NEWS: UPDATED More Tragedy, Couple Found Dead on Capitol Peak (8/22/2017)

The North Face of Capitol Peak, a mountain that has
claimed the lives of four mountaineers in just over a month

The extreme year for accidents in the Elk Range persists. A couple described as "in their mid to late 20's" were found dead on Capitol Peak today. The reports were mixed, some describing the location of the bodies as "near the summit" and others saying they were "at the base of the north face." Given the steepness and scale of this aspect of the mountain, these two reports would appear contradictory.

According to sources, the couple had "tentative plans" and many suspected they might have stayed longer than expected in the area to view Monday's eclipse. This confusion led to a lapse in reaction time in the search for the missing couple. Once it was clear they had not returned as planned, a search was mounted which led to the discovery of the bodies.

According to a press release by the Pitkin County Sheriff Department, witnesses on the mountain the day of the accident, which is thought to have occurred on Sunday, suggested the couple likely summited the mountain but may have decided to descend via a different route. Those familiar with Capitol Peak know that there is no viable route for descent besides the standard Northeast Ridge, especially without ropes.

Though the names of the deceased have not been officially released pending notification of next of kin, Aspen Public Radio is reporting that someone close to victims has released their names. You can find their article at this link.

This latest accident tops off what has been a grim, record-setting year for the Elk Range. Four climbers have been killed on Capitol Peak and an additional two have been killed on the Maroon Bells. These peaks, renowned for their beauty, are notoriously dangerous to climb and have proven fatal for many adventurers over the years.

A story published in January on Colorado Mountaineering analyzing the deaths on Colorado's 14ers since 2010 and showed that the Elk Range hosts an abnormal percentage of fatal accidents on Colorado's 14ers.

UPDATED (8/23/17) The deceased have been identified as Carlin Brightwell and Ryan Marcil. The couple was described as having dated for a number of months and recently moving in together. Our thoughts are with the family and friends of these victims.


RELATED HEADLINES

-Climber Dies on Capitol Peak (7/19/2017)
-Another Climber Killed on Capitol Peak (8/6/2017)
-Statistical Analysis of 14er Deaths this Decade (2010-2016)

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NEWS: Missing Woman Found Dead on North Maroon Peak (8/8/2017)

The Maroon Bells. The North Face of North Maroon
is prominently visible right of center, to the right of the tree

A hiker who had been missing since Sunday was found dead on the North Face of North Maroon Peak today. It has been reported that Rei Hwa Lee, 57, of Littleton was found by Mountain Rescue Aspen this morning shortly after 11 am according to a story posted by the Aspen Times. This news comes only two days after another death on nearby Capitol Peak.

Though the exact line taken by Lee is difficult to determine from reports, the North Face of North Maroon is a non-standard route known for its precarious rock and steep exposure. Lee was hiking alone at the time.

As Colorado Mountaineering reported in January, the Maroon Bells have proven to be some of the most dangerous 14ers in the state. Combined with Crestone Peak, Crestone Needle and Longs Peak, these five mountains have accounted for half of the fatal accidents on all 14ers this decade. This latest tragedy marks the fourth death on an Elk Range 14er this year and the sixth death on a 14er this year across the state.

RELATED HEADLINES

-Body Found on the Maroon Bells (5/28/2017)
-Climber Falls to Death Near Knife Edge (8/6/2017)

-Climber Killed on Capitol Peak (7/20/2017)

-Summary and Analysis of 14er Deaths This Decade (2010-2016)

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NEWS: Another Climber Dies on Capitol Peak (8/6/2017) *UPDATED*

The Knife Edge on Capitol Peak, site of a fatal accident this morning

A climber died this morning from an apparent fall from the infamous Knife Edge on Capitol Peak. According to a report on 9news.com, the hiker fell from the notoriously exposed crux of the mountain that is oft-touted as Colorado's hardest 14er. Friends who were with the victim said he fell to east side of the skinny ridgeline.

A recovery team was inserted on the scene by helicopter but determined the injuries were too severe to warrant a rescue. The inaccessible terrain and unfavorable weather conditions made recovery too dangerous. The recovery operation was hoped to resume on Wednesday.

As of yet the victim has only been identified as a "male." This is the second fatal accident on the infamous Elk Range 14er. Twenty-five-year-old Jake Lord was killed in mid-July when a boulder he was clinging to broke free, causing him to fall several hundred feet.

