14ers Are Dead!

Mt. Elbert, Colorado's highest (and one of its busiest) mountains

Climbing 14ers is dead. Give up!

What?!? What do you mean? I love climbing Colorado's highest mountains! This hobby is more popular than ever! I have only fifteen more to go before I've stamped every mountain in my 14er passport!

Okay, okay, I still like climbing 14ers, too, and I'm not going to stop climbing them on occasion, but sorry, it's just not impressive anymore to brag over beers that you "climbed" Mt. Elbert. And though your ego may swell to boast about being a 14er "finisher," so many have done it before you, it's just not the same as it was twenty, or even ten, years ago.

Where's the adventure? Where's the skill? The short answer? Not on Colorado's 14ers. Not anymore.

Spoiler alert! The internet (this website inluded) is bursting with beta regarding Colorado's 14ers. There are hundreds of pictures from every angle. Three-thousand word blow-by-blow descriptions that leave nothing to the imagination. Youtube videos that show every move of every crux. You can easily feel like you climbed them all without even leaving the comfort and safety of your living room.

And people just can seem to get enough.

But the adventure of mountaineering, what has always been at the very soul of this beloved pastime, is simply lost when you follow a train of two-hundred others up the slopes of a mountain. The sense of accomplishment from summiting a tall peak is  eliminated by the hoards of flip-flop wearing gumbies (each following an internet map and GPS tracker on their smartphones) swarming around you on the top.

La Plata Peak in the Sawatch Range

It is true, crowds are nothing new and the internet is now several decades old, but the beta age has reached a new apogee that has spoiled nearly everything. Nothing is secret and nothing is sacred.

One of my favorite nearby hot springs, which ten years ago was a refuge of quiet and solitude, is now a veritable circus on a summer day, complete with beer-guzzling party-goers, lawn chairs and thundering music. With the rise of social media, and millions if not billions of websites devoted to every niche you can possibly imagine, things that were once glorious, like summiting 14ers, have lost their prestige. Climbing these popular peaks, like travel blogging and MTV, is dead.

I hate to be cynical and nobody likes a pessimist. So what are we to do? What is the antidote to the death of the Adventure Era? The terrible answer is: I don't know. I'm tired of hearing people telling me "you should have been here in the 70's." I know they're right. But the world has changed. Earth's population has more than doubled in the last 50 years, and the growth hasn't slowed. Imagine what they will say in another 50 years. Maybe there will be paved staircases with handrails all the way to the top of every peak in the state.

But here are some ideas to help us still cultivate this long-lost adventure. And you don't have to travel around the globe to find it. It is still possible right here in our own backyards in the very mountains we have loved into their graves:

1) Pick a random mountain you have never heard of and climb it. 
Don't use google. In fact, don't even go on the internet at all. Use nothing more than a topo map and your own skill. Treat it like a first ascent. Scout the peak for the easiest line and nail it. Sure "Point 12,762" might not have the bragging power of "Capitol Peak," but is bragging really why we climb? (If you answered yes, then I hate to say it but you are NOT really a mountaineer anyway. Sorry....)

Snowmass Mountain from the backside

2) Climb a 14er by a much harder, non-standard line 
Everyone and their dog (literally) climbs routes like the Keyhole Route on Longs Peak. Go and ascend Kiener's instead. It's much more beautiful, much more exhilarating, and you can pop up on the summit plateau on the other side of the peak from everyone else, making you feel (at least for a moment) like a rock star. Several years ago I created a "14ers the Hard Way" list, to provide alternatives to those over-trampled standard routes. I dare you to complete this list!

3) Climb in the winter
Sure it's much harder, sure it's more dangerous, but climbing 14ers in the winter adds such a significant bump in the hero factor that you can feel like an actual mountaineer once again. You will see these peaks for what they are: impressive, beautiful and majestic. They deserve this reputation. And you deserve to experience them this way.

There it is. I said it. It's done. Climbing 14ers is no longer adventure, it's no longer heroic. It's a cliche. But there is hope, and you can be part of the solution.

RELATED ARTICLES
-14ers the Hard Way
-The Future of Climbing and Mountaineering
-Ten Mountains You've Probably Haven't Climbed But Should

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Statistical Analysis of Deaths on Colorado 14ers this Decade (2010-2016)

The Elk Range, statistically one of the most dangerous
ranges in the state

(NOTE: A new version of this article has been published that includes data from the 2017 mountaineering season)

The blossoming popularity of hiking and climbing on Colorado's 14ers has also brought an increase in accidents on these peaks. This article is an attempt to analyze the statistics from these terrible incidents and (hopefully) discover some useful conclusions to prevent such tragedies from occurring again in the future.

While every effort has been made to ensure that the data is complete, it is quite possible that some or several accidents have been overlooked. Every year there are accidents that go unreported and sifting through the barrage of information on the internet is not easy, especially regarding events that may have occurred several years ago. Still, this information can prove a useful tool in keeping all of who venture into the highest places of  this amazing state safe.

