UPDATED: Stats and Analysis of 14er Deaths This Decade (2010-2017)

The blossoming popularity of hiking and climbing on Colorado's 14ers has also brought an increase in accidents on these peaks. This article is an attempt to analyze the statistics from these terrible incidents and (hopefully) discover some useful conclusions to prevent such tragedies from occurring again in the future.

The Elk Range, statistically one of the most dangerous
ranges in the state

While every effort has been made to ensure that the data is complete, it is quite possible that some or several accidents have been overlooked. Every year there are accidents that go unreported and sifting through the barrage of information on the internet is not easy, especially regarding events that may have occurred several years ago. Still, this information can prove a useful tool in keeping all of who venture into the highest places of  this amazing state safe.

UPDATED

This article was originally published 1/3/17 but has been updated to include data from the tragic 2017 season.

STATS AT A GLANCE

Total deaths on Colorado 14ers (2010-2017): 57

Deaths by mountain: Longs Peak (9), Maroon Bells (9), Capitol (7), Crestone Needle (5), Crestone Peak (3), Kit Carson (3),  Snowmass Mountain (2), El Diente (2), Harvard (2), Evans (2), Missouri (2), Torreys (2), Princeton (2), Quandary (1), Windom (1), Antero (1),  Little Bear (1), Yale (1), Blanca (1), Challenger Point (1)

Deaths by gender: M (50), F (7)

Deaths by age range: >20 (2), 20-29 (16), 30-39 (16), 40-49 (6), 50-59 (13), 60 or over (5)

14er deaths by mountain range: Elk Range (18), Sangre De Cristo (14), Front Range (13),   Sawatch Range (8), San Juan Range (3), Tenmile-Mosquito Range (1)

Deaths by Cause: fall (38), falling rocks (5), avalanche (3), heart attack (2), lightning (1), unclear (8)

Deaths by Year: 2010 (10), 2011 (10), 2012 (6), 2013 (5), 2014 (6), 2015 (4), 2016 (5), 2017 (11)

(Note: I have combined the Maroon Bells in the above list due to the number of accidents that occurred on the traverse between them making it hard to attribute these deaths to one or the other of these peaks) 

ANALYSIS/CONCLUSIONS

There are a few glaring details from the above statistics that are immediately apparent. For one, more than half of these deaths (33) occurred on only six mountains (Longs Peak, the Maroon Bells, Capitol Peak, and the Crestones). While none of these should really come as a surprise, it is interesting to see just how concentrated this list is. Longs Peak attracts a high number of accidents (almost all of which occurred on the standard Keyhole Route) because it's steep and exposed from every approach. On the Crestones, it is noteworthy that half of the eight deaths between the two of them occurred on Crestone Needle's Ellingwood Arete, a technical (5.7) multipitch climb, and only three fatal accidents have occurred on their standard routes. Per capita, the Deadly Bells lead for the dubious prize so far this decade as the most dangerous 14ers by their easiest lines. It doesn't take a Nobel Prize winner to understand why: these stunning peaks maybe be beautiful but their rock is far from it.

In 2017 Capitol Peak gained notoriety when five people died on its slopes. Three of these five victims died as a result of selecting the incorrect descent route. The so-dubbed "Death Gully" has lured people in the past due to its innocuous appearance from above and people's fear of crossing the Knife Edge on the return journey. It is imperative for aspiring climbers of Capitol Peak to understand THERE IS NO EASIER WAY to climb this mountain than the standard route. If there was an easier route, that would be the standard route! 

Another glaring and thought-provoking statistic is the ratio of males to females that have died on Colorado 14ers. A staggering 88% of the 14er fatalities this decade were males. From an analytical standpoint it is hard to say whether this reflects the numbers of males attempting 14ers over the numbers of females or some other factor (i.e. male tendency towards risk-taking, etc.)

It is also quite clear that the 14ers of the Sangre De Cristo and Elk Ranges are the deadliest. While the Front Range is tied with the Sangres for most fatal accidents total, this stat is skewed by the sheer number of attempts, as the Front Range 14ers (particularly Longs) are some of the state's most popular.

Analyzing the cause of death was somewhat challenging. Some of the information listed multiple causes, i.e. a falling rock strikes a climber causing them to lose their grip and fall. This sort of accident makes it difficult to categorize the accident. With other accidents vague reporting (often by reporters who have little or no mountaineering experience) made determining the actual cause of death very difficult. One thing is clear, however, is that the majority of 14er deaths involved a fatal fall on a mountain. The cause of these falls, however, is vitally important and sometimes difficult to say. My guess is that most occur due to breaking hand or footholds. The other leading causes of accidents are rockfalls/landslides and avalanches.

SOME SURPRISES

Capitol Peak has been site of seven fatal accidents
so far this decade, including five in 2017 alone

What can also be useful from a data set like this is considering not just what is there but what is not. For example, neither Sunlight Peak, Wilson Peak, nor Pyramid Peak appear on this list. These three mountains are oft-touted as some of the hardest/most dangerous in the state yet nobody has died on any of them so far this decade. Also, there was only one death on Little Bear, another peak that is often regarded as the most dangerous of all the 14ers. In all these instances, however, these low numbers could be the product of much fewer numbers of attempts.

