Peak of the Week: Mt. Harvard (14,420')

INTRO

Harvard at the head of the Horn Fork Basin

At 14,420', Mt. Harvard is the third highest peak in Colorado and one of the most beautiful and rugged high peaks in the Sawatch Range. Linked with Columbia Peak via a long, serpentine ridgeline, these two impressive mountains form a commanding and inspiring basin.

While Mt. Harvard is one of the highest peaks in the state, like Elbert and Massive it requires little technical skill to climb other than a sturdy pair of legs and some grit to log the requisite miles. The standard climb on Harvard is a lengthy slog of some 14 miles and gains over 5,000', making it one of the more endurance-dependent 14ers.

Another salient feature on the Harvard-Columbia massif is the rugged connecting ridge between the two peaks. This serrated ridgeline can be skirted down low for those that want to climb both peaks in a day without the necessity of tackling the ridge proper, but taking on the true ridge provides a unique opportunity to experience of the most rugged and technical lines in the Sawatch Range.

DIRECTIONS
From nearby Buena Vista, find Crossman Ave in the heart of town and turn west (towards the mountains. After two miles, turn right onto CR 361 at a T intersection. Follow this for a mile to another T and follow signs onto CR 365 toward North Cottonwood Creek. Follow this for several miles on a dirt road (passable by passenger vehicles) to the trailhead just under 10,000'.

ROUTES
South Slopes (class 2)

Lake in the Horn Fork Basin while climbing Harvard

This classic route is the standard and easiest way to climb Harvard. It is long and scenic and one of the more enjoyable romps in the Sawatch Range. Some people chose to climb the mountain in a day, but at 14 miles turning it into a short backpack can be a great way to extend your time in the beautiful area and break the route down into more manageable lengths. Making a joint trip with Columbia can make the effort required for a backpack more worth it.

This route is fairly straightforward and follows a consistent trail all the way to the summit. There is a bit of a steep summit cap at the very top that may entail very short bits of scrambling. Otherwise this route is mostly class 1.

Harvard-Columbia Traverse (class 2)
The arduous slog is long and includes over 6,000 feet of vertical gain. You can do the climb either way but it seems the preferred route is to climb Harvard first and descend the shorter route off Columbia late in the day. Remember that this complicated ridge takes time and you must descend far below the actual ridgeline to keep the difficulty at class 2, which adds to the effort but minimizes the exposure.

"The Rabbits" traverse (13.5 miles; 5,600' elevation gain; class 5.7)

Pinnacles on the connecting ridge with Harvard

This is the direct traverse between Harvard and Columbia. It requires some hard, exposed scrambling and one short pitch of 5.7 climbing. If you are doing the traverse from Harvard to Columbia you can rappel this pitch. It is described here from Columbia to Harvard. Follow the West Slopes of Columbia route to its summit. Descend northwest along the ridge proper. Climb or traverse around Point 13,497 with some hard scrambling. Reach a notch at the base of the Rabbits and climb the short, crux 5.7 pitch to the ridge's east side. Scramble around  the remaining pinnacles on the east side and arrive at the 13,100' saddle between the two mountains. After climbing Point 13,516 you reach Harvard East Ridge. Follow this route to the summit.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
Mt. Harvard lies in the Collegiate Peaks wilderness and wilderness rules and ethics apply. Remember that all routes on Harvard require a bit more effort than many other 14ers and rescues have had to be undertaken on this mountain due to overexertion.

LINKS
Mountain Profile: Mt. Columbia

Summitpost page on Mt. Harvard

14ers.com on Harvard

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Summary and Analysis of 2016 Mountaineering Deaths in Colorado

Why do we take such risks to climb in Colorado's mountains? It is a question non-climbing friends inevitably ask me every time news circulates of another accident or death in the Colorado mountains. Why would I put my life in jeopardy just for the thrill of a summit? They say it is selfish to the ones I love back home to risk so much just for my own gratification. Some even say it is stupid. The answer is not always easy.

Screenshot from a video showing a rescue on North Maroon in 2013

Life is full of risk. And without risk there is no reward. Climbing enhances my life, it is one of the things that helps remind me of why life is worth living in the first place. I don't climb with a death wish, and I always have full confidence I will return to the trailhead alive. I strive to make the best decisions and minimize the dangers of any particular climb. And now, as I have grown a bit older and have more responsibility I have found myself slightly less willing to accept those risks.

Still, however, the world isn't safe. Climbing and mountaineering is full of hazards, both objective and subjective. This can go wrong in an instant. A rock can break, the hills can slide, and, yes, I can make a terribly bad decision. But the same is true while driving on the highway: an errant driver can steer my direction, a patch of unseen ice can appear seemingly from nowhere, or I can take my eyes off the road for a fateful second to fiddle with the radio. Does that mean I should never drive? Does that mean I should never climb?