STATS AT A GLANCE

Total deaths on Colorado 14ers (2010-2016): 46
Deaths by mountain: Longs Peak (8), Maroon Bells (7), Crestone Needle (5), Crestone Peak (3), Kit Carson (3), Capitol (2), Snowmass Mountain (2), El Diente (2), Harvard (2), Evans (2), Missouri (2), Torreys (2), Quandary (1), Windom (1), Antero (1), Princeton (1), Little Bear (1), Yale (1)
Deaths by gender: M (41), F (5)
Deaths by age range: >20 (2), 20-29 (10), 30-39 (13), 40-49 (6), 50-59 (11), 60 or over (5)
14er deaths by mountain range: Sangre De Cristo (12), Front Range (12),  Elk Range (11), Sawatch Range (7), San Juan Range (3), Tenmile-Mosquito Range (1)
Deaths by Cause: fall (28), falling rocks (5), avalanche (3), heart attack (2), lightning (1), unclear (7)
Deaths by Year: 2010 (10), 2011 (10), 2012 (6), 2013 (5), 2014 (6), 2015 (4), 2016 (5)

(Note: I have combined the Maroon Bells in the above list due to the number of accidents that occurred on the traverse between them making it hard to attribute these deaths to one or the other of these peaks) 

ANALYSIS/CONCLUSIONS

There are a few glaring details from the above statistics that are immediately apparent. For one, half of these deaths (23) occurred on only five mountains (Longs Peak, the Maroon Bells, and the two Crestones). While none of these should really come as a surprise, it is interesting to see just how concentrated this list is. Longs Peak attracts a high number of accidents (almost all of which occurred on the standard Keyhole Route) because it's steep and exposed from every approach. The numbers are further inflated, however, because Longs is by far the busiest of any 14er in the state. On the Crestones, it is noteworthy that half of the eight deaths between the two of them occurred on Crestone Needle's Ellingwood Arete, a technical (5.7) multipitch climb, and only three fatal accidents have occurred on their standard routes. Per capita, the Deadly Bells lead for the dubious prize so far this decade as the most dangerous 14ers by their easiest lines. It doesn't take a Nobel Prize winner to understand why: these stunning peaks maybe be beautiful but their rock is far from it.

Another glaring and thought-provoking statistic is the ratio of males to females that have died on Colorado 14ers. A staggering 89% of the 14er fatalities this decade were males. From an analytical standpoint it is hard to say whether this reflects the numbers of males attempting 14ers over the numbers of females or some other factor (i.e. male tendency towards risk-taking, etc.)

It is also quite clear that the 14ers of the Sangre De Cristo and Elk Ranges are the deadliest. While the Front Range is tied with the Sangres for most fatal accidents total, this stat is skewed by the sheer number of attempts, as the Front Range 14ers (particularly Longs) are some of the state's most popular.

Analyzing the cause of death was somewhat challenging. Some of the information listed multiple causes, i.e. a falling rock strikes a climber causing them to lose their grip and fall. This sort of accident makes it difficult to categorize the accident. With other accidents vague reporting (often by reporters who have little or no mountaineering experience) made determining the actual cause of death very difficult. One thing is clear, however, is that the majority of 14er deaths involved a fatal fall on a mountain. The cause of these falls, however, is vitally important and sometimes difficult to say. My guess is that most occur due to breaking hand or footholds. The other leading causes of accidents are rockfalls/landslides and avalanches.

SOME SURPRISES

Capitol Peak has been site of two fatal accidents
so far this decade

What can also be useful from a data set like this is considering not just what is there but what is not. For example, neither Sunlight Peak, Wilson Peak, nor Pyramid Peak appear on this list. These three mountains are oft-touted as some of the hardest/most dangerous in the state yet nobody has died on any of them so far this decade. Also, there was only one death on Little Bear, another peak that is often regarded as the most dangerous of all the 14ers. In all these instances, however, these low numbers could be the product of much fewer numbers of attempts.

The San Juans. A beautiful range with a large number of rugged 14ers notorious for crumbly rock, yet we only see three deaths from this range. This again, could partially be a product of their distance from the populous cities of the Front Range, and therefore enjoy a proportionally smaller number of attempts. Or maybe the San Juans are not as fierce or chossy as their reputation makes out.

HOW TO AVOID AN ACCIDENT

Statistically speaking, there are a couple of easy things you can do to virtually eliminate your odds of ending up on a list like this in the future:

1) If your main goal in Colorado mountaineering is simply not to die, then do NOT climb the Maroon Bells, Longs Peak, or the Crestones. Again, over half of the fatal accidents this decade have occurred on these five peaks. Of course, many people simply cannot put their backs to the siren call of these dangerous peaks. For those, perhaps extra care should be taken to exercise the greatest possible caution: climb in good weather, wear a helmet, start early, avoid crowds, and tread lightly!

2) Be a woman. Apparently simply being a woman slices your chances of dying on a 14er considerably. However, I have not been able to find reliable stats on the ratio of female to male climbers attempting 14ers, or even better, starting out on individual peaks, so it is hard to know a woman's odds of dying are actually slimmer or if the difference is merely proportional.