The San Juans. A beautiful range with a large number of rugged 14ers notorious for crumbly rock, yet we only see three deaths from this range. This again, could partially be a product of their distance from the populous cities of the Front Range, and therefore enjoy a proportionally smaller number of attempts. Or maybe the San Juans are not as fierce or chossy as their reputation makes out.

HOW TO AVOID AN ACCIDENT

Statistically speaking, there are a couple of easy things you can do to virtually eliminate your odds of ending up on a list like this in the future:

1) If your main goal in Colorado mountaineering is simply not to die, then do NOT climb the Maroon Bells, Capitol Peak, Longs Peak, or the Crestones. Again, over half of the fatal accidents this decade have occurred on these six peaks. Of course, many people simply cannot put their backs to the siren call of these dangerous peaks. For those, perhaps extra care should be taken to exercise the greatest possible caution: climb in good weather, wear a helmet, start early, avoid crowds, and tread lightly!

2) Be a woman. Apparently simply being a woman slices your chances of dying on a 14er considerably. However, I have not been able to find reliable stats on the ratio of female to male climbers attempting 14ers, or even better, starting out on individual peaks, so it is hard to know a woman's odds of dying are actually slimmer or if the difference is merely proportional.

3) Avoid falling. Of course this is always the goal, but most of the fatal accidents on 14ers involved the victim falling. From my experience reading about these accidents, breaking/crumbling hand or footholds is almost always the cause of falling related accidents. Maintain three points of contact on the difficult sections of steep mountains at all times, carefully test hold before weighting them, and rope up if it is safe and practical (which, unfortunately, is often not possible on the loose rock of some of Colorado's most dangerous mountains).

FINAL THOUGHTS

Though many of us like to say we "live" for the mountains, probably none of us wants to die there before our time. We accept a certain degree of risk knowing risk is the only path to reward. These 46 deaths are all tragic. The widespread consequences of losing even one life can ripple out and touch so many. But compared to the tens (perhaps hundreds) of thousands of people that attempted Colorado's 14ers this decade, 45 deaths is a very small percentage. We all venture to these high places knowing what risks we take and the potential consequences of our actions. We are willing to accept these calculated risks because it is only in the mountains that we truly feel alive.

RELATED POSTS

-2016 mountaineering deaths in Colorado

-Climber dies on Thunder Pyramid

-Climber dies on Maroon Peak

-Climber Dies on Capitol Peak

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Peak of the Week: Mt. Harvard (14,420')

INTRO

Harvard at the head of the Horn Fork Basin

At 14,420', Mt. Harvard is the third highest peak in Colorado and one of the most beautiful and rugged high peaks in the Sawatch Range. Linked with Columbia Peak via a long, serpentine ridgeline, these two impressive mountains form a commanding and inspiring basin.

While Mt. Harvard is one of the highest peaks in the state, like Elbert and Massive it requires little technical skill to climb other than a sturdy pair of legs and some grit to log the requisite miles. The standard climb on Harvard is a lengthy slog of some 14 miles and gains over 5,000', making it one of the more endurance-dependent 14ers.

Another salient feature on the Harvard-Columbia massif is the rugged connecting ridge between the two peaks. This serrated ridgeline can be skirted down low for those that want to climb both peaks in a day without the necessity of tackling the ridge proper, but taking on the true ridge provides a unique opportunity to experience of the most rugged and technical lines in the Sawatch Range.

DIRECTIONS
From nearby Buena Vista, find Crossman Ave in the heart of town and turn west (towards the mountains. After two miles, turn right onto CR 361 at a T intersection. Follow this for a mile to another T and follow signs onto CR 365 toward North Cottonwood Creek. Follow this for several miles on a dirt road (passable by passenger vehicles) to the trailhead just under 10,000'.

ROUTES
South Slopes (class 2)

Lake in the Horn Fork Basin while climbing Harvard

This classic route is the standard and easiest way to climb Harvard. It is long and scenic and one of the more enjoyable romps in the Sawatch Range. Some people chose to climb the mountain in a day, but at 14 miles turning it into a short backpack can be a great way to extend your time in the beautiful area and break the route down into more manageable lengths. Making a joint trip with Columbia can make the effort required for a backpack more worth it.

This route is fairly straightforward and follows a consistent trail all the way to the summit. There is a bit of a steep summit cap at the very top that may entail very short bits of scrambling. Otherwise this route is mostly class 1.

Harvard-Columbia Traverse (class 2)
The arduous slog is long and includes over 6,000 feet of vertical gain. You can do the climb either way but it seems the preferred route is to climb Harvard first and descend the shorter route off Columbia late in the day. Remember that this complicated ridge takes time and you must descend far below the actual ridgeline to keep the difficulty at class 2, which adds to the effort but minimizes the exposure.

"The Rabbits" traverse (13.5 miles; 5,600' elevation gain; class 5.7)

Pinnacles on the connecting ridge with Harvard

This is the direct traverse between Harvard and Columbia. It requires some hard, exposed scrambling and one short pitch of 5.7 climbing. If you are doing the traverse from Harvard to Columbia you can rappel this pitch. It is described here from Columbia to Harvard. Follow the West Slopes of Columbia route to its summit. Descend northwest along the ridge proper. Climb or traverse around Point 13,497 with some hard scrambling. Reach a notch at the base of the Rabbits and climb the short, crux 5.7 pitch to the ridge's east side. Scramble around  the remaining pinnacles on the east side and arrive at the 13,100' saddle between the two mountains. After climbing Point 13,516 you reach Harvard East Ridge. Follow this route to the summit.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
Mt. Harvard lies in the Collegiate Peaks wilderness and wilderness rules and ethics apply. Remember that all routes on Harvard require a bit more effort than many other 14ers and rescues have had to be undertaken on this mountain due to overexertion.

