Colorado Mountaineering: Castle Peak

Cathedral Peak in the Elk Range of Colorado

Cathedral Peak, the highest 13er in the Elk Range

The Elk Range is one of Colorado's most spectacular. It is home to some of our state's most breathtakingly beautiful (and breathtakingly dangerous) mountains. There are five ranked 14ers in the Elk Range, including some mega-classics like Maroon Peak and Capitol Peak. But there is a bevy of lower, also amazing peaks in this relatively small range. The following list takes a close look at this gem of a range, compiling its sixty highest "ranked" peaks. This covers every peak with over 300' of topographical prominence between 12,878' and 14,265'.

This would be a very focused, yet, impressive list of mountains to climb. The Elk Range is notorious for its rotten rock and treacherous exposure. As a group these peaks have attracted a large number of accidents in the past. The Maroon Bells are the main culprit, though Snowmass Mountain, Capitol Peak, and Thunder Pyramid have had a number of fatalities as well. Tread lightly in this beautiful but deadly range.

There are two class 4 peaks, 13 class 3 peaks, 42 class 2 peaks, and three class 1 peaks on this list.

(Note: elevations are given via the classic and familiar 1929 Sea Level Datum)

Peak Name	Elevation	Rank	Difficulty easiest route (YDS)
Castle Peak	14,265'	12	class 2
Maroon Peak	14,156'	24	class 3
Capitol Peak	14,130'	29	class 4
Snowmass Mountain	14,092'	31	class 3
Pyramid Peak	14,018'	47	class 4
Cathedral Peak	13,943'	62	class 3
"Thunder Pyramid"	13,932'	65	class 3
Hagerman Peak	13,841'	88	class 2
"Castleabra"	13,803'	105	class 2
"Lightning Pyramid"	13,722'	137	class 3
“Electric Pass Peak”	13,635'	177	class 2
Point 13,631	13,631'	180	class 3
Clark Peak	13,580'	200	class 3
Point 13,550	13,550'	220	class 2
White Rock Mountain	13,540'	224	class 2
Point 13,537	13,537'	230	class 2
Treasure Mountain	13,528'	235	class 2
Star Peak	13,521'	242	class 2
Keefe Peak	13,516'	245	class 2
Hunter Peak	13,497'	257	class 2
Treasury Mountain	13,462'	278	class 2
Sleeping Sexton	13,460'	283	class 3
Taylor Peak	13,435'	294	class 2
“Siberia Peak”	13,420'	306	class 3
Hilliard Peak	13,409'	313	class 2
White Benchmark	13,401'	320	class 2
Precarious Peak	13,380'	332	class 3
“Triangle Peak"	13,380'	335	class 2
Italian Mountain	13,378'	337	class 2
Buckskin Benchmark	13,370'	343	class 2
Pearl Mountain	13,362'	348	class 2
Malamute Peak	13,348'	354	class 2
Point 13,336	13,336'	365	class 2
“Oyster Peak”	13,312'	383	class 2
Mt. Daly	13,300'	394	class 2
Point 13,260	13,260'	433	class 2
Point 13,244	13,244'	444	class 2
Belleview Mountain	13,233'	450	class 2
"Cassi Peak"	13,232'	452	class 2
Point 13,216	13,216'	470	class 2
Teocalli Mtn	13,208'	477	class 1
Point 13,180	13,180'	503	class 2
Point 13,162	13,162'	513	class 2
Willoughby Mtn	13,142'	532	class 2
Point 13,140	13,140'	533	class 2
Point 13,062	13,062'	599	class 2
Point 13,060	13,060'	602	class 3
Mount Owen	13,058'	603	class 2
Point 13,039	13,039'	615	class 3
West Elk Peak	13,035'	617	class 1
Point 13,020	13,020'	627	class 1
Purple Mountain	12,958'	662	class 2
Mt. Sopris	12,954'	668	class 2
Point 12,942	12,942'	677	class 2
Point 12,940	12,940'	684	class 2
Point 12,934	12,934'	689	class 2
"Trail Rider Peak"	12,931'	695	class 2
Point 12,903	12,903'	712	class 3
Point 12,902	12,902'	714	class 2
“Christiana Peak”	12,878'	733	class 2

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INTRODUCTION

Castle Peak and the Montezuma Basin

At 14,265' (4348 m) Castle Peak is the tallest mountain in Colorado's prestigious Elk Range and is the 12th highest mountain in Colorado. It is also the easiest 14er in the Elk Range to climb and a rough 4WD road stretches all the way to 12,700'. Fans of the abbreviated 14er experience who have a rugged off-road vehicle can shorten this mountain to a relatively short hike with only 1,500' of elevation gain. Using this method, Castle Peak is one of the easiest big mountains in Colorado to climb in terms of overall effort. However, Castle Peak is not immune to the Elk Range's infamous terrible rock quality, and the route itself does have some exposed and loose class "2+" sections. It is important to emphasize that it is not a walk-up in the same sense as the choss lumps of the nearby Sawatch Range. There is a trail for most of the climb, but there is usually a permanent snow field to cross as well as several rocky sections that will require the use of your hands and careful attention to footwork.

While overshadowed by its much more famous and impressive Elk Range siblings (the Maroon Bells, Capitol Peak, Snowmass Mountain) Castle still reigns as a sort of redheaded stepchild who happens to be the oldest and biggest. The views from the summit are good and the basin between Castle and Conundrum is well worth exploring. There are several excellent couloirs on both peaks that allow for easy to moderate snow ascents as well as high quality back country skiing descents. Both Conundrum and Castle Couloirs have become more popular in recent years for this purpose.

