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Showing posts with label Flat Tops Range. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Flat Tops Range. Show all posts
Sunday, December 4, 2016
2017 Colorado Mountaineering Calendar Now Available!
**UPDATE** As the new year rapidly approaches, the 2017 Colorado Mountaineering calendar has now been marked down 20%!! Act now to still receive yours before 2017 begins!**
For information about how to contact us, visit this link
Wednesday, February 13, 2013
Hanging Lake: Gem of the White River National Forest
INTRODUCTION
This ultra-popular hike is in Glenwood Canyon east of Glenwood Springs. The trail ascends 1,200’ in about a mile and a half from the Hanging Lake Trailhead to the teal-blue waters of Hanging Lake. A series of beautiful waterfalls at the top makes this a worthwhile adventure. This hike draws a great deal of attention, particularly on summer weekends. For more solitude, hike Hanging Lake in the off-season such as fall when the air temps are not as high, the crowds are down, and the colors are out. The trail up Hanging Lake is solid and well-maintained. Despite this, many people underestimate the effort required on the steep route that leads back to the lake. For the experienced hiker, however, Hanging Lake is little more than a moderate workout in a gorgeous setting.
GETTING THERE
From Glenwood Springs, drive east on I-70 nine miles to the Hanging Lake exit (exit 125). This exit is only accessible from the eastbound lanes, so drivers coming from the east will have to exit and turn around at exit 121 (Grizzly Creek) to get there. Park at the large rest stop (which will fill despite its size on a busy summer weekend) and hike .5 mile east along the Glenwood Canyon Bike Path to reach the trailhead.
THE ROUTE
While this hike is on a solid trail the entire way, it is important to note that it is strenuous. Many people undertake this hike thinking that it's going to be a casual journey; it is not. You will probably pass many un-shapely humanoids struggling and complaining their way up this trail. For a true hiking enthusiast, however, making it to the lake shouldn’t be a problem.
The trail follows Deadhorse Creek up the northern side of Glenwood Canyon, passing many rapids and waterfalls along the way. There are several footbridges and plenty of shady places to stop and rest. The trail becomes considerably steeper near the end as you circumnavigate Bridal Veil Falls just below Hanging Lake proper. The very last pitch is the steepest, and steps have been cut into the stone to help you along. In addition, a handrail has been constructed for protection. Despite these safety features, it seems like several people get injured up here every year.
Once past the steepest section you arrive at Hanging Lake. Here a beautiful, multi-ribbon, 40’ waterfall pours into a teal-green pool formed by travertine “teacup” deposits. This travertine is very fragile and takes eons to form. To protect this fragile wonder, a wooden walkway has been constructed around the lake. Please be respectful of this amazing place and stay on the boardwalk.
For those seeking a little adventure, a spur trail climbs up and around the main waterfall to Spouting Rock, a peculiar waterfall which partially erupts directly from the cliff. You can walk behind the waterfall here for a unique perspective and even stand under it if the water is low enough. Take caution, however, this plunge generates some powerful forces!
CAMPING
The nearest camping is at the Glenwood Canyon Resort off the No Name Exit in Glenwood Canyon (a few miles west of Hanging Lake). Here you will find cabins, showers, and slightly overpriced tent sites.
Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
For information about how to contact us, visit this link
 |
| Hanging Lake in summer |
GETTING THERE
From Glenwood Springs, drive east on I-70 nine miles to the Hanging Lake exit (exit 125). This exit is only accessible from the eastbound lanes, so drivers coming from the east will have to exit and turn around at exit 121 (Grizzly Creek) to get there. Park at the large rest stop (which will fill despite its size on a busy summer weekend) and hike .5 mile east along the Glenwood Canyon Bike Path to reach the trailhead.
 |
| Hanging Lake Canyon in winter |
While this hike is on a solid trail the entire way, it is important to note that it is strenuous. Many people undertake this hike thinking that it's going to be a casual journey; it is not. You will probably pass many un-shapely humanoids struggling and complaining their way up this trail. For a true hiking enthusiast, however, making it to the lake shouldn’t be a problem.
The trail follows Deadhorse Creek up the northern side of Glenwood Canyon, passing many rapids and waterfalls along the way. There are several footbridges and plenty of shady places to stop and rest. The trail becomes considerably steeper near the end as you circumnavigate Bridal Veil Falls just below Hanging Lake proper. The very last pitch is the steepest, and steps have been cut into the stone to help you along. In addition, a handrail has been constructed for protection. Despite these safety features, it seems like several people get injured up here every year.
 |
| Spouting Rock above Hanging Lake |
For those seeking a little adventure, a spur trail climbs up and around the main waterfall to Spouting Rock, a peculiar waterfall which partially erupts directly from the cliff. You can walk behind the waterfall here for a unique perspective and even stand under it if the water is low enough. Take caution, however, this plunge generates some powerful forces!
CAMPING
The nearest camping is at the Glenwood Canyon Resort off the No Name Exit in Glenwood Canyon (a few miles west of Hanging Lake). Here you will find cabins, showers, and slightly overpriced tent sites.
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For information about how to contact us, visit this link
Friday, January 4, 2013
FEATURED ROUTE: Devil's Causeway (Flat Tops Wilderness)
Length: 6 miles (10 miles for loop extension)
Difficulty: class 2+ (exposed)
Elevation gain: 1,600'
Trailhead: Stillwater lake
INTRODUCTION
The Devil's Causeway in Colorado's Flat Tops Wilderness Area is an excellent alpine route that takes you past several pristine lakes, a deep basin, and an exposed and exciting ridge. It is one of the more popular hiking routes in this portion of the state, certainly one of the most popular areas in the Flat Tops Wilderness.
GETTING THERE
The Devil's Causeway is accessed from the small hamlet of Yampa. Exit Highway131 in Yampa and head west following signs toward Stillwater Reservoir and the Flat Tops. Follow the dirt road (CR 7) past several developed camping areas, over the dam and past Yamcolo Lake at mile 10.75 and finally to a small parking lot at the end of the road just before Stillwater Dam at mile 17. This is the trailhead for the Causeway.