3) Avoid falling. Of course this is always the goal, but most of the fatal accidents on 14ers involved the victim falling. From my experience reading about these accidents, breaking/crumbling hand or footholds is almost always the cause of falling related accidents. Maintain three points of contact on the difficult sections of steep mountains at all times, carefully test hold before weighting them, and rope up if it is safe and practical (which, unfortunately, is often not possible on the loose rock of some of Colorado's most dangerous mountains).

FINAL THOUGHTS

Though many of us like to say we "live" for the mountains, probably none of us wants to die there before our time. We accept a certain degree of risk knowing risk is the only path to reward. These 46 deaths are all tragic. The widespread consequences of losing even one life can ripple out and touch so many. But compared to the tens (perhaps hundreds) of thousands of people that attempted Colorado's 14ers this decade, 45 deaths is a very small percentage. We all venture to these high places knowing what risks we take and the potential consequences of our actions. We are willing to accept these calculated risks because it is only in the mountains that we truly feel alive.

RELATED POSTS

-2016 mountaineering deaths in Colorado
-Climber dies on Thunder Pyramid
-Climber dies on Maroon Peak
-Climber Dies on Capitol Peak

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The Five Hardest Cruxes of Colorado's 14ers (with videos)

A countdown of the five most stomach-clenching cruxes of Colorado’s 53 tallest peaks.

Climbing 14ers is the most popular mountaineering pursuit in Colorado’s high country. While more than 2/3rds of these noble peaks can be “climbed” by mere endurance and a pair of hiking boots, a handful of these popular mountains require a bit more technical skill and engagement with risk to reach the top. This list counts down the five most difficult sections (not most dangerous, that might yield a different list altogether) of all the fourteeners by their standard routes.

#5- The Summit Cap (Mt. Wilson)

Some nice exposure and steep scrambling awaits aspiring mountaineers who have reached the top of this San Juan monarch. Luckily, this vertigo-inducing crux is relatively short-lived. There is some loose rock here, however, and some mistimed flailing could prove disastrous. The following video  is a bit shaky but shows a detailed look at those final relatively intense minutes of climbing.

#4- Jumping the Gap (Sunlight Peak)

Much is said about the final move on famous San Juan 14er, Sunlight Peak. There are many that consider it the crux of all Colorado's highest peaks. In fact, Gerry Roach even makes that claim in his book Colorado's Fourteeners. This difficult move is no doubt exposed, and will get all but the most exposure-hardened of mountaineer's attention. But it is short and if you can put aside the dizzying swirl of air all around you, is not as difficult as fear might make it seem.

#3- The Knife Edge (Capitol Peak)

Perhaps the most infamous crux on any Colorado 14er is the Knife Edge of Colorado's Capitol Peak. While some may argue that this is not even the most difficult section of this peak, there is no doubt that the Knife Edge is the mental crux of this stout and infamous mountain. However, wary aspiring ascentionists can take heart with the knowledge that the Knife boasts some of Capitol's most solid rock and that, barring bad weather, as long as you keep your cool and move with deliberation, there is no reason this crux should prove anything other than exhilarating.

#2- The Chimney (North Maroon Peak)

There is no doubt that the Deadly Bells have earned that forboding moniker. As a resident of the Roaring Fork Valley, I can attest to the frequency at which Search and Rescue gets summoned to these beautiful mountains. Unfortunately, these rescue missions all-too-often become recoveries. The hardest section of these two peaks by their standard routes is the "chimney" of North Maroon that is a mildly sustained section of vertical climbing that many consider to be that hardest technical crux of any standard route on any fourteener.

#1- The Hourglass (Little Bear)

For my money the Hourglass on Little Bear Peak in the Sangre De Cristo Range deserves the title for the crux of all 14er cruxes. It is long, sustained, steep and dangerous. It is class 4 if you pick the best possible line, maybe even a little harder if you don't. Add in the immense danger of falling rock and this section is for real. Tread carefully and lightly here as a number of terrible accidents have occurred at this spot.

NOT HARD ENOUGH?

Think these cruxes were too easy? For a real hard man the following 14er cruxes on non-standard routes will put those five to shame.

Pitch 1 of Kit Carson's Prow (5.8R)

The start of this exhilarating and exposed alpine climb is worthy for the more  technically adept Colorado mountaineers out there.

climbers on Longs Peaks Diamond

Pitch 6 of the Casual Route (5.10a)

Sure, if I wanted to go crazy, there are much more difficult lines on the Diamond. After all, Tommy Caldwell established the wall's first 5.14 in 2014. But the Casual Route is the "standard" way to climb the Diamond and thus its crux gets the nod here.

Summit tower of Sunlight Spire (5.10c)

It's a good thing for those of us weenie everyday-Joe mountaineers that 14,000' Sunlight Spire does not have enough prominence to be considered a ranked peak because it's summit cap is a dozy. First freed in 1988 by Jeff Achey and graded 5.10c, this angling splitter crack is a magnificent achievement for any tough-guy (or gal) mountaineer. Really want something to hold over the heads of all those mere mortal 14er "finishers"? Tell them you free-climbed the Sunlight Spire and challenge them to match the deed.

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Colorado Mountaineering's New Discussion Forum

Colorado Mountaineering has unveiled a new discussion forum in the hopes of strengthening the flow of information among the mountaineering community of Colorado. We have added several topics and are always happy to hear feedback regarding potential improvement and expansion. This feature is, for now, considered experimental and its future depends on its success and the usefulness reported by you, fans and users.