LINKS
Mountain Profile: Mt. Columbia

Summitpost page on Mt. Harvard

14ers.com on Harvard

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Top 8 Least Busy 14ers in Colorado

The companion piece to last week's Top 8 Busiest 14ers post, this article takes data from the same sources (ListsofJohn.com, 14ers.com, and Summitpost.org) and approximates the least busy 14ers in Colorado.

Capitol Peak in the distance from Snowmass Mtn, number
six on this list

Anybody who has climbed a 14er in the last 10 years knows they are popular, and getting more so all the time as "ticking" them off becomes more and more trendy. So which mountains see the least action? Which are you most likely to find some semblance of solitude?

Methodology

As with the "busiest 14ers" article, we took the summit logs and reported ascents from three popular mountaineering websites and gave each a score, 1 being the least number of reports, 2 the second least and so on. We averaged those scores to create an approximation of which peaks are the least busy of the 14ers.

Possibility for Error

It is important to note that the only way to know for sure how many people actually climb these peaks would be to count every single person who climbs every single peak on every single day. This, of course, is nearly impossible. There are many ways the data here could be skewed, including bias tilted towards which mountaineers are likely to sign up and report ascents on these three websites, as well as factors such as repeat ascents and others. Regardless, we feel this list gives a good estimation of which Colorado 14ers see the least amount of traffic.

If You Really Want Solitude

If solitude is your thing, we suggest NOT climbing the 14ers. Period. Or perhaps, climbing them in the off season, like the dead of winter. Sure they are great mountains, and climbing them gives you a certain amount of clout in social circles, but if your main goal is to climb great peaks with a sense of adventure, a wilderness experience, and enjoy solitude, we suggest aiming for 13ers and 12ers. In many cases, the climbing on these peaks is just as good, arguably better, and you still get the same satisfaction that climbing any high mountain can provide.

All of that being said, here are the eight least busy 14ers according to our calculations:

1. Culebra Peak

It was no surprise that the only 14er that you must pay heavily to climb had the fewest reports of people climbing it. I have never climbed Culebra, and though I have climbed almost all of the 14ers I have no plans to do so in the immediate future. Were it of outstanding aesthetic value, not merely average as most seem to consider it, perhaps Culebra would see more use.

2. Mount Wilson

This was a bit of a surprise. Clearly there is a direct correlation between a mountain's difficulty and its relative popularity, but to see Mt. Wilson land all the way at number 2 was more than expected. Mount Wilson is Colorado's 16th highest peak. It is highly prominent and has a stunning and highly visible position relative to the popular mountain town of Telluride. All of this, however, apparently is outweighed by its long standard route, class 4 difficulty and distance from Front Range cities.

3. Little Bear

Little Bear is oft-touted as Colorado's most dangerous, if not most difficult, 14er, therefore it came as no surprise  that it landed in the top 3. I know several people that put off Little Bear until they had just a few 14ers left before completion. Add in its distance from Front Range big cities, and the reason for its relative inactivity makes sense.

4. Mount Eolus

Eolus is a hard peak to get to and somewhat more difficult than most by its standard route (class 3). And frankly, it is not very famous. I've known some people who are fairly acquainted with Colorado's backcountry that are not even aware of a 14er that goes by that strange name, Eolus.

5. Wilson Peak

The Wilson group apparently are not very busy. The reason Wilson Peak is slightly busier than Mount Wilson is probably due to its shorter and technically easier standard route. Still, however, this little corner of Colorado magnificence is significantly less crowded than other comparable destinations.

6. Snowmass Mountain

Snowmass Mountain is long, scrambly, far from Denver, and relatively low in stature for a 14er (ranked #31). We saw these factors repeating over and over while comprising this list and thus it is no surprise that Snowmass Mountain landed at #6.

The backside of the Maroon Bells from Frigid Air Pass

7. Sunlight Peak

The Chicago Basin 14ers are difficult to get to, and very far from Denver. The fame (or infamy) of Sunlight Peak's summit cap, however, may be the reason why it sees slightly more ascents than neighboring Eolus.

8. Maroon Peak

Maroon Peak is perhaps Colorado's most photographed mountain. It is a stunning and famous peak. It is also one of Colorado's most dangerous. Over half of all deaths reported on Colorado's 14ers so far this decade occurred on the Maroon Bells, the Crestones, and Longs Peak. Despite its fame, Maroon Peak apparently does not see near as much traffic as other 14ers.

Honorable Mentions

Capitol Peak, Ellingwood Point, Windom, and Pyramid Peak were all next up if we extended this list past eight. Also North Maroon, North Eolus, and El Diente would have made the top 8, but we did not include any "unranked" peaks that didn't have at least 300 feet of topographical prominence.

