Top 8 Busiest Colorado Peaks

Morning light on Mt. Elbert

The mountains of Colorado have become crowded. Hell, Colorado as a state has become crowded. Everyone who's tried to climb a mountain here (especially the really popular ones like Longs or Elbert) has seen just how busy they can be. Trains of humanoids zig-zagging up the mountainsides by the hundreds have become a common sight. On a busy weekend, these peaks more resemble an amusement park than a wilderness adventure. 

But just which peaks are the busiest of all? While there are no stats that tell us 100% accurately how many people attempt these peaks in a given year, we have used data from several popular websites to make our best guess.

Methodology

To create this list, we used the ticklist or summit log data from three popular mountaineering websites: listsofjohn.com, 14ers.com and Summitpost.org to create a score for each mountain based on the number of people reporting ascents of each of Colorado's 14ers. We then averaged the scores together (weighing all three websites equally) to come up with an aggregate rating which we hope indicates which peaks are the busiest.

Possibilities for Error

There are several ways in which error could be introduced with this method. For example, all three of these websites are more likely to attract mountaineering enthusiasts (people so heavily engaged in the sport they are willing to not only register for such a site but actually log their ascents), thus eliminating "casual" climbers who might be drawn to certain types of mountains, like Mount Elbert (since it is the highest point in Colorado) and Longs Peak (since it is close to Denver and located in Rocky Mountain National Park). This could potentially skew the data.

Another possible error could lie in the relative "power" of each peak. In other words, people might be more likely to report and ascent of Mount Elbert, since it is the state high point, than they are of Quandary Peak, which does not carry the same clout, resulting in under-reporting of mountains that are viewed as less interesting. Repeat ascents are also not likely to be accurately accounted for since, while all three of these websites (I believe) allow you to report repeats, most likely people are far less willing to do so.

Anyway, without further ado, here is our list of the eight busiest peaks in the state of Colorado.

Near the summit of Quandary in the snow

1. Grays Peak

It is not really a surprise that Grays Peak tops this list. With its convenient I-70 access, it relative proximity to the large Front Range cities, and its "easy" standard route, Grays Peak is about as user friendly of a 14er as there is.

2. Mount Elbert

Since Elbert is the highest peak in the state, and its standard route requires little more than a sturdy pair of legs to climb, it makes sense that it would land near the top. However, I suspect the data is skewed in Elbert's favor due to its stature and the fact that people would be more likely to report ascents of Elbert as compared to other, less famous peaks.

3. Quandary Peak and Mount Bierstadt (tie)

These two Front Range peaks came out tied in overall aggregate score. Both peaks are conveniently accessible to the Front Range big cities, and both have somewhat abbreviated routes on well-beaten trails to their summits. It is no wonder that they both two of Colorado's busiest mountains.

5. Torreys Peak

As the companion summit of Grays Peak, the inclusion of Torreys is no surprise. Since many climb these two peaks together, the difference between them is likely a result of the standard route on Grays Peak being just that much easier than Torreys, leading to a number of people making the summit of Grays but electing to turn around and not complete the route to the top of its neighbor.

6. Mount Democrat

As the first peak reached in the standard DeCaliBron (Democrat/Cameron/Lincoln/Bross) loop, Mt. Democrat is an obvious addition to this list. As with Grays, that it places higher than Lincoln, Cameron or Bross is indicative of the fact that it is usually the first of the 4-mountain loop to be climbed and not everyone is successful in completing the tour.

7. Mount Lincoln

Since we did not count Cameron (it is not a "ranked" peak) Mount Lincoln is the second peak of the Decalibron and it makes sense that it would score just a hair lower than Democrat on the aggregate rank. 

8. Longs Peak

The North Face of Longs Peak from the Boulderfield

I was surprised not to see Longs higher on this list. The immense popularity of the Keyhole Route always seemed a cut above the others. However, it is a more difficult mountain, and more dangerous than any of the others on the list. In addition, one has to wonder how many of the people who climb this mountain fall into the aforementioned "casual" hiker group and were drawn to this peak due to its position within Rocky Mountain National Park but were not likely to register for one of the three websites used for our raw data.

Honorable Mentions
The following peaks nearly made the list: Evans, Pikes, Sherman, Bross and Massive.

So which peak was the least popular? While a "Top 8 Least Popular 14ers" may make an interesting topic for another post, it appears that (we didn't run the bottom peaks through the same number crunch) the least busy 14er in Colorado is the only one you have to pay an exorbitant fee to climb: Culebra.  