Feel free to visit the contact page to find out how to report issues and/or provide feedback on this new feature.

MOUNTAIN DISCUSSION FORUM
Current conditions, accident/incident reports, gear reviews, gear swap and more!!

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2017 Colorado Mountaineering Calendar Now Available!

The 2017 Colorado Mountaineering calendar is now available from the Lulu bookstore. Makes a great gift or stocking stuffer for your mountaineering, climbing or scenery-gazing loved one. Includes images of Longs Peak, Mount of the Holy Cross, Conundrum Peak, the Grenadier Range, the Gore Range, the Flat Tops and more. Retailed at the reasonable rate of $14.99. Order now and receive it before Christmas! You can preview or purchase this item here at the Lulu.com book store or click on the following icon:

**UPDATE** As the new year rapidly approaches, the 2017 Colorado Mountaineering calendar has now been marked down 20%!! Act now to still receive yours before 2017 begins!**

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Peak of the Week: Grays (14,270') and Torreys (14,267')

INTRO

Gray and Torreys in the morning light

Grays and Torreys are two of the most popular 14ers in Colorado. The reasons for this are simple: located just off I-70 they are two of the most accessible 14ers in the state, they boast a bevy of high-quality and highly varied routes, and the popular traverse between the two peaks in one of the most user-friendly 14er routes in the state, making it handy for mountaineering newbies and pets and less-fit hikers.

We have included these two peaks together for the popularity of climbing the two peaks at once, but these peaks are each worthy in and of themselves. Grays Peak offers multiple routes other than the standard Grays Peak Trail hike (such as the fun Lost Rat Couloir). Torreys Peak also offers numerous alternative, such as the class 3 Kelso Ridge. The popular traverse between the two makes for an easy way to tick off two great mountains in a single day and a great way to get elevation in this beautiful part of the state.

DIRECTIONS
From I-70 take exit 221 (Bakersville) about six miles east of the Eisenhower Tunnel and cross a dirt parking lot. Find Forest Road 189 and follow signs for 3 miles to the obvious trailhead (11,268'). This road may be a bit bumpy but I have seen passenger cars make it all the way to the top. There are places to park earlier if you wish to avoid vehicular abuse. I had no trouble whatsoever making it to the top in my Subaru.

ROUTES
Grays/Torreys Traverse (class 1-2) 

Looking across at Torreys from Grays

This easy route is one of the most popular climbs in the state. With a high trailhead and a solid trail for nearly the entire section (except for a few very small stretches) this route is famous for its brevity, allowing less-fit hikers to bag two 14ers in a relatively short amount of time. From the trailhead, follow the main artery up an easy-to-follow class 1 trail to the summit of Grays Peak. From here descend to the saddle between the peaks (some small class 2 perhaps) at aboout 13,700 feet, and ascend to the summit of Torreys (perhaps some class 2 again). Descend back to the saddle, rejoin the Grays Peak trail and return to your car. Simple, classic.

Lost Rat Couloir (Grays Peak) (Class 3, moderate snow)
This fun snow climb is a great introduction to snow couloir climbing and a great way to make more of this gentle mountain. Follow the Grays Peak trail for a bit over a mile until just before a sign. You can see the couloir on the face of Grays a bit left of the summit. Follow a small, faint road left into a snow basin and contour towards the base of the couloir. Enter the couloir around 12,800' and climb moderately steep snow to the ridge (snow and avalanche gear recommended). Turn right and follow the ridge to the summit.

Kelso Ridge (Torreys Peak) (class 3)
This is a great scramble that makes more of Torreys Peak. It is a bit exposed and includes some excellent class 3 scrambling. Follow the Grays Peak trail for nearly two miles. Turn right around 12,300 onto a climber's trail that ascends to the saddle between Torreys and Kelso Mountain. Reach the saddle at 12,450' and turn up Kelso Ridge toward Torreys Peak. Scramble up the ridge (with some routefinding issues) to the summit. Enjoy the white-colorado "knife edge" just before the summit.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
Grays and Torreys are two of the most popular mountains in Colorado. Do NOT expect solitude! Arrive early and beat the crowds, or just enjoy the social experience that is these mountains. If hiking in the winter, be prepared for avalanches and all of the usual objective hazards of winter mountaineering. Just because they have a reputation for being easy doesn't mean they are in the winter!

TRIP REPORTS
Grays and Torreys- An ascent of the standard traverse in the summer time with photos, description and more

LINKS
Grays and Torreys on 14ers.com

Torreys Peak on Summitpost.org

Grays Peak on Summitpost.org

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Angels and Demons: The Two Faces of Holy Cross

It's Colorado’s most mythical mountain.

The serrated summit of Holy Cross

At the head of a gray basin whose old-growth conifers give way to gumdrop glacial boulders, and a winding crystalline stream dumps over gray ledges then through deep pools and over tall cascades, Mount of the Holy Cross stands guard with its stern, weather-worn face.