THE ROUTE
From the trailhead at Stillwater Lake, follow the well established trail west, crossing a small creek and coursing along the banks of the reservoir for .75 miles until you reach a major trail leaving the main trail on the right. Take this right through a beautiful forest as it winds its way north passes the small but beautiful Little Causeway Lake at mile 1.6 (10,800') and starts to climb more steeply towards a large bowl above you.
Climb up into the basin to where the terrain gets steeper and starts to switchback at mile 2.25 (11,250'). Climb steeply up the switchbacks for another half mile to the saddle at 11,600' on the Devil's Causeway Ridge. From here you are very close, but the exposure gets steadily more intense as you approach the Causeway. Though you shouldn't be up here for long, as it is a short out and back to the Causeway climax, this is no place to be caught in a storm.
Climb up steep terrain to a knob at 11,800'. Proceed along the narrowing fin until you reach the crux, which is only class 2-2+. It is rocky, however, and quite exhilarating. Most people cross the causeway, stop somewhere just on the other side and return back by retracing their steps to the car. For the more adventurous, however, there is a longer route.
After crossing the Causeway, the loop route continues along the rim on the basin to Mosquito Pass at 11,300' on the southwest end of the basin. From here you can descend a trail past Mosquito Lake, back down to Stillwater Lake and finally back to you car. This excellent journey has an adventurous feel and takes a full day, as it is a little more than 10 miles in length. Take a map, perhaps a Garmin, and be prepared for all sorts of alpine hazards. The payoff, however, is well worth it.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
The biggest hazard of the Devil's Causeway is alpine exposure and weather. Many people have difficulty with the exposure at the crux of the causeway, and some have been known to crawl through the most exposed section. Remember that the Flat Tops are known for protracted, apocalyptic thunderstorms. While this route is a quick out and back and therefore doesnt't keep you exposed for too much time, it is still important to consider the weather before committing to the most serious portion of this route.
EXTERNAL LINKS
The Colorado Hiker- a webpage with beta on hikes in Colorado. This link takes you to the page for the Devil's Causeway.
Difficulty: class 2+ (exposed)
Elevation gain: 1,600'
Trailhead: Stillwater lake
INTRODUCTION
GETTING THERE
The Devil's Causeway is accessed from the small hamlet of Yampa. Exit Highway131 in Yampa and head west following signs toward Stillwater Reservoir and the Flat Tops. Follow the dirt road (CR 7) past several developed camping areas, over the dam and past Yamcolo Lake at mile 10.75 and finally to a small parking lot at the end of the road just before Stillwater Dam at mile 17. This is the trailhead for the Causeway.
THE ROUTE
Climb up into the basin to where the terrain gets steeper and starts to switchback at mile 2.25 (11,250'). Climb steeply up the switchbacks for another half mile to the saddle at 11,600' on the Devil's Causeway Ridge. From here you are very close, but the exposure gets steadily more intense as you approach the Causeway. Though you shouldn't be up here for long, as it is a short out and back to the Causeway climax, this is no place to be caught in a storm.
After crossing the Causeway, the loop route continues along the rim on the basin to Mosquito Pass at 11,300' on the southwest end of the basin. From here you can descend a trail past Mosquito Lake, back down to Stillwater Lake and finally back to you car. This excellent journey has an adventurous feel and takes a full day, as it is a little more than 10 miles in length. Take a map, perhaps a Garmin, and be prepared for all sorts of alpine hazards. The payoff, however, is well worth it.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
EXTERNAL LINKS
The Colorado Hiker- a webpage with beta on hikes in Colorado. This link takes you to the page for the Devil's Causeway.
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Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department
Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
For information about how to contact us, visit this link
Friday, December 21, 2012
AREA PROFILE: Glenwood Canyon
INTRODUCTION
Glenwood Canyon is a major canyon along the Colorado River in the heart of the Rocky Mountains. It is a recreational hub for biking, hiking, riversports, spelunking and climbing as well as a major travel artery for Colorado and the west. The Cambrian and sedimentary rocks soar 2,000 feet above the river, providing dramatic scenery and unique geologic architecture. The canyon's limestone is home to many caves and other dramatic formations. Glenwood Canyon is an important travel corridor and during its history has been home to a railway, a bike path, a two-lane highway, and now a four-lane interstate which was completed in 1992. The Shoshone Dam and Powerplant, operated by Excel and located immediately downstream of the Hanging Lake recreation area, was completed in 1909 and utilizes hydroelectric energy to provide power to nearly 12,000 homes in the Glenwood Springs area.
From a climbing and hiking perspective, Glenwood Canyon is host to innumerable opportunities for recreation and exploration. Glenwood Canyon is in the White River National Forest and several of the trails can access, with a little proper preparation and know-how, the Flat Tops Wilderness Area. Several of the canyon's walls have been developed with both sport and trad routes, the most popular being No Name for traditional climbing and the Puoux for sport. Other types of climbing exist, however, including grade IV routes on the International Buttress in the heart of the canyon and Grizzly Creek Canyon's Mudwall as well as ice climbing in various locations. Glenwood Canyon is not only popular with hikers and climbers but with rafters, bikers, kayakers, inner-tubers, I-70 truckers, roller-skaters, sun bathers, and folk of all other sort. Most seem to coexist peacefully despite a premium on parking.
HISTORY
Glenwood Canyon has a unique and storied history. In the late 19th century the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad completed its tracks through the canyon, providing the first travel route through the canyon corridor. These tracks are owned and operated today by Union Pacific and are frequently used for coal transportation and by Amtrak. In 1906 the Taylor State Road was completed through the canyon. This highway was eventually paved. In 1992 the construction of I-70 was completed through the canyon. This section of I-70 was one of the last pieces of I-70 to be completed and, at the time, was the most expensive section of road in the interstate-highway system. Great care was taken during the construction of the I-70 project to preserve the canyon’s natural beauty and minimize the environmental impact. The project included 40 bridges and viaducts, miles of retaining walls, and three major tunnels. The entire system also includes considerable technology for monitoring and controlling traffic, accidents, and rockfall along this section of the interstate.
