Saturday, November 30, 2013

List: The Centennial Peaks (100 Highest)

The 100 tallest "official" peaks in Colorado, sometimes called the "Centennial List". The generally accepted standard for official status by mountaineers in Colorado is that a mountain should have at least 300 feet of topographical prominence (rise from the highest connecting saddle with a higher peak).

Peak NameElevationRankRangeDifficulty easiest route (YDS)
Mount Elbert14,433'1Sawatchclass 1
Mount Massive14,421'2 Sawatch class 2
Mount Harvard14,420'3Sawatchclass 2
Blanca Peak14,345'4Sangre De Cristoclass 2
La Plata Peak14,336'5Sawatchclass 2
Uncompahgre Peak14,309'6San Juanclass 2
Crestone Peak14,294'7Sangre De Cristoclass 3
Mount Lincoln14,286'8Tenmile Rangeclass 2
Grays Peak14,270'9Front Rangeclass 1
Mount Antero14,269'10Sawatchclass 2
Torreys Peak14,267'11Front Rangeclass 2
Castle Peak14,265'12Elk Rangeclass 2+
Quandary Peak14,265'13Tenmile Rangeclass 1
Mount Evans14,264'14Front Rangeclass 1
Longs Peak 14,255'15Front Rangeclass 3
Mount Wilson14,246'16Front Rangeclass 4
Mount Shavano14,229'17Sawatchclass 2
Mount Princeton14,197'18Sawatchclass 2
Mount Belford14,19719Sawatchclass 1
Crestone Needle14,19720Sangre De Cristoclass 3
Mount Yale14,196'21Sawatchclass 2
Mount Bross14,172'22Mosquitoclass 2
Kit Carson Peak14,165'23Sangre De Cristoclass 3
Maroon Peak14,156'24Elk Rangeclass 3
Tabeguache Peak14,155'25Sawatchclass 2
Mount Oxford14,153'26Sawatchclass 2
Mount Sneffels14,150'27San Juanclass 2
Mount Democrat14,148'28Mosquitoclass 2
Capitol Peak14,130'29Elkclass 4
Pikes Peak 14,11030Front Rangeclass 1
Snowmass Mountain14,092'31Elkclass 3
Windom Peak14,087'32San Juanclass 2+
Mount Eolus14,084'33San Juanclass 3
Challenger Point14,081'34Sangre De Cristoclass 2+
Mount Columbia14,073'35Sawatchclass 2
Missouri Mountain14,067'36Sawatchclass 2+
Humboldt Peak14,064'37Sangre De Cristoclass 2
Mount Bierstadt14,060'38Front Rangeclass 2
Sunlight Peak14,059'39San Juanclass 4
Handies Peak 14,048' 40 San Juanclass 1
Culebra Peak14,047'41Sangre De Cristo class 2
Mount Lindsey14,042'42Sangre De Cristoclass 2+
Ellingwood Point14,042'43 Sangre De Cristoclass 2
Little Bear14,037'44Sangre De Cristoclass 4
Mount Sherman14,036'45Tenmile Range class 2
Redcloud Peak14,034' 46San Juanclass 2
Pyramid Peak14,018'47Elk Rangeclass 4
Wilson Peak14,017'48San Juanclass 3
Wetterhorn14,015'49San Juanclass 3
San Luis Peak14,014'50San Juanclass 1
Mount of the Holy Cross14,005'51Elk Rangeclass 2
Huron Peak14,003'52Sawatchclass 1
Sunshine Peak14,001'53San Juan class 2
Grizzly Peak13,988'54Sawatch class 2
Stewart Peak13,983'55San Juan class 1
Columbia Point13,980'56Sangre De Cristo class 2+
Pigeon Peak13,972'57San Juan class 4
Mount Ouray13,971'58Sawatch class 2
Fletcher Mountain13,95159Tenmile Range class 2
Ice Mountain13,95160Sawatchclass 3
Pacific Peak13,950'61Tenmile Range class 2
Cathedral Peak13,94362Elk Range class 3
French Mountain13,940' 63Sawatchclass 2
Mount Hope13,933'64Sawatch class 2
"Thunder Pyramid"13,932'65Elk Rangeclass 3
Mount Adams13,93166Sangre De Cristo class 2+
Gladstone Peak13,913'67San Juan class 3
Mount Meeker13,911'68Front Range class 3
Casco Peak13,908'69Sawatch class 2
Red Mountain13,90870Sangre De Cristoclass 2
Emerald Peak13,904'71Sawatchclass 2
Horseshoe Mountain13,898'72Tenmile Rangeclass 1
"Phoenix Peak"13,895'73San Juan class 1
Vermilion Peak13,894'74San Juanclass 2
Cronin Peak13,870'75Sawatch class 2
Mount Buckskin13,865'76Tenmmile Range class 2
Vestal Peak13,864'77San Juan class 2+
Jones Mountain13,860'78San Juan class 2
North Apostle13,860'79Sawatch class 2
Clinton Peak13,857'80Tenmile Range class 2
Dyer Mountain13,855'81Tenmile Rangeclass 2
Crystal Peak13,85282Tenmile Rangeclass 2
Mount Edwards13,850' 83 Front Range class 1
California Peak13,849'84Sangre De Cristoclass 1
Mount Oklahoma 13,845'85Sawatch class 2
"Atlantic Peak"13,841'86Tenmile Rangeclass 2
Hagerman Peak13,84187Elk Range class 2+
Half Peak13,84188San Juan class 2
Turret Peak13,835'89San Juan class 2+
Point 13,83213,832'90San Juan class 2
Holy Cross Ridge13,831' 91 San Juan class 2
Jupiter Mountain13,830'92 San Juan class 2+
"Huerfano Peak"13,828'93 Sangre De Cristo class 2
Jagged Mountain 13,824'94 San Juan class 5.2
”Lackawanna Peak"13,823'95Sawatch class 2
Mount Silverheels13,822'96Tenmile Range class 1
Rio Grande Pyramid13,821' 97San Juan class 2
Teakettle Mountain13,819'98San Juan class 5.3
Point 13,81113,811'99San Juan class 1
Dallas Peak13,809'100San Juan class 5.3