Popular or not, these mountains represent some of the most beautiful high peaks in the state and are all worthy to climb despite the crowds. Hike them, enjoy them, take care of them. Just don't go up there expecting privacy....

RELATED POSTS
-The Ranked 14ers
-10 Mountains You Probably Haven't Climbed But Should
-14ers the Hard Way
-10 Class 3 Colorado Mountaineering Classics
-10 Class 5 Colorado Mountaineering Classics

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Summary and Analysis of 2016 Mountaineering Deaths in Colorado

Why do we take such risks to climb in Colorado's mountains? It is a question non-climbing friends inevitably ask me every time news circulates of another accident or death in the Colorado mountains. Why would I put my life in jeopardy just for the thrill of a summit? They say it is selfish to the ones I love back home to risk so much just for my own gratification. Some even say it is stupid. The answer is not always easy.

Screenshot from a video showing a rescue on North Maroon in 2013

Life is full of risk. And without risk there is no reward. Climbing enhances my life, it is one of the things that helps remind me of why life is worth living in the first place. I don't climb with a death wish, and I always have full confidence I will return to the trailhead alive. I strive to make the best decisions and minimize the dangers of any particular climb. And now, as I have grown a bit older and have more responsibility I have found myself slightly less willing to accept those risks.

Still, however, the world isn't safe. Climbing and mountaineering is full of hazards, both objective and subjective. This can go wrong in an instant. A rock can break, the hills can slide, and, yes, I can make a terribly bad decision. But the same is true while driving on the highway: an errant driver can steer my direction, a patch of unseen ice can appear seemingly from nowhere, or I can take my eyes off the road for a fateful second to fiddle with the radio. Does that mean I should never drive? Does that mean I should never climb?

With record numbers of people venturing into Colorado's mountains, the number who don't make it back is statistically quite small. It shows that most people are careful and smart about their time in the mountains. And even those that aren't seem remarkably lucky. For those that don't come back, there are always lessons to be learned for the rest of us, and those lessons can, hopefully, prevent a future tragedy from taking place.

The following is a list of people who died climbing Colorado's mountains in 2016. Though I did my best to research this grim topic, the list may not be complete. I apologize to the memories of anyone I may have missed. And if anyone knows of other incidents, I would add them in the hopes that we can learn what lessons we can for next season. As always you may email me with concerns at Coloradomountaineering2010@gmail.com I will do my best to reply.

SUMMARY OF MOUNTAINEERING DEATHS IN COLORADO DURING 2016

January 19- Ron Webber, a 58-year-old man from Florida died while on a "mountaineering trek" near Chasm Lake at the base of Longs Peak after a fall of nearly 200 feet. It is unclear if Webber was attempting to climb the mountain or merely out for a hike. Webber had visited Longs Peak before, though never in the winter. Little is known about the specifics of this tragedy as he was climbing alone and did not leave any information behind.

The Maroon Bells as seen from Pyramid Peak. The
"Deadly Bells" have been the sight of many deaths and
rescues over the years, including two more in 2016

July 10- Stephen Hunt, a 55-year-old man from Parker, Colorado, died after falling on Crestone Needle. Hunt was a highly experienced mountaineer who had climbed all of Colorado's 14ers (some several times) and was actively working on the "Centennial" list, Colorado's 100 highest peaks. Crestone Needle is considered by many to be one of Colorado's most difficult 14ers.

August 3- James Beckerich, a 70-year old man from Pennsylvania, died from a fall while descending from a failed attempt to climb 13,554-foot Fluted Peak in the Sangre De Cristo Mountains. Beckerich was an experienced mountaineer who had been a part of failed Everest and Aconcagua expeditions and was training for a climb in Washington State. He had previously summitted many prestigious mountains.

August 24- Eric Poehlman, a 46 year-old man from Vermont, died near the summit of Mt. Harvard of a heart attack. This is not an accident per se but an example of how the added pressures of altitude and exertion can exacerbate pre-existing health conditions that you may or may not know are present. He was an experienced 14er climber who had summitted 47 of Colorado's highest mountains.

September 7- Steve Sprowles, a 68-year-old man from Conifer, Colorado, died after a fall on North Maroon Peak. The Maroon Bells have earned their nickname "The Deadly Bells" and it seems at least one death occurs there every year. The rock is very loose and steep and their beauty makes them a popular destination for aspiring summitters, some of whom misjudge the objective dangers posed by these dramatic peaks.

