this mountain fall into the aforementioned "casual" hiker group and were drawn to this peak due to its position within Rocky Mountain National Park but were not likely to register for one of the three websites used for our raw data.

Honorable Mentions
The following peaks nearly made the list: Evans, Pikes, Sherman, Bross and Massive.

So which peak was the least popular? While a "Top 8 Least Popular 14ers" may make an interesting topic for another post, it appears that (we didn't run the bottom peaks through the same number crunch) the least busy 14er in Colorado is the only one you have to pay an exorbitant fee to climb: Culebra.  

Popular or not, these mountains represent some of the most beautiful high peaks in the state and are all worthy to climb despite the crowds. Hike them, enjoy them, take care of them. Just don't go up there expecting privacy....

RELATED POSTS
-The Ranked 14ers
-10 Mountains You Probably Haven't Climbed But Should
-14ers the Hard Way
-10 Class 3 Colorado Mountaineering Classics
-10 Class 5 Colorado Mountaineering Classics

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Sunday, December 4, 2016

2017 Colorado Mountaineering Calendar Now Available!

The 2017 Colorado Mountaineering calendar is now available from the Lulu bookstore. Makes a great gift or stocking stuffer for your mountaineering, climbing or scenery-gazing loved one. Includes images of Longs Peak, Mount of the Holy Cross, Conundrum Peak, the Grenadier Range, the Gore Range, the Flat Tops and more. Retailed at the reasonable rate of $14.99. Order now and receive it before Christmas! You can preview or purchase this item here at the Lulu.com book store or click on the following icon:

Support independent publishing: Buy this calendar on Lulu.

**UPDATE** As the new year rapidly approaches, the 2017 Colorado Mountaineering calendar has now been marked down 20%!! Act now to still receive yours before 2017 begins!**

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Saturday, November 30, 2013

List: The Centennial Peaks (100 Highest)

The 100 tallest "official" peaks in Colorado, sometimes called the "Centennial List". The generally accepted standard for official status by mountaineers in Colorado is that a mountain should have at least 300 feet of topographical prominence (rise from the highest connecting saddle with a higher peak).

Peak NameElevationRankRangeDifficulty easiest route (YDS)
Mount Elbert14,433'1Sawatchclass 1
Mount Massive14,421'2 Sawatch class 2
Mount Harvard14,420'3Sawatchclass 2
Blanca Peak14,345'4Sangre De Cristoclass 2
La Plata Peak14,336'5Sawatchclass 2
Uncompahgre Peak14,309'6San Juanclass 2
Crestone Peak14,294'7Sangre De Cristoclass 3
Mount Lincoln14,286'8Tenmile Rangeclass 2
Grays Peak14,270'9Front Rangeclass 1
Mount Antero14,269'10Sawatchclass 2
Torreys Peak14,267'11Front Rangeclass 2
Castle Peak14,265'12Elk Rangeclass 2+
Quandary Peak14,265'13Tenmile Rangeclass 1
Mount Evans14,264'14Front Rangeclass 1
Longs Peak 14,255'15Front Rangeclass 3
Mount Wilson14,246'16Front Rangeclass 4
Mount Shavano14,229'17Sawatchclass 2
Mount Princeton14,197'18Sawatchclass 2
Mount Belford14,19719Sawatchclass 1
Crestone Needle14,19720Sangre De Cristoclass 3
Mount Yale14,196'21Sawatchclass 2
Mount Bross14,172'22Mosquitoclass 2
Kit Carson Peak14,165'23Sangre De Cristoclass 3
Maroon Peak14,156'24Elk Rangeclass 3
Tabeguache Peak14,155'25Sawatchclass 2
Mount Oxford14,153'26Sawatchclass 2
Mount Sneffels14,150'27San Juanclass 2
Mount Democrat14,148'28Mosquitoclass 2
Capitol Peak14,130'29Elkclass 4
Pikes Peak 14,11030Front Rangeclass 1
Snowmass Mountain14,092'31Elkclass 3
Windom Peak14,087'32San Juanclass 2+
Mount Eolus14,084'33San Juanclass 3
Challenger Point14,081'34Sangre De Cristoclass 2+
Mount Columbia14,073'35Sawatchclass 2
Missouri Mountain14,067'36Sawatchclass 2+
Humboldt Peak14,064'37Sangre De Cristoclass 2
Mount Bierstadt14,060'38Front Rangeclass 2
Sunlight Peak14,059'39San Juanclass 4
Handies Peak 14,048' 40 San Juanclass 1
Culebra Peak14,047'41Sangre De Cristo class 2
Mount Lindsey14,042'42Sangre De Cristoclass 2+
Ellingwood Point14,042'43 Sangre De Cristoclass 2
Little Bear14,037'44Sangre De Cristoclass 4
Mount Sherman14,036'45Tenmile Range class 2
Redcloud Peak14,034' 46San Juanclass 2
Pyramid Peak14,018'47Elk Rangeclass 4
Wilson Peak14,017'48San Juanclass 3
Wetterhorn14,015'49San Juanclass 3
San Luis Peak14,014'50San Juanclass 1
Mount of the Holy Cross14,005'51Elk Rangeclass 2
Huron Peak14,003'52Sawatchclass 1
Sunshine Peak14,001'53San Juan class 2
Grizzly Peak13,988'54Sawatch class 2
Stewart Peak13,983'55San Juan class 1
Columbia Point13,980'56Sangre De Cristo class 2+
Pigeon Peak13,972'57San Juan class 4
Mount Ouray13,971'58Sawatch class 2
Fletcher Mountain13,95159Tenmile Range class 2
Ice Mountain13,95160Sawatchclass 3
Pacific Peak13,950'61Tenmile Range class 2
Cathedral Peak13,94362Elk Range class 3
French Mountain13,940' 63Sawatchclass 2
Mount Hope13,933'64Sawatch class 2
"Thunder Pyramid"13,932'65Elk Rangeclass 3
Mount Adams13,93166Sangre De Cristo class 2+
Gladstone Peak13,913'67San Juan class 3
Mount Meeker13,911'68Front Range class 3
Casco Peak13,908'69Sawatch class 2
Red Mountain13,90870Sangre De Cristoclass 2
Emerald Peak13,904'71Sawatchclass 2
Horseshoe Mountain13,898'72Tenmile Rangeclass 1
"Phoenix Peak"13,895'73San Juan class 1
Vermilion Peak13,894'74San Juanclass 2
Cronin Peak13,870'75Sawatch class 2
Mount Buckskin13,865'76Tenmmile Range class 2
Vestal Peak13,864'77San Juan class 2+
Jones Mountain13,860'78San Juan class 2
North Apostle13,860'79Sawatch class 2
Clinton Peak13,857'80Tenmile Range class 2
Dyer Mountain13,855'81Tenmile Rangeclass 2
Crystal Peak13,85282Tenmile Rangeclass 2
Mount Edwards13,850' 83 Front Range class 1
California Peak13,849'84Sangre De Cristoclass 1
Mount Oklahoma 13,845'85Sawatch class 2
"Atlantic Peak"13,841'86Tenmile Rangeclass 2
Hagerman Peak13,84187Elk Range class 2+
Half Peak13,84188San Juan class 2
Turret Peak13,835'89San Juan class 2+
Point 13,83213,832'90San Juan class 2
Holy Cross Ridge13,831' 91 San Juan class 2
Jupiter Mountain13,830'92 San Juan class 2+
"Huerfano Peak"13,828'93 Sangre De Cristo class 2
Jagged Mountain 13,824'94 San Juan class 5.2
”Lackawanna Peak"13,823'95Sawatch class 2
Mount Silverheels13,822'96Tenmile Range class 1
Rio Grande Pyramid13,821' 97San Juan class 2
Teakettle Mountain13,819'98San Juan class 5.3
Point 13,81113,811'99San Juan class 1
Dallas Peak13,809'100San Juan class 5.3