Glenwood Canyon also is home to the Shoshone Dam and Powerplant. When this project was completed in 1909 it made Glenwood Springs one of the first fully-powered cities in the United States.
Glenwood Canyon is also home to several major hot springs, many of which can be enjoyed for free at river level during low water. The Yampah spring is the largest and is the source for the ultra-popular Hot Springs Pool in Glenwood Springs. Old West gunslinger Doc Holliday died in Glenwood Springs where he came to find some relief for his tuberculosis in the Yampah spring.
Teddy Roosevelt frequented the Hotel Colorado at the mouth of the canyon many times during his life. Supposedly, one day after a failed bear hunt Hotel Colorado maids presented him with a stuffed bear made of scrap material as a consolation for failing to bag the real thing. As legend would have it, Teddy Roosevelt presented the bear to his daughter, the idea caught on, and the toy now known as the teddy bear was born. Teddy Roosevelt, interestingly, wasn't the only celebrity who frequented the Hotel Colorado. It was a mountain retreat for many of America's elite of the time. President William Howard Taft, The "Unsinkable" Molly Brown, "Diamond" Jack Alterie, and even Al Capone made frequent trips to the hotel. The building has such a storied (and even violent) history that it is rumored to be haunted. Almost every Glenwood Springs local either has or knows someone who has a Hotel Colorado ghost story.
HIKING
There are numerous quality hikes in Glenwood Canyon, many of which offer exciting potential for more in-depth exploration. The Glenwood Canyon Bike Path is a concrete trail that follows the river for the entire length of the canyon from near Dotsero to Glenwood Springs. This 18-mile trail is popular for joggers, bikers, and casual hikers.
The Grizzly Creek trail is an 8-mile trek (roundtrip) up a wide and rugged canyon along a perennial creek that provides the water supply for the City of Glenwood Springs. This popular trail is used by hikers of all abilities, from restless I-70 drivers shaking their legs after a long driving shift to casual hikers who rarely go past the first mile to full-on adventurers who continue well-past the seeming "end" of the trail, perhaps all the way into the Flat Tops Wilderness Area.
The Jess Weaver trail follows No Name Canyon, the next drainage west of Grizzly Creek. No Name also offers miles of hiking in a beautiful canyon setting.
The most popular trail, however, is the Hanging Lake trail which climbs 1,200 strenuous feet to a verdant oasis of waterfalls and lakes. Surely this is one of the most popular hiking trails in this part of the state and for good reason. While Hanging Lake can be very busy during the summer, especially on weekends, solitude can still be found in the off-season. Fall is one of the best times to visit the canyon. The combination of colors in the beautiful lake setting is breathtaking. Wintertime can be treacherous, as dangerous ice can form in the canyon. For those with knowledge of ice travel and ice climbing the trip can be very rewarding.
ROCK CLIMBING
Glenwood Canyon has several quality climbing areas that offer a variety of climbing adventures. The rock in Glenwood Canyon is a mixture of limestone, quartzite, and granite of mixed quality. In the 1960's and 70's, legendary Colorado climber and occasional Glenwood local Layton Kor spent much time training on the rock in Glenwood Canyon for more heralded first ascents across the Southwest, such as mega-classics the Naked Edge (III 5.9 A3) in Eldorado Canyon, The Yellow Wall (V 5.8 A4) on the Diamond on Longs Peak, the West Buttress (VI 5.10 A3) on El Cap, and the Kor-Ingalls (III 5.9+) route on Castleton Tower just to name a few. Relics of Kor's extensive exploration of the walls of Glenwood Canyon can be found in surprising places, from random pitons on the Puoux to established routes on the Mudwall to unknown random gear on many of the canyon's most obscure walls. It has been a common experience of modern Glenwood Canyon climbing pioneers to be climbing up dirty towers and faces, thinking they were establishing a brand new route only to find pitons and anchors likely placed there by Kor.
Despite this history and the immense wealth of large walls in the Canyon, it is a relatively untapped and under-appreciated climbing destination. There are several contributing factors to the obscurity of Glenwood Canyon's climbing. One is the presence of I-70. At crags like the Airy Block and the Puoux, the noise of numerous semis, cars, and SUVs is certainly enough to damper your experience. I-70 also takes up alot of space and limits the portals of access, making the approach to many walls quite a task, particularly those that are located on the opposite side of the river. The other deterring factor is the large band of loose, blocky quartzite that dominates much of the canyon terrain. While this large layer has yielded some interesting climbs and crags such as the Mudwall and the Deadhorse wall, its gnarly character eliminate all but hardened adventure climbers. Still, there are at least half a dozen established crags of both traditional and sport climbing, and there is amazing potential for expansion if you are willing to put in a little work. Here is a list of the most-popular Glenwood Canyon climbing destinations:
The Puoux- a limestone sport crag near the No Name exit. The Puoux (pronounced “Pukes”) offers easily accessible sport climbing immediately off of I-70 with difficulty ranging from 5.7 to 5.14. This fairly popular spot keeps the locals in shape. Some of the established sport lines include:
No Name Canyon- located just off the Jess Weaver trail, this area has several single-pitch trad climbing routes from 5.4 to 5.12. Here are some of the No Name favorites:
The Neighborhood- a sport crag near the canyon mouth just east of Glenwood Springs on the south side of the river. This little spot is easily accessible for Glenwood locals as an afterwork/school climb. The lines rate from 5.9 to 5.12b
Big (or almost big) Wall:
A non-exhaustive list of some of the other, less-traveled climbing crags in Glenwood Canyon:
The Airy Block- an interesting fin of granite with several good moderate trad climbs. The only catch is it's right next to the freeway...