We stood at a kink in Half Moon Trail, lost in wonderment by our first look at one of Colorado’s most impressive sights. “That mountain is dangerous,” we were warned by concerned family members. “No one should ever climb that peak.” It seemed like a lot of fuss for a mountain that garnered a paltry Class 2 rating. But of the many climbs my wife, Ella, and I have attempted over the years, perhaps only Capitol Peak generated a more negative reaction from our family and non-climbing friends. For me, however, encountering the stark beauty of that great mountain for the first time is one of the most powerful and emotional memories from my mountaineering life.

*          *          *

In my opinion, Mount of the Holy Cross is the crown jewel of the Sawatch Range, a spine of peaks in the center of the state that includes many famous summits such as Mt. Elbert, Mt. Massive, Mt. Princeton and La Plata. Holy Cross’s rugged north and east faces seem out of character in a range dominated by sleepy giants with long, relatively gentle slopes. The craggy, boulder-strewn basin into which the famous cross drains feels out-of-place, almost as if it was plucked out of more rugged neighboring ranges and dropped randomly here, 13 miles southwest of Vail.

The postcard image of Colorado’s rood in the sky has inspired believers and non-believers alike ever since an 1873 photo by William H. Jackson first proved true the rumors of a mountain bearing the holy crucifix. It was featured in an oil painting by famed landscape artist Thomas Moran, as well as a poem entitled “The Cross of Snow” by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. For decades the ostensible sign from God drew zealots and fanatics to make pilgrimages to the mountain to witness it. And the great cross of snow did not disappoint.

In contemporary times, the fervor surrounding the religious iconography of this diminutive 14er (the 3rd lowest of Colorado’s 14,000-foot peaks) has waned dramatically. The peak, however, continues to draw alpine and mountaineering enthusiasts from all over the world. Its popularity, combined with some unique and challenging terrain and a series of tragic and semi-mysterious accidents, has lent the mountain a new reputation. One of mystery, menace and danger.

*          *          *

Storm clouds building over Holy Cross

Holy Cross has been called the “Bermuda Triangle” of the Colorado high country. So numerous have been the rescues, accidents and near-misses that people have come to view the area as cursed. The Holy Cross Wilderness is a rugged and convoluted landscape notorious for misleading trails and terrain that can quickly lead inexperienced and ill-prepared hikers astray. From the primary access point, the Half Moon Trail, hikers and mountaineers on most routes must climb up and over Half Moon Pass before reaching the base of the peak, an undertaking that requires at least 1,000-feet of “wasted” elevation gain in both directions. All of these factors combine to make Holy Cross more difficult and dangerous than your average Class 2 Sawatch 14er.

Of all the accidents and rescues documented in the wilderness surrounding Holy Cross, two incidents in particular provided the most potent fuel for the emerging mythos of Colorado’s most mysterious mountain.

In June of 2010, a 31 year-old man from Chicago named James Nelson went missing while on a 5-day backpack trip in the Holy Cross Wilderness. Despite an exhaustive search that included over 100 volunteers, the days turned to weeks and the weeks into years and still no sign of the missing man was found. It wasn’t until more than two years later that his tattered campsite was spotted near an abandoned mining camp, and his remains were found at last. An investigation of the years-old scene, revealed no evidence of foul play. However, a journal may have indicated he was afflicted by altitude sickness. Still today, however, it's difficult to draw firm conclusions about what happened to Nelson, and the events surrounding his death are somewhat shrouded in mystery.

An even more disturbing and prominent incident was the 2005 disappearance of Michelle Vanek, a 35-year-old mother of four. Vanek, along with her climbing partner, had attempted Halo Ridge, a long and circuitous route that traverses several sub peaks including Holy Cross Ridge (Colorado’s 91st highest mountain), en route to the summit of Mount of the Holy Cross. Halo Ridge is known for its up-and-down terrain and long exposure to the above-treeline elements. Just five-hundred vertical feet shy of the summit but out of food and water, Vanek decided she was too exhausted to continue and gave her partner permission to go ahead to the summit. When he returned, however, there was no sign of Vanek. Despite the largest search in Colorado history, with over 700 people committed to the cause, no trace of Vanek was ever seen again.

*           *          *

The Gore Range from the standard route on Holy Cross

The morning of our climb was cool and calm, ideal for an attempt at the mythological Holy Cross. As we packed our climbing bags and departed our camp along the bubbling banks of East Cross Creek, first light cast camellia hues over the basin. Far to the north, the blade-like summits of the Gore Range cleaved the morning sky. In the ethereal light, the mountains could have been heavenly.

By 9:00 a.m. after a strenuous but non-exposed climb, we stood on the summit in ecstasy. “We made it!” Ella shouted with a hug. A brilliant panorama spread as far as we could see in every direction.

The clear skies had filled with high, horsetail clouds and the wind was beginning to whip at our shirtsleeves. We basked in the commanding beauty of the mountain for half an hour as the morning gradually matured. Knowing what a long day we had ahead, we grudgingly departed the summit and made the long descent back to camp. By the time we broke down our tent, re-packed our bags, and slogged partway up Half Moon Pass to the final overlook where Holy Cross would disappear from view for good, the skies had changed dramatically.