September 20- Dave Cook, a 49-year-old man from New Mexico disappeared while attempting to complete the notoriously dangerous Maroon Peak-North Maroon Peak traverse. It is possible he was also trying to add Pyramid Peak as well. This disturbing incident is particularly troublesome because Cook has never been located. It is difficult to know exactly what happened to him. The Bells Traverse is a very difficult and treacherous route and Pyramid Peak is almost as dangerous. Attempting these mountains alone adds to the risk of such an endeavor. Dave's family has created a facebook page for anyone that might possibly have knowledge of his whereabouts.

October 1- Scott Corliss, a 61-year-old physician from Greeley, Colorado, died after a fall on the Narrows section of the popular Keyhole Route of Longs Peak. The conditions on this day were reported as icy. This section of the highly popular route is quite exposed and has been the site of at least five deaths over the years according to a post on Alan Arnette's website covering this incident.

CONCLUSIONS:

Walking the infamous Knife Edge on Capitol Peak, a peak
that has caused a number of fatalities over the years

It is hard to know what to conclude from the seven deaths reported above. One thing that jumps out at me immediately is that all of the deaths were men over the age of 46 years old. But what do we do with this? Is it just a reflection of the demographic that climbs mountains in Colorado? Does it illuminate the risk-taking nature of men as opposed to women? Or is it just a statistical anomaly?

It is also worth noting that three of the seven victims were from Colorado and the other four were from out of state and that six of the seven occurred on or near 14ers. These stats illuminate the growing popularity of "ticking off" Colorado's highest peaks not just with locals but people from out of state as well. Several of the climbers listed above were also highly experienced, which shows how it is not just the foolish or the inexperienced that get into trouble in the mountains.

In the end, we each choose to venture into the mountains full-knowing the risks that we are taking. The high places of the world are not meant for human habitation. Gravity pulls strongly from the steep, broken slopes of these majestic mountains. We learn what we can from accidents of the past and continue to venture forth in the aim of self-enhancement. It is up to us to determine if that hope is worth the level of risk we assume.

Stay safe out there!

RELATED STORIES
-Statistical Analysis of 14er Deaths in Colorado This Decade

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2017 Colorado Mountaineering Calendar Now Available!

The 2017 Colorado Mountaineering calendar is now available from the Lulu bookstore. Makes a great gift or stocking stuffer for your mountaineering, climbing or scenery-gazing loved one. Includes images of Longs Peak, Mount of the Holy Cross, Conundrum Peak, the Grenadier Range, the Gore Range, the Flat Tops and more. Retailed at the reasonable rate of $14.99. Order now and receive it before Christmas! You can preview or purchase this item here at the Lulu.com book store or click on the following icon:

**UPDATE** As the new year rapidly approaches, the 2017 Colorado Mountaineering calendar has now been marked down 20%!! Act now to still receive yours before 2017 begins!**

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NEWS (7/11/2015): Andrew Hamilton Breaks 14ers Speed Record

Andrew Hamilton has broken the speed record by climbing all of Colorado's 14,000 foot peaks in 9 days, 21 hours and 51 minutes. This incredible feat speaks to the possibilities of human endurance, determination and pure athleticism. Hamilton completed the historic achievement on Longs Peak thursday morning on Longs Peak. Congratulations on an inspiring achievement.

Longs Peak with the Diamond and North Face visible from the Boulderfield where
Andrew Hamilton broke the speed record for climbing all of Colorado's 14,000-foot peaks

Check out an interview with Hamilton on 9news.com

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Video: The Casual Route (IV 5.10a)

No pro or big name climbers, but this video takes a good look at the Casual Route (IV 5.10a) on Longs Peak's world-famous Diamond. The Casual Route is the easiest route on this classic face:

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VIDEO: Diamond in the Rain

Rain and a rescue hamper Tommy Caldwell and Jonathan Siegrist while they work on their free version of Dunn-Westbay on the Diamond of Longs Peak. Caldwell later returned with Joe Mills to send the climb, rating the second pitch 5.14a.

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NEWS: UPDATED: Climbers Stranded on Longs Peak (9/13/13)

Mt. Meeker, Longs Peak and the Loft where two
mountain climbers became stranded yesterday morning.
A rescue attempt was planned for today

In the middle all of the chaos of the Front Range floods, two women have become stranded and are in need of rescue on Longs Peak. According to the page started on tumblr.com by the sister of one of the climbers, Connie Yang and Suzanne Turell became stuck on Longs Peak in a "Whiteout snow storm" yesterday. The sister received a series of text messages from the pair stating that they were stranded at 13,400 feet because everything on the mountain had become iced over. According to the text messages they are on the "South Ridge...South East of Peak...Near the Notch". The women have a tent and are not injured but wrote that they are at risk for hypothermia. Reports have stated that rangers are going to attempt a rescue but it has been difficult to get anyone to the trailhead due to numerous road closures. Bad weather and low visibility have also made it impossible to fly a rescue helicopter.