Analysis

There were a few surprises when the data was finally crunched to create this list. Some of these peaks, like the Maroon Bells, are quite famous, and  thus seem more popular than they are. If we were to create a list of most pageviews or photographs on these websites, a whole different set of mountains would have emerged. But popularity in terms of mythical status and internet fame did not equate to reported ascents. What wasn't surprising was that Culebra topped the list. There's one way to reduce a peak's use: charge $150 to climb it. It is also not surprising that some of the state's hardest peaks are the least busy: Sunlight, Mt. Wilson, Maroon Peak, Little Bear. And if we rounded out the list to 15, we would also have seen Pyramid Peak, Capitol Peak and both Crestones. In fact, all of these mountains here (except Culebra) are at least class 3 by their standard routes. Distance from Denver was also a clear factor, as every mountain in the top 8 is from the Sangre De Cristo, Elk and San Juan ranges. 

An interesting note that reinforced just how busy even these least popular 14ers are, Colorado's highest 13er, Grizzly Peak (which was once considered a 14er until a better survey proved otherwise) would have easily topped this list. In fact, even among the busiest 13ers we could think of (Silverheels, Meeker, Mt. Sheridan, etc.) we weren't able to find any with more reported ascents than Culebra.

Enjoy these peaks. Climb them, take care of them, but even on these mountains don't expect solitude on a summer weekend.

RELATED ARTICLES
-Ten Mountains You Probably Haven't Climbed But Should
-14ers the Hard Way
-Top 8 Busiest 14ers
-14ers are Dead

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Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

Top 8 Busiest Colorado Peaks

Morning light on Mt. Elbert

The mountains of Colorado have become crowded. Hell, Colorado as a state has become crowded. Everyone who's tried to climb a mountain here (especially the really popular ones like Longs or Elbert) has seen just how busy they can be. Trains of humanoids zig-zagging up the mountainsides by the hundreds have become a common sight. On a busy weekend, these peaks more resemble an amusement park than a wilderness adventure. 

But just which peaks are the busiest of all? While there are no stats that tell us 100% accurately how many people attempt these peaks in a given year, we have used data from several popular websites to make our best guess.

Methodology

To create this list, we used the ticklist or summit log data from three popular mountaineering websites: listsofjohn.com, 14ers.com and Summitpost.org to create a score for each mountain based on the number of people reporting ascents of each of Colorado's 14ers. We then averaged the scores together (weighing all three websites equally) to come up with an aggregate rating which we hope indicates which peaks are the busiest.

Possibilities for Error

There are several ways in which error could be introduced with this method. For example, all three of these websites are more likely to attract mountaineering enthusiasts (people so heavily engaged in the sport they are willing to not only register for such a site but actually log their ascents), thus eliminating "casual" climbers who might be drawn to certain types of mountains, like Mount Elbert (since it is the highest point in Colorado) and Longs Peak (since it is close to Denver and located in Rocky Mountain National Park). This could potentially skew the data.

Another possible error could lie in the relative "power" of each peak. In other words, people might be more likely to report and ascent of Mount Elbert, since it is the state high point, than they are of Quandary Peak, which does not carry the same clout, resulting in under-reporting of mountains that are viewed as less interesting. Repeat ascents are also not likely to be accurately accounted for since, while all three of these websites (I believe) allow you to report repeats, most likely people are far less willing to do so.

Anyway, without further ado, here is our list of the eight busiest peaks in the state of Colorado.

Near the summit of Quandary in the snow

1. Grays Peak

It is not really a surprise that Grays Peak tops this list. With its convenient I-70 access, it relative proximity to the large Front Range cities, and its "easy" standard route, Grays Peak is about as user friendly of a 14er as there is.

2. Mount Elbert

Since Elbert is the highest peak in the state, and its standard route requires little more than a sturdy pair of legs to climb, it makes sense that it would land near the top. However, I suspect the data is skewed in Elbert's favor due to its stature and the fact that people would be more likely to report ascents of Elbert as compared to other, less famous peaks.

3. Quandary Peak and Mount Bierstadt (tie)

These two Front Range peaks came out tied in overall aggregate score. Both peaks are conveniently accessible to the Front Range big cities, and both have somewhat abbreviated routes on well-beaten trails to their summits. It is no wonder that they both two of Colorado's busiest mountains.

5. Torreys Peak

As the companion summit of Grays Peak, the inclusion of Torreys is no surprise. Since many climb these two peaks together, the difference between them is likely a result of the standard route on Grays Peak being just that much easier than Torreys, leading to a number of people making the summit of Grays but electing to turn around and not complete the route to the top of its neighbor.

6. Mount Democrat

As the first peak reached in the standard DeCaliBron (Democrat/Cameron/Lincoln/Bross) loop, Mt. Democrat is an obvious addition to this list. As with Grays, that it places higher than Lincoln, Cameron or Bross is indicative of the fact that it is usually the first of the 4-mountain loop to be climbed and not everyone is successful in completing the tour.

7. Mount Lincoln

Since we did not count Cameron (it is not a "ranked" peak) Mount Lincoln is the second peak of the Decalibron and it makes sense that it would score just a hair lower than Democrat on the aggregate rank. 

8. Longs Peak

The North Face of Longs Peak from the Boulderfield

I was surprised not to see Longs higher on this list. The immense popularity of the Keyhole Route always seemed a cut above the others. However, it is a more difficult mountain, and more dangerous than any of the others on the list. In addition, one has to wonder how many of the people who climb this mountain fall into the aforementioned "casual" hiker group and were drawn to this peak due to its position within Rocky Mountain National Park but were not likely to register for one of the three websites used for our raw data.