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Monday, November 25, 2013

Ten Mountains You Probably Haven't Climbed but Should

Mount Silverheels, Tenmile-Mosquito Range, Colorado
Tired of the crowds on overrun 14ers? Looking for less-known, less-traveled Colorado peaks just as, if not more, fun to climb than any of the 53 highest? This is a list of Colorado mountains that don't see nearly the number of signatures on their summit logs. All are worthy of earning a spot on your to-climb list.

"McReynolds Peak" (12,450 feet; class 5.9) (rank: #1034)
McReynolds Peak is a ranked 12er and, according to several seasoned Colorado mountaineers, one of the hardest peaks in the state above 12,000 feet. The good news is that all of the difficulties are crowded in one 15-foot boulder problem at the top. The bad news is that the mountain is flanked by private property and access is currently a sensitive issue.

Mount Silverheels (13,822 feet; class 1) (rank: #92)
Mount Silverheels is a popular and excellent easy-to-climb mountain in the Tenmile-Mosquito Range and one that should be on the list of any true aficionado of Colorado mountaineering. In good conditions, you can bring your whole family on the standard South Ridge route, which has a good trail all the way to an excellent and rewarding summit. A classic high-alpine hike that is less threatening than some.

McGregor Mountain (10,486 feet; class 5.2) (rank: #2043)
McGregor Mountain from Beaver Meadows
McGregor Mountain is a somewhat obscure peak with a very prominent position: towering over the Beaver Meadows entrance station to Rocky Mountain National Park. It stands like a shield over the busy highway below, not high enough to draw as much attention as other peaks in the park but far more accessible than most. McGregor offers several multipitch lines with great protection, excellent rock and plenty of room for variations. The best part? Most of the routes are easy to moderate, mostly rating in from 5.4 to 5.9, and all of the climbs are at least 3 long pitches.