The stranded women have come at a bad time for authorities in the area who are dealing with record rainfall and horrific flooding. The cities of Boulder, Lyons, Fort Collins, and others have been pounded by incessant rainfall the past few days, leading to record flooding and widespread destruction. The entire town of Lyons has been evacuated as of this morning with the National Guard coming in to help get everyone out of the stranded town.

UPDATED: 9News is reporting that rescue teams were able to get the two women safely off the mountain. We are highly relieved to hear this story has a happy ending and our thoughts are still with those affected by this large-scale weather disaster.

A video showing some of the record flooding in Big Thompson Canyon, which right now (9/13/13) is even higher than during the historic 1976 flood that killed 143 people:



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NEWS: Tommy Caldwell and Joe Mills Establish Diamond's Hardest Line (5.14a)

Longs Peak, Mt. Meeker and the Diamond

Tommy Caldwell and Joe Mills have established the hardest line on the Diamond, rating their free version of Dunn-Westbay 5.14a. They climbed the route in four long pitches from Broadway, the major ledge that forms the bottom of the Diamond proper. According to the report on climbing.com, the four pitches went at 5.10+, 5.14a, 5.13a, and 5.12b.

The original Dunn-Westbay route was put up in 1972 and graded 5.10 A3. Two years ago, Josh Wharton freed the line at 5.13b, though he took substantial variations on the first pitch. Caldwell and Mills wanted to free climb a line that was more true to the original conception of the route.

Visit this link to watch a video of Caldwell working the route

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Video: Tommy Caldwell Works Longs Peak's Diamond First 5.14

Tommy Caldwell working his new 5.14 free version of Dunn-Westbay on Colorado's Diamond, an 800-foot granite face entirely over 13,000 feet in Elevation. 

Related: Diamond in the Rain- Caldwell and Siegrist also working this project while being hampered by rain, thunder and a major rescue.


Tommy Caldwell Testing The New 9.1mm Bluewater Icon from Cedar Wright on Vimeo.

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Ten Class 5 Colorado Mountaineering Classics

Longs Peak, Mount Meeker, & the Diamond. Shows
Pervertical, Kiener's and The Flying Buttress

There is nothing more exciting than a technical alpine route. The adventure, the scenery, the danger all combine to make for the ultimate challenge for a mountaineer. High, hard and exposed, these mountaineering classics demand such a level of expertise that they shine above all others in the minds of the climbers and alpinists who live in and visit this state. The following list would be an ambitious ticklist of some of the most famous, and most fun technical alpine climbs on a high peak in Colorado.

It is difficult to go about creating a list like this, as so many opinions exist about each and every one of these routes. I started by first establishing several criteria to reduce the number of worthy candidates to a manageable category. For example, I decided that to be included as a "mountaineering classic" the climb must be a summit route on a mountain higher than 12,000 feet. This eliminated many of Colorado's most classic lines such as The Naked Edge (6 pitches, 5.11b) in Eldorado Canyon, Otto's Route (4 pitches, 5.9) on Independence Monument outside Grand Junction, as well as anything in The Black Canyon or at Lumpy Ridge, etc. All of these climbs were worthy of being listed as Colorado Classics, but were they mountaineering? I considered expanding my criteria to include. But really, they didn't quite fit what I was looking for. I wanted to look at alpine routes, the kind that require a grueling approach and reach the top of a high peak. There seemed to be an intellectual line that defined what "mountaineering" meant, and the need for a strict definition waned.

Sunlight Spire (13,995') (5.10c)
With the 1988 datum bumping up the elevations on most mountains in Colorado, Sunlight Spire now just barely touches the 14,000' mark. However, most mountaineers still refer to the classic 1927 datum, so the Spire is usually still listed at 13,995'. Though it does not have 300 feet of topographical prominence, it holds the title as the hardest 14,000 foot summit in Colorado (if you adhere to the 1988 datum), perhaps in the entire United States. Sunlight Spire is a coveted and elusive summit for the true Colorado mountaineering master.

Vestal Peak and Wham Ridge

Vestal Peak (13,864')-Wham Ridge (Center Shift) (5.6)
The unique profile of Vestal Peak's Wham Ridge is unmistakable. It is one of Colorado's most beautiful and most astounding high alpine faces. While the standard Wham Ridge line alone is quality enough to warrant inclusion in this list of classics, the so-called "Center Shift," or direct variation, is the best way to experience the full value of this amazing mountain.