A terrible storm, black and menacing, hovered directly over the serrated mountain. The tempest appeared to be a product of the peak itself, boiling out of its summit and casting doom on the basin below. The mountain looked more evil now than angelic.

A sharp crack of thunder shook us back to reality.

“Come on,” Ella implored anxiously. “We need to get going.” We still had to climb over the open exposure of Half Moon Pass.

Warily, I turned my back on Holy Cross, feeling moved by that potent place. Is there something mythical that gives power to Holy Cross, a spiritual vortex or religious portal? Or is it just something innate in the mountain’s rugged beauty and naturally complex terrain?

As we hiked out with forks of lightning stabbing the earth all around us, I couldn’t decide what difference there was between the two anyway.

(NOTE: This story was originally published in print and online in Our Backyard (Volume 11, Issue 4, August 2016), which is inserted in The Nickel, and the Moab Times-Independent)

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VIDEO: A Close Look at the Knife Edge

A close look at the Knife Edge on Capitol Peak. This video gives a nice, intimate look at one of the most infamous spots on Colorado's 14ers

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Five Most Iconic Colorado Mountains

What are the defining peaks of Colorado? With 637 "ranked" peaks higher than 13,000', it is hard to pick just five. What criteria could be used to quantify such a selection? Sheer beauty? Ruggedness? Fame? By any of these definitions on their own you might get a different set of peaks. Certainly Elbert could be cast as one of Colorado's most famous mountains, but without question it is not as photogenic as some of these rugged peaks. Then there are peaks such as Lizard Head, as rough and rugged as they get but so obscure that none but the most interested of fanatics have ever heard of it. And of course, every individual person brings their own biases, their own aesthetic preferences.

So for our selections here in this article, we have attempt to combine these characteristics: beauty, fame, ruggedness, to create a list of five of Colorado's most iconic and defining peaks. No matter if you agree of disagree, it is hard to deny that these are five mountains that Colorado can be proud of.

The classic Maroon Bells image from
Maroon Lake

1. The Maroon Bells (14,156'; rank #24)
In terms of sheer beauty the Maroon Bells are hard to beat. The classic image of the twin peaks framed in the U-shaped valley from Maroon Lake, has become one of the most iconic and defining images from the Colorado high country. Add in that these peaks both top that coveted 14,000' benchmark, and that they have a fearsome reputation as being two of the more formidable and dangerous summits to reach in the state and it seems clear that these mountains deserve their spot here on this list. (Maroon Bells profile page)

2. Crestone Peak (14,294'; rank #7)

Crestone Peak with a dusting of snow

Crestone Peak in the rugged Sangre De Cristo Range is one of Colorado's most beautiful mountains. Rugged, burly, prominent, it towers above its lesser adversaries like a monarch. There can be no doubt that Crestone is one of Colorado's most aesthetic and formidable mountains. It is a peak that Coloradoans can hold against nearly any other peak anywhere in the lower 48. Add in the unique prominence of the Sangres and you get a mountain that at times resembles a misplaced member of a more formiddable range like the Alps or Tetons right here in our backyards. (Crestone Peak's profile page)

3. Mount of the Holy Cross (14,005'; rank #51)

W.H. Jackson's famous 1873 Holy Cross
image

It is not just the namesake feature on Holy Cross's East Face that makes it beauiful and famous. This gem of the Sawatch Range is rugged and impressive from all of its aspects. Coupled with an amazing surrounding wilderness and you can see why it makes this list. The fame of the mountain, which originated with William Henry Jackson's 1873 photograph and Henry Wadsworth Longfellow's subsequent poem, has piqued the imaginations of hikers, religious zealots and mountaineers for well over a century. This is a famous and amazing mountain that deserves to be named among the greats. (read Angels and Demons: The Two Faces of Holy Cross) 

4. Capitol Peak (14,130'; rank #29)

Capitol Peak from the north

Capitol Peak enjoys an oft-touted reputation as Colorado's most fearsome mountain. While many debate on whether this reputation is overstated, there can be no doubt that the mountain has caputred the imaginations of modern mountaineers more than almost any other of Colorado's great peaks. But not only is Capitol a rugged and challenging mountain, it is also stunningly beautiful with its sharp ridges and impressive faces. No matter which direction you approach this mountain from it is a formidable spire. Without question Capitol is one of Colorado's most aesthetic and treacherous mountains. (Capitol Peak's profile page)

5. Longs Peak (14,255'; rank #15)

Longs Peaks North Face with the Diamond
also visible.