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Monday, November 25, 2013

Ten Mountains You Probably Haven't Climbed but Should

Mount Silverheels, Tenmile-Mosquito Range, Colorado
Tired of the crowds on overrun 14ers? Looking for less-known, less-traveled Colorado peaks just as, if not more, fun to climb than any of the 53 highest? This is a list of Colorado mountains that don't see nearly the number of signatures on their summit logs. All are worthy of earning a spot on your to-climb list.

"McReynolds Peak" (12,450 feet; class 5.9) (rank: #1034)
McReynolds Peak is a ranked 12er and, according to several seasoned Colorado mountaineers, one of the hardest peaks in the state above 12,000 feet. The good news is that all of the difficulties are crowded in one 15-foot boulder problem at the top. The bad news is that the mountain is flanked by private property and access is currently a sensitive issue.

Mount Silverheels (13,822 feet; class 1) (rank: #92)
Mount Silverheels is a popular and excellent easy-to-climb mountain in the Tenmile-Mosquito Range and one that should be on the list of any true aficionado of Colorado mountaineering. In good conditions, you can bring your whole family on the standard South Ridge route, which has a good trail all the way to an excellent and rewarding summit. A classic high-alpine hike that is less threatening than some.

McGregor Mountain (10,486 feet; class 5.2) (rank: #2043)
McGregor Mountain from Beaver Meadows
McGregor Mountain is a somewhat obscure peak with a very prominent position: towering over the Beaver Meadows entrance station to Rocky Mountain National Park. It stands like a shield over the busy highway below, not high enough to draw as much attention as other peaks in the park but far more accessible than most. McGregor offers several multipitch lines with great protection, excellent rock and plenty of room for variations. The best part? Most of the routes are easy to moderate, mostly rating in from 5.4 to 5.9, and all of the climbs are at least 3 long pitches.

Mount Powell (13,580 feet; class 2-3) (rank: #198)
Mount Powell is the highest peak in the elusive Gore Range, perhaps the most rugged and least traveled of Colorado's high mountain ranges. While Mount Powell is not a difficult peak in terms of technical terrain, it does require a long approach and has a more rugged and remote feel than more pedestrian class 2 routes in the state. Any journey into this amazing range is bound to bring adventure, and Powell is a worthy trek for those wondering what some of the more popular ranges were like a few decades ago. Adding to the appeal is Mount Powell's rank of 198 which barely sneaks it onto the "Bicentennial" list, or the 200 highest peaks of the state. The Bicentennial list is coveted and elusive milestone in Colorado mountaineering.

Mount Oso (13,684 feet; class 2) (rank: #157)
Mount Oso, or bear in Spansh, is a remote and obscure 13er deep in the heart of the San Juan mountains. It is known for its long approaches and hard-to-reach trailheads. Though Oso is on the Bicentennial list, for many of the above reasons it remains on the outside of most Colorado mountaineer's ticklists. But a journey to Oso takes you to a beautiful and less-trodden corner of arguably Colorado's most impressive range, and this bear of  mountain is worthy of being bumped to the top of you to-do list.