Hallett Peak (12,713')- Culp-Bossier (8 pitches, 5.8+)
The Culp-Bossier route is one of the classic alpine moderates. Located in Rocky Mountain National Park, this little mountain offers big adventure and big rewards. 8 pitches of good climbing including mostly solid rock, runout sections, and some solid "old school" 5.8.

Longs Peak (14,255')- Kiener's Route (5.4, moderate snow)
In my opinion, other than the Diamond, Kiener's Route is the best way to take on Longs Peak. Kiener's is an involved climb, with a long approach, a steep snow couloir, tremendous exposure, a little technical rock and a lot of route-finding. It's other name, The Mountaineer's Route, was given for the multiple skills necessary for a successful ascent.

Jagged Mountain (13,824')- Standard Route (5.2)
Jagged Mountain should be one of Colorado's most coveted mountaineering prizes. It is deep in the wilderness, impossible to see from almost any vantage in civilization, has an amazing route to the top, and is one of Colorado's 100 highest. There is exposure, loose rock, and patience necessary to make an ascent of this unique peak possible. It takes a broad spectrum of mountaineering and backcountry skills to climb reticent Jagged.

Climbers on the Longs Peak's Diamond

Longs Peak (14,255')- Pervertical Sanctuary (IV 5.10c)
Any one of the routes on Longs Peak's Diamond deserve to be here. I picked Pervertical Sanctuary for this list. It is the second-easiest way up the Diamond and one of the highest quality in terms of rock and position. Does Longs Peak deserve two routes listed here on this page? It probably deserves more....

Crestone Needle (14,197')- Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
A mega classic that would deserve to be listed here even if it had not been included in the famous book Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. Other than the numerous routes on Longs this is one of the best technical climbs on any 14er in Colorado. First climbed in 1925 by legendary Albert Ellingwood, this route is steeped in history. It is also very high quality and worth making this list.

Mount Meeker (13,911')- The Flying Buttress (6 pitches, 5.9+)
The Flying Buttress on Mount Meeker is yet another classic alpine climb in Rocky Mountain National Park. This excellent route follows a salient feature on the Meeker side of the world-class Longs/Meeker cirque that includes Longs Peak's east face and the Diamond. This route is a worthy objective of its own, easier than the Diamond but harder than many other of the classic RMNP climbs.

Petit Grepon (12,000')- South Face (8 pitches, 5.8)
This slender alpine tower was also included in Fifty Classic Climbs, thus cementing its place in the canon of Colorado mountaineering. Besides being a part of this exclusive club, this mountain is fully worthy of being listed as one of the best alpine mountaineering routes in the state in terms of the quality of its rock and of its position. Just don't climb on a weekend or risk having to wait in line for your ascent.

Kit Carson (14,165')- The Prow (5.8)
The Prow is one of the more interesting and unique features on any Colorado mountain. It is an exposed, aesthetic ridgeline that dances up typical Sangre conglomerate cobbles. While most of the route is 5.6 or easier, the crux comes as the first move, committing you to the route. Escape is difficult and the exposure is amazing. A true alpine classic.

RELATED ARTICLES
Ten Class 3 Colorado Classics- for those too timid or too inexperienced for the class 5 list, check out these classic class 3 scrambles.

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Ten Class 3 Colorado Classics

There is something fun about class 3. The thrill of climbing meets the freedom of not (usually) needing a rope. I have always enjoyed this grade. I feel mostly comfortable but it occupies my mind more than the long, grunt climbs of the easier class 2 peaks. This article is a toast to the great class 3 scrambles of Colorado.

The Sawtooth Ridge between Evans and Bierstadt

Mt. Bierstadt/Mt. Evans- The Sawtooth
The Sawtooth is a classic alpine ridge that connects two popular 14ers, Mt. Bierstadt and Mt. Evans. After ascending to the top of Bierstadt, this amazing ridge is immediately apparent, and nearly impossible looking. The long, engaging scramble is what makes this route a classic, ending in an exposed ledge that provides reasonable access to the west face of Mt. Evans.

Longs Peak- The Keyhole
No mountain deserves the designation of "classic" more than Longs Peak and no route in Colorado is climbed more often than the Keyhole. Although the approach hike is long, the effort to climb the Keyhole is well worth the trouble. Once you have passed through the Keyhole, the rest of the route is beautiful, exposed and classic. This climb's main detraction, however, is the sheer number of people who attempt this climb. However, if you can get past the crowds, this is truly one of Colorado's best scrambles.