Highly visible, intensely rugged, shockingly popular, and classically famous, this list would not have been complete without Longs Peak. As the crown jewel of Rocky Mountain National Park, this mountain has attracted a great deal of attention for many years. It is also one of Colorado's most complicated massifs. Few peaks offer the sheer volume and diversity of routes. The standard route, the Keyhole, is most likely the most popular route on any mountain in the state. Longs Peak also boasts by far the largest number of viable technical mountaineering routes around. From the relatively mild North Face (5.4) to the mixed snow and rock of the dramatic Kiener's Route (5.4, steep snow) to the many world-class alpine multipitch climbs on the 1,000-foot Diamond, this mountain is a rock climber's paradise and one of Colorado's most impressive mountains. (Longs Peak profile page)

Honorable Mentions

Mt. Sneffels. (Debivort at English Wikipedia [CC BY-SA 3.0
(http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0) )

Mount Princeton (14,197'; rank #18)
The massive prominence of Mt. Princeton, especially as viewed from the east in the Buena Vista area, make this mountain one of Colorado's most impressive peaks. It towers with more than 6,000' of prominence over the Arkansas River Valley just a few miles away. In the winter, this stunning peak looks even more dramatic and the effect can be quite breathtaking. (Mt. Princeton tip report)

Mount Sneffels (14,150'; rank #27)
This San Juan gem is one of the most beautiful and rugged peaks in the state. Viewed from the north it boasts a staggering 8,000' of prominence over the plains near Montrose making its rugged profile one of the most sheer and impressive in the Rockies. (Mt. Sneffels profile page)

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Peak of the Week: Mount Massive

INTRO

The South Slopes route from just above treeline

Mount Massive is one of Colorado's most magnificent and gigantic peaks. With seven distinct summits, four of which are over 14,000 feet, Massive is almost more of a sub-range or a massif than a singular peak. As most everyone knows by now, Massive is the second-highest peak in Colorado and the third highest in the lower 48. By almost any measure, Massive is one of Colorado's most impressive mountains.

There are several routes up Mount Massive, from the relatively easy South Slopes standard route (class 2) to the scrambling ridgeline that connects North Massive to Massive proper to the marathon nine-summit "Massive Mania," which truly traverses the entirety of this great mountain. By the time you have completed your visit to this majestic peak you will understand its reputation and its name.


DIRECTIONS
Mount Massive TH
From Leadville, drive 3.5 miles south on Highway 24. Turn onto CR 300. Follow this road for 7 miles to the obvious trailhead just past the trailhead for Mt. Elbert on the left side of the road, Half Moon Campground (right side of road) and over a creek crossing. The trailhead on the right.

North Half Moon TH
Follow the directions for the Mount Massive TH. Continue past the Mount Massive TH for 2 miles to a junction. The road may be 4WD beyond this point. Continue straight for another half mile to the trailhead.

Windsor Lake TH
From downtown Leadville drive 4.5 miles west to Turquoise Lake. Cross over the dam and follow Hagerman Pass Road for 7 miles. Park on the north side of the road, cross over the Carlton Diversion tunnel and find the start of the trail after crossing a small stream.


ROUTES
East Slopes (13.5 miles; 4,531' elevation gain; class 2)
This is the standard route on Mount Massive and is a walk-up classic. One drawback, however, is that being the easiest route on Colorado's second highest peak, it is popular. Don't expect solitude unless you go in the off season.

Slogging up snowfields on the South Slopes in late spring

This route starts at the popular Mount Massive TH very close to the Mount Elbert TH and Half Moon Creek campground. It contours along the base of the peak, following the Colorado Trail for 3.5 miles. Turn left (don't miss this junction) onto the Mount Massive Trail at 11,300' and follow it through the trees until you emerge in the gigantic basin on Massive's east side. The summit doesn't look far away, but the distance is deceiving.

Follow the well-trodden trail for 3 miles as it climbs to the saddle on Massive's southern shoulder (between Massive and unranked "South Massive". This saddle is at 13,900'. Follow the rocky ridgeline to the summit and take in the view.

Southwest Slopes (5.8 miles; 4,001' elevation gain; class 2)
This steep, abridged route is the shortest way to climb Massive and avoids most of the crowds of the South Slopes. From the Half Moon TH, follow the trail northwest  to 11,200' and locate a tricky-to-find hiker's trail that cuts north up a gully. Weave through some broken cliffs, climbing very steeply and join the Eat slopes route just above the saddle and follow this to the summit.

Massive Mania (11.9 miles; 4,953' elevation gain; class 3)
This impressive route is accomplished via a car-shuttle and collects all nine of Massive's numerous summits. This incredible journey gives you the full Massive experience. Starting at the Lake Windsor TH follow the Continental Divide along the lofty ridge of Massive's massif until you reach North Massive, a "possibly ranked" 14er. Descend southwest along a scrambly class 3 ridge to "Massive Green" and continue the traverse along easier terrain to Massive's main summit. Continue the exposed ridge traverse to "South Massive" and "South South Massive" and finally over Point 12,381. Descend to the Mount Massive TH and congratulate yourself on an incredible journey.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
By every route, Massive is a big mountain. The standard route is long and exhausting, and almost every route on the mountain will carry you high above treeline for long periods of time. Take careful consideration about the weather forecast and don't get caught on Massive's long ridges in a thunderstorm.


LINKS
Mount Massive on 14ers.com

Mount Massive on Summitpost.org

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NEWS (7/11/2015): Andrew Hamilton Breaks 14ers Speed Record

Andrew Hamilton has broken the speed record by climbing all of Colorado's 14,000 foot peaks in 9 days, 21 hours and 51 minutes. This incredible feat speaks to the possibilities of human endurance, determination and pure athleticism. Hamilton completed the historic achievement on Longs Peak thursday morning on Longs Peak. Congratulations on an inspiring achievement.

