Angels and Demons: The Two Faces of Holy Cross

It's Colorado’s most mythical mountain.

The serrated summit of Holy Cross

At the head of a gray basin whose old-growth conifers give way to gumdrop glacial boulders, and a winding crystalline stream dumps over gray ledges then through deep pools and over tall cascades, Mount of the Holy Cross stands guard with its stern, weather-worn face.

We stood at a kink in Half Moon Trail, lost in wonderment by our first look at one of Colorado’s most impressive sights. “That mountain is dangerous,” we were warned by concerned family members. “No one should ever climb that peak.” It seemed like a lot of fuss for a mountain that garnered a paltry Class 2 rating. But of the many climbs my wife, Ella, and I have attempted over the years, perhaps only Capitol Peak generated a more negative reaction from our family and non-climbing friends. For me, however, encountering the stark beauty of that great mountain for the first time is one of the most powerful and emotional memories from my mountaineering life.

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In my opinion, Mount of the Holy Cross is the crown jewel of the Sawatch Range, a spine of peaks in the center of the state that includes many famous summits such as Mt. Elbert, Mt. Massive, Mt. Princeton and La Plata. Holy Cross’s rugged north and east faces seem out of character in a range dominated by sleepy giants with long, relatively gentle slopes. The craggy, boulder-strewn basin into which the famous cross drains feels out-of-place, almost as if it was plucked out of more rugged neighboring ranges and dropped randomly here, 13 miles southwest of Vail.

The postcard image of Colorado’s rood in the sky has inspired believers and non-believers alike ever since an 1873 photo by William H. Jackson first proved true the rumors of a mountain bearing the holy crucifix. It was featured in an oil painting by famed landscape artist Thomas Moran, as well as a poem entitled “The Cross of Snow” by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. For decades the ostensible sign from God drew zealots and fanatics to make pilgrimages to the mountain to witness it. And the great cross of snow did not disappoint.

In contemporary times, the fervor surrounding the religious iconography of this diminutive 14er (the 3rd lowest of Colorado’s 14,000-foot peaks) has waned dramatically. The peak, however, continues to draw alpine and mountaineering enthusiasts from all over the world. Its popularity, combined with some unique and challenging terrain and a series of tragic and semi-mysterious accidents, has lent the mountain a new reputation. One of mystery, menace and danger.

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Storm clouds building over Holy Cross

Holy Cross has been called the “Bermuda Triangle” of the Colorado high country. So numerous have been the rescues, accidents and near-misses that people have come to view the area as cursed. The Holy Cross Wilderness is a rugged and convoluted landscape notorious for misleading trails and terrain that can quickly lead inexperienced and ill-prepared hikers astray. From the primary access point, the Half Moon Trail, hikers and mountaineers on most routes must climb up and over Half Moon Pass before reaching the base of the peak, an undertaking that requires at least 1,000-feet of “wasted” elevation gain in both directions. All of these factors combine to make Holy Cross more difficult and dangerous than your average Class 2 Sawatch 14er.

Of all the accidents and rescues documented in the wilderness surrounding Holy Cross, two incidents in particular provided the most potent fuel for the emerging mythos of Colorado’s most mysterious mountain.

In June of 2010, a 31 year-old man from Chicago named James Nelson went missing while on a 5-day backpack trip in the Holy Cross Wilderness. Despite an exhaustive search that included over 100 volunteers, the days turned to weeks and the weeks into years and still no sign of the missing man was found. It wasn’t until more than two years later that his tattered campsite was spotted near an abandoned mining camp, and his remains were found at last. An investigation of the years-old scene, revealed no evidence of foul play. However, a journal may have indicated he was afflicted by altitude sickness. Still today, however, it's difficult to draw firm conclusions about what happened to Nelson, and the events surrounding his death are somewhat shrouded in mystery.

An even more disturbing and prominent incident was the 2005 disappearance of Michelle Vanek, a 35-year-old mother of four. Vanek, along with her climbing partner, had attempted Halo Ridge, a long and circuitous route that traverses several sub peaks including Holy Cross Ridge (Colorado’s 91st highest mountain), en route to the summit of Mount of the Holy Cross. Halo Ridge is known for its up-and-down terrain and long exposure to the above-treeline elements. Just five-hundred vertical feet shy of the summit but out of food and water, Vanek decided she was too exhausted to continue and gave her partner permission to go ahead to the summit. When he returned, however, there was no sign of Vanek. Despite the largest search in Colorado history, with over 700 people committed to the cause, no trace of Vanek was ever seen again.