Dead Horse Crag- this quartzite crag is accessed off the trail to Hanging Lake. There are several climbs of surprising quality from 5.9 to hard 5.11. Most require some gear to supplement bolts.
Fountain Buttress- Some of the best rock in the canyon, but difficult to access due to a river crossing. A tyrolean is sometimes set-up here, otherwise you will have to use a boat, swim or wait until very low water and walk across. Despite the excellent rock, classic routes, and massive potential, this rock sees surprisingly little use.
The Grey Slabs- Slabby, limestone climbing on the canyon's western end. Access by parking near the Hot Springs or Vapor Caves and hiking upstream along the bike path. Good moderate sport routes.
The Surgery Buttress- This limestone crag on the canyon's eastern end is also under-appreciated. There are about 15 climbs here from 5.9 to 5.12a.
OTHER RECREATIONAL ACTIVITIES
Biking- The Glenwood Canyon Bike Path offers 18 miles of uninterrupted concrete pathway through a beautiful canyon setting. This trail is mellow and popular and provides a nice opportunity for a good workout/escape.
Spelunking-The limestone of Glenwood Canyon has formed many caves, some of which have been explored and some of which have not. The Glenwood Caverns, high on the northern side of the canyon near Glenwood, offers established cave tours in a family-oriented amusement park setting. Undeveloped caves such as Cave of the Clouds offer something for those with a sense of adventure looking for something off-the-beaten-path.
River Sports- River sports are one of the most popular recreational activities in Glenwood Canyon. There are many options for kayaking and rafting within the canyon ranging from beginner to expert only. Local commercial outfitters run half & full day raft trips down the Colorado River through Glenwood Canyon. This is also an excellent place to learn and hone your kayaking skills. The runs include (from top to bottom):
SEASON
Recreation is available in Glenwood Canyon year round. In the summer the canyon is busy with people pursuing adventures of all sorts. In the winter, however, the narrow canyon is mostly shaded and cold but you can still hike and climb. There is, in fact, a long-running tradition amongst kayakers to float the Shoshone section of the Colorado River on New Year’s Day.
GETTING THERE
Glenwood Canyon is accessible from I-70 just east of Glenwood Springs. There are several exits from the freeway from which to launch your adventure, the most popular are No Name (exit 119), Grizzly Creek (exit 121), and Hanging Lake (exit 125).
CAMPING
The only legal place to camp inside Glenwood Canyon is at the developed Glenwood Canyon Resort at the No Name exit. The resort offers cabins, showers, rec rooms, and tent sites.
EXTERNAL LINKS
Mountain Project climbing pages:
Puoux
No Name Canyon
The Neighborhood
Glenwood Hot Springs- The World's Largest Hot Springs Pool.
Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
For information about how to contact us, visit this link
From a climbing and hiking perspective, Glenwood Canyon is host to innumerable opportunities for recreation and exploration. Glenwood Canyon is in the White River National Forest and several of the trails can access, with a little proper preparation and know-how, the Flat Tops Wilderness Area. Several of the canyon's walls have been developed with both sport and trad routes, the most popular being No Name for traditional climbing and the Puoux for sport. Other types of climbing exist, however, including grade IV routes on the International Buttress in the heart of the canyon and Grizzly Creek Canyon's Mudwall as well as ice climbing in various locations. Glenwood Canyon is not only popular with hikers and climbers but with rafters, bikers, kayakers, inner-tubers, I-70 truckers, roller-skaters, sun bathers, and folk of all other sort. Most seem to coexist peacefully despite a premium on parking.
HISTORY
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| Record high water in Glenwood Canyon- June 2011 |
Glenwood Canyon also is home to the Shoshone Dam and Powerplant. When this project was completed in 1909 it made Glenwood Springs one of the first fully-powered cities in the United States.
Glenwood Canyon is also home to several major hot springs, many of which can be enjoyed for free at river level during low water. The Yampah spring is the largest and is the source for the ultra-popular Hot Springs Pool in Glenwood Springs. Old West gunslinger Doc Holliday died in Glenwood Springs where he came to find some relief for his tuberculosis in the Yampah spring.
Teddy Roosevelt frequented the Hotel Colorado at the mouth of the canyon many times during his life. Supposedly, one day after a failed bear hunt Hotel Colorado maids presented him with a stuffed bear made of scrap material as a consolation for failing to bag the real thing. As legend would have it, Teddy Roosevelt presented the bear to his daughter, the idea caught on, and the toy now known as the teddy bear was born. Teddy Roosevelt, interestingly, wasn't the only celebrity who frequented the Hotel Colorado. It was a mountain retreat for many of America's elite of the time. President William Howard Taft, The "Unsinkable" Molly Brown, "Diamond" Jack Alterie, and even Al Capone made frequent trips to the hotel. The building has such a storied (and even violent) history that it is rumored to be haunted. Almost every Glenwood Springs local either has or knows someone who has a Hotel Colorado ghost story.
HIKING
There are numerous quality hikes in Glenwood Canyon, many of which offer exciting potential for more in-depth exploration. The Glenwood Canyon Bike Path is a concrete trail that follows the river for the entire length of the canyon from near Dotsero to Glenwood Springs. This 18-mile trail is popular for joggers, bikers, and casual hikers.
 |
| Scenery along the Grizzly Creek Trail |
The Jess Weaver trail follows No Name Canyon, the next drainage west of Grizzly Creek. No Name also offers miles of hiking in a beautiful canyon setting.
The most popular trail, however, is the Hanging Lake trail which climbs 1,200 strenuous feet to a verdant oasis of waterfalls and lakes. Surely this is one of the most popular hiking trails in this part of the state and for good reason. While Hanging Lake can be very busy during the summer, especially on weekends, solitude can still be found in the off-season. Fall is one of the best times to visit the canyon. The combination of colors in the beautiful lake setting is breathtaking. Wintertime can be treacherous, as dangerous ice can form in the canyon. For those with knowledge of ice travel and ice climbing the trip can be very rewarding.