Longs Peak with the Diamond and North Face visible from the Boulderfield where
Andrew Hamilton broke the speed record for climbing all of Colorado's 14,000-foot peaks

Check out an interview with Hamilton on 9news.com

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NEWS: Eight People Struck and One Dog Killed by Lightning on Mt. Bierstadt

In a single terrible storm, eight people and one dog were struck by lightning on Mt. Bierstadt in Colorado's Front Range Sunday June 28, 2015. According to witnesses, a small and brief but intense thunderstorm blew over the mountain at around 11:30 in the morning. Most of the victims received only minor injuries. Three, however, were taken to the hospital. Conflicting reports suggest that perhaps as many as 15 people were impacted by the fierce electricity. The dog, unfortunately, did not survive.

Mt. Bierstadt (right) and the Sawtooth Ridge at sunrise

This horrific tragedy is reminiscent of an event on Wyoming's Grand Teton on July 21, 2010 when seventeen people were struck in one storm, one fatally. This storm was the partial inspiration for Colorado Mountaineering's July 20, 2012 article Surviving the Apocalypse: A Lesson in Fulminology









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The Five Most Prominent Colorado Peaks

Mount Elbert is Colorado's most prominent peak
with 9,093 feet of topographical prominence

It seems obvious, but one of the most common debates in the mountaineering world is what exactly constitutes a mountain. It may be empirical, and it seems that you know a mountain when you see one, but when it comes to records and ticklists and media credit, there is a need to come up with a strict definition of the word. In Colorado, for example, there are several peaks whose status as either "official" (sometimes called being ranked) or "unofficial" is determined by topographical prominence.

So what is topographical prominence? Simply put it is the height of a given peak above its highest connecting saddle with a higher peak. In other words, if two peaks were connected via a ridgeline and saddle, if the lowest point on the saddle was at 13,800-feet and the lower peak was at 14,200-feet and the higher peak was at 14,400, the lower peak would have a topographical prominence of 400 feet. The prominence of the higher peak would depend on its connecting saddles or ridges with a higher peak.

In Colorado, mountaineering tradition has generally decided that in order to be "official" a peak must have at least 300 feet of topographical prominence. As Gerry Roach states in his famous guidebook Colorado's Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs, "There is nothing sacred about 300 feet. It is just a round number that seems to make sense in Colorado." In other parts of the country or world, different requirements have been adopted by local climbers. But this 300 foot mark in Colorado has drawn an arbitrary line in the sand whose rigid definition is not always accepted.

For example, North Maroon Peak, the closer and more apparent of the two Maroon Bells as seen from Maroon Lake, has only 234 feet of topographical prominence and is not considered "official" but is included in almost every list of 14er aficionados. On the other hand, North Massive, which has very close to 300 feet of prominence, is generally considered a sub-peak of Mount Massive and infrequently climbed by Colorado peak baggers.

So what are Colorado's most topographical peaks? The following is the list of Colorado's five winners:

1. Mount Elbert (summit elev.= 14,433 feet; topographical prominence= 9,093 feet)
No surprise here, you have to go all the way to the Sierra Nevadas in California to reach higher ground than Elbert. As a result Elbert stands above all the others in this category.

2. Pikes Peak (summit elev.= 14,110 feet; topographical prominence= 5,530 feet)
It was once proclaimed that Pikes was the highest peak in the state. And though surveys later showed there were actually 29 peaks whose summits were higher, it is easy why early Colorado climbers saw this massive singular peak and estimated it to be the state's ruling monarch. Pikes sits alone, far away from other 14,000 foot mountains. And from the east especially, it looks like a very large mountain. And it is. Therefore it is not shocking that Pikes is second on this list.

Crestone Peak, Colorado's fifth most prominent
mountain

3. Blanca Peak (summit elev.= 14,345 feet; topographical prominence= 5,326 feet)
As the queen of the Sangre De Cristo Range, a range known for rugged and prominent peaks, it is again no surprise to find gigantic Blanca at the number three spot on this list.

4. Culebra Peak (summit elev.= 14,047 feet; topographical prominence= 4,827 feet)
Perhaps the most anomalous peak on the list, frustrating Culebra of the Sangre De Cristo Range lands at number four. Culebra is Colorado's southernmost fourteener and one of the only of the state's highest peaks whose summit is on private property. Though it is legal to climb Culebra, you must pay a hefty entrance fee. As a result of its isolation, even at a paltry 14,047 feet Culebra finds itself in the elite class in terms of prominence.

5. Crestone Peak (summit elev.= 14,294 feet; topographical prominence= 4,554 feet)
As mentioned before, the Sangres are a range known for steep ramparts that leap from the lower valley that surround them. Therefore the fact that three of the five most prominent peaks in the state reside in this range is logical. When any climber looks on Crestone Peak, he doesn't need any number to know that it is a singular and majestic peak. But this anchor for the heart of the Sangre De Cristo Range deserves a spot on this list and on every Colorado climber's ticklist.

Honorable Mention:

6. Uncompahgre Peak (summit elev.= 14,309 feet; topographical prominence= 4,242 feet)
7. Mount Wilson (summit elev.= 14,246 feet; topographical prominence= 4,024 feet)

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