Though accidents on the Knife Edge are rare, this particular section has been the site of several fatal accidents in the past. Our thoughts are with the friends and family of the victim.

*UPDATE (8/11)* After what rescuers described as "one of the most difficult recoveries in decades" volunteers from Mountain Rescue Aspen were able to retrieve the body of the man who fell from Capitol Peak. While early reports indicated he had fallen from the infamous feature known as the Knife Edge, it is now being said that the victim had not yet reached that portion of the route but was "in-between K2 and the Knife Edge."

The deceased has been identified as Jeremy Shull, a 35-year-old from Parker, Colorado. Shull was married with a 2-month-old baby.

A detailed account of the rescue operation was reported in Aspen Times. 

RELATED HEADLINES

-Climber Killed on Capitol Peak (7/20/2017)

-Climber Dies on Capitol Peak (7/21/2013)

-Summary and Analysis of 14er Deaths This Decade (2010-2016)

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NEWS: Climber Dies on Capitol Peak (7/19/2017)

Capitol Peak, considered one of the most dangerous
14ers in Colorado, was the site of a fatal accident on
Jul 15, 2017

A climber was killed on Capitol Peak last weekend when he and his climbing partner veered off the standard route and a boulder broke free, causing him to fall.

Jake Lord, a 25-year-old from Parker, Colorado, and his climbing partner were attempting the direct ridge linking Mt. Daly and Capitol Peak, a non-standard variation that has become more popular in recent years, when a large boulder he was clinging to broke loose, causing him to fall several hundred feet.

According to a report in the Aspen Times, the nature of Lord's injuries suggested the rock, which his partner estimated to have weighed around 200 pounds, may have landed on him at some point during the fall.

Lord is survived by his fiancee who traveled to Aspen after the terrible tragedy to be with his family.

RELATED

-Summary and Analysis of 14er Deaths This Decade
-Climber Dies on Capitol Peak (7/21/13)
-Capitol Peak Profile

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NEWS: Body Found on Maroon Bells (5/28/17)

The Maroon Bells as seen from the summit of
nearby Pyramid Peak

A man en route to attempt the Bell Cord on the Maroon Bells discovered a body yesterday morning, leading to speculation that the deceased was Dave Cook, who went missing while attempting the Maroon Bells last September. According to reports, however, the deceased "appeared to be in his early thirties," which would not match the description of Cook, who was 49 years old at the time of his disappearance.

Authorities have not yet released the identity of the recovered body but have merely reported that the victim had "several injuries to his head and leg." It was not clear if he was attempting to climb the peak at the time of his accident.

The Maroon Bells have proven themselves to be some of Colorado's most dangerous mountains over and over. They have well-earned their ominous nickname "the Deadly Bells." They were the sight of two fatal accidents last year. As Colorado Mountaineering reported in an analysis back in January, the Bells, combined with Longs Peak and the two Crestones, accounted for over half of all mountaineering deaths on Colorado 14ers between 2010 and 2016. Several contributing factors have led to these high numbers, including objective hazards such as loose rock, complicated routefinding and overall steepness.

UPDATE: The deceased hiker has been identified as Jeffrey Bushroe, a 27-year-old from Tucson, Arizona. According to a forum post on 14ers.com by a user claiming to be the person who found the victim, he was "not dressed for climbing."

Related Stories
-Peak of the Week (The Maroon Bells)
-Climber Dies on Maroon Peak

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NEWS: Climber Found Alive After Being Missing For Two Days on Pyramid Peak

Pyramid Peak in the fall

In good news, missing mountaineer Ryan Montoya was found alive Tuesday after vanishing on Sunday while attempting to climb Pyramid Peak in the winter.

According to a report on the Aspen Times website, Montoya had bivouacked near Crater Lake apparently in a snow cave on Saturday night and fell at least 1,500 feet as he attempted to climb the peak the following day. Montoya was found Tuesday by a runner along the Maroon Creek Road, having made much of the journey under his own power.

Montoya is described as an experienced climber by his friends. The type and extent of his injuries are unknown at this time, though the story has reported him as having frostbite. Winds on Pyramid Peak are estimated to have reached nearly 100 mph in the past few days.

Pyramid Peak is one of Colorado's most difficult 14,000-foot peaks. It along with neighboring Maroon and North Maroon Peak have accounted for many injuries and deaths over the years. 

