Peak of the Week: Mount Columbia (14,073' or 4289 m)

INTRO

Near the summit of Mount Columbia

Overshadowed by its taller neighbor and third highest peak in Colorado Mount Harvard, and marred by a protracted scree field through which the standard route ascends, Mount Columbia is sometimes poo-pooed by 14er climbers and other mountaineers. I have often heard the standard West Slopes route described as "the worst route on any 14er". While I won't tell you that it is my favorite route, I will say that I enjoyed my climb of it back in 2009. And if you are un-inspired by the stories you have heard of the West Slopes, consider an alternate route such as the East Ridge or spice it up by taking the direct ridge traverse (the "Rabbits") to Mount Harvard (class 5.7). Regardless of what you have heard or whatever route you choose to climb, Mt. Columbia is a worthy peak and if you allow yourself you will have a good time. Should you feel forced into the standard route and are feeling down about it, consider backpacking in to the Horn Fork Basin and staying for several days, maybe incorporating a climb of Harvard as well. I find this to be a beautiful, albeit somewhat busy, place and have never left disappointed when I have entered.

DIRECTIONS

Harvard Lakes Trailhead
The Harvard Lakes Trail provides access to Columbia's eastern side and is the approach trail for the East and Southeast Ridge routes.Off Highway 24 in Buena Vista turn west (right if you are heading towards Salida) on Chaffee County 350. After 2 miles turn right on Chaffee County 361. A quarter mile farther the road turns to dirt. Half a mile farther, turn left onto Chaffee County 365. Reach the trailhead 3.5 miles farther on the north side of the road.

North Cottonwood Trailhead
North Cottonwood Trail is the best access point for the Horn Fork Basin and is the approach for the standard West Slopes route on Columbia as well as the South Slopes (standard) route on Harvard as well as the combination routes. From the Harvard Lakes Trailhead, continue for another mile and a half to a large parking area and trailhead at the end of the road.

Three Elk Trailhead
Find Chaffee County 350 off Highway 24 in Buena Vista. After 2 miles turn right onto Chaffee Countt 361. After almost 4 miles, turn west onto Chaffee County 368. After another mile, turn left onto 368A and right onto FR 368 just a little farther. The trailhead is marked three-quarters of a mile later.

ROUTES
West Slopes (10.5 miles; 4,250' elevation gain; class 2) 

The west slopes is the shortest and easiest route on Mount Columbia. Taking the same approach as the standard South Slopes route on Mount Harvard, you follow North Cottonwood Trail into the Horn Fork Basin. After just over 4 miles the route veers west and starts up a long slog up steep, sometimes loose scree. This gnarly slopes gains over 2,000' and is unpleasant to descend. Consider another descent route or something such as the Columbia-Harvard traverse. Once you have reached the ridge, hike a rolling half mile north to the summit.

East Ridge (12 miles; 5,300' elevation gain; class 2)
The East Ridge of Mount Columbia provides an engaging alternative to the oft-cursed West Slopes. Follow the Three Elk Trail as it winds through a beautiful forest, crossing some logging roads, dropping into a small gorge with a creek crossing, and finally reaching the end of the trail at a flat spot near  treeline. From here, climb northwest towards the east ridge. Once you have found the ridge near 12,500' follow it up and over several false summits to the actual summit.

Southeast Ridge (11 miles; 5,129' elevation gain; class 2)
The Southeast Ridge provides another alternative to the loose, gravelly slopes of the standard route. From the trailhead, follow the Harvard Lakes Trail/Colorado Trail through the forest for under a mile until it reaches the ridge proper. Leave the Colorado Trail and follow the serpentine ridge all the way to the summit, crossing Point 13,298 in the process. The last half mile joins with the West Slopes route to the summit.

Harvard/Columbia combination (14 miles; 5,900' elevation gain; class 2)
This is the easiest way to climb Columbia and Harvard together. Climb the West Slopes route on Columbia all the way to the summit. From Columbia's summit, descend north, staying well east of the connecting ridge with Harvard. Staying on the ridge proper will require class 4 and 5 climbing (see "The Rabbits"), descend to 12,800' and contour northwest until it is clear that you are past the ridge proper's pinnacles and spires. Ascend an arduous talus slope to Harvard's east ridge and follow this to the summit.

"The Rabbits" traverse (13.5 miles; 5,600' elevation gain; class 5.7)

Pinnacles on the connecting ridge with Harvard

This is the direct traverse between Harvard and Columbia. It requires some hard, exposed scrambling and one short pitch of 5.7 climbing. If you are doing the traverse from Harvard to Columbia you can rappel this pitch. It is described here from Columbia to Harvard. Follow the West Slopes of Columbia route to its summit. Descend northwest along the ridge proper. Climb or traverse around Point 13,497 with some hard scrambling. Reach a notch at the base of the Rabbits and climb the short, crux 5.7 pitch to the ridge's east side. Scramble around  the remaining pinnacles on the east side and arrive at the 13,100' saddle between the two mountains. After climbing Point 13,516 you reach Harvard East Ridge. Follow this route to the summit.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
Mount Columbia is in the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness Area and special regulations apply.