Sunlight Spire (13,995 feet; class 5.10d) (unranked)
Sunlight Spire is one of Colorado's most elusive summits. Based on the 1929 elevation datum, Sunlight Spire is just shy of the magical 14,000-foot mark. But in the revised 1988 datum, generally thought to be more accurate, it has been upgraded to exactly 14,000. However, with only 215 feet of topographical prominence Sunlight Spire is not an "official" peak and therefore not on most climbers' radars. This comes as a sigh of relief to most Colorado mountaineers who look at this peak's splitter-crack summit pitch in despair. It is easily one of the hardest summits to reach in the entire state. Having said this, however, bear in mind that both Thunderbolt Peak, with 223 feet of topographical prominence, and North Maroon Peak, with 234 feet, are both not ranked but are generally considered part of the standard 14er list of California and Colorado respectively.

Peak L ("Necklace Peak") (13,213 feet; class 4) (rank: #473)
Peak L is one of the true gems of the Gore Range, a range known for being tough and elusive. I debated heavily between including Peak Q and Peak L from this portion of the Gores, but settled ultimately on so-called "Necklace Peak" (Peak L) largely due to its overall rugged beauty and the foreboding nature of its easiest route. Reclusive Peak L boasts a knife edge that gives Capitol's more-famous knife a run for its money and an overall sense of adventure that easily makes it one of the least-touched summits of any major peak in the state.

Ice Mountain (13,951 feet; class 3) (rank: #59)
Ice Mountain and the Three Apostles
Ice Mountain from the summit of Mount Huron
Ice Mountain is one of the most interesting peaks in the Sawatch Range from a mountaineering perspective, and one of the most beautiful. In a range known for gentle giants like Mt. Elbert, Mt. Massive and Mt. Harvard whose challenge lies in simple, hamstring-powered vertical gain rather than technical mountaineering, Ice Mountain delivers a smorgasbord of excellent features, including loose rock, exposed scrambling and infamous snow couloirs.

Pigeon Peak (13, 972 feet; class 4) (rank: #57)
There are many worthy mountains in the San Juan range worthy of this list, but I was force to pick only a few. Pigeon Peak is located in one of the cores of Colorado mountaineering: the 10-square mile region of the Weminuche Wilderness Area south of Silverton and east of the Animas River. Rugged and dangerous, Pigeon is a next-door neighbor to the popular 14ers of the Chicago Basin. In fact, Pigeon is closer to and more visible from Highway 550 than any of those peaks. However, Pigeon's rough approaches are less-developed and time consuming, adding to this mountain's foreboding nature. Pigeon is an exposed and craggy 13er. It is one of the highest and most difficult of the so-called "Centennial" 13ers.

Jagged Mountain (13,824 feet; class 5.2) (rank: #94)
People could accuse me of tooting Jagged's horn a little too often, but I just can't say enough about this phenomenal San Juan 13er. With a burly, probably multi-day approach, and an exposed and technical standard route, this is a beautiful mountain that Colorado can be proud of.
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Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Hot Route: The DeCaLiBron (The Democrat, Cameron, Lincoln, Bross Loop)

Kite Lake Trailhead          
Length: 7 miles
Difficulty: class 2
Elevation gain: 3,500 feet
Exposure: Mild

OVERVIEW
Mt. Lincoln from Mt. Cameron
Mt. Lincoln in late spring
**NOTE** As of now the summit of Mt. Bross is closed to public access. Climbers that choose to o to the summit anyway could jeopardize future access, which the CFI (Colorado Fourteener Initiative) and CMC (Colorado Mountain Club) are currently fighting to obtain. The Bross portions of this historic route are included only for reference and in the hope that future access is restored.

The Decalibron is by far the easiest route in the state that allows you to collect four of the 59 fourteeners on the extended "59 List", and 3 of the 53 fourteeners on the standard list. In one big loop you can make a ring around this large cirque and collect Democrat, Cameron, Lincoln, and Bross. Since the trailhead at Kite Lake is over 12,000 feet and can be reached by a passenger car, this four-summit tour is highly abridged and quite popular.

Though the technical difficulty on this climb never exceeds class 2, the amount of time you are above 13,000 feet is substantial as is your exposure to weather. At the deepest points of the route the fastest way off is to simply continue around the cirque. As we discovered on a 2010 attempt of this ridge when we climbed in 80 mph winds, getting caught in the wrong conditions can be an unpleasant and even dangerous proposition.

THE ROUTE

The saddle between Colorado 14ers Mount Democrat and Mount Cameron
The saddle between Cameron
and Democrat from Democrat's
summit
From the Kite Lake trailhead, cross the creek and find a strong trail that heads north from the lake. Ascend the easy but winding class 1 trail to the 13,300 foot saddle between Democrat and Cameron. Turn left (west) and climb Mt. Democrat on a low class 2 trail. After enjoying Democrat's summit, descend back to the 13,300 foot saddle. Climb east to the rotund summit of Mt. Cameron, which is not ranked but usually included as one of the six unranked summits to be included in the 59 list.

From Cameron descend gently south to the saddle and it is only a short ways to Lincoln, the tallest route of the group. Lincoln's summit cap involves a small amount of boulder hopping. When you are done with Lincoln descend back to the saddle between Lincoln and Cameron and traverse to Cameron's east side to avoid having to re-climb to the top. Continue aroun the cirque to Bross and make a decision.