A sizable rescue effort had been underway to locate Montoya. Earlier Tuesday rescue volunteers had discovered his skis and snow cave as well the remnants of a large avalanche.

It is fortunate that Montoya escaped this ordeal with his life.

RELATED STORIES
-Pyramid Peak: Northeast Ridge
-Climber Dies on Thunder Pyramid
-2016 Mountaineering Deaths in Colorado
-Summary and Analysis of 14er Deaths This Decade (2010-2016)

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NEWS: Hiker Blown Off Mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park

Twin Sisters Peak in RMNP

Hiker and famed mountaineer Alan Arnette suffered a badly broken leg when he was blown off Twin Sisters Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park a week ago. Arnette and a friend, Jim Davidson, were near 11,000 feet on Twin Sisters Trail when a gust of wind estimated around 90-100 miles per hour suddenly launched Arnette off the trail into a boulder field where he badly broke his leg and injured his face. Arnette admitted in an interview with 9News that he was lucky to be alive.

"I remember (Jim Davidson) saying 'There's a 10 percent chance we can make the summit, but there's a 70 percent chance something may go wrong," Arnette said in the interview. You can view the interview with 9news here at this link.

Alan Arnette is a veteran mountaineer with a heap of international accomplishments. He has reached the summit of Mt. Everest and K2 as well as many other mountains around the world. Outside Magazine called Arnette "One of the world's most respected chroniclers of Mt. Everest." He is also a well-known speaker and maintains a website about all things mountaineering.

We wish Arnette a speedy recovery and look forward to hearing more about his harrowing adventures.

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Colorado Mountaineering is Now on Twitter!

Stay current with all of the action. The social media age rules and we all must keep treading or sink. Follow us on Twitter to climb through the 21st century. Visit this link and click "Follow" now so you don't miss out. https://twitter.com/colomountaineer

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NEWS- UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Event Happening Now in Durango

By Bernhard (Own work) [CC BY-SA 2.5
 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5)],
via Wikimedia Commons

The United Climbing and Mountaineering Federation is hosting a world cup event this weekend in Durango, Colorado. According to the event website it will be the only internationally sanctioned UIAA event in North America this year. In addition, this event will also be the North American Ice Climbing Championship.

There will be a $1000 award for the winner of the lead categories and a $600 pot that goes to the winner of the speed event. You can view a schedule of the events here.

Colorado Mountaineering's New Discussion Forum

Colorado Mountaineering has unveiled a new discussion forum in the hopes of strengthening the flow of information among the mountaineering community of Colorado. We have added several topics and are always happy to hear feedback regarding potential improvement and expansion. This feature is, for now, considered experimental and its future depends on its success and the usefulness reported by you, fans and users.

Feel free to visit the contact page to find out how to report issues and/or provide feedback on this new feature.

MOUNTAIN DISCUSSION FORUM
Current conditions, accident/incident reports, gear reviews, gear swap and more!!

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NEWS (7/11/2015): Andrew Hamilton Breaks 14ers Speed Record

Andrew Hamilton has broken the speed record by climbing all of Colorado's 14,000 foot peaks in 9 days, 21 hours and 51 minutes. This incredible feat speaks to the possibilities of human endurance, determination and pure athleticism. Hamilton completed the historic achievement on Longs Peak thursday morning on Longs Peak. Congratulations on an inspiring achievement.

Longs Peak with the Diamond and North Face visible from the Boulderfield where
Andrew Hamilton broke the speed record for climbing all of Colorado's 14,000-foot peaks

Check out an interview with Hamilton on 9news.com

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NEWS: Eight People Struck and One Dog Killed by Lightning on Mt. Bierstadt

In a single terrible storm, eight people and one dog were struck by lightning on Mt. Bierstadt in Colorado's Front Range Sunday June 28, 2015. According to witnesses, a small and brief but intense thunderstorm blew over the mountain at around 11:30 in the morning. Most of the victims received only minor injuries. Three, however, were taken to the hospital. Conflicting reports suggest that perhaps as many as 15 people were impacted by the fierce electricity. The dog, unfortunately, did not survive.