GETTING THERE

Hiking along the approach road around 12,000'

Castle Peak is reached from Highway 82 just north of Aspen. From a large roundabout, take the Castle Creek Road turn towards the Aspen Music School, Aspen Hospital and Ashcroft. Follow this winding road along beautiful Castle Creek past the music school campus and some well to do homes. After 11 miles you will reach Ashcroft, a mini-hamlet with an excellent restaurant (The Pine Creek Cookhouse) and some other development. Continue for another two miles to a turnoff at a dirt road (FR 102) before a bridge over the creek. This is your turn. Follow the deterioration dirt road as it parallels the creek. Many passenger cars will park after only about a half mile. There is some free camping available in here as well. This is at around 9,800' elevation. If you decide to continue to the 4WD trailhead, continue along the road as it makes a tough creek crossing that will deter most passenger cars and station wagons (and all vehicles at high water). About two miles further is a common parking spot near the turnoff for Pearl Pass at 11,160'. Only the most rugged vehicles will want to continue past here. Don't go to Pearl Pass (a left turn) but continue along the road for another 2.4 miles to the highest trailhead at 12,800'. This makes your day very short and makes Castle Peak one of the fourteeners you can climb with the least amount of elevation gain.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
As previously mentioned, although Castle is technically the easiest 14er in the Elk Range, it is still home to the same notoriously rotten rock that has made the Maroon Bells, Pyramid Peak, and Capitol so infamous. This rock has cost a large number of people their lives throughout the Elk Range. Although Castle is not as exposed or difficult as these other peaks, it is still vitally important to tread very carefully on this loose mountain.

ROUTES

Northeast Ridge (Standard Route)
The Northeast Ridge route on Castle Peak became the standard summer route after a solid trail was constructed through the loose talus on this ridge. From the Castle Creek (standard, see above) trailhead, follow the road to the highest parking lot at 12,800'. Hike south from the parking lot towards Montezuma Basin between Castle (visible ahead) and Conundrum (to the southwest). There is usually a snowfield just past here to ascend. The snow is not particularly steep, but depending on conditions a ice axe might come in handy. After the snowfield follow the distinct trail through the talus as it enters the basin. Soon it will veer left and start to wind up the slope to where it reaches the ridge proper. From here the route gets a bit rougher and more exposed, though with careful routefinding should never exceed class 2. The last bands of rock are a bit steep but not too technical. Enjoy the rounded summit!

blue=Northeast Ridge; green=Castle Couloir; red=Northwest Ridge

Northwest Ridge
Before the construction of the good trail the winds through the talus on the Northeast Ridge route, this used to be the standard way to reach Castle's summit. Today it has fallen out of favor, largely due to the moderate snow climb to reach the saddle between Castle and Conundrum. When the snow melts at the top of this climb a steep, horribly slippery slope caps this route, presenting an even less attractive option. In the winter or spring, however, is snow is abound on both routes, this is probably the easiest and fastest way to reach the summit of Castle Peak. Follow the Northeast Ridge route past the 4WD trailhead and past the first snowfield into Montezuma Basin between the two mountains. Skirt a sinkhole/lake at the base of Conundum Couloir that formed a few years back (some unstable-looking geography through here). Climb the snowfield to the saddle between Castle and Conundrum at 13,800'. This is easiest when there is snow all the way to the saddle, for when the top section melts off (as in the photo above) the last hundred feet or so is on steep, dangerous ball bearings. From the saddle for the blunt ridge to Castle's summit. The terrain shouldn't exceed class 2.

Castle Couloir
A high quality snow climb on Castle Peak when the conditions are right. Follow the Northwest Ridge route into the basing between the two peaks. As you near Castle's North Face, locate the obvious couloir on its east (left) side. This couloir is only in good condition if it has snow for its full length. Climb this couloir for nearly 600 feet where you join the Northeast ridge at about 14,100' for the last pitch to the summit.

West Ridge

The West Ridge on the right skyline

This wilderness excursion offers a unique and exciting way to reach Castle's summit. This would be a good way for the mountaineer that is less concerned about ticking as many 14ers as quickly as possible but really getting the most enriching experience as possible from their mountaineering adventure. This route takes you to the Conundrum Hot Springs, one of the many wonders of the Elk Range. This route is almost certainly done as a backpack as it is 21 miles in length and gains nearly 7,000' of elevation. Most parties will camp at the Hot Springs and attempt the route the following day. While this is a wilderness trek into one of Colorado's most amazing and special basins, don't expect solitude. The Conundrum Hot Springs are notorious for crowds. Avoid holiday weekends and perhaps peak season if don't want to fight for campsites.

From the Conundrum trailhead (see this link for directions to this famous trailhead), hike for 8 miles along the well-defined trail to the Conundrum Hot Springs. This wonderful location is home to two nice hot spring pools at 11,200'. It is hard to beat the hot water at this high altitude. There is also good, designated campsites around the springs. This makes for a dreamy basecamp for your ascent of the West Ridge. Just past the springs, hike along a talus field into a bowl. Continue up along loose rock to a saddle at 13,600 west of 13,803' "Castleabra" (Colorado's 105th tallest peak). Climb up and over "Castleabra" to a 13,600' saddle at the top of "Cunning Couloir" (a reticent and climbable couloir that is also accessed from the Conundrum Trailhead). From here route gets a bit more difficult. Scramble up some class 3 to the summit of unranked Point 13,820. Descend yet again to another saddle at around 13,550' and scramble the last ridge to Castle's summit. Remember, if you are going to descend this route you have to return over Point 13,820 and "Castleabra".