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The Gore Range from the standard route on Holy Cross

The morning of our climb was cool and calm, ideal for an attempt at the mythological Holy Cross. As we packed our climbing bags and departed our camp along the bubbling banks of East Cross Creek, first light cast camellia hues over the basin. Far to the north, the blade-like summits of the Gore Range cleaved the morning sky. In the ethereal light, the mountains could have been heavenly.

By 9:00 a.m. after a strenuous but non-exposed climb, we stood on the summit in ecstasy. “We made it!” Ella shouted with a hug. A brilliant panorama spread as far as we could see in every direction.

The clear skies had filled with high, horsetail clouds and the wind was beginning to whip at our shirtsleeves. We basked in the commanding beauty of the mountain for half an hour as the morning gradually matured. Knowing what a long day we had ahead, we grudgingly departed the summit and made the long descent back to camp. By the time we broke down our tent, re-packed our bags, and slogged partway up Half Moon Pass to the final overlook where Holy Cross would disappear from view for good, the skies had changed dramatically.

A terrible storm, black and menacing, hovered directly over the serrated mountain. The tempest appeared to be a product of the peak itself, boiling out of its summit and casting doom on the basin below. The mountain looked more evil now than angelic.

A sharp crack of thunder shook us back to reality.

“Come on,” Ella implored anxiously. “We need to get going.” We still had to climb over the open exposure of Half Moon Pass.

Warily, I turned my back on Holy Cross, feeling moved by that potent place. Is there something mythical that gives power to Holy Cross, a spiritual vortex or religious portal? Or is it just something innate in the mountain’s rugged beauty and naturally complex terrain?

As we hiked out with forks of lightning stabbing the earth all around us, I couldn’t decide what difference there was between the two anyway.

(NOTE: This story was originally published in print and online in Our Backyard (Volume 11, Issue 4, August 2016), which is inserted in The Nickel, and the Moab Times-Independent)

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FEATURED ROUTE: The North Ridge of Mount of the Holy Cross

STANDARD ROUTE (NORTH RIDGE OF MOUNT OF THE HOLY CROSS)

Length: 11 miles (roundtrip)
Total Elevation gain: 5,800'
trail access: Half Moon Trail

The North Ridge of Holy Cross is one of Colorado's best class 2 adventures. It is an amazing and challenging climb that takes you to one of Colorado's hallowed places. The length and total elevation required for this climb necessitate a two-day outing for many people. This might be advised for anyone whose conditioning might not be up for a one-day approach. That trade off, however, is that you will have to lug a heavy backpack over Half Moon Pass twice. Is it easier? The more environmental choice is to minimize your impact by climbing Holy Cross in one day. However, this is a place that warrants a slow, contemplative pace. I recommend a backpack of at least two days. Three might be preferable. Take your time and enjoy this beautiful wilderness. Please minimize your impact by adhering to No Trace Wilderness ethic.

From Half Moon Trailhead, follow Half Moon Trail for 2 miles to Half Moon Pass at 11,600'. On my last trip, I discovered crossing this pass can be exciting in an afternoon thunderstorm. After summitting Half Moon Pass, descend gradually at first towards East Cross Creek. You will soon get your first views of the North Face of Holy Cross, an impressive sight. Soon the trail starts to descend more steeply and you round a corner and get an amazing view of the mountain and the East Cross Creek Basin, complete with steep granite walls on the basin's north flank, the mountain to the south, and a tallish waterfall in the center. You know now if you didnt before that this is a special place. Descend another 900 feet into the creek basin where some excellent campsites exist near the creek. Stay in one of the numbered campsites to minimize impact. You can be ticketed by rangers for camping elsewhere. Not only is it a legal issue anyway, it is environmental, so please respect this.

The Gore Range in the distance from the North Ridge

Cross East Cross Creek at a makeshift rock bridge and follow the trail as it winds up the northern slopes into the high alpine zone. At around 11,500' you will cross treeline. A bit later you will get your first glimpse of the mountain, much closer and even more imposing now. Follow the trail as the ridge tightens to a prominent notch at 13,700'. you can peer down the inset couloir, which is impressive whether it has snow or not. From here the trail gets rougher. Pick your way through class 2 to 2+ terrain to an impressive summit.