Mt. Bierstadt (right) and the Sawtooth Ridge at sunrise

This horrific tragedy is reminiscent of an event on Wyoming's Grand Teton on July 21, 2010 when seventeen people were struck in one storm, one fatally. This storm was the partial inspiration for Colorado Mountaineering's July 20, 2012 article Surviving the Apocalypse: A Lesson in Fulminology









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NEWS: Wild Country Recall (10/10/13)

If you have purchased Wild Country Rock and Anodized Rocks since 2010, the gear you're carrying may have been recalled. The recall is being issued for certain batches of Rocks and Anodized rocks which, when tested, have been failing below their certified strengths. Thankfully, according to the company, there have been no reported injuries involving the faulty equipment.

Wild Country has released a pdf sheet with information about the reasons for the recall and how you can identify whether or not the gear you own is included in this recall. The way to know is to check the "batch code" of your product, which is imprinted on the plastic tab at the throat of the loop portion of the wire (see photo below). If the batch code on your Rocks or Anodized Rocks is either AG, AH, AII, or JBE then you should contact the company for more instructions. In particular, batch JBE was found to be especially faulty, with pieces rated up to 12 kN sometimes failing below 7 kN.

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NEWS: Mountaineers Complete Through Hike of Colorado 14ers (9/30/13)

Longs Peak where Luke DeMuth and Junaid Dawud
completed their "through hike" of all of
Colorado's 14,000-foot peaks on Sunday

According to reports by the Denver Post and on 14ers.com, Luke DeMuth and Junaid Dawud completed a successful "through hike" of all 58 of Colorado's 14,000-foot mountains on Sunday when they successfully reached summit of Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. The two climbers started their amazing trek 70 days ago in the San Luis Valley and have walked 1,300 miles and gained somewhere around 300,000 feet of elevation.

Though the duo were the first to accomplish the feat, they have stated they were simply "jonesing for a long hike," and that setting records was not a major factor in the decision to undertake the journey. The two had to overcome numerous difficulties, including many days of rain, hail, and "brutal" miles of pavement, but they say they never once seriously considered giving up.

DeMuth and Dawud successfully reached the summit of all 53 of Colorado's "official" 14ers as well as five of the "unofficial" summits, such as North Maroon Peak in the Elk Range, as well. Not only did they undertake the epic adventure for their own enjoyment but they have also been raising money for Big City Mountaineers, an organization whose goal is to "transform the lives of under-served urban youth through wilderness mentoring expeditions that instill critical life skills" according to the mission statement on their website. To read more about their adventures, check out their official website 14ersthruhike.com.

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NEWS: Helicopter Rescue on North Maroon Peak (9/23/13)

A helicopter rescues an injured climber on North Maroon
Peak. Screenshot from Youtube video

A 59-year-old man had to be rescued by helicopter after falling while descending North Maroon Peak on Saturday. According to a report on the Aspen Business Journal, the man fell 50 feet and suffered numerous injuries, including a possibly broken jaw. The helicopter rescue was successful and caught on video. The injured climber was with four other people when the accident occurred.

2013 has been a difficult year in the Elk Range. There have been several accidents and harrowing rescues this season, including the deaths of Steve Gladbach on "Thunder Pyramid" and Ryan Palmer on Capitol Peak, and the rescue of Daniel Palmer (no relation) also on Capitol Peak.

Check out this video caught by another climber of the successful rescue:



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NEWS: UPDATED: Climbers Stranded on Longs Peak (9/13/13)

Mt. Meeker, Longs Peak and the Loft where two
mountain climbers became stranded yesterday morning.
A rescue attempt was planned for today

In the middle all of the chaos of the Front Range floods, two women have become stranded and are in need of rescue on Longs Peak. According to the page started on tumblr.com by the sister of one of the climbers, Connie Yang and Suzanne Turell became stuck on Longs Peak in a "Whiteout snow storm" yesterday. The sister received a series of text messages from the pair stating that they were stranded at 13,400 feet because everything on the mountain had become iced over. According to the text messages they are on the "South Ridge...South East of Peak...Near the Notch". The women have a tent and are not injured but wrote that they are at risk for hypothermia. Reports have stated that rangers are going to attempt a rescue but it has been difficult to get anyone to the trailhead due to numerous road closures. Bad weather and low visibility have also made it impossible to fly a rescue helicopter.

The stranded women have come at a bad time for authorities in the area who are dealing with record rainfall and horrific flooding. The cities of Boulder, Lyons, Fort Collins, and others have been pounded by incessant rainfall the past few days, leading to record flooding and widespread destruction. The entire town of Lyons has been evacuated as of this morning with the National Guard coming in to help get everyone out of the stranded town.