ROCK CLIMBING
Glenwood Canyon has several quality climbing areas that offer a variety of climbing adventures. The rock in Glenwood Canyon is a mixture of limestone, quartzite, and granite of mixed quality. In the 1960's and 70's, legendary Colorado climber and occasional Glenwood local Layton Kor spent much time training on the rock in Glenwood Canyon for more heralded first ascents across the Southwest, such as mega-classics the Naked Edge (III 5.9 A3) in Eldorado Canyon, The Yellow Wall (V 5.8 A4) on the Diamond on Longs Peak, the West Buttress (VI 5.10 A3) on El Cap, and the Kor-Ingalls (III 5.9+) route on Castleton Tower just to name a few. Relics of Kor's extensive exploration of the walls of Glenwood Canyon can be found in surprising places, from random pitons on the Puoux to established routes on the Mudwall to unknown random gear on many of the canyon's most obscure walls. It has been a common experience of modern Glenwood Canyon climbing pioneers to be climbing up dirty towers and faces, thinking they were establishing a brand new route only to find pitons and anchors likely placed there by Kor.
 |
| Ironing Board Direct (5.10b) in No Name Canyon |
Despite this history and the immense wealth of large walls in the Canyon, it is a relatively untapped and under-appreciated climbing destination. There are several contributing factors to the obscurity of Glenwood Canyon's climbing. One is the presence of I-70. At crags like the Airy Block and the Puoux, the noise of numerous semis, cars, and SUVs is certainly enough to damper your experience. I-70 also takes up alot of space and limits the portals of access, making the approach to many walls quite a task, particularly those that are located on the opposite side of the river. The other deterring factor is the large band of loose, blocky quartzite that dominates much of the canyon terrain. While this large layer has yielded some interesting climbs and crags such as the Mudwall and the Deadhorse wall, its gnarly character eliminate all but hardened adventure climbers. Still, there are at least half a dozen established crags of both traditional and sport climbing, and there is amazing potential for expansion if you are willing to put in a little work. Here is a list of the most-popular Glenwood Canyon climbing destinations:
The Puoux- a limestone sport crag near the No Name exit. The Puoux (pronounced “Pukes”) offers easily accessible sport climbing immediately off of I-70 with difficulty ranging from 5.7 to 5.14. This fairly popular spot keeps the locals in shape. Some of the established sport lines include:
| Route | Type | Pitches | Difficulty | Location/Description |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| No Name 1 (aka Graybeard) | Sport | 1 | 5.8 | This excellent pitch is one of the better moderate routes at the wall |
| Pass the Ditchie | Sport | 1 | 5.9 | Scramble up to a ledge and climb an arcing dihedral past a piton to the anchors. Fun! |
| No Name 5 (Roadside Attraction) | Sport | 1 | 5.10a | Polished and popular. This is probably the most frequently climbed pitch in the canyon |
| No Name 4 (aka Moral Decay) | Sport | 1 | 5.10a | Another good moderate route on solid rock. 60 ft up a slab then onto a flake |
| Youth Warm Up | Sport | 1 | 5.11c | On the left side of the Main Wall at the Puoux. Challenging and popular route. |
| No Name 18 (aka Kors Korner) | Sport | 1 | 5.11d | A challenging route in the middle of the main wall. |
| Urban Cowboy | Sport | 1 | 5.12a | One of the best 5.12s around. Steep, perfectly bolted. Does have some manufactured holds. |
| The Birdman | Sport | 1 | 5.13a | A 55 ft route on the left side of the main wall. Part of recent development at the upper grades |
| Fault Line | Sport | 1 | 5.13d | A local test piece! A photo of Joe Kinder on this difficult route accelerated the popularity of the Puoux |
No Name Canyon- located just off the Jess Weaver trail, this area has several single-pitch trad climbing routes from 5.4 to 5.12. Here are some of the No Name favorites:
| Route | Type | Pitches | Difficulty | Location/Description |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Second Dihedral | trad | 1 | 5.6 | A high-quality corner, just to the right of the Pink Face. Perfect first lead. |
| Jungle Book | trad | 1 | 5.7 | An open corner just to the right of Unnamed aka "The Ironing Board" (5.9) |
| Electric Butterfly | trad | 1 | 5.8 | A fun, moderate climb next to the power shack just before the footbridge over No Name Creek. Can be done as TR |
| The Ironing Board | trad | 1 | 5.9 | A right-trending splitter with challenging gear placements and a 5.10b direct variation |
| The Pink Face | trad | 1 | 5.10+ | A long (110') splitter just left of Second Dihedral. |
| Lone Pine Direct | trad | 1 | 5.10 | Down and left from the Pink Face heading towards a pine tree. Thin splitter with finger to hand sized moves |
| Lightning Bolt Crack | trad | 1 | 5.10 | West side of creek on the Poison Ivy Wall. |
| Lost Dog | trad | 1 | 5.12- | A recently posted route that comes right out of the creek. Three bolts in addition to finger sized gear. Possible #3 Camalot sized piece |
The Neighborhood- a sport crag near the canyon mouth just east of Glenwood Springs on the south side of the river. This little spot is easily accessible for Glenwood locals as an afterwork/school climb. The lines rate from 5.9 to 5.12b
| Route | Type | Pitches | Difficulty | Location/Description |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Planet Janet | sport | 1 | 5.9+ | On the far right side of the Zipper Buttress. Short climb that follows a unique "groove". |
| California Dreaming | sport | 1 | 5.9+ | Right-facing dihedral 20 feet left of where trail meets crag. |
| Git 'Er Done | sport | 1 | 5.10c | Right side of Zipper Buttress starting in a chimney. |
| Zipper | sport | 1 | 5.11c | A 7-bolt climb sometimes called the best 5.11 in Glenwood Canyon |
| Enter the Dragon | sport | 1 | 5.12a | The feature route on the Dragon Cave wall and one of the best 5.12's in the canyon. |
| Bitch Slap | sport | 1 | 5.12b | Shares first bolts with The Tube but veers left. |
Big (or almost big) Wall:
| Route | Type | Pitches | Difficulty | Location/Description |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| The International | trad | 18 | 5.10+, Grade IV | A massive Grad IV climb in-between the Shoshone and Hanging Lake exits on south bank of river |
| Mudflap Girl | trad | 10 | 5.10, Grade IV | A monster, chossy wall about a mile up Grizzly creek on the west side of canyon. Can be seen from I-70 |
A non-exhaustive list of some of the other, less-traveled climbing crags in Glenwood Canyon:
The Airy Block- an interesting fin of granite with several good moderate trad climbs. The only catch is it's right next to the freeway...