With record numbers of people venturing into Colorado's mountains, the number who don't make it back is statistically quite small. It shows that most people are careful and smart about their time in the mountains. And even those that aren't seem remarkably lucky. For those that don't come back, there are always lessons to be learned for the rest of us, and those lessons can, hopefully, prevent a future tragedy from taking place.

The following is a list of people who died climbing Colorado's mountains in 2016. Though I did my best to research this grim topic, the list may not be complete. I apologize to the memories of anyone I may have missed. And if anyone knows of other incidents, I would add them in the hopes that we can learn what lessons we can for next season. As always you may email me with concerns at Coloradomountaineering2010@gmail.com I will do my best to reply.

SUMMARY OF MOUNTAINEERING DEATHS IN COLORADO DURING 2016

January 19- Ron Webber, a 58-year-old man from Florida died while on a "mountaineering trek" near Chasm Lake at the base of Longs Peak after a fall of nearly 200 feet. It is unclear if Webber was attempting to climb the mountain or merely out for a hike. Webber had visited Longs Peak before, though never in the winter. Little is known about the specifics of this tragedy as he was climbing alone and did not leave any information behind.

The Maroon Bells as seen from Pyramid Peak. The
"Deadly Bells" have been the sight of many deaths and
rescues over the years, including two more in 2016

July 10- Stephen Hunt, a 55-year-old man from Parker, Colorado, died after falling on Crestone Needle. Hunt was a highly experienced mountaineer who had climbed all of Colorado's 14ers (some several times) and was actively working on the "Centennial" list, Colorado's 100 highest peaks. Crestone Needle is considered by many to be one of Colorado's most difficult 14ers.

August 3- James Beckerich, a 70-year old man from Pennsylvania, died from a fall while descending from a failed attempt to climb 13,554-foot Fluted Peak in the Sangre De Cristo Mountains. Beckerich was an experienced mountaineer who had been a part of failed Everest and Aconcagua expeditions and was training for a climb in Washington State. He had previously summitted many prestigious mountains.

August 24- Eric Poehlman, a 46 year-old man from Vermont, died near the summit of Mt. Harvard of a heart attack. This is not an accident per se but an example of how the added pressures of altitude and exertion can exacerbate pre-existing health conditions that you may or may not know are present. He was an experienced 14er climber who had summitted 47 of Colorado's highest mountains.

September 7- Steve Sprowles, a 68-year-old man from Conifer, Colorado, died after a fall on North Maroon Peak. The Maroon Bells have earned their nickname "The Deadly Bells" and it seems at least one death occurs there every year. The rock is very loose and steep and their beauty makes them a popular destination for aspiring summitters, some of whom misjudge the objective dangers posed by these dramatic peaks.

September 20- Dave Cook, a 49-year-old man from New Mexico disappeared while attempting to complete the notoriously dangerous Maroon Peak-North Maroon Peak traverse. It is possible he was also trying to add Pyramid Peak as well. This disturbing incident is particularly troublesome because Cook has never been located. It is difficult to know exactly what happened to him. The Bells Traverse is a very difficult and treacherous route and Pyramid Peak is almost as dangerous. Attempting these mountains alone adds to the risk of such an endeavor. Dave's family has created a facebook page for anyone that might possibly have knowledge of his whereabouts.

October 1- Scott Corliss, a 61-year-old physician from Greeley, Colorado, died after a fall on the Narrows section of the popular Keyhole Route of Longs Peak. The conditions on this day were reported as icy. This section of the highly popular route is quite exposed and has been the site of at least five deaths over the years according to a post on Alan Arnette's website covering this incident.

CONCLUSIONS:

Walking the infamous Knife Edge on Capitol Peak, a peak
that has caused a number of fatalities over the years

It is hard to know what to conclude from the seven deaths reported above. One thing that jumps out at me immediately is that all of the deaths were men over the age of 46 years old. But what do we do with this? Is it just a reflection of the demographic that climbs mountains in Colorado? Does it illuminate the risk-taking nature of men as opposed to women? Or is it just a statistical anomaly?

It is also worth noting that three of the seven victims were from Colorado and the other four were from out of state and that six of the seven occurred on or near 14ers. These stats illuminate the growing popularity of "ticking off" Colorado's highest peaks not just with locals but people from out of state as well. Several of the climbers listed above were also highly experienced, which shows how it is not just the foolish or the inexperienced that get into trouble in the mountains.

In the end, we each choose to venture into the mountains full-knowing the risks that we are taking. The high places of the world are not meant for human habitation. Gravity pulls strongly from the steep, broken slopes of these majestic mountains. We learn what we can from accidents of the past and continue to venture forth in the aim of self-enhancement. It is up to us to determine if that hope is worth the level of risk we assume.

Stay safe out there!

RELATED STORIES
-Statistical Analysis of 14er Deaths in Colorado This Decade

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Follow us on Twitter!
Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link