Showing posts with label video. Show all posts
Showing posts with label video. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 11, 2017

Hayden Kennedy: A Celebration of Accomplishments

by Brian Wright

Colorado Mountaineering was sickened to learn yesterday about the deaths of Hayden Kennedy and his partner/girlfriend Inge Perkins. 

Screenshot from an interview where Kennedy describes his
decision to chop bolts off the Compressor Route on
Cerro Torre in Patagoina
Hayden Kennedy was a living legend in my mind, and a climber I looked up to as someone I could only dream of emulating. I first met him when he was still a young teenager learning how to whitewater kayak. I was an instructor at the local whitewater paddling shop at the time, and remember being impressed by Hayden and his entire family. I never got to know Hayden very well. In fact, he probably wouldn't have remembered my name if I saw him on the street. But I remembered him and I always felt a bit in awe of his understated skills and humility.

I was very touched by a poignant article he wrote for eveningsends.com just a few weeks ago. I read it last night after hearing the news of this terrible sequence of events. Some of his incredibly well-written words are even more moving in retrospect, knowing what was looming unknown in his near future. His article can be read here.

The details of this tragedy have been reported on by numerous news outlets. One informative article can be found on Climbing Magazine's website. The purpose of this post, however, is to celebrate some of Kennedy's accomplishments and share a few videos that highlight his tremendous success and skill as a mountaineer and a person.

Kennedy and Kyle Dempster discussing their climb on the South Face of the Ogre in Pakistan for which they won the Piolets d'Or, the most prestigious award in climbing. (Note: Dempster also died in a climbing accident in 2016 on a remote mountain in China)



Hayden dropping some cliffs during a telemark extreme skiing championship


Hayden discusses his decision to cut bolts of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in Patagonia


I was not able to find a video of Hayden making the first ascent of Carbondale Shortbus in Indian Creek. The old video I had linked in several posts has since been taken down. I have however linked a video of Nick Martino working this route, so you can get an idea of the challenge and skill this project required.


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Sunday, October 8, 2017

VIDEO: Boulder Woman Makes First Female Ascent of a Confirmed 5.15

This didn't take place in Colorado, but Boulderite Margo Hayes became the first woman to climb a confirmed 5.15 this year when she climbed Chris Sharma's mega-classic La Rambla. This short video is a teaser of that historic climbing moment.

 




Thursday, July 27, 2017

VIDEO: Speed Climbing the Naked Edge

The Naked Edge is one of Colorado's most classic multipitch traditional routes. Located in Eldorado, this 6 pitch, 5.11b megaclassic was first climbed via aid in 1962 by Layton Kor and Bob Culp and later freed for the first time in 1971. The incredible, still stout testpiece remains of the most sought-after climbing ascents in the state.

This video shows Scott Bennett and Brad Gobright training to reclaim the speed ascent record of this line, which they had once held at 29:53.











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Wednesday, July 12, 2017

VIDEO: Skiing Holy Cross Couloir

One of the classic skiing lines on a Colorado 14er: the iconic Cross Couloir on Mount of the Holy Cross.














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Tuesday, June 27, 2017

VIDEO: Culp-Bossier Hallett Peak RMNP

The Culp-Bossier route on Hallett Peak is one of Colorado's most classic alpine lines. Usually accomplished in eight pitches, this famous moderate wall is known for long runouts on easier terrain and complex routefinding, so be confident in your skills despite the relatively easy grade of 5.8.

The following video shows some of the climbing on the line. Enjoy!












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Thursday, June 16, 2016

VIDEO: A Close Look at the Knife Edge

A close look at the Knife Edge on Capitol Peak. This video gives a nice, intimate look at one of the most infamous spots on Colorado's 14ers









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Wednesday, July 1, 2015

VIDEO: Skiing the 13ers with Chris Davenport

Check out this video of Chris Davenport's push to ski all of the Centennial 13,000 foot peaks in Colorado.



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Wednesday, October 22, 2014

VIDEO: Hardest Rock Climb in the World

This post is being made as a reference and for its history. While sport climbing and mountaineering are quite different pursuits they are related and since both use the same grading scales for difficulty this video of Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra taking on and both completing the most difficult climb in the world currently, La Dura Dura (5.15c)



RELATED
-Hardest Climb at Indian Creek
-Explanation of Yosemite Decimal System
-The Future of Rock Climbing and Mountaineering

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Sunday, January 26, 2014

VIDEO: Finding and Climbing the Petit Grepon

This entertaining video documents one couple's quest to summit Petit Grepon in Rocky Mountain National Park. Petit Grepon was made famous after its inclusion in Steve Roper and Allen Steck's famous 1979 book Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.
 