Dead Horse Crag- this quartzite crag is accessed off the trail to Hanging Lake. There are several climbs of surprising quality from 5.9 to hard 5.11. Most require some gear to supplement bolts.
Fountain Buttress- Some of the best rock in the canyon, but difficult to access due to a river crossing. A tyrolean is sometimes set-up here, otherwise you will have to use a boat, swim or wait until very low water and walk across. Despite the excellent rock, classic routes, and massive potential, this rock sees surprisingly little use.
The Grey Slabs- Slabby, limestone climbing on the canyon's western end. Access by parking near the Hot Springs or Vapor Caves and hiking upstream along the bike path. Good moderate sport routes.
The Surgery Buttress- This limestone crag on the canyon's eastern end is also under-appreciated. There are about 15 climbs here from 5.9 to 5.12a.
OTHER RECREATIONAL ACTIVITIES
Biking- The Glenwood Canyon Bike Path offers 18 miles of uninterrupted concrete pathway through a beautiful canyon setting. This trail is mellow and popular and provides a nice opportunity for a good workout/escape.
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| Rafters in Glenwood Canyon |
River Sports- River sports are one of the most popular recreational activities in Glenwood Canyon. There are many options for kayaking and rafting within the canyon ranging from beginner to expert only. Local commercial outfitters run half & full day raft trips down the Colorado River through Glenwood Canyon. This is also an excellent place to learn and hone your kayaking skills. The runs include (from top to bottom):
| Section | Put-in | Take-out | Length | <2,000cfs (low) | 2,000-5,000 cfs (medium) | 5,000-10,000 cfs (high) | >10,000 cfs (cranking) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dotsero-Bair Ranch | Bike Path east trailhead | Bair Ranch | 3 miles | class I+ | class I+ | class I + | class II |
| Barrel Springs | Hanging Lake | Shoshone Power Plant | 2 miles | class IV+ (P) | class V (P) | class V (P) | class V+ (P) |
| Shoshone | Shoshone Power Plant | Grizzly Creek | 2 miles | class III | class III | class IV | class IV+ |
| Grizzly | Grizzly Creek | Two Rivers Park | 6 miles | class II | class II+ | class III | class III |
SEASON
Recreation is available in Glenwood Canyon year round. In the summer the canyon is busy with people pursuing adventures of all sorts. In the winter, however, the narrow canyon is mostly shaded and cold but you can still hike and climb. There is, in fact, a long-running tradition amongst kayakers to float the Shoshone section of the Colorado River on New Year’s Day.
Glenwood Canyon is accessible from I-70 just east of Glenwood Springs. There are several exits from the freeway from which to launch your adventure, the most popular are No Name (exit 119), Grizzly Creek (exit 121), and Hanging Lake (exit 125).
CAMPING
The only legal place to camp inside Glenwood Canyon is at the developed Glenwood Canyon Resort at the No Name exit. The resort offers cabins, showers, rec rooms, and tent sites.
EXTERNAL LINKS
Mountain Project climbing pages:
Puoux
No Name Canyon
The Neighborhood
Glenwood Hot Springs- The World's Largest Hot Springs Pool.
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Area Profile: Main Elk Canyon, Flat Tops Range
Main Elk Canyon is one of the major creek basins that drains the southwestern portion of the Flat Tops Range in central Colorado. While not really mountaineering, this little-known location is a great place to enjoy an alpine environment and even hone your skills. This major canyon is home to some remote alpine terrain, soaring limestone cliffs, and some of the best sport climbing in western Colorado. The creek, accessed from the small, non-descript town of New Castle, Colorado, also has a pair of significant trails that can lead one eventually into the Flat Tops Wilderness Area.
The Main Elk area is one of western Colorado's most beautiful and least traveled places. It's semi-remote location and out-of-the-way approach have deterred many people. For those, however, that are willing to spend the time to seek out what lies within this amazing place, there are untold secrets just waiting to be discovered. The possibilities for future rock climbing seems almost limitless, and the possibility for adventure is there for those willing to put in the work. While the Pup Tent of Solitude and Main Elk crags offer only mediocre to moderate challenges, for the sport climbing master with a sense of adventure the Fortress of Solitude is one of the best climbing destinations around.HISTORY
The Main Elk drainage has mostly escaped the popularity that has engulfed the nearby creeks and trails of Glenwood Canyon, yet from a climbing perspective its history is more significant to the annals of rock history that any area within Glenwood Canyon. It could be said that without the attention gained by the hardwork and difficult redpoints of Tommy Caldwell in 1999 and 2003, the Fortress of Solitude would be just another obscure, if not massive and untapped, crag in the backcountry of Colorado. When Caldwell redpointed Kryptonite at last, it was the country’s first 5.14d, making the moment a benchmark in the history of American sport climbing. Due to subsequent changes in the route topography, perhaps due to natural processes or perhaps due to clandestine chipping by later climbers, Kryptonite is often now considered 5.14c.
