Showing posts with label Crestone Needle. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Crestone Needle. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 7, 2016

Summary and Analysis of 2016 Mountaineering Deaths in Colorado

Why do we take such risks to climb in Colorado's mountains? It is a question non-climbing friends inevitably ask me every time news circulates of another accident or death in the Colorado mountains. Why would I put my life in jeopardy just for the thrill of a summit? They say it is selfish to the ones I love back home to risk so much just for my own gratification. Some even say it is stupid. The answer is not always easy.

Helicopter performs a rescue on Colorado's Maroon Bells
Screenshot from a video showing a rescue on North Maroon in 2013
Life is full of risk. And without risk there is no reward. Climbing enhances my life, it is one of the things that helps remind me of why life is worth living in the first place. I don't climb with a death wish, and I always have full confidence I will return to the trailhead alive. I strive to make the best decisions and minimize the dangers of any particular climb. And now, as I have grown a bit older and have more responsibility I have found myself slightly less willing to accept those risks.

Still, however, the world isn't safe. Climbing and mountaineering is full of hazards, both objective and subjective. This can go wrong in an instant. A rock can break, the hills can slide, and, yes, I can make a terribly bad decision. But the same is true while driving on the highway: an errant driver can steer my direction, a patch of unseen ice can appear seemingly from nowhere, or I can take my eyes off the road for a fateful second to fiddle with the radio. Does that mean I should never drive? Does that mean I should never climb?

With record numbers of people venturing into Colorado's mountains, the number who don't make it back is statistically quite small. It shows that most people are careful and smart about their time in the mountains. And even those that aren't seem remarkably lucky. For those that don't come back, there are always lessons to be learned for the rest of us, and those lessons can, hopefully, prevent a future tragedy from taking place.

The following is a list of people who died climbing Colorado's mountains in 2016. Though I did my best to research this grim topic, the list may not be complete. I apologize to the memories of anyone I may have missed. And if anyone knows of other incidents, I would add them in the hopes that we can learn what lessons we can for next season. As always you may email me with concerns at Coloradomountaineering2010@gmail.com I will do my best to reply.

SUMMARY OF MOUNTAINEERING DEATHS IN COLORADO DURING 2016

January 19- Ron Webber, a 58-year-old man from Florida died while on a "mountaineering trek" near Chasm Lake at the base of Longs Peak after a fall of nearly 200 feet. It is unclear if Webber was attempting to climb the mountain or merely out for a hike. Webber had visited Longs Peak before, though never in the winter. Little is known about the specifics of this tragedy as he was climbing alone and did not leave any information behind.

The Maroon Bells as seen from Pyramid Peak. The
"Deadly Bells" have been the sight of many deaths and
rescues over the years, including two more in 2016
July 10- Stephen Hunt, a 55-year-old man from Parker, Colorado, died after falling on Crestone Needle. Hunt was a highly experienced mountaineer who had climbed all of Colorado's 14ers (some several times) and was actively working on the "Centennial" list, Colorado's 100 highest peaks. Crestone Needle is considered by many to be one of Colorado's most difficult 14ers.

August 3- James Beckerich, a 70-year old man from Pennsylvania, died from a fall while descending from a failed attempt to climb 13,554-foot Fluted Peak in the Sangre De Cristo Mountains. Beckerich was an experienced mountaineer who had been a part of failed Everest and Aconcagua expeditions and was training for a climb in Washington State. He had previously summitted many prestigious mountains.

August 24- Eric Poehlman, a 46 year-old man from Vermont, died near the summit of Mt. Harvard of a heart attack. This is not an accident per se but an example of how the added pressures of altitude and exertion can exacerbate pre-existing health conditions that you may or may not know are present. He was an experienced 14er climber who had summitted 47 of Colorado's highest mountains.

September 7- Steve Sprowles, a 68-year-old man from Conifer, Colorado, died after a fall on North Maroon Peak. The Maroon Bells have earned their nickname "The Deadly Bells" and it seems at least one death occurs there every year. The rock is very loose and steep and their beauty makes them a popular destination for aspiring summitters, some of whom misjudge the objective dangers posed by these dramatic peaks.