Do not get lost on the descent! Remember the route. Going too far west or north of the trail can pull you into the Cross Creek drainage (not the East Cross Creek drainage where you want to be.) While there are trails there, they will take you very far away from your vehicle. Also don't forget you have to go up and over (1,000') Half Moon Pass on the way out. As aforementioned, this can be exciting if the afternoon storms are rolling in and exhausting anytime after a long climb of Holy Cross.

TRIP REPORTS

Longs, Holy Cross, and McGregor Mountain

Frustration in Paradise

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

PEAK OF THE WEEK: Mount of the Holy Cross

MOUNT OF THE HOLY CROSS (14,005' or 4269m)

INTRODUCTION

In many ways, Mount of the Holy Cross is probably Colorado's most famous mountain. It is also one of Colorado's only mountains, joining possibly Pikes Peak, that is distinctly more famous for reasons other than mountaineering. It is the image of the cross, caused by a deeply inset couloir intersected at three-quarters height by a ledge that has made this mountain famous. The image of the snowy cross is a postcard image that defines Colorado. Besides this aesthetic feature, Mount of the Holy Cross is simply an amazing mountain.  

For full disclosure, I should divulge that Holy Cross is quite possibly my favorite Colorado 14er. It is a gem in the Sawatch Range, hidden from major highways, rugged, wild. I imagine that 100 years ago this was a very remote place. Different than other Sawatch mountains, it is festooned with massive walls of perfect granite. The basins on the mountains north and west sides are so rich with great stone, it seems a tragic accident that Holy Cross was not gifted with a good rock route. Oh well, the Standard Route is as fun as any class 2 mountain I have climbed in Colorado and the Cross Couloir and Angelica both provide high quality snow routes that can satiate the more aggressive mountaineer.

GETTING THERE

Just west of Vail take exit 171 off I-70 towards Tennessee Pass on Highway 24. Continue about 3 miles past the town of Minturn and turn right (west) onto Tiguwon Road (FR 707). This long, winding dirt road cuts through the forest, passing a couple of different trailheads and some camping (as well as huge swaths of complete deforestation that were part of the Forest Service attempts to stifle the Pine Beetle epidemic in 2011) before ending at the Half Moon Trailhead and campground after 8.5 miles. This trailhead is the access portal for all of the major routes on Holy Cross. 

ROUTES

1. Standard Route (North Ridge)

This is the easiest and most expedient route to the top of Holy Cross. From Halfmoon trailhead you climb up and over Half Moon Pass (11,600') and down into East Cross Creek Basin. There is good camping near the creek at around 10,700'. Due to the extra elevation go up and over the pass on both the approach and return, many people choose to do this route in 2 days. Please observe all wilderness ethics and regulations. From the creek follow the well-defined trail up the north ridge, past tree line and to a semi-airy ridge with amazing views of the north face of Holy Cross. While you dont get to see the cross (which is on the east face), you do get to see Angelica and jagged ridges and cliffs of the north face proper. Holy Cross is certainly one of the most dramatic Sawatch mountains.

2. Halo Ridge
This breathtaking tour is longer, more exposed, and considerably more strenuous than the North Ridge. But the scenery is even more rewarding. You will climb three thirteeners in addition to Holy Cross, two of which are ranked and one which is #91 on Colorado's 100 Highest list. From the trailhead take the Fall Creek Trail for two and a half miles to the Notch Mountain Trail at 11,100'. Switchback for 3 miles up the Notch Mountain trail to the Notch Mountain shelter at 13,080'. You can stay at this shelter. Call the Forest Service Minturn office for info: 970-827-5715. From here you must traverse the Halo Ridge, a strenuous exposed traverse. It is 2.1 miles from here to the summit of Holy Cross. Traverse over ranked Point 13,248 (#441), unranked Point 13,373 and ranked Point 13,831, also known as Holy Cross Ridge, Colorado's 91st highest summit. Descend to the 13,500' saddle then climb the final half mile to Holy Cross's summit just barely over 14,000'. You can return over Halo Ridge or some people choose to return via the standard North Ridge. There are advantages to either option. If you return over Halo Ridge you will not have as much total vertical gain, even though you have to re-summit all three 13ers along the ridge. If you descend the North Ridge the journey is shorter and you are exposed above 13,000 feet for a shorter amount of time. It is NOT RECOMMENDED to attempt to bypass any summit along Halo Ridge in an effort to save elevation gain. Many of these summits are cliffed out and people have gotten into trouble trying to do this!