Nearly four years later, Caldwell returned to the Fortress and redpointed a monster project after several months of work. Famously, Caldwell refused to rate the route, claiming only that it was "significantly harder" than Kryptonite, which led to climbing media claiming Luthor as the first 5.15. To this day the route's rating has yet to have confirmation as nobody has been able to repeat Caldwell’s climb. Later rounds of development by climbers such as Dave Pegg, Matt Samet, Bryan Gall, and others have greatly expanded the climbing at the Fortress and the Pup Tent. Other walls nearby including some cliffs on the northeast side of the road are also starting to bee developed, though information about much of these routes is difficult to obtain.
HIKING
Two major hiking trails exist within the Main Elk Canyon system; the trail that follows along the creek into the canyon proper and the steeper Hadley Gulch trail that turns off the creek and follows Hadley Gulch up onto the canyon rim and, ultimately, onto the Flat Tops. From the parking area, follow the Hadley Gulch trail for .22 miles until you reach a prominent fork. Here is where the two routes differ:
Hadley Gulch Trail- This trail takes the right branch at the fork and contours steeply up the hillside and ultimately into the steep, usually dry creekbed. In the spring, however, this creek can hold a substantial amount of water and even be difficult to cross, as was the case for several weeks during the banner year of 2011. A small side trail just after the creek crossing access the climbing and the first route, Gatehouse of Lonliness, is the black buttress right here at this junction. To continue up the Hadley Gulch trail, follow the steep and winding trail as it climbs in the shadow of the Fortress of Solitude (about a mile passed the creek crossing) and into a meadow with another fork in the trail. You can try to follow the creek here but the route quickly becomes overgrown and downed trees are a problem. The main route turns left and climbs up the hill side through the cliffs and topsout at some indistinct dirt roads on the canyon rim. From here you are about 2.75 from the trailhead and have gained over 2,000 feet of elevation. On top of the rim there are a number of options available by following a variety of backcountry roads. This is a barren place that doesn’t see much traffic. Be sure to remember how to find the trail again as it quickly becomes lost in the thick brush.
 |
| Cliffs along Hadley Gulch trail
Main Elk Creek/Canyon
This beautiful hike is much quieter than neighbors such as Grizzly Creek or No Name. This beautiful trail follows the creek along the bottom of a narrow, quaint canyon for two miles to a prominent fork in the canyon. There is possible camping in this area. The trail peters out here and to continue farther you will need good backcountry skills. Ultimately, if you were to follow this canyon to its source, you will emerge deep in the Flat Tops above the Crater Lake area. |
 |
| Main Elk Canyon during runoff, any farther means gettin' wet.... |
While the climbing in Main Elk Canyon will never be as popular and famous as nearby Rifle Mountain Park, there is some climbing in the area that is still world class. The rock that has been established is split into three main crags:
Fortress of Solitude
The Fortress is proud, famous, and burly. Some of the hardest climbs in North America if not the world sit up there waiting, yet it is rare to see more than a few people up here all season! There are several reasons for that, I suspect. One is that given the grueling approach, it is difficult to motivate for this out-of-the-way crag with the roadside walls at Rifle Mountain Park nearby. Still, for those undaunted by things like a steep hike or semi-remote location, it is hard to beat the Fortress in terms of challenge and adventure, especially for sport climbing! Some of the best climbs at the Fortress (left to right)
| Route | Type | Pitches | Difficulty | Location/Description |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tommy’s 5.11 | Sport | 1 | 5.11d | The leftmost route at the Fortress. An early Tommy Caldwell creation. |
| The Pummeling | Sport | 1 | 5.13b R | This 100 foot pitch is famous for it’s difficulty and runout after the third bolt. |
| Glamorama | Sport | 1 | 5.12d | Not as hard as it looks. Climb through a section of bad rock to some of the best and most interesting holds. |
| The Daily Planet | Sport | 1 | 5.13d | Work through a mediocre first half to an amazing 60 feet of .13d on great rock. |
| Kryptonite | Sport | 1 | 5.14d | It takes a superhero to send this! A mega-famous route that has only been climbed a few times. |
| Flex Luthor | Sport | 1 | 5.15a | Touted as North America’s fist 5.15. Still unrepeated. |
| Metropolis | Sport | 1 | 5.12c | A 130 foot pitch that climbs some brilliant, sustained rock. |
| Orange Mechanique | Sport | 1 | 5.13a | Left side of the eastern portion of the Fortress. Crimp. 60 ft. |
| Boy Wonder | Sport | 1 | 5.12d | A short climb for the Fortress but with a variety of holds. |
 |
| The Fortress of Solitude |
The Pup Tent is overshadowed by it’s towering neighbor, but it is still a worthy crag, particularly if you are a novice/intermediate climber. There are just over 50 established lines, most of which are bolted with a handful of short trad lines thrown in for the mix. The routes are usually short, and the rock in general is quite good. Some of the better routes at the Pup Tent (right to left, as encountered from trail):
| Route | Type | Pitches | Difficulty | Location/Description |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gatehouse of Lonliness | Sport | 1 | 5.8 | This short climb is the first route encountered at the Tent and one of the easiest. Could use a cleaning. |
| Total Eclipse | Sport | 1 | 5.12a | Steep, bouldery and long for the tent. 7 bolts. |
| Subprime | Sport | 1 | 5.11a | Difficult start on a tan-colored wall. |
| Stimulus Package | Sport | 1 | 5.11d | An eight-bolt arête. |
| Rex Luthor | Sport | 1 | 5.11c | Short, challenging. Start on a flake and over a bulge. |
| Craptonite | Sport | 1 | 5.12a | one of the best routes at the Tent |
| Easiest | Sport | 1 | 5.7 | A short climb, easiest at Tent. Can access anchors to next to climbs from top. |