Mt. Bross on the Decalibron
Mt. Bross from Mt. Cameron
Currently, it is illegal to climb Mt. Bross, which is located on private property. It is legal to get within a few hundred feet of the summit and traverse on around to descend the West Slopes of Bross. Many people, eager to check off all of Colorado's 14ers, will quickly, quietly and respectfully make the out-and-back to Bross's summit and quietly move on. While it may be tempting to do so, you could jeopardize future access to the peak. Tread lightly!

The descent down Bross is steep and a bit gravelly at times, but very quickly you will be back down at your car.

DIRECTIONS
In the center of Alma turn west (right if coming from Hoosier Pass, left if coming from Fairplay) off Highway 9 onto Kite Lake Rd. Follow this mostly smooth dirt road for 6 miles to Kite Lake. In some conditions lower clearance cars will sometimes park a few turns below the lake but I've seen sports cars come rolling into the parking lot before. There is limited camping available here.

Mount Democrat in the snow
The last few, snowy feet on Democrat
TRIP REPORTS
Decalibron: How to Climb in a Hurricane- Eighty mile-per-hour winds and snowy conditions on the Democrat, Cameron, Lincoln, and Bross loop.

LINKS
Decalibron on 14ers.com

Decalibron on Summitpost.org

Colorado's Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs by Gerry Roach on Amazon.com- Better yet, buy this helpful and entertaining guidebook at your local gear shop or bookstore.

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Thursday, August 29, 2013

Colorado 14ers the Hard Way

The North Face of Longs Peak and the Old Cables Route
Longs Peak at sunrise
Tired of the crowds on Colorado's 14ers? Bored by the standard routes on most of them anyway? Here is an interesting ticklist that provides a unique and much more challenging way to reach the summit of Colorado's 14ers. For some mountains that boast several worthy technical candidates, I have provided a "regular" option and a "legend" option. Anyone who climbs all of the routes on this list by the "legend" option is certainly worthy of the title. (Should anyone complete this trip and want to write about it, I would love to hear your story. Email us at coloradomountaineering2010@gmail.com). If the mountain has other pages in the Colorado Mountaineering database (including mountain profiles, featured routes or trip reports) you can click on the mountain to find these. It is also worth noting that the following  is the "59 List" which includes the 53 "ranked" 14ers plus six common additions (noted in the list with an "*"). Also included is Sunlight Spire, another unofficial peak that is not a 14er by the traditional 1929 datum. Here they are in order of height:

(note: the elevations are based on the customary 1929 datum. The 1988 datum, thought to be more accurate, raises the elevation from 3-8 feet on each peak. Interestingly, however, the mountaineering world most commonly refers to the heights of these peaks by the old datum calibration)

1. Mount Elbert (14,433' or 4401 m)
Box Creek Couloir (class 2+/moderate snow)- This mellow to moderate snow climb on the east face of Colorado's tallest mountain provides the most challenging way to climb Mt. Elbert. Start as for the North Mount Elbert trail and veer onto the face from around treeline. This also makes for a good, steep ski descent.

2. Mount Massive (14,421' or 4396 m)
North Massive Traverse (class 3)- traversing from "North Massive" to Mount Massive requires some loose, exposed class 3 climbing and is the most technically challenging route on the Massive's massif. Start as for the West Ridge route but veer toward North Massive at around 13,500'. After reaching North Massive you begin the traverse to Mount Massive. This is where the class 3 terrain lies.

3. Mount Harvard (14,420' or 4395 m)
The Rabbits (class 5.7)- the direct traverse from Mt. Harvard to Mt. Columbia provides a unique and technical route in a range that is otherwise known for being easy. Doing the traverse from Columbia to Harvard requires a short pitch of technical class 5.7 climbing. If you do the traverse  from Harvard to Columbia you can rappel this pitch.

4. Mount Blanca (14,345' or 4372 m)
Gash Ridge (class 5.4)- Gash Ridge is the east ridge of Mount Blanca. It is a long, exposed traverse, and while the climb itself isn't particularly long, it is very committing and loose. Caution is paramount to a successful climb, as is cooperative weather.

Legend: Ormes Buttress (class 5.6)- Ormes Buttress climbs the Blanca's northeast face. The route is reported as decent but plauged by loose rock and bad protection. This route has not seen many ascents in recent years. Still there is quality here. Retreat is difficult and be prepared to do lots of 4th and low 5th class climbing.

*4a. "North Massive" (14,340' or 4370 m)
North Massive Traverse (class 3)- As for Mount Massive, this is the most challenging way to climb the "North Massive," an un-ranked 14er that has 280' of topographical prominence making it just short of achieving "rank" by typical Colorado standards. Traversing from "North Massive" to Mount Massive requires some loose, exposed class 3 climbing. Start as for the West Ridge route but veer toward North Massive at around 13,500'. After reaching North Massive you begin the traverse to Mount Massive. This is where the class 3 terrain lies.

5. La Plata Peak (14,336' or 4369 m)
Ellingwood Ridge (class 3)- Ellingwood Ridge is a classic and excellent class 3 climb. In my opinion it is one of the best routes on any Colorado 14er at the class 3 level. When you climb the standard Northwest Ridge, Ellingwood is obvious. It is essentially the northeast ridge of the mountain, though it curves across the entire northern slope. It is log, mostly solid, and famous, as it is named after famous Colorado mountaineer Albert Ellingwood.