Crestone Peak- The South Face
The South Face of Crestone Peak perhaps the best route on one of Colorado's best mountains. Crestone Peak is a dramatic mountain. The South Face is astounding route with great exposure, fantastic position and a plethora of high-quality class 3 scrambling.

Crestone Needle- The South Face
Crestone Needle along with its companion Crestone Needle form two of Colorado's most rugged and dramatic peaks. The South Face of Crestone Needle is a mega classic, with great sscrambling, engaging route-finding and some tremendous exposure. It is highly recommended by the writers of Colorado Mountaineering to do both the South Face of the Peak and the South Face of the Needle on a single trip, perhaps with a backpack basecamp at Cottonwood or South Colony Lakes.

Snowmass Peak & Snowmass Lake

Snowmass Mountain- East Slopes
Snowmass Mountain is one of my favorite Colorado 14ers and this route takes you through an amazing place. A long alpine approach leads to Snowmass Lake, one of the most dramatic and breathtaking lakes of its size you will find anywhere. From here the route is thrilling. You ascend a long slope of class 2+ before finding a notch through a sharp ridge. The last few hundred feet is loose but engaging class 3.


Mt. Meeker- The Loft
Mt. Meeker (13,911') shares a ridgeline and a dramatic alpine cirque with Longs Peak. The Loft Route on Mt. Meeker takes you through this famous and classic alpine destination via a moderate class 3 scramble. The final ridge after climbing to the Loft is exposed a dramatic, finishing in an astonishing move to the summit block.

Mt. Sneffels Southwest Ridge
Mt. Sneffels is one of the San Juan's most popular mountains and for good reason. It is beautiful and well featured. Even the class 2 standard southeast ridge route is excellent and lively. The Southwest Ridge, however, is a classic route with long section of stout class 3, beautiful scenery, and excellent exposed positions. This route is one of my favorite class 3 scrambles. If weather moves in or time becomes an issue, you can descend the easier and faster standard route.

Relaxing on Sneffels Southwest Ridge route

Torreys Peak- Kelso Ridge
This Front Range classic is a great way to get a little solitude and make a little more of a mountain that is known for being easy. In general, Kelso is a mellow scramble but with a few cruxes that will get your attention. The knife-edge of Kelso, at the very end, is not the most difficult section, but often gets the most press. This exposed section is short lived but will get your attention. It is a good place to warm-up for more exposed and difficult climbing on other Colorado peaks.

Wetterhorn- Southeast Ridge
This standard route on Wetterhorn in Colorado's San Juan Range ranks as one of the best and most exciting class 3 scrambles. This route up Wetterhorn is relatively short, fun, and ends with an exciting scramble to an excellent summit. This excellent climb on this excellent is certainly worthy of this list.

La Plata Peak- Ellingwood Ridge
La Plata was my first 14er, and therefore will always have a special place in my heart. The Ellingwood Ridge route, however, is quite likely the best, and most complicated class 3 route on all of Colorado's 14ers. This route will challenge all but the most hardened of mountaineers with its long, snakelike ridge and devious up and down scrambling. This ridgeline is famous, and time consuming, so don't take it lightly. There are almost infinite variations which allow you to customize the difficulty of your climb. The easiest route is class 3 but you can easily make it class 5 with a more direct line.

The Ellingwood Ridge from La Plata's summit 

RELATED ARTICLES
Ten Class 5 Colorado Mountaineering Classics- is this list too tame for you? Check out or list of ten classic technical (class 5) routes on Colorado's high peaks.
Five Hardest 14er Cruxes- Five of the hardest cruxes on the standard routes of any 14er. Included: the Knife Edge on Capitol, the Leap of Faith on Sunlight, the Hourglass on Little Bear and others.

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PEAK OF THE WEEK: Longs Peak

Introduction

Longs Peak is perhaps Colorado’s most famous and traveled mountain, and for good reason. Longs offers a variety of routes in many difficulty levels. Almost every one of Longs’ routes are classics. From the class 3 ultra-popular scramble of the Keyhole Route to the mixed snow and rock mountaineering masterpiece Kiener’s Route (II 5.3 Moderate Snow) to the alpine wall classics of the Diamond like the Casual Route (IV 5.10a) and Ariana (IV 5.12a). These are only a very small sampling of the many established routes on Longs Peak.

Situated in Rocky Mountain National Park just northwest of Estes Park, Colorado, Longs Peak bears a high profile. It is visible from many Front Range vantages. The classic cirque of Longs' and neighboring Mt. Meeker’s east faces forms one of Colorado’s iconic mountain profiles. This amazing set of vertical cliffs and steep buttresses is visible from Highway 7 far below. No mountaineer can stare up at Longs’ elegant features and not be filled with wonder.