September 20- Dave Cook, a 49-year-old man from New Mexico disappeared while attempting to complete the notoriously dangerous Maroon Peak-North Maroon Peak traverse. It is possible he was also trying to add Pyramid Peak as well. This disturbing incident is particularly troublesome because Cook has never been located. It is difficult to know exactly what happened to him. The Bells Traverse is a very difficult and treacherous route and Pyramid Peak is almost as dangerous. Attempting these mountains alone adds to the risk of such an endeavor. Dave's family has created a facebook page for anyone that might possibly have knowledge of his whereabouts.

October 1- Scott Corliss, a 61-year-old physician from Greeley, Colorado, died after a fall on the Narrows section of the popular Keyhole Route of Longs Peak. The conditions on this day were reported as icy. This section of the highly popular route is quite exposed and has been the site of at least five deaths over the years according to a post on Alan Arnette's website covering this incident.

CONCLUSIONS:

Walking the infamous Knife Edge on Capitol Peak, a peak
that has caused a number of fatalities over the years
It is hard to know what to conclude from the seven deaths reported above. One thing that jumps out at me immediately is that all of the deaths were men over the age of 46 years old. But what do we do with this? Is it just a reflection of the demographic that climbs mountains in Colorado? Does it illuminate the risk-taking nature of men as opposed to women? Or is it just a statistical anomaly?

It is also worth noting that three of the seven victims were from Colorado and the other four were from out of state and that six of the seven occurred on or near 14ers. These stats illuminate the growing popularity of "ticking off" Colorado's highest peaks not just with locals but people from out of state as well. Several of the climbers listed above were also highly experienced, which shows how it is not just the foolish or the inexperienced that get into trouble in the mountains.

In the end, we each choose to venture into the mountains full-knowing the risks that we are taking. The high places of the world are not meant for human habitation. Gravity pulls strongly from the steep, broken slopes of these majestic mountains. We learn what we can from accidents of the past and continue to venture forth in the aim of self-enhancement. It is up to us to determine if that hope is worth the level of risk we assume.

Stay safe out there!

RELATED STORIES
-Statistical Analysis of 14er Deaths in Colorado This Decade

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Tuesday, October 8, 2013

VIDEO: Ellingwood Arete

A comprehensive look at the Ellingwood Arete (also called the Ellingwood Ledges) on Crestone Needle. The Ellingwood Arete was included in the famous guideboook Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and thus maintains a certain dignity and respect in the climbing community abroad. This is a good and challenging climb and this gives you an idea what it entails:







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Sunday, June 30, 2013

Ten Class 5 Colorado Mountaineering Classics

Longs Peak, Mount Meeker, & the Diamond. Shows
Pervertical, Kiener's and The Flying Buttress
There is nothing more exciting than a technical alpine route. The adventure, the scenery, the danger all combine to make for the ultimate challenge for a mountaineer. High, hard and exposed, these mountaineering classics demand such a level of expertise that they shine above all others in the minds of the climbers and alpinists who live in and visit this state. The following list would be an ambitious ticklist of some of the most famous, and most fun technical alpine climbs on a high peak in Colorado.

It is difficult to go about creating a list like this, as so many opinions exist about each and every one of these routes. I started by first establishing several criteria to reduce the number of worthy candidates to a manageable category. For example, I decided that to be included as a "mountaineering classic" the climb must be a summit route on a mountain higher than 12,000 feet. This eliminated many of Colorado's most classic lines such as The Naked Edge (6 pitches, 5.11b) in Eldorado Canyon, Otto's Route (4 pitches, 5.9) on Independence Monument outside Grand Junction, as well as anything in The Black Canyon or at Lumpy Ridge, etc. All of these climbs were worthy of being listed as Colorado Classics, but were they mountaineering? I considered expanding my criteria to include. But really, they didn't quite fit what I was looking for. I wanted to look at alpine routes, the kind that require a grueling approach and reach the top of a high peak. There seemed to be an intellectual line that defined what "mountaineering" meant, and the need for a strict definition waned.

Sunlight Spire (13,995') (5.10c)
With the 1988 datum bumping up the elevations on most mountains in Colorado, Sunlight Spire now just barely touches the 14,000' mark. However, most mountaineers still refer to the classic 1927 datum, so the Spire is usually still listed at 13,995'. Though it does not have 300 feet of topographical prominence, it holds the title as the hardest 14,000 foot summit in Colorado (if you adhere to the 1988 datum), perhaps in the entire United States. Sunlight Spire is a coveted and elusive summit for the true Colorado mountaineering master.