Honorable Mentions
The following peaks nearly made the list: Evans, Pikes, Sherman, Bross and Massive.

So which peak was the least popular? While a "Top 8 Least Popular 14ers" may make an interesting topic for another post, it appears that (we didn't run the bottom peaks through the same number crunch) the least busy 14er in Colorado is the only one you have to pay an exorbitant fee to climb: Culebra.  

Popular or not, these mountains represent some of the most beautiful high peaks in the state and are all worthy to climb despite the crowds. Hike them, enjoy them, take care of them. Just don't go up there expecting privacy....

RELATED POSTS
-The Ranked 14ers
-10 Mountains You Probably Haven't Climbed But Should
-14ers the Hard Way
-10 Class 3 Colorado Mountaineering Classics
-10 Class 5 Colorado Mountaineering Classics

Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
For information about how to contact us, visit this link

The Four Sacred Peaks of the Navajo

The Four Sacred Mountains of the Navajo once formed the four boundaries of the Navajo People. One peak was accorded to each direction. This former region, known as the "Dinétah" was far larger than the reservation they have been given jurisdiction over today. Also attached to these peaks were other religious and social connotations. Two of these peaks are located in Colorado, including the famous fourteener we now called Blanca Peak.

Here is a description of each of the Four Sacred Peaks, a brief look at their history and symbology from the perspective of the Navajo as well as their place in the modern mountaineering canon.

NORTH
Hesperus Mountain (13,232')
The Sacred Peak of the North is Hesperus Mountain, or Dibé Nitsaa in the traditional language which means "Big Mountain Sheep." Dibé Nitsaa was said to have been assembled from Black Jet, a gemstone and precursor to coal, and fastened down with a rainbow beam for peace and harmony. It is said to represent the coming of darkness and to protect the people from danger and evil.

Today, Hesperus is Colorado's 451st tallest ranked peak. Though not a common mountaineering challenge, it is a worthy endeavor with 2,852 feet of topographical prominence (23rd in the state). It's easiest route is a moderate but significant route with around 3,000' of elevation gain and is rated a modest class 2 with short bits of nearly class 3 scrambling.

EAST

Blanca Peak (14,345')
The Sacred Peak of the East is Blanca Peak, or Sisnaajini, which translates to Black Belted Mountain. Since it is in the east, the direction of the sunrise, the mountain was thought to determine the orientation of a person's mind each morning. Traditionally, the doors of Navajo hogans also faced east.

Blanca Peak is the highest and probably most famous of the Four Sacred Peaks. It is Colorado's fourth-highest mountain, and one of the 53 ranked peaks above 14,000 feet. The standard route on Blanca Peak is a long climb, but only rated class 2. Reasonably athletic people should have no difficult climbing it.

SOUTH
Mount Taylor (11,301')

The Sacred Peak of the South is Mount Taylor near Grants, New Mexico. Mount Taylor is the lowest of the four peaks and probably the least well known. In the native tongue, it was known as Tsoodzil, or Turquoise Mountain. The mountain was said to be made of a turquoise blanket, and female imagery and the color blue are woven into many aspects of its mythology. It was decorated with female rain.

Mount Taylor is an extinct volcano, and from a mountaineering perspective perhaps the least interesting of the sacred mountains. The hike to the summit is a short, 4-mile trek that should take no more than a few hours. It is class 1.

WEST
Humphreys Peak (12,633')

The Sacred Peak of the West is Mount Humphreys, the tallest of the so-called San Francisco Peaks. The Navajo name for the peak is Doko’o’osliid, or Abalone Shell Mountain. Legend tells that it was made from an abalone blanket to create an understanding of life and social unity. It was anchored with sunbeams and covered with a blanket of yellow cloud. It was decorated with male rain.

Humphreys Peak is the eroded remains of an ancient stratovolcano. It is the highest peak in the state of Arizona and thus one of the 50 state high points. It is a massive and ultra-prominent peak, the 26th most prominent mountain in the Lower 48 with 6,039' of topographical prominence. The standard route is mostly class 1 with a few short sections of class 2 but is a significant journey requiring most of a day to complete.

SOURCES
Navajopeople.org- Brief descriptions of each peak and short lessons in their symbology and definitions.

Summitpost.org- Descriptions of the routes of each of the mountains.

Wikipedia.org- General info about geology as well as public domain images

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Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
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14ers Are Dead!

Mt. Elbert, Colorado's highest (and one of its busiest) mountains

Climbing 14ers is dead. Give up!

What?!? What do you mean? I love climbing Colorado's highest mountains! This hobby is more popular than ever! I have only fifteen more to go before I've stamped every mountain in my 14er passport!

Okay, okay, I still like climbing 14ers, too, and I'm not going to stop climbing them on occasion, but sorry, it's just not impressive anymore to brag over beers that you "climbed" Mt. Elbert. And though your ego may swell to boast about being a 14er "finisher," so many have done it before you, it's just not the same as it was twenty, or even ten, years ago.

Where's the adventure? Where's the skill? The short answer? Not on Colorado's 14ers. Not anymore.