How to Get There

From the intersection of Highway 36 and Highway 7 near Estes Park, follow Highway 7 south for 9.2 miles to the Longs Peak Trailhead. There is a campground here with about 25 sites, though it is often full. Unless you arrive at the trailhead very early, you may find the parking lot also full. By late morning cars line the road for a half mile or more down from the parking lot. The last time I climbed Longs we arrived at 1:30 in the morning and the lot was nearly empty. This trailhead is the main access for most of Longs Peaks most popular routes including the Keyhole and all routes on the Diamond and the East Face.

Routes

A partial list of Longs’ many routes in order of difficulty:

Keyhole Route (II 3^rd class)

The Loft (II 3^rd class)

Northwest Couloir (II 5.0)

Notch Couloir (II 5.2 Steep Snow)

North Face (Old Cables) (II 5.4)

Kiener’s Route (Mountaineer’s Route) (II 5.4 Moderate Snow)

Alexander’s Chimney (III 5.5)

Keyhole Ridge (III 5.6)

Stettner’s Ledges (III 5.7)

Casual Route (IV 5.10a)

Pervertical Santuary (IV 5.10c)

Yellow Wall (IV 5.11a)

Ariana (IV 5.12a)

A closer look at some of Longs more popular routes:

Easy: Keyhole Route (class 3)

The Keyhole Ridge with the Keyhole visible right-center

The Keyhole Route is Longs easiest and most popular route. Many thousands of hikers and scramblers do this route every year. Although it is a non-technical route, the class 3 terrain requires the use of hands for balance and upward movement and the rock is loose, and quite exposed. Snow or ice in the spring or storms in the summer can make this a serious route. The loose rock combined with the exposure and sheer volume of people on this route have made it one of the deadliest routes in Colorado. It seems that more deaths occur on this route than any other in the state.

From the Longs Peak trailhead, follow the trail for 6 miles to the Boulder Field at 12,800’. Cross the boulderfield aiming for a keyhole shaped notch in the cliffband on the right (west) side of the north face. The main flow of the trail and most cairns will lead you to this obvious notch. Once you cross through the Keyhole the nature of the route changes and gets much more difficult and exposed, making this a good place to turn around if the weather looks like it is turning.

After the Keyhole scramble along increasing exposure to the Trough, a long gully littered with loose rocks and the occasional class 3 move. Ascend the Trough for about 500 feet and pass a chockstone on either side. Many consider this the most difficult move on the route. Past the Trough continue along the Narrows, a skinny ledge that pinches in several spots to 5 feet or less above a three-hundred foot cliff. The climbing is exposed but easy. Reach the bottom of the Homestretch at the end of the Narrows. Climb a ledgy crack system and arrive abruptly on the flat summit from the south side.

Moderate: Kiener’s Route (II 5.4 Moderate Snow)

The turnoff to Chasm Lake. Upper Kiener's is visible

Kiener’s Route is a spectacular alpine journey that tackles Longs’ amazing East Face without taking on the Diamond directly. It is long, exposed and difficult and requires knowledge of both snow and rock climbing. Despite its modest technical rating, Kiener’s is a committing route that is not to be taken lightly. Approach this route with respect.

Follow the Longs Peak trail for 3.5 miles to the turnoff for Chasm Meadows. Leave the main trail and take the turn left towards Chasm Lake and Longs Peaks astounding East Face. Hike for another mile to Chasm Lake; with the Diamond and the Lower East Face towering above you, you know you are in a special place.

Hike around to the back side of Chasm to Mills Glacier (more a permanent snow field) and find the Lamb’s Slide, a steep couloir that ascends toward the Loft. Ascend moderate snow here for nearly a thousand feet. Conditions at the Lamb’s Slide can vary from good snow to steep rotten ice. Depending on which you encounter you may need either pickets or ice screws or both. Crampons and an ice axe are highly recommended.

Ascend Lamb’s Slide to where Broadway’s ledges intersect on right. Take the highest ledge. Hike along Broad way with increasing exposure until you reach the first of the route’s crux moves, a very narrows step around with dramatic exposure over the lower East Face. Many people choose to rope up here. Past this move continue to the base of the Notch Couloir.

Climb the Notch Couloir for about 40 feet and traverse right to a dihedral or pass the base of the couloir and climb rock on its right side. Either way you will encounter a pitch or two of low 5^th class climbing. After passing a chimney, continue along the face staying near but not right on the edge of the Diamond’s upper edge. The exposure continues to be amazing. Near the top do a step-around near the Diamond’s apex and continue up easy scrambling to the summit. Descend with some rappels down the North Face route or scramble down the Keyhole to descend.