| Easy | Sport | 1 | 5.10a | Climb easy terrain to an insecure flake and reachy, overhanging topout. |
| Easier | Sport | 1 | 5.9 | A tricky climb with some fun movement at the crux topout |
| Deputy Dawg Lives to Fight Another Day | Sport | 1 | 5.8 | Possibly the best moderate at the Tent |
| Country Style Pork Rib | Sport | 1 | 5.9 | A challenging 5.9 with a counter-intuitive crux |
| First Blood | Sport | 1 | 5.9+ | On the right side of the next teir down from the previous climbs |
| Magical Handhold | Sport | 1 | 5.10c | A fun climb with some sneaky beta |
| Subtle Knife | Sport | 1 | 5.10a | An interesting arete feature with good, dark stone. Anchor chains were stolen from this climb and as of now still haven't been replaced |
| Puppy Love | Sport | 1 | 5.11c | One of the Tent’s best! Long and challenging. |
| Nose Picking Good | Sport | 1 | 5.9 | A cool, black-colored arete. Some choss on a ledge midway and possible rope snag near top. |
| Nicklepup | Sport | 1 | 5.10a | A fun long 5.10a with a easy diheadral to a great roof problem on big holds |
| Girls With Guns | Sport | 1 | 5.10d | A long climb, one of the Tent’s best. Bouldery start to beautiful headwall |
| Ewok Stew | Sport | 1 | 5.9 | An interesting climb up awesome, dark rock. |
| Disturbed Susan | Sport | 1 | 5.10b | One of the climbs farthest to the left at the Pup Tent sector. Some funky rock to a cool roof problem |
 |
| Girls With Guns (5.10d). One of the Pup Tent's most classic climbs |
Main Elk Crag
A slightly more obscure wall, this set of cliffs within the canyon proper above Main Elk Creek see even less traffic than the Pup Tent. The routes here are more advanced than the Tent as well, and the rock quality has moments of greatness and moments of ugliness. A couple of chossy trad routes are thrown in for fun.
GETTING THERE
Main Elk Canyon is accessed from the town of New Castle (exit 105) 7 miles west of Glenwood Springs, Colorado. At the exit, turn north and cross a bridge over some railroad tracks to a four-way blinking red light. Turn left. Go 1.2 through downtown New Castle and turn right onto N. 7th Street. If you cross the creek you have gone just a little too far. Follow this road for .7 miles through a neighborhood and continue straight at the junction with Castle Valley Boulevard. After another 3.1 miles turn right onto CR 243 (Main Elk Road) which is paved. Follow this road for 6 miles until it crosses the creek and reaches a trailhead and a small parking area.
SEASON
Main Elk offers various sorts of adventures in all seasons. While the main canyon gets snowy and cold in the winter, those adept with snow travel may find the quiet trails are at their best in these sorts of conditions. The Pup Tent is a very sunny crag that is often climbable even in the dead of winter. The summertime, however, can be too hot for the south-facing cliffs, especially at the Tent, but hiking within the shady canyon is quite pleasant in the hot season. In the spring, Main Elk Creek can be very swift and the narrowest point in the canyon can be flooded, making for difficult passage.
CAMPING
| Route | Type | Pitches | Difficulty | Location/Description |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Giblet Gravy | Sport | 1 | 5.10b | A good warm-up for the area |
| Patchouli | Sport | 1 | 5.11c | A crack line over a bulge |
| Best in Show | Sport | 1 | 5.12d | Often considered the best route at the Main Elk Crag |
| Black Ball Retriever | Sport | 1 | 5.12c | A hard route with great rock. Identified by black hangers. |
| Jewel Rosena | Sport | 1 | 5.12a | Just right of a cave/roof. |
| Both Ends Burning | Sport | 1 | 5.13a | The first route to te right of where the approach trail meets the cliff |
| Infinite Jest | Sport | 1 | 5.12d | A 80 foot pitch that crosses varying rock that improves as you climb |
| Mint Jelly | Trad | 1 | 5.8+ | A good trad route, with some loose rock and choss to tiptoe around. Good protection. |
GETTING THERE
Main Elk Canyon is accessed from the town of New Castle (exit 105) 7 miles west of Glenwood Springs, Colorado. At the exit, turn north and cross a bridge over some railroad tracks to a four-way blinking red light. Turn left. Go 1.2 through downtown New Castle and turn right onto N. 7th Street. If you cross the creek you have gone just a little too far. Follow this road for .7 miles through a neighborhood and continue straight at the junction with Castle Valley Boulevard. After another 3.1 miles turn right onto CR 243 (Main Elk Road) which is paved. Follow this road for 6 miles until it crosses the creek and reaches a trailhead and a small parking area.
SEASON
Main Elk offers various sorts of adventures in all seasons. While the main canyon gets snowy and cold in the winter, those adept with snow travel may find the quiet trails are at their best in these sorts of conditions. The Pup Tent is a very sunny crag that is often climbable even in the dead of winter. The summertime, however, can be too hot for the south-facing cliffs, especially at the Tent, but hiking within the shady canyon is quite pleasant in the hot season. In the spring, Main Elk Creek can be very swift and the narrowest point in the canyon can be flooded, making for difficult passage.
 |
| Main Elk in winter |
CAMPING
Camping is illegal at the trailhead for the Main Elk area. My recommendation would be to either stay at the nearby Elk Creek Campground (just up nearby East Elk Creek) for a small fee, or backpack a short ways into Main Elk Canyon (being sure to adhere to No Trace ethic, of course).
EXTERNAL LINKS
Rifle Mountain Park and Western Colorado Climbs is an excellent guidebook not only to the world-famous crags of Rifle and the adventurous rock here in Main Elk but to the entire Roaring Fork Valley and lower Valley area. It is a must for anyone who wants to visit the area to climb. Purchase the book at local climbing shops in the area such as Summit Canyon Mountaineering or online at Wolverine Publishing’s website.
Mountainproject.com has a database with user-created beta on climbs at the Fortress of Solitude and the Pup Tent of Solitude.
Splitterchoss.com has more recent information about newer bolted routes at the Pup Tent.
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