Spoiler alert! The internet (this website inluded) is bursting with beta regarding Colorado's 14ers. There are hundreds of pictures from every angle. Three-thousand word blow-by-blow descriptions that leave nothing to the imagination. Youtube videos that show every move of every crux. You can easily feel like you climbed them all without even leaving the comfort and safety of your living room.

And people just can seem to get enough.

But the adventure of mountaineering, what has always been at the very soul of this beloved pastime, is simply lost when you follow a train of two-hundred others up the slopes of a mountain. The sense of accomplishment from summiting a tall peak is  eliminated by the hoards of flip-flop wearing gumbies (each following an internet map and GPS tracker on their smartphones) swarming around you on the top.

La Plata Peak in the Sawatch Range

It is true, crowds are nothing new and the internet is now several decades old, but the beta age has reached a new apogee that has spoiled nearly everything. Nothing is secret and nothing is sacred.

One of my favorite nearby hot springs, which ten years ago was a refuge of quiet and solitude, is now a veritable circus on a summer day, complete with beer-guzzling party-goers, lawn chairs and thundering music. With the rise of social media, and millions if not billions of websites devoted to every niche you can possibly imagine, things that were once glorious, like summiting 14ers, have lost their prestige. Climbing these popular peaks, like travel blogging and MTV, is dead.

I hate to be cynical and nobody likes a pessimist. So what are we to do? What is the antidote to the death of the Adventure Era? The terrible answer is: I don't know. I'm tired of hearing people telling me "you should have been here in the 70's." I know they're right. But the world has changed. Earth's population has more than doubled in the last 50 years, and the growth hasn't slowed. Imagine what they will say in another 50 years. Maybe there will be paved staircases with handrails all the way to the top of every peak in the state.

But here are some ideas to help us still cultivate this long-lost adventure. And you don't have to travel around the globe to find it. It is still possible right here in our own backyards in the very mountains we have loved into their graves:

1) Pick a random mountain you have never heard of and climb it. 
Don't use google. In fact, don't even go on the internet at all. Use nothing more than a topo map and your own skill. Treat it like a first ascent. Scout the peak for the easiest line and nail it. Sure "Point 12,762" might not have the bragging power of "Capitol Peak," but is bragging really why we climb? (If you answered yes, then I hate to say it but you are NOT really a mountaineer anyway. Sorry....)

Snowmass Mountain from the backside

2) Climb a 14er by a much harder, non-standard line 
Everyone and their dog (literally) climbs routes like the Keyhole Route on Longs Peak. Go and ascend Kiener's instead. It's much more beautiful, much more exhilarating, and you can pop up on the summit plateau on the other side of the peak from everyone else, making you feel (at least for a moment) like a rock star. Several years ago I created a "14ers the Hard Way" list, to provide alternatives to those over-trampled standard routes. I dare you to complete this list!

3) Climb in the winter
Sure it's much harder, sure it's more dangerous, but climbing 14ers in the winter adds such a significant bump in the hero factor that you can feel like an actual mountaineer once again. You will see these peaks for what they are: impressive, beautiful and majestic. They deserve this reputation. And you deserve to experience them this way.

There it is. I said it. It's done. Climbing 14ers is no longer adventure, it's no longer heroic. It's a cliche. But there is hope, and you can be part of the solution.

RELATED ARTICLES
-14ers the Hard Way
-The Future of Climbing and Mountaineering
-Ten Mountains You've Probably Haven't Climbed But Should

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List: The Centennial Peaks (100 Highest)

The 100 tallest "official" peaks in Colorado, sometimes called the "Centennial List". The generally accepted standard for official status by mountaineers in Colorado is that a mountain should have at least 300 feet of topographical prominence (rise from the highest connecting saddle with a higher peak).