Mount Powell (13,580 feet; class 2-3) (rank: #198)
Mount Powell is the highest peak in the elusive Gore Range, perhaps the most rugged and least traveled of Colorado's high mountain ranges. While Mount Powell is not a difficult peak in terms of technical terrain, it does require a long approach and has a more rugged and remote feel than more pedestrian class 2 routes in the state. Any journey into this amazing range is bound to bring adventure, and Powell is a worthy trek for those wondering what some of the more popular ranges were like a few decades ago. Adding to the appeal is Mount Powell's rank of 198 which barely sneaks it onto the "Bicentennial" list, or the 200 highest peaks of the state. The Bicentennial list is coveted and elusive milestone in Colorado mountaineering.

Mount Oso (13,684 feet; class 2) (rank: #157)
Mount Oso, or bear in Spansh, is a remote and obscure 13er deep in the heart of the San Juan mountains. It is known for its long approaches and hard-to-reach trailheads. Though Oso is on the Bicentennial list, for many of the above reasons it remains on the outside of most Colorado mountaineer's ticklists. But a journey to Oso takes you to a beautiful and less-trodden corner of arguably Colorado's most impressive range, and this bear of  mountain is worthy of being bumped to the top of you to-do list.

Sunlight Spire (13,995 feet; class 5.10d) (unranked)
Sunlight Spire is one of Colorado's most elusive summits. Based on the 1929 elevation datum, Sunlight Spire is just shy of the magical 14,000-foot mark. But in the revised 1988 datum, generally thought to be more accurate, it has been upgraded to exactly 14,000. However, with only 215 feet of topographical prominence Sunlight Spire is not an "official" peak and therefore not on most climbers' radars. This comes as a sigh of relief to most Colorado mountaineers who look at this peak's splitter-crack summit pitch in despair. It is easily one of the hardest summits to reach in the entire state. Having said this, however, bear in mind that both Thunderbolt Peak, with 223 feet of topographical prominence, and North Maroon Peak, with 234 feet, are both not ranked but are generally considered part of the standard 14er list of California and Colorado respectively.

Peak L ("Necklace Peak") (13,213 feet; class 4) (rank: #473)
Peak L is one of the true gems of the Gore Range, a range known for being tough and elusive. I debated heavily between including Peak Q and Peak L from this portion of the Gores, but settled ultimately on so-called "Necklace Peak" (Peak L) largely due to its overall rugged beauty and the foreboding nature of its easiest route. Reclusive Peak L boasts a knife edge that gives Capitol's more-famous knife a run for its money and an overall sense of adventure that easily makes it one of the least-touched summits of any major peak in the state.

Ice Mountain (13,951 feet; class 3) (rank: #59)
Ice Mountain and the Three Apostles
Ice Mountain from the summit of Mount Huron
Ice Mountain is one of the most interesting peaks in the Sawatch Range from a mountaineering perspective, and one of the most beautiful. In a range known for gentle giants like Mt. Elbert, Mt. Massive and Mt. Harvard whose challenge lies in simple, hamstring-powered vertical gain rather than technical mountaineering, Ice Mountain delivers a smorgasbord of excellent features, including loose rock, exposed scrambling and infamous snow couloirs.

Pigeon Peak (13, 972 feet; class 4) (rank: #57)
There are many worthy mountains in the San Juan range worthy of this list, but I was force to pick only a few. Pigeon Peak is located in one of the cores of Colorado mountaineering: the 10-square mile region of the Weminuche Wilderness Area south of Silverton and east of the Animas River. Rugged and dangerous, Pigeon is a next-door neighbor to the popular 14ers of the Chicago Basin. In fact, Pigeon is closer to and more visible from Highway 550 than any of those peaks. However, Pigeon's rough approaches are less-developed and time consuming, adding to this mountain's foreboding nature. Pigeon is an exposed and craggy 13er. It is one of the highest and most difficult of the so-called "Centennial" 13ers.