Wham Ridge on Vestal Peak
Vestal Peak and Wham Ridge
Vestal Peak (13,864')-Wham Ridge (Center Shift) (5.6)
The unique profile of Vestal Peak's Wham Ridge is unmistakable. It is one of Colorado's most beautiful and most astounding high alpine faces. While the standard Wham Ridge line alone is quality enough to warrant inclusion in this list of classics, the so-called "Center Shift," or direct variation, is the best way to experience the full value of this amazing mountain.

Hallett Peak (12,713')- Culp-Bossier (8 pitches, 5.8+)
The Culp-Bossier route is one of the classic alpine moderates. Located in Rocky Mountain National Park, this little mountain offers big adventure and big rewards. 8 pitches of good climbing including mostly solid rock, runout sections, and some solid "old school" 5.8.

Longs Peak (14,255')- Kiener's Route (5.4, moderate snow)
In my opinion, other than the Diamond, Kiener's Route is the best way to take on Longs Peak. Kiener's is an involved climb, with a long approach, a steep snow couloir, tremendous exposure, a little technical rock and a lot of route-finding. It's other name, The Mountaineer's Route, was given for the multiple skills necessary for a successful ascent.

Jagged Mountain (13,824')- Standard Route (5.2)
Jagged Mountain should be one of Colorado's most coveted mountaineering prizes. It is deep in the wilderness, impossible to see from almost any vantage in civilization, has an amazing route to the top, and is one of Colorado's 100 highest. There is exposure, loose rock, and patience necessary to make an ascent of this unique peak possible. It takes a broad spectrum of mountaineering and backcountry skills to climb reticent Jagged.


Climbers on the Diamond
Climbers on the Longs Peak's Diamond
Longs Peak (14,255')- Pervertical Sanctuary (IV 5.10c)
Any one of the routes on Longs Peak's Diamond deserve to be here. I picked Pervertical Sanctuary for this list. It is the second-easiest way up the Diamond and one of the highest quality in terms of rock and position. Does Longs Peak deserve two routes listed here on this page? It probably deserves more....

Crestone Needle (14,197')- Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
A mega classic that would deserve to be listed here even if it had not been included in the famous book Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. Other than the numerous routes on Longs this is one of the best technical climbs on any 14er in Colorado. First climbed in 1925 by legendary Albert Ellingwood, this route is steeped in history. It is also very high quality and worth making this list.

Mount Meeker (13,911')- The Flying Buttress (6 pitches, 5.9+)
The Flying Buttress on Mount Meeker is yet another classic alpine climb in Rocky Mountain National Park. This excellent route follows a salient feature on the Meeker side of the world-class Longs/Meeker cirque that includes Longs Peak's east face and the Diamond. This route is a worthy objective of its own, easier than the Diamond but harder than many other of the classic RMNP climbs.

Petit Grepon (12,000')- South Face (8 pitches, 5.8)
This slender alpine tower was also included in Fifty Classic Climbs, thus cementing its place in the canon of Colorado mountaineering. Besides being a part of this exclusive club, this mountain is fully worthy of being listed as one of the best alpine mountaineering routes in the state in terms of the quality of its rock and of its position. Just don't climb on a weekend or risk having to wait in line for your ascent.

Kit Carson (14,165')- The Prow (5.8)
The Prow is one of the more interesting and unique features on any Colorado mountain. It is an exposed, aesthetic ridgeline that dances up typical Sangre conglomerate cobbles. While most of the route is 5.6 or easier, the crux comes as the first move, committing you to the route. Escape is difficult and the exposure is amazing. A true alpine classic.

RELATED ARTICLES
Ten Class 3 Colorado Classics- for those too timid or too inexperienced for the class 5 list, check out these classic class 3 scrambles.

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Thursday, April 11, 2013

Ten Class 3 Colorado Classics

There is something fun about class 3. The thrill of climbing meets the freedom of not (usually) needing a rope. I have always enjoyed this grade. I feel mostly comfortable but it occupies my mind more than the long, grunt climbs of the easier class 2 peaks. This article is a toast to the great class 3 scrambles of Colorado.

The Sawtooth
The Sawtooth Ridge between Evans and Bierstadt
Mt. Bierstadt/Mt. Evans- The Sawtooth
The Sawtooth is a classic alpine ridge that connects two popular 14ers, Mt. Bierstadt and Mt. Evans. After ascending to the top of Bierstadt, this amazing ridge is immediately apparent, and nearly impossible looking. The long, engaging scramble is what makes this route a classic, ending in an exposed ledge that provides reasonable access to the west face of Mt. Evans.