3. Angelica

 Angelica is the couloir on the right side that  has barely any snow left.

This great snow climb is not nearly as famous as the Cross Couloir, but it is still good and often has snow later than the Cross Couloir providing a good alternative. It is not as long as the cross nor as complicated and technical but is similar in terms of steepness. Follow the standard North Ridge route over Half Moon Pass and down into the East Cross Creek basin. Cross the creek and leave the main trail at some campsites near the creek crossing. Pick your way through the forest, possibly doing some boulder hopping, and find a vague climber's trail. It becomes more distinct. Follow it as wind winds through some boulderfields on the west side of the creek for at least a mile until it flattens out at 11,500'. Hike across the bench west of Lake Patricia. Instead of following the draining basin towards the Bowl of Tears, head instead towards the obvious North Face. Climb steepening snow angling toward the west side of the face until you reach a prominent and obvious Y. Take the left branch and climb an excellent inset couloir to a notch at 13,700' where you rejoin the North Ridge route. From here it is a short class 2 jaunt to the summit.

4. Cross Couloir
This route is famous because it climbs Holy Cross's famous feature. For mountaineers it is a coveted snow climb and one of the most classic alpine routes in the Sawatch Range. It is also a coveted ski descent and many expert backcountry skiiers lust for this committing challenge. Start as for Angelica. Follow this route all the way to 11,500' at the bench with Lake Patricia. Instead of turning and taking on Holy Cross's North Face, follow the climber's trail into a boulderfield up the roughening basin until you reach the Bowl of Tears at 12,000'. The approach is over. Angle up the slopes starting left (south) of the couloir aiming right to bypass a cliff system at the bottom of the cross. You enter the couloir at 12,800'. Now for the business. First consider the avalanche potential, knowing that a gnarly cliff you wouldn't want to get swept over sits at the bottom of this committing couloir. Falling, for that matter, as either a skiier or a mountaineer is ill advised on this part of the route. Climb the couloir for over 1,000 feet. There is a possibility of resting on the cross ledge at 3/4 height depending on snow conditions. After a tough climb, the top will be a welcome treat. Either carefully ski down, or descend the North Ridge.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS

Mount of the Holy Cross is in the Holy Cross Wilderness area and special regulations apply. You must register at the trailhead and carry a permit with you that has a list of all the regulations. One of which is that fires are not allowed in the wilderness area. Please respect this rule and read and abide all of the other rules carefully. They are there for the greater good, so breaking these rules is not a strike against the government but a strike against all of us who want to enjoy this place for years to come.

For some reason, Holy Cross has attracted inordinate numbers of accidents, tragedies and near misses over the years. As as result it has earned a reputation even among the non-climbing community. While many if not most 14ers have had tragic accidents involving mountaineers, for some reason people seem to remember the ones that occurred on Holy Cross more than any other. I have even heard the Holy Cross Wilderness dubbed the "Bermuda Triangle" of Colorado's backcountry. Much of this reputation, it seems to me, stems from one particularly disturbing accident that occurred a few years back when a woman separated from her climbing partner at around 13,800' on the Halo route with plans to quickly re-unite but, despite a lengthy search involving hundreds of people, was never seen again. There is no space here on this webpage to get into theories about what exactly happened in this particular instance, that discussion has occurred elsewhere and is not my goal now. It is, however, good to take this terrible tragedy--and others that have occurred on this mountain--and learn the lessons that they might teach. However, I have been back into the region a couple times now, and I have some ideas about why more people have trouble here than in other Colorado wilderness areas. 

The first problem is one of numbers. The fame of Holy Cross draws a fair number of annual visitors, and although crowds have become the norm on almost all 14ers in Colorado, Holy Cross for whatever reason seems to attract an even less experienced and less prepared demographic. Throw these large numbers of ill-prepared mountaineers into an environment with some of the particular objective hazards that I discuss below and the result is what you see today with Holy Cross's reputation.

Another hazard is the treacherous, bouldery, and cliffed-out terrain. The Holy Cross Wilderness, particularly the area immediately surrounding the mountain proper, is rough and uneven. It is filled with large glaciated boulders and cliffs of all sizes. This is a very rugged place. While some of the big cliffs are obvious, there are numerous small cliffs many of which are hidden among thick trees and brush. It would be easy to slip scrambling here and become injured. I could also see how it might be very difficult to find someone who had fallen into a crevice or something like that in between boulders.