Jagged Mountain (13,824 feet; class 5.2) (rank: #94)
People could accuse me of tooting Jagged's horn a little too often, but I just can't say enough about this phenomenal San Juan 13er. With a burly, probably multi-day approach, and an exposed and technical standard route, this is a beautiful mountain that Colorado can be proud of.
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Thursday, November 21, 2013

VIDEO: Midnight Run, New 5.13d in Glenwood Canyon

A video of climber Logan Jauernigg on his new route Midnight Run, a 5.13d sport climb at the Puoux crag in Glenwood Canyon.


Midnight Run: First Ascent from Björn Bauer on Vimeo.

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Sunday, November 10, 2013

Peak of the Week: Kit Carson

Kit Carson Peak (14,165 feet)

INTRO
Kit Carson Peak
At 14,165 feet, Kit Carson is Colorado's 23rd highest peak. Overshadowed somewhat but its more famous neighbor, Crestone Peak, Kit Carson is the king of an impressive massif that also includes Challenger Point (14,081 feet, rank: #34) and Columbia Point (13,980 feet, rank: #56). It is an impressive mountain and like many of the high peaks in the Sangre De Cristo Range, it is not an easy one to climb. Its easiest route is class 3 and there are several worthy technical routes also on this unique mountain notable for the wild conglomerate rock.

Though they are relatively narrow, the Sangre's are one of Colorado's most dramatic ranges, and Kit Carson deserves to be listed as one of the range's premier peaks. Every Colorado mountaineer, matter what their skill level, should put this mountain on their list.

DIRECTIONS
Kit Carson is most commonly accessed via South Colony Lake. To get there from Westcliffe, follow Highway 69 for 4.5 miles south. Veer south (right) onto Colfax Lane (County Road 119). Follow this road straight until you reach a T-intersection with Country Road 120 (South Colony Road). Turn right and follow this road 1.5 miles to the trailhead. 4WD vehicles can continue for as many as four more miles to a high trailhead at 11,000 feet. This road is notoriously bad and sometimes a gate may block it off at 9,800 feet.

ROUTES
Kit Carson Avenue is a common part of several mountaineering routes on Kit Carson Mountain
Kit Carson Avenue
East Ridge (class 3-4)
This is a popular route since it is the easiest way to reach the summit from South Colony Lake.


West Ridge (class 3)
The West Ridge is the easiest way to climb Kit Carson but cannot be done from South Colony Lake. In the process you also climb Challenger Point (14,081 feet). After reaching the summit of this lower neighbor, the route descends to a saddle, finds Kit Carson Avenue and joins the East Ridge for the summit pitch gully to the top.

North Ridge (class 4)
This climb is reached via the Willow Lakes approach on the opposite side of the mountain from the usual South Colony staging ground. This makes the North Ridge a good route for anyone who is looking for a more technical and off-the-beaten-path way to reach the summit than the standard West Ridge.

The Prow (class 5.8)
The Prow is one of Colorado's best technical routes on a 14er. It deserves to be named alongside other great Sangre climbs, like the Ellingwood Arete. While most of the Prow is 5.6 or easier climbing, the route is known for funky, hard-to-protect rock and exhilarating exposure. This is certainly not a place you want to be in a bad storm. The bottom of the technical portion of the route is also guarded by the crux moves of the climb. This overhanging beginning leads to some fun moves above. This is the most proud and enticing way to get to the top of Kit Carson or the experienced rock climber.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
The South Colony Lakes are in the Sangre De Cristo Wilderness Area and special regulations apply. These mostly focus on the carryout of waste. Check out the fact sheet for the Sangre De Cristo Wilderness Area for more information.

LINKS
Kit Carson mountain profile on 14ers.com

The Prow on MountainProject.com

Kit Carson mountain profile on Summitpost.org

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Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
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