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Thursday, November 21, 2013

VIDEO: Midnight Run, New 5.13d in Glenwood Canyon

A video of climber Logan Jauernigg on his new route Midnight Run, a 5.13d sport climb at the Puoux crag in Glenwood Canyon.


Midnight Run: First Ascent from Björn Bauer on Vimeo.

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Wednesday, October 30, 2013

VIDEO: Independence Monument- Colorado's Moderate Desert Tower

A close-up look at a recent climb of Otto's Route (III 5.9) on Independence Tower in the Colorado National Monument. Otto's Route was first put-up in 1911 by John Otto. Though he did some major chipping (obvious in the video) he completed the climb in cowboy boots and with a hemp rope.



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Friday, October 25, 2013

VIDEO: Ashima Shiraishi Bouldering in Colorado

Ashima Shiraishi is one of the most exciting up-and-coming climbers on the scene. She exploded onto the radar of the climbing world when she became the youngest climber of either gender to climb V13 and 5.14c. In this video, we catch up with Ashima as she takes on some of the hardest bouldering problems in the state.

 
On the Road from Evolv Climbing on Vimeo.





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Friday, October 18, 2013

Video: The Casual Route (IV 5.10a)

No pro or big name climbers, but this video takes a good look at the Casual Route (IV 5.10a) on Longs Peak's world-famous Diamond. The Casual Route is the easiest route on this classic face:








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Tuesday, October 8, 2013

VIDEO: Ellingwood Arete

A comprehensive look at the Ellingwood Arete (also called the Ellingwood Ledges) on Crestone Needle. The Ellingwood Arete was included in the famous guideboook Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and thus maintains a certain dignity and respect in the climbing community abroad. This is a good and challenging climb and this gives you an idea what it entails:







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Saturday, September 14, 2013

VIDEO: Diamond in the Rain

Rain and a rescue hamper Tommy Caldwell and Jonathan Siegrist while they work on their free version of Dunn-Westbay on the Diamond of Longs Peak. Caldwell later returned with Joe Mills to send the climb, rating the second pitch 5.14a.








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Friday, September 13, 2013

VIDEO: Daniel Woods Climbs Wheel of Chaos (V14) at 10,600 feet

Daniel Woods climbs his new Colorado testpiece Wheel of Chaos (V14). This long, hard boulder problem is at 10,600 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park and requires a four-mile approach.

 
Daniel Woods - Wheel of Chaos V14 FA from Bearcam Media on Vimeo.





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Monday, September 9, 2013

VIDEO: Jimmy Webb on Colorado's Jade (V14)

Jimmy Webb crushes this classic Colorado testpiece Jade (V14) in Rocky Mountain National Park. Jade was originally climbed by Daniel Woods and rated V15. The rating was later downgraded after several repeats  to V14. Reportedly, 12-year-old Ashima Shiraishi, who recently sent The Automator (V13) also in RMNP, has her eyes Jade, which would make her the youngest person to climb the grade if she managed to complete it.


Jade V14 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

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Thursday, August 22, 2013

Video: Tommy Caldwell Works Longs Peak's Diamond First 5.14

Tommy Caldwell working his new 5.14 free version of Dunn-Westbay on Colorado's Diamond, an 800-foot granite face entirely over 13,000 feet in Elevation. 

Related: Diamond in the Rain- Caldwell and Siegrist also working this project while being hampered by rain, thunder and a major rescue.


Tommy Caldwell Testing The New 9.1mm Bluewater Icon from Cedar Wright on Vimeo.

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Friday, December 28, 2012

VIDEO: GoPro Winter Climbing Project, Hello Kitty (5.11c) & White Widow (5.12a)

For most of us here in Colorado, these latest snowstorms are more than welcome after a winter as warm and dry as 2011-2012. For us climbers, however, it means that many of us are forced to move indoors to train up for next season. This video here is an interesting helmet-cam presentation of working and training for climbing in the gym.


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Sunday, December 16, 2012

NEWS: 11-Year-Olds Making Climbing Headlines

Although it does not directly pertain to Colorado, this astounding news is relevant to all in the climbing community and thus worth reporting here. 11-year-old Mirko Caballero sent classic 5.14a Ubermensch in California just a few days ago, according to Rock and Ice Magazine and Caballero's 8a.nu scorecard. This classic route was originally put up by Chris Sharma.

Caballero isn't the only 11 year old making headlines. Climbing phenom Ashima Shiraishi from New York redpointed Lucifer and Southern Smoke, both rated 5.14c, at Red River Gorge and flashed Omaha Beach (5.14a). She was the youngest person, male or female, to both flash a 5.14a and redpoint a 5.14c.

Below is a video of Ashima climbing, including her ascent of V13 Crown of Aragorn in Hueco Tanks, TX:


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