6. Uncompahgre (14,309' or  4361 m)
West Face (class 2, moderate snow)- The different snow couloirs on the west face of this gentle giant probably provide the most technical challenge for the more advanced mountaineer. In good conditions, there are several options, all of which are similar in terms of technical difficulty, but some are longer than others. There is the possibility of a direct finish from the central couloir that involves climbing some gnarly, manky class 4 (your Legend challenge) up the northern end of the summit cliffs. This option may be ill-advised due to the rock quality, though the position is incredible.

7. Crestone Peak (14,294' or 4356 m)
Peak/Needle Traverse (5.easy)- The Crestone Peak/Crestone Needle Traverse is one of the classic Alpine traverses of Colorado. It is exciting and exposed and requires some route-finding and semi-technical climbing that most choose to do unroped. This traverse is a significant step in difficulty from either of the standard routes.

Legend: North Pillar (5.8)- The North Pillar of Crestone Peak is an infrequently climbed but viable Sangre De Cristo route on what is arguably one of Colorado's most dramatic 14ers. This route has some issues with runouts and loose rock and is not as classic as the Ellingwood Arete on its twin, Crestone Needle, but it is a viable and exciting alpine climb.

8. Mount Lincoln (14,286' or 4354 m)
Lincoln Ampitheatre (class 2+)- It is hard to make much of Lincoln, but this route is a way to see Lincoln from a direction other than Kite Lake and is probably more difficult than the standard DeCaLiBron route.

9. Grays Peak (14,270' or 4349 m)
Lost Rat Couloir (class 2, moderate snow)- The Lost Rat Couloir is a surprisingly good alternative to the busy and tame Gray's Peak trail. In good conditions this route is an excellent initiation into the world of snow couloir climbing.

10. Mount Antero (14,269' or 4349 m)
North Ridge (class 2, moderate snow)- Antero is another mountain it is hard to make much of. This route has little to recommend unless the snow conditions are ideal. Beware! This is a known avalanche chute! If the snow is right, it can be fun. When the snow is gone, it is rotten and ill-advised. Acceptable alternative: Though it is not technically harder than the standard route, either Little Browns or Browns Creek offer off-the-beaten path alternatives that are worthy of this list because they require considerably more distance and elevation gain than the traditional route, thus "harder".

11. Torreys Peak (14,267' or 4348 m)
Kelso Ridge (class 3)- Kelso Ridge is a worthy adversary for the 14er enthusiast that wants more than the over-crowded Grays/Torreys standard. Look down on the crowds with contempt on this classic class 3 line. Kelso follows the northeast ridge of Torreys and forms the right-hand skyline for much of the Grays Peak trail standard route.

12. Castle Peak (14,265' or 4347 m)
Castle Couloir (class 2, moderate snow)- Though this route shares the same approach, it is a considerable step-up from the standard Northeast Ridge.

Legend: West Ridge (class 3)- This long route take the Conundrum Hot Springs trail to the Conundrum Hot Springs. This route is probably best done as a backpack. Enjoy the hot springs (don't expect solitude in most seasons and keep in mind that water quality at the springs themselves has been called into question recently) and ascend a loose, adventures route up the west ridge. You can also climb "Castleabra," one of Colorado's 200 highest peaks.

13. Quandary Peak (14,265' or 4347 m)
Quandary Couloir (class 4, steep snow)- This couloir is on Quandary's northern side and provides an excellent and exciting route when in good conditions that is a stark contrast to the standard East Slopes route that is known for being easy.

Legend: Inwood Arete (5.5)- There are several ways to climb this "arete" and the difficulty and protection will vary depending on where you start.

14. Mount Evans (14,264' or 4347 m)
The Sawtooth (class 3-4)- This truly belongs here, as you typically make this classic traverse after climbing Mt. Bierstadt on your way to Evans. The Sawtooth is one of my favorite class 3 Colorado climbs, and should be on any Colorado mountaineer's list.

Legend: Summit Apron, 2nd Apron (class 5.7-5.8)- The summit Aprons on the north side of Mt. Evans have some amazing alpine rock climbing. This is a growing an developing area. Any of the routes on the 2nd Apron are good. The 2nd Apron Right Side (III 5.7) is probably the most frequently climbed. Add in that you can do these climbs with zero approach and you can see the appeal.

15. Longs Peak (14,255' or 4344 m)
Kiener's Route (5.4, moderate snow)- Kiener's Route is one of the most classic mountaineering routes on a peak literally covered in world-class lines. Kiener's route is the way to climb Longs unbelievable east face without taking on the Diamond directly. Kiener's has a little of everything: a tricky snow climb (The Lamb's Slide), huge exposure on the Broadway traverse, and several pitches of tricky class 5.4 climbing on the confusing terrain near the eastern edge of the world-famous Diamond.

Legend: The Diamond (IV 5.10)- Any one of the routes on the Diamond will certainly fulfill your qualifications for the Longs portion of your Legend title. The recommended routes would be The Casual Route (IV 5.10a), Pervertical Santucary (IV 5.10d), D7 (IV 5.11c), or Ariana (IV 5.12a) in order of difficulty, though there are quite a few others.

16. Wilson Peak (14,246' or 4342 m)
East Face (class 4, moderate snow)- An excellent snow climb with a longer than usual season. After the excellent snow climb (if conditions are good), you will have to take on the summit cap from a different angle than the standard route.

*16a. Cameron Peak (14,238' or 4339 m)
How can one make Cameron harder? I'd be happy if you skipped over and tagged it after climbing The Lincoln Amphitheater. Or perhaps you could climb it in the winter. Since Cameron is probably the weakest of the included unranked peaks, you could skip it altogether. You decide what makes you feel official on this one.