Hard: The Casual Route (IV 5.10a)

The Diamond from Chasm View

Along with Wyoming’s Grand Teton, the Diamond on Longs Peak’s east face is the most sought-after destination for alpine climbing in the Lower 48. Being the easiest way to ascend this amazing thousand-foot cliff, the Casual Route is justifiably popular and classic.

Follow the Longs Peak trail to Chasm Meadows and take the turn to Chasm Lake. Hike around the back of Chasm Lake to base of the obvious cliff, the easy part of the approach is over.  In the center of Longs’s East Face, located the North Chimney, a weakness that leads up to Broadway. Scramble, simul-climb and belay up three to four rope-lengths of moderate but notoriously loose 5.easy to 5.6 climbing to Broadway, an obvious ledge system. Now you are at the base of the climb.

P1- Climb a left-facing corner up easy rock in the middle of the D1 pillar to the base of an obvious crack. (5.4)

P2- Follow a nice crack (fingers to hands) to a possible belay stance below the infamous “flakes traverse”. Some people stop and belay here and some prefer to link and the next pitch together (5.9).

P3- The infamous traverse. Climb up and left on good holds with somewhat scant protection. It is often said that both leader and follower are on the sharp end on this pitch due to the fall potential and traversing nature. (5.7).

P4- At a spacious ledge, gain a good handcrack dihedral. Climb a long pitch to a stance near the top of the dihedral. (5.8+).

P5- Finish the dihedral and belay from the Yellow Wall bivy ledge. (5.8).

P6- The crux pitch. From the right side of the ledge, stem up a corner, negotiate a chimney and reach the crux bulge. Pull the bulge and belay at the Table Ledge. There are many pieces of fixed gear here and it is easy to rest or pull this crux with some A0. (5.10a)

P7- Traverse up and left along the Table Ledge to Upper Kiener’s Route (5.8). Follow Upper Kiener’s to the summit.

Descent: With ropes you can scramble down the North Face to a set of eyebolts. Two or three single rope raps lands you at a brief downscramble to the Boulderfield. You can also scramble down the standard Keyhole route.

LINKS

-National Park Service webcam of Longs Peak

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Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
For information about how to contact us, visit this link

FEATURED ROUTE: Longs Peak North Face (Old Cables Route)

The North Face of Longs Peak

Miles: 14

Difficulty: II 5.4 (YDS)

pitches: 2

The North Face of Longs Peak, also known as the Old Cables or just the Cables route, is a good alpine route and the most direct way to reach the summit of Longs Peak from the Boulderfield. The North Face is a technical route of modest difficulty with minimal 5th class terrain. It is often used as a descent route for climbers who have used other technical routes such as Kiener's, the Keyhole Ridge, or any route on the Diamond. With two short rappels it is the quickest way back to the Boulderfield from the summit.

Begin at the Longs Peak trailhead and hike up a winding, good trail through a lush forest. Go left at an intersection at mile .5 and left again at mile 2.5. At mile 3.5 you reach the turnoff for Chasm Lake and a solar-powered toilet. Stay right and continue above treeline to the Boulderfield (12,800') at mile 6. Proceed across the boulderfield past the bivvy sites (permit required) and past two more solar-powered toilets. Longs' North Face now towers above you.

Veer away from the main trail and head towards the bottom left corner of the north face. Slog up steep talus to the base of the slabs at Chasm View. Take a minute to peak over the edge and get an eagle's view of the Diamond. Find the obvious ramp/dihedral marked by an eyebolt halfway up and begin to climb. While some climbers can free solo (climb without a rope) most climbers will bring a smattering of small cams, nuts, and hexes. You can also sling eyebolts to help protect this pitch. Climb 5.4 climbing to the fourth eyebolt and belay. Remember this spot, this is where you will start your rappel.



From the eyebolt, do an ascending traverse to the left up loose, broken class 3. Careful route-finding should avoid any class 4. Arrive on the summit from the opposite side of most of the people you will encounter up there.

Descent

Pick your way back down the North Face until you find the fourth eyebolt (as counted from the bottom). Rappel 70' to another eyebolt. Do a second rappel to the bottom of the crux pitch at another eyebolt. Scramble down 4th class terrain or rappel to the talus below.

LINKS

-Tommy Caldwell Establishes first 5.14 on the Diamond
-National Park Service webcam of Longs Peak

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

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Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link