Peak Name	Elevation	Rank	Range	Difficulty easiest route (YDS)
Mount Elbert	14,433'	1	Sawatch	class 1
Mount Massive	14,421'	2	Sawatch	class 2
Mount Harvard	14,420'	3	Sawatch	class 2
Blanca Peak	14,345'	4	Sangre De Cristo	class 2
La Plata Peak	14,336'	5	Sawatch	class 2
Uncompahgre Peak	14,309'	6	San Juan	class 2
Crestone Peak	14,294'	7	Sangre De Cristo	class 3
Mount Lincoln	14,286'	8	Tenmile Range	class 2
Grays Peak	14,270'	9	Front Range	class 1
Mount Antero	14,269'	10	Sawatch	class 2
Torreys Peak	14,267'	11	Front Range	class 2
Castle Peak	14,265'	12	Elk Range	class 2+
Quandary Peak	14,265'	13	Tenmile Range	class 1
Mount Evans	14,264'	14	Front Range	class 1
Longs Peak	14,255'	15	Front Range	class 3
Mount Wilson	14,246'	16	Front Range	class 4
Mount Shavano	14,229'	17	Sawatch	class 2
Mount Princeton	14,197'	18	Sawatch	class 2
Mount Belford	14,197	19	Sawatch	class 1
Crestone Needle	14,197	20	Sangre De Cristo	class 3
Mount Yale	14,196'	21	Sawatch	class 2
Mount Bross	14,172'	22	Mosquito	class 2
Kit Carson Peak	14,165'	23	Sangre De Cristo	class 3
Maroon Peak	14,156'	24	Elk Range	class 3
Tabeguache Peak	14,155'	25	Sawatch	class 2
Mount Oxford	14,153'	26	Sawatch	class 2
Mount Sneffels	14,150'	27	San Juan	class 2
Mount Democrat	14,148'	28	Mosquito	class 2
Capitol Peak	14,130'	29	Elk	class 4
Pikes Peak	14,110	30	Front Range	class 1
Snowmass Mountain	14,092'	31	Elk	class 3
Windom Peak	14,087'	32	San Juan	class 2+
Mount Eolus	14,084'	33	San Juan	class 3
Challenger Point	14,081'	34	Sangre De Cristo	class 2+
Mount Columbia	14,073'	35	Sawatch	class 2
Missouri Mountain	14,067'	36	Sawatch	class 2+
Humboldt Peak	14,064'	37	Sangre De Cristo	class 2
Mount Bierstadt	14,060'	38	Front Range	class 2
Sunlight Peak	14,059'	39	San Juan	class 4
Handies Peak	14,048'	40	San Juan	class 1
Culebra Peak	14,047'	41	Sangre De Cristo	class 2
Mount Lindsey	14,042'	42	Sangre De Cristo	class 2+
Ellingwood Point	14,042'	43	Sangre De Cristo	class 2
Little Bear	14,037'	44	Sangre De Cristo	class 4
Mount Sherman	14,036'	45	Tenmile Range	class 2
Redcloud Peak	14,034'	46	San Juan	class 2
Pyramid Peak	14,018'	47	Elk Range	class 4
Wilson Peak	14,017'	48	San Juan	class 3
Wetterhorn	14,015'	49	San Juan	class 3
San Luis Peak	14,014'	50	San Juan	class 1
Mount of the Holy Cross	14,005'	51	Elk Range	class 2
Huron Peak	14,003'	52	Sawatch	class 1
Sunshine Peak	14,001'	53	San Juan	class 2
Grizzly Peak	13,988'	54	Sawatch	class 2
Stewart Peak	13,983'	55	San Juan	class 1
Columbia Point	13,980'	56	Sangre De Cristo	class 2+
Pigeon Peak	13,972'	57	San Juan	class 4
Mount Ouray	13,971'	58	Sawatch	class 2
Fletcher Mountain	13,951	59	Tenmile Range	class 2
Ice Mountain	13,951	60	Sawatch	class 3
Pacific Peak	13,950'	61	Tenmile Range	class 2
Cathedral Peak	13,943	62	Elk Range	class 3
French Mountain	13,940'	63	Sawatch	class 2
Mount Hope	13,933'	64	Sawatch	class 2
"Thunder Pyramid"	13,932'	65	Elk Range	class 3
Mount Adams	13,931	66	Sangre De Cristo	class 2+
Gladstone Peak	13,913'	67	San Juan	class 3
Mount Meeker	13,911'	68	Front Range	class 3
Casco Peak	13,908'	69	Sawatch	class 2
Red Mountain	13,908	70	Sangre De Cristo	class 2
Emerald Peak	13,904'	71	Sawatch	class 2
Horseshoe Mountain	13,898'	72	Tenmile Range	class 1
"Phoenix Peak"	13,895'	73	San Juan	class 1
Vermilion Peak	13,894'	74	San Juan	class 2
Cronin Peak	13,870'	75	Sawatch	class 2
Mount Buckskin	13,865'	76	Tenmmile Range	class 2
Vestal Peak	13,864'	77	San Juan	class 2+
Jones Mountain	13,860'	78	San Juan	class 2
North Apostle	13,860'	79	Sawatch	class 2
Clinton Peak	13,857'	80	Tenmile Range	class 2
Dyer Mountain	13,855'	81	Tenmile Range	class 2
Crystal Peak	13,852	82	Tenmile Range	class 2
Mount Edwards	13,850'	83	Front Range	class 1
California Peak	13,849'	84	Sangre De Cristo	class 1
Mount Oklahoma	13,845'	85	Sawatch	class 2
"Atlantic Peak"	13,841'	86	Tenmile Range	class 2
Hagerman Peak	13,841	87	Elk Range	class 2+
Half Peak	13,841	88	San Juan	class 2
Turret Peak	13,835'	89	San Juan	class 2+
Point 13,832	13,832'	90	San Juan	class 2
Holy Cross Ridge	13,831'	91	San Juan	class 2
Jupiter Mountain	13,830'	92	San Juan	class 2+
"Huerfano Peak"	13,828'	93	Sangre De Cristo	class 2
Jagged Mountain	13,824'	94	San Juan	class 5.2
”Lackawanna Peak"	13,823'	95	Sawatch	class 2
Mount Silverheels	13,822'	96	Tenmile Range	class 1
Rio Grande Pyramid	13,821'	97	San Juan	class 2
Teakettle Mountain	13,819'	98	San Juan	class 5.3
Point 13,811	13,811'	99	San Juan	class 1
Dallas Peak	13,809'	100	San Juan	class 5.3

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Peak of the Week: Kit Carson

Kit Carson Peak (14,165 feet)

INTRO

At 14,165 feet, Kit Carson is Colorado's 23rd highest peak. Overshadowed somewhat but its more famous neighbor, Crestone Peak, Kit Carson is the king of an impressive massif that also includes Challenger Point (14,081 feet, rank: #34) and Columbia Point (13,980 feet, rank: #56). It is an impressive mountain and like many of the high peaks in the Sangre De Cristo Range, it is not an easy one to climb. Its easiest route is class 3 and there are several worthy technical routes also on this unique mountain notable for the wild conglomerate rock.