17. Shavano Peak (14,229' or 4337 m)
Angel of Shavano (class 2, easy snow)- This excellent, introductory-level snow climb is not as challenging as most of the other climbs on this list, but is still worthy because it ascends an excellent and historical feature and is more technically challenging than the standard route.

18. Mount Princeton (14,197' or 4327 m)
For the first time I am stumped. This is a hard one to make harder, there just arent many options and they really are all about the same in terms of technical difficulty. I propose three possibilities: doing the standard route but starting on foot at the bottom trailhead and not driving up to the radio tower (adds almost 2,000 vertical feet) or doing the Southwest Ridge route that, although is probably about the same in difficulty, is at least something different.

19. Mount Belford (14,197' or 4327 m)
Another tough one. Climb Belford and Oxford in the same day but by coming from Oxford after having climbed the East Ridge route (see subsequent entry).

20. Crestone Needle (14,197' or 4327 m)
Peak/Needle Traverse (5.easy)- The Crestone Peak/Crestone Needle Traverse is one of the classic Alpine traverses of Colorado. It is exciting and exposed and requires some route-finding and semi-technical climbing that most choose to do unroped. This traverse is a significant step in difficulty from either of the standard routes.

Legend: Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)- This is one of the most classic at best-known alpine climbs in Colorado and thus is a mandatory inclusion on this list. This historic route is named after Albert Ellingwood who first climbed it in 1925. This route is also particularly well-known since it was included in the famous book 50 Classic Climbs of North America.

21. Mount Yale (14,196' or 4327 m)
East Ridge (class 2)- For once I am truly stumped. This route is no harder than the standard route but it does gain 600 feet of additional elevation and is something different than the over-used Southwest Slopes standard route.

22. Mount Bross (14,177' or 4321 m)
Since currently there is no legal way to climb Mount Bross, I am going to leave this one essentially blank. Even if there were legal access to the summit, Bross is one of the most rounded and blobby of all Colorado's 14ers. A quick out-and-back during the DeCaLiBron would be more than enough for my tastes to qualify for this list. Move on to the next project....

23. Kit Carson Peak (14,165' 4317 m)
North Ridge (class 4)- This intimidating-looking ridge is probably best done from Willow Lake. The ridge is fairly direct though there are plenty of options for route finding. The rock is remarkably solid but nonetheless it is still important to be mindful of loose rock.

Legend: The Prow (5.8)- The Prow is one of Colorado's coolest and most unique technical 14er climbs. The Prow follows the exposed fin on the southwest ridge of the peak. While the protection on this strange conglomerate rock is not always ample, pulling on the knobs and bulges of the Crestone conglomerate is one of the most exhilarating experiences in the Colorado mountains, and this route is arguably the best. Despite its moderate rating, this climb is exposed and committing and certainly no place to be if you in-experienced (or in a storm).

*23a. El Diente (14,159' or 4316 m)
West Ridge (class 4)- The West Ridge route on El Diente is a long, more complicated and much more exposed route than either the common North Slopes (class 3, steep snow) or the North Buttress (class 4). Depending on the conditions the final mile of this route will include either a long, complicated traverse, or a long knife-edge scoot fest.

24. Maroon Peak (14,156' or 4315 m)
The Bell Chord Couloir (class 4, steep snow)- Though I don't really care which order you decided to do them in, for the purposes of this list I suggest climbing The Bell Chord and the Maroon>North Maroon Traverse as a "hard" way to climb both of these peaks.  Seemingly this would require two ascents, one of which would be, in part, a grueling repeat. With this in mind, I suggest the following: ascend the Bell Chord Couloir and climb each of the peaks, traversing across to hit both summits. Descend either of the standard routes.

25. Tabeguache Peak (14,155 or 4314 m)
Northeast Slopes (class 2)- This route isn't more difficult technically than either of the standard routes (via the now closed West Ridge or by traversing over from Mt. Shavano) but it is longer and more adventurous, requiring 17 miles of hiking and over 5,000 feet of elevation gain.

26. Mount Oxford (14,153' or 4313 )
East Ridge (class 2)- This route is not harder than the West Ridge route (which requires traversing over from Mt. Belford) but requires more distance. To complete this list you mist climb Oxford from the East Ridge, traverse over to Belford and back. Now that is a long day....


27. Mount Sneffels (14,150' or 4312 m)
Southwest Ridge (class 3)- The Southwest Ridge of Mount Sneffels is one of Colorado's best class 3 lines. It entails a lot of good scrambling, some exposure, and some loose rock. It is a less populated and higher quality version of the standard Southeast Ridge (class 2+) and a full grade level more difficult.

Alternative: Snake Couloir (class 3, steep snow)
The Snake Gully on Sneffels' dramatic Nouth Face, is one of Colorado's best moderate snow climbs on a 14er. The route winds its way like its namesake up the picturesque and rugged face. It is quiet compared to the routes on the mountain's southern side, and high quality couloir climbing for over 1,000 feet.

Legend: North Buttress (III 5.6)- The North Buttress is the premier technical route on Mt. Sneffels. It takes the steep ridge/buttress just to the left of the Snake Couloir. Expect loose rock, route-finding challenges, and some runout protection.

28. Mount Democrat (14,148' or 4312 m)
North Ridge (class 3)- This is a surprising scramble on a mountain that is known for being easy. While most routes on Democrat climb from a high trailhead at Kite Lake (12,000 feet) this climb is usually attempted from the other side of the mountain at Montgomery Reservoir (10,900 feet). There is some good scrambling here and some choss. Climb smart and careful and get to experience this mountain from a whole different perspective.