TRIP REPORTS
None at this time

LINKS
Mount Columbia on summitpost.org

Mount Columbia on 14ers.com

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PEAK OF THE WEEK: Snowmass Mountain (14,092' or 4295 m)

INTRO

Snowmass Mountain from 13,500'

Snowmass Mountain is one of Colorado's more remote and beautiful 14,000' peaks. Situated deep in the Elk Range, Snowmass holds a premium position in one of Colorado's most spectacular areas. From any side Snowmass is a formidable peak, and it is difficult to see from civilization. From certain distant peaks, however, such as Mount of the Holy Cross and other Sawatch and Mosquito Range vantages, Snowmass's distinct twin-summit can be located. It is often one of the last peaks with snow still on it. Both Snowmass and Geneva Lakes on the mountain's east and west sides respectively are two of my Colorado favorites. They are dramatic and both teeming with great trout. They epitomize the area and Colorado. While 13,600' Snowmass Peak, a subsidary and "unofficial" satellite of 87th ranked Hagerman Peak (13,841') dominates the foreground from Snowmass Lake, the view from the West or from the Pierre Lakes to the north reveals Snowmass as the beast it truly is.

DIRECTIONS
Snowmass Trailhead (Snowmass Lake Approach)
From Highway 82 28 miles south of Glenwood Springs (or 13 miles north of the roundabout in Aspen) turn west at the town of Old Snowmass (not to be confused with Snowmass Village, the ski area) onto Snowmass Creek Road. Turn left at a T-junction after a mile and a half (right will take you to Capitol). You hit the dirt road seven miles after turning off Hwy 82 and cross the creek at mile 10.5. Take a right at another intersection a half mile later and the trailhead is only about a quarter-mile beyond that.

Crystal Trailhead (Geneva Lake approach)

Geneva Lake

From the town of Marble off Highway 133 south of Carbondale, follow the main road through Marble until it steepens and becomes dramatically rougher. It is only about five miles to Crystal City but those miles are slow, agonizing and rough. Along the way you will pass the Crystal Mill Falls, one of Colorado's most photographed spots. Crystal City is not far past the photogenic waterfall and there is good parking in a flat area just beyond the city before the road becomes even worse. 4WD is highly recommended if not required even to get to this point. This normal trailhead is just shy of 9,000' elevation. If you like abusing your vehicle, a strong 4WD vehicle can continue all the way to Lead King Basin to shorten the climb 2 miles each way and knock off 800' of vertical.

ROUTES
There are several ways to climb Snowmass Mountain, and there are pros and cons to each option. No matter which way you go, you will be forced to deal with loose rock, exposure, class 3 scrambling, and lots of vertical gain. Snowmass is one of Colorado's more challenging 14ers to do in a single day.

East Slopes Route (class 3, 5,700' elevation gain)

Snowmass Mountain's summit block

The East Slopes route is the standard route on Snowmass Peak. But with a low trailhead (8,400') and a lot of loose scrambling, it is still a long, arduous ascent and certainly no gimmee. A near-permanent snowfield requires some knowledge of snow travel in all but the driest conditions and the mountain's loose rock is notoriously dangerous. Despite these drawbacks, however, this route is one of my favorite of all the standard routes on any Colorado 14er. It is beautiful and classic. I recommend two days with a basecamp at Snowmass Lake. This is a popular spot, so don't expect solitude, but the awe-inspiring beauty more than makes up for it.

West Face (class 3, 5,100' elevation gain)
The West Face of Snowmass is a shorter climb with less vertical, but it is looser and more dangerous than the East Slopes standard route. For those that are trying to climb Colorado's 14ers as expediently as possible, this is probably the best route for you. It can easily be done in a single day. However, I find this route to be not quite as beautiful or engaging as the East Slopes. If you can, I recomened a bivvy at Geneva Lake. Not really because it shortens your summit day, but because this small lake is a hidden gem with great fishing. It is a quiet and amazing corner of a generally over-crowded Elk Range and well worth spending the night at. From Geneva, this route take a nearly direct shot up a shallow gully/couloir left of center on the face. This route is very loose and there is more sustained class 3 section than on the East Slopes route. This route has been known to be deadly, usually due to its bad rock and tricky route-finding, so approach this route with caution.

S-Ridge (class 3+, 5,100' elevation gain)

West Face of Snowmass from Geneva Lake

The S Ridge takes the same approach as the West Face but diverges at Little Gem Lake to tackle the s-curving ridge (hence the name) between the West and South faces of Snowmass Mountain. This route is even shorter than the West Face but has even more complicated, exposed, and loose scrambling, so takes longer to climb. The rock on this route is so loose, actually, that this route is seldom climbed.


SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
Snowmass Mountain lies in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness Area and special regulations apply. For example, you are not allowed to camp within 100 feet of lakes or streams. Beware, they will ticket you at the compular camping area at Snowmass Lake so be diligent. You are also not allowed to have fires in most areas within the Wilderness Boundaries. It is also required that you carry a permit which includes all of the rules. Check out this page by wilderness.net  that gives more information about the special regulations of the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness area.

Snowmass Peak and Lake

TRIP REPORTS
Snowmass Mounain, Geneva Lake, & the Four Pass Loop-a narrative of a 7 day backpack trip on the Four Pass Loop with an extension out and back to Geneva Lake and culminating in an ascent of the East Slopes Route to the summit.

LINKS
Snowmass Mountain on Summitpost.org- a user-created site with lots of good information. This page includes information about a variety of routes on Snowmass Mountain.

Snowmass Mountain on 14ers.com- the most popular website dedicated solely to Colorado's 14ers. This page includes details information and photographs about Snowmass Mountain and its primary routes.



Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link