Longs Peak- The Keyhole
No mountain deserves the designation of "classic" more than Longs Peak and no route in Colorado is climbed more often than the Keyhole. Although the approach hike is long, the effort to climb the Keyhole is well worth the trouble. Once you have passed through the Keyhole, the rest of the route is beautiful, exposed and classic. This climb's main detraction, however, is the sheer number of people who attempt this climb. However, if you can get past the crowds, this is truly one of Colorado's best scrambles.

Crestone Peak- The South Face
The South Face of Crestone Peak perhaps the best route on one of Colorado's best mountains. Crestone Peak is a dramatic mountain. The South Face is astounding route with great exposure, fantastic position and a plethora of high-quality class 3 scrambling.

Crestone Needle- The South Face
Crestone Needle along with its companion Crestone Needle form two of Colorado's most rugged and dramatic peaks. The South Face of Crestone Needle is a mega classic, with great sscrambling, engaging route-finding and some tremendous exposure. It is highly recommended by the writers of Colorado Mountaineering to do both the South Face of the Peak and the South Face of the Needle on a single trip, perhaps with a backpack basecamp at Cottonwood or South Colony Lakes.

Snowmass Lake and Peak
Snowmass Peak & Snowmass Lake

Snowmass Mountain- East Slopes
Snowmass Mountain is one of my favorite Colorado 14ers and this route takes you through an amazing place. A long alpine approach leads to Snowmass Lake, one of the most dramatic and breathtaking lakes of its size you will find anywhere. From here the route is thrilling. You ascend a long slope of class 2+ before finding a notch through a sharp ridge. The last few hundred feet is loose but engaging class 3.


Mt. Meeker- The Loft
Mt. Meeker (13,911') shares a ridgeline and a dramatic alpine cirque with Longs Peak. The Loft Route on Mt. Meeker takes you through this famous and classic alpine destination via a moderate class 3 scramble. The final ridge after climbing to the Loft is exposed a dramatic, finishing in an astonishing move to the summit block.

Mt. Sneffels Southwest Ridge
Mt. Sneffels is one of the San Juan's most popular mountains and for good reason. It is beautiful and well featured. Even the class 2 standard southeast ridge route is excellent and lively. The Southwest Ridge, however, is a classic route with long section of stout class 3, beautiful scenery, and excellent exposed positions. This route is one of my favorite class 3 scrambles. If weather moves in or time becomes an issue, you can descend the easier and faster standard route.

The south face of Mt. Sneffels
Relaxing on Sneffels Southwest Ridge route
Torreys Peak- Kelso Ridge
This Front Range classic is a great way to get a little solitude and make a little more of a mountain that is known for being easy. In general, Kelso is a mellow scramble but with a few cruxes that will get your attention. The knife-edge of Kelso, at the very end, is not the most difficult section, but often gets the most press. This exposed section is short lived but will get your attention. It is a good place to warm-up for more exposed and difficult climbing on other Colorado peaks.

Wetterhorn- Southeast Ridge
This standard route on Wetterhorn in Colorado's San Juan Range ranks as one of the best and most exciting class 3 scrambles. This route up Wetterhorn is relatively short, fun, and ends with an exciting scramble to an excellent summit. This excellent climb on this excellent is certainly worthy of this list.

La Plata Peak- Ellingwood Ridge
La Plata was my first 14er, and therefore will always have a special place in my heart. The Ellingwood Ridge route, however, is quite likely the best, and most complicated class 3 route on all of Colorado's 14ers. This route will challenge all but the most hardened of mountaineers with its long, snakelike ridge and devious up and down scrambling. This ridgeline is famous, and time consuming, so don't take it lightly. There are almost infinite variations which allow you to customize the difficulty of your climb. The easiest route is class 3 but you can easily make it class 5 with a more direct line.
Colorado's Ellingwood Ridge
The Ellingwood Ridge from La Plata's summit 
RELATED ARTICLES
Ten Class 5 Colorado Mountaineering Classics- is this list too tame for you? Check out or list of ten classic technical (class 5) routes on Colorado's high peaks.
Five Hardest 14er Cruxes- Five of the hardest cruxes on the standard routes of any 14er. Included: the Knife Edge on Capitol, the Leap of Faith on Sunlight, the Hourglass on Little Bear and others.

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Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
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