29. Capitol Peak (14,130' or 4306 m)
North Ridge of K2>Northeast Ridge Direct (class 5.easy)- From the Daly/Capitol saddle, follow the ridge direct instead of traversing down into the basin. This adds considerable class 4 to the standard route. Rejoin the standard route near K2 and follow it across the Knife Edge. Leave the standard route as it traverses out onto the East Face and follow the east ridge directly to the summit (low class 5).

Legend: Northwest Ridge (5.7 or 5.9)- The Northwest Ridge is an intimidating climb on an notorious mountain. The rock is loose and the terrain is very steep. It is generally accepted nowadays that the 5.9 start is better, as the rock is much more solid and the lower pitches are the best of the climb. This somewhat rarely climbed route is a Colorado classic for the worthy alpinist.

30. Pikes Peak (14,110' or 4301 m)
Y-Couloir (class 3, steep snow)- Pikes Peak at times feels like the gentle giant of Colorado 14ers, but it does have a wild side. The most challenging routes on Pikes all exist on the mountains North Face, which steepens in a set of inset couloirs near the mountain's summit. The Y-Couloir ascends a line on the western side of the mountain's most rugged face.

Snowmass from the West
31. Snowmass Mountain (14,092' or 4295 m)
S-Ridge (class 3)- The S-Ridge is an infrequently climbed and dangerous route on Snowmass Mountain. Since I believe it to be only slightly more difficult than the standard route and way less fun, I would also call climbing the standard route in the winter an acceptable alternative.

32. Windom Peak (14,087' or 4294 m)
Northwest Face (class 3, moderate snow)- This face is an inexact line up an impressive face that holds snow well into summer. It is more difficult and more involved than the standard West Ridge route.

33. Mount Eolus (14,084' or 4293 m)
South Ridge (class 4)- Though it uses the same Needleton approach, this route takes on Eolus by a whole different side. This ridge is longer and much more complicated than the standard Northeast Ridge, and is not climbed very often at all.

34. Challenger Point (14,081' or 4292 m)
Kirk Couloir (class 2, steep snow)- This quality snow climb is a step up in technical demand from the standard North Slopes route. The couloir itself is over 800 feet long and reaches around 50 degrees in steepness.

35. Mount Columbia (14,073' or 4289 m)
East Ridge (class 2)- The East Ridge isn't really harder than the standard West Slopes route, but it is longer and gains about 700 feet of additional elevation. My recommendation is to climb Columbia via this route than traverse to Harvard via the Rabbits. This will complete your requirements for these peaks for this list, but it isn't particularly convenient since both routes are better accessed from different trailheads. With a car-shuttle it is possible to go in from Three Elks trailhead and come out the North Cottonwood trail. This might be your best bet to knock both of these routes in one day/journey.
North Face of Missouri in July

36. Mount Missouri (14,067' or 4288 m)
North Face (class 3, moderate snow)- The North Face of Mount Missouri offers an exciting and different way to take on this rugged Sawatch gem. From high in Missouri Gulch choose one of the couloirs on the obvious north face and climb it to the top. Depending on which couloir you choose you will join the Northwest Ridge for the final traverse to the summit.

37. Humboldt Peak (14,064' or 4287 m)
Since there are no routes on Humboldt more challenging than the standard West Ridge from South Colony Lakes, I am stumped once again. I would suggest climbing it in the winter, but that necessitates a separate trip to a tightly compacted region. Logistically it makes little sense. Just make it to the summit, okay.

Legend: the true legend will take the extra step and make something of Humboldt by climbing it in the winter.

38. Mount Bierstadt (14,060' or 4285 m)
East Ridge (class 3)- The East Ridge is an excellent way make more of a peak that is generally considered to be easy. The following is the recommended (and quite hard) way to satisfy both Mt. Evans and Mt. Bierstadt in one shot. Climb the East Ridge to the summit of Bierstadt. Traverse to Evans via the Sawtooth Ridge (class 3). Lots of distance and lots of scrambling to get to this point, but now it is time for the long descent. Follow the Mt. Evans road down to 13,400 feet. At the apex of a prominent switchback, descend south towards the saddle between Mt. Evans and Mt. Epaulet (13,523 feet). Turn west and descend steeply through a notch following Mt. Evans' Southwest Slopes (class 2) route. Connect with the Abyss Lake trail around 12,000 feet and follow it 6.5 miles back to your car at Scott Gomer Creek. Phew! Or, if that sounds like too big of a day, climb the Sawtooth and the East Ridge separately.

*38a. Conundrum Peak (14,060' or 4285 m)
Conundrum Couloir (class 3, steep snow)- Conundrum Couloir is one of the better and more defined couloirs in the Elk Range. From high in Montezuma Basin, climb the steep couloir for 5oo feet to the saddle between Conundrum's two summits. There is often a cornice near the top.

Legend- climb the couloir in the winter and ski down it.

39. Sunlight Peak (14,059' or 4285 m)
West Ridge (class 4)- This excellent San Juan classic should be a must do for any true San Juan aficionado. This is a more difficult and involved way to climb Sunlight than the standard South Slopes route. This route has more class 3 scrambling and more class 4 scrambling than the South Slopes. And you still have to deal with the summit cap just the same.