The Holy Cross Wilderness is an amazing place, and I don't think anybody should be deterred from venturing into it by grim warnings and dark stories. It is smart for everyone, however (and I would probably say this about any backcountry), to always remember the essentials: map, compass, proper clothing, extra food, rudimentary medical supplies, etc, and to use extra caution and common sense when venturing into a place with proven and serial objective hazards.

Gerry Roach, in his book Colorado Fourteeners 3rd Edition, examines the case of the vanished mountaineer as well as his theory about Holy Cross's unique dangers in depth. It is a useful and informative article for anyone venturing into the area. The book itself is the bible to Colorado's 14ers in my opinion and a great place to start for anyone who is just becoming curious about the great peaks of this state.

STANDARD ROUTE (NORTH RIDGE)

Length: 11 miles (roundtrip)
Total Elevation gain: 5,800'
trail access: Half Moon Trail

The North Ridge of Holy Cross is one of Colorado's best class 2 adventures. It is an amazing and challenging climb that takes you to Colorado's hallowed places. The length and total elevation required for this climb necessitate a two-day outing for many people. This might be advised for anyone whose conditioning might not be up for a one-day approach. That trade off, however, is that you will have to lug a heavy backpack over Half Moon Pass twice. Is it easier? The more environmentally conscience choice is to minimize your impact by climbing Holy Cross in one day. However, this is a place that deserves a slow, contemplative pace. I recommend a backpack of at least two days. Three might be preferable. Take your time and enjoy this place. Please minimize your impact by adhering to No Trace Wilderness ethic.

From Half Moon Trailhead, follow Half Moon Trail for 2 miles to Half Moon Pass at 11,600'. On my last trip, I discovered crossing this pass can be exciting in an afternoon thunderstorm. After summitting Half Moon Pass, descend gradually at first towards East Cross Creek. You will soon get your first views of the North Face of Holy Cross, an impressive sight. Soon the trail starts to descend more steeply and you round a corner and get an amazing view of the mountain and the East Cross Creek Basin, complete with steep granite walls on the basin's north flank, the mountain to the south, and a tallish waterfall in the center. You know now if you didn't before that this is a special place. Descend another 900 feet into the creek basin where some very nice campsites exist near the creek. Stay in one of the numbered campsites to minimize impact. You can be ticketed by rangers for camping elsewhere. Not only is it a legal issue anyway, it is environmental, so please respect this.

The Gore Range in the distance from the North Ridge

Cross East Cross Creek at a makeshift rock bridge and follow the trail as it winds up the northern slopes into the high alpine zone. At around 11,500' you will cross treeline. A bit later you will get your first glimpse of the mountain, much closer and even more imposing now. Follow the trail as the ridge tightens to a prominent notch at 13,700'. you can peer down an inset couloir, which is impressive whether it has snow or not. This is the top of Angelica. From here the trail gets rougher. Pick your way through class 2 to 2+ terrain to an impressive summit.

Do not get lost on the descent! Remember the route. Going too far west or north can pull you into the Cross Creek drainage (not the East Cross Creek drainage where you want to be.) While there are trails there, they will take you very far away from your vehicle. Also don't forget you have to go up and over (1,000') Half Moon Pass on the way out. As aforementioned  this can be exciting if the afternoon storms are rolling in and exhausting anytime after a long climb of Holy Cross.

TRIP REPORTS

Angels and Demons- The Two Faces of Mount of the Holy Cross
An article examining the profound beauty of Holy Cross and its surrounding territory as well as the unique objective dangers it boasts. Also included: a brief look at the mysterious disappearance of Michelle Vanek in 2005 and other accidents related to this area.

Longs, Holy Cross & McGregor Mountain (July 2012)
A week in July and a successful climb of the Left Side of McGregor Peak, right variation (II 5.8 R), the North Face of Longs Peak (II 5.4), and a two backpack and ascent of the standard route of Holy Cross.

Frustration in Paradise (July 2010)
Just because you don't make the summit doesn't always mean you "failed". This is an account of a really amazing trip in which we, unfortunately, did not make the summit.

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
For information about how to contact us, visit this link