Though they are relatively narrow, the Sangre's are one of Colorado's most dramatic ranges, and Kit Carson deserves to be listed as one of the range's premier peaks. Every Colorado mountaineer, matter what their skill level, should put this mountain on their list.

DIRECTIONS
Kit Carson is most commonly accessed via South Colony Lake. To get there from Westcliffe, follow Highway 69 for 4.5 miles south. Veer south (right) onto Colfax Lane (County Road 119). Follow this road straight until you reach a T-intersection with Country Road 120 (South Colony Road). Turn right and follow this road 1.5 miles to the trailhead. 4WD vehicles can continue for as many as four more miles to a high trailhead at 11,000 feet. This road is notoriously bad and sometimes a gate may block it off at 9,800 feet.

ROUTES

Kit Carson Avenue

East Ridge (class 3-4)
This is a popular route since it is the easiest way to reach the summit from South Colony Lake.


West Ridge (class 3)
The West Ridge is the easiest way to climb Kit Carson but cannot be done from South Colony Lake. In the process you also climb Challenger Point (14,081 feet). After reaching the summit of this lower neighbor, the route descends to a saddle, finds Kit Carson Avenue and joins the East Ridge for the summit pitch gully to the top.

North Ridge (class 4)
This climb is reached via the Willow Lakes approach on the opposite side of the mountain from the usual South Colony staging ground. This makes the North Ridge a good route for anyone who is looking for a more technical and off-the-beaten-path way to reach the summit than the standard West Ridge.

The Prow (class 5.8)
The Prow is one of Colorado's best technical routes on a 14er. It deserves to be named alongside other great Sangre climbs, like the Ellingwood Arete. While most of the Prow is 5.6 or easier climbing, the route is known for funky, hard-to-protect rock and exhilarating exposure. This is certainly not a place you want to be in a bad storm. The bottom of the technical portion of the route is also guarded by the crux moves of the climb. This overhanging beginning leads to some fun moves above. This is the most proud and enticing way to get to the top of Kit Carson or the experienced rock climber.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
The South Colony Lakes are in the Sangre De Cristo Wilderness Area and special regulations apply. These mostly focus on the carryout of waste. Check out the fact sheet for the Sangre De Cristo Wilderness Area for more information.

LINKS
Kit Carson mountain profile on 14ers.com

The Prow on MountainProject.com

Kit Carson mountain profile on Summitpost.org

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Hot Route: Mount Massive, East Slopes

Length: 14 miles
Elevation gain: 4,600 feet
difficulty: class 2

OVERVIEW

Mount Massive East Slopes

Mount Massive is a mountain that fits its name. It is truly a giant among lesser Colorado peaks. Although there are shorter ways to climb Massive than this standard route, the East Slopes is the easiest path to the summit from a technical standpoint. Almost the entire climb is on a well-traveled trail. The route is long, however, compared to many standard 14er hikes, and it will earn its name long before you stand on its top.

The East Slopes route on Massive is mostly a cruise and is one of the more popular 14er climbs in the Sawatch Range and probably the state. Don't expect solitude during the summer on this route. Still, this route is one of the classic 14er hikes in the state. Mount Massive is one of Colorado most, well, massive mountains. It sheer size makes it interesting to climb and powerful to include on your ticklist.

THE ROUTE
This first three miles of this climb follow wooded and mellow trail (part of the Colorado Trail). This trail (whose trailhead is almost exactly across the street from the trailhead for the North Mount Elbert Trail) takes you from just over 10,000 feet on Massive's southeast flank around to Massive's east side. After three miles, the trail meets a junction and turns west (left) toward the basin on the mountains east slopes. This trail junction is at 11,200 feet.

Late spring conditions on Massive

From here the route turn and quickly passses treeline, turning eventually into a long basin where Massive comes into view. It might seem close from here, but distances are deceiving. It may seem in this next section, that ou are hiking and hiking towards the mountain but it just keeps getting farther away.

Finally, after another 3 miles, you reach the saddle between Mount Massive's main summit and "South Massive," an unranked 14,000 sub-summit. From here it is just a short distance up a mildly scruffy class 2 slope to the top.

DIRECTIONS

From Highway 24 approximately 3 miles south of Leadville, turn west onto Highway 300. After .8 mile turn left (south) on CR-11. 1.2 miles farther, follow signs toward Halfmoon Creek and turn right. The Mt. Massive TH is five miles farther on the right (north) side of the road. There are several National Forest campsites in the area as well as dispersed camping. The more environmentally correct option is to stay in the developed, fee-based areas. If you must set-up in dispersed areas, please avoid building fire rings, there are plenty already. The Mount Massive trailhead is about one half-mile west of the North Mt. Elbert trailhead (which is on the opposite side of the road).

TRIP REPORTS
Redemption on Mount Massive- After turning around on Mt. Massive the year before due to lightning, we returned in 2011 to battle deep, rotten snow and a late-spring snowstorm to make the summit just in time to glissade down.

LINKS
Mt. Massive on 14ers.com

Mt. Massive on summitpost.org

Near the top

The final ridge

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Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link