40. Handies Peak (14,048' or 4282 m)
Tour De Grizzly (class 2, moderate snow)- This climb, listed as "Tour De Grizzly" (numbered 28R9 V1) in Gerry Roach's Colorado Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs, ascends a long snow gully to Point 12,792. From here you traverse along the ridge over several strenuous bumps to the summit.

41. Culebra Peak (14,047' or 4281 m)
Unfortunately there is only one option for climbing this mountain for now due to private property. In order to boycott what I believe are exorbitantly high prices to climb this mountain (over $100 nowadays), I recommend deleting this mountain from your 14er list...for now.

42. Mount Lindsey (14,042' or 4280 m)
North Couloir (class 2, moderate snow)- Another good snow climb and a way to see Lindsey from a different perspective. This climb ascends a relatively mild couloir directly to the summit. On descent, follow the class 3 Northwest Ridge variation to the standard North Face for full value.

43. Ellingwood Point (14,042' or 4280 m)
Southwest Ridge (class 3)- An excellent and more difficult alternative to the class 2 standard South Face route. This awesome scramble is not horribly difficult but is worth its weight in fun.

Legend: North Ridge (5.easy)- This scary route makes quite a challenge out of Ellingwood Point and offers quite a little challenge.

*43a. North Eolus (14,039' or 4279 m)
This short, unofficial summit does have much power or many options. Just climb it and move on....

44. Little Bear (14,037' or 4278 m)
Northwest Face (5.easy)- Though you do not have to face the dreaded Hourglass, this route is long, ore sustained and more dangerous than the standard West Ridge (Hourgalss) route. An acceptable alternative would be the treacherous and brutally long Southwest Ridge, which I also believe is more difficult than the Hourglass.

45. Mount Sherman (14,036' or 4278 m)
Another lump of a mountain without many options. Climb Mount Sherman in the winter by any route.

46. Redcloud Peak (14,034' or 4277 m)
West Gullies (class 2, moderate snow)- When conditions are good there are several options for an easy snow climb that are definitely more challenging than the standard Northeast Ridge.

47. Pyramid Peak (14,018' or 4273 m)
Northwest Ridge (class 4)- Though Pyramid's standard Northeast Ridge route is probably more difficult than several of the route on this list, there is a way to make Pyramid harder. Starting from the same basin at 12,000 feet, this route veers away from the standard route and takes on the mountain from the other side.

48. Wilson Peak (14,017' or 4272 m)
As of now there is only one syndicated route on Wilson Peak, the standard West Ridge. You could make it more of a challenge by seeking out a lesser-known route, pioneering your own new route, or climbing it in the winter. But then, do you climb Wilson Peak and Mount Wilson both in winter? Or do separate trips to the area?

49. Wetterhorn Peak (14,015' or 4271 m)
East Ridge (class 4)- Climb the slightly longer and more difficult East Ridge of Wetterhorn which circles around an still enjoys the famous summit pitch of Wetterhorn's standard Southeast Ridge.

50. San Luis Peak (14,014' or 4271 m)
Pointfest (class 3)- This nifty idea comes from Gerry Roach's Colorado's Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs, a book that any 14er aficionado should posses. You will find most of these routes in that book. In this case, Roach numbered the route 26R2 V1 in the third edition. In my mind there is no other way for an aspiring Legend or anyone attempting 14ers the Hard Way than this. This huge traverse is a variation of the South Ridge that follows instead a ridge along the Continental Divide up and over four summits, three of which are over 13,000 feet and two of which are ranked.

*50a. North Maroon Peak (14,014' or 4271 m)
Maroon/North Maroon Traverse (5.easy)- The Bell Cord and the Traverse are interchangeable. I recommend combining the two by climbing the Bell Cord and traversing between the two summits once on the saddle. This makes for a tough day worthy of the Hard Way list.

51. Mount of the Holy Cross (14,005' or 4269 m)
Cross Couloir (class 3, steep now)- This classic line is famous for two reasons: its quality and intensity as a snow couloir and ski descent, and its association with the namesake religious feature (the climb ascends the center of the cross).

Legend:  A mountaineering legend would climb the cross and ski back down it.... If you are a legend but not a skiing legend then climb both this and either Halo Ridge or Angelica preferably but not obligatorily on the same trip.

52. Huron Peak (14,003' or 4268 m)
East Slopes (class 2)- Though a 4WD vehicle can shorten this route to as little as 5 miles, it is the most difficult terrain on an established Huron route and from the standard trailhead at Rockdale (9,940 feet) it is almost two miles longer than the easier Northwest Slopes route. The other appealing aspect of this climb is that it takes on Huron from the completely opposite side as the other, more popular routes.

53. Sunshine Peak (14,001' or 4267 m)
Northwest Ridge (class 2+)- This route is a little more difficult than the standard Northeast Ridge. A recomended link-up would be to combine this with Redcloud's West Gullies route to satisfy your "Hard Way" criteria for both these peaks at once. Hard to say if doing the traverse one way or the other is more difficult, that might depend more on your strengths and/or weaknesses.

*53a. Sunlight Spire (14,000' or 4266 m)
Legend: Standard Route (5.10c)- According to the 1988 datum, Sunlight Spire just reaches the 14,000' mark. Though it doesn't have 300' of prominence and is not an official 14er (or even ranked at all), it is the hardest peak in the state to reach the summit of by the easiest route and it perhaps the most airy and astounding 14,000' perch in the Lower 48. How could any self-respecting Legend not climb this?

*indicates a mountain that does not meet the qualifications for being "ranked" (at least 300 feet of topographical prominence)

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