UPDATED: 9News is reporting that rescue teams were able to get the two women safely off the mountain. We are highly relieved to hear this story has a happy ending and our thoughts are still with those affected by this large-scale weather disaster.

A video showing some of the record flooding in Big Thompson Canyon, which right now (9/13/13) is even higher than during the historic 1976 flood that killed 143 people:



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NEWS: Jimmy Webb Establishes V15 on Mount Evans (9/5/13)

Webb in Rocklands, South Africa. Screenshot from
his vimeo video

Jimmy Webb has reported on his 8a.nu scorecard that he has sent Wheel of Wolvo on Mt. Evans in Colorado, giving the climb a grade of Fontainebleau 8C (V15). "The break down is sick. A 10 move 8B+ into a 15 move 8a/+. A pumpy one for sure and suited my style/height so perfectly," Webb wrote. He went on to add, "Psyched to go back and try one of the harder exits!?"

Mount Evans and Rocky Mountain National Park have gained popularity in recent years as bouldering destinations. Through the work mostly of Dave Graham and Daniel Woods, several hard V14 and V15 problems have been established in these high-alpine destinations. Just a couple of weeks ago Daniel Woods opened The Wheel of Chaos (V14) at 10,600 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park. Just barely a week later, 12-year-old Ashima Shiraishi sent The Automator, a V13 also located in the park. The Automator was Shiraishi's second V13 after she became the youngest person of either gender to send the grade when she climbed Crown of Aragorn in famed Hueco Tanks at age 11.

Webb has proved himself as one of the top boulderers in world recently. On a June trip to Rocklands, South Africa, he flashed several V13s and sent several V14s. Wheel of Wolvo is his first V15. He also won first place at the star-studded Psiocbloc Masters Series event in Salt Lake City in early August.

Check out this video of Webb battling it out against Daniel Woods at the Psiocobloc Masters Series:

Also enjoy this video of Webb in Rocklands:
 
First try in Rocklands from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

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NEWS: UPDATED: Dramatic Blackhawk Rescue on Capitol Peak (9/1/13)

The Knife Edge of Capitol Peak

A Fort Collins man had to be rescued off Capitol Peak in Colorado's Elk Range after becoming stranded not far below the summit. According to a report on Aspentimes.com, Daniel Palmer, of Fort Collins, was trapped on the peak and had to be rescued by team from Mountain Rescue Aspen as well as a Blackhawk Helicopter. Reportedly, Palmer suffered only minor injuries in the incident.

At 14,130 feet Capitol is the 29th tallest mountain in Colorado. It is considered one of the most difficult and exposed of all Colorado's 14er, largely due to the "Knife Edge," an exposed fin that mountaineers must traverse. Capitol Peak was the scene of a fatal accident earlier this year when Ryan Palmer (no relation) decided to downclimb the north face of the mountain instead of returning over the Knife Edge and fell to his death.

UPDATED: According to an interview in the Aspen Times, Daniel Palmer claims to have gotten turned around on the descent and mistakenly descended to a point on the north face where he was unable to descend and unable to go back up. He was able to call authorities from a cell phone he was carrying.

Check out this video of the Knife Edge from a 2011 trip to Capitol:



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NEWS: Twelve-Year-Old Ashima Shiraishi Sends The Automator (V13) in RMNP (8/27/13)

Ashima Shiraishi has proven once again that she is one of the strongest climbers in the world, despite being only 12 years old. AShima quickly dispatched The Automator, a V13 testpiece in Rocky Mountain National Park. Ashima was the youngest person to climb V13 when she sent Crown of Aragorn (V13) in Hueco Tanks last year. Ashima has also made impressive sends of Southern Smoke (5.14c) and Lucifer (5.14c) at the Red River Gorge, and flashed Omaha Beach (5.14a).

The Automator was first established by Dave Graham in 2000 and has attracted a ticklist that reads like rolecall of some the best boulderers in the world,incluing Daniel Woods, Andy Raether, Jon Cardwell, Paul Robinson, Carlo Traversi, James Webb and more. The Automator is part of a recent development in the past decade of hard, alpine boulders in the National Park.

Ashima has drawn attention lately for her unbelievable talents. Rumors have been spreading that she has her eyes on Jade, considered one of Colorado’s classic V14 boulder problems.

Check out this video documenting Ashima and her ascent of Crown of Aragorn (V13) which at age 11 made her the youngest person of any gender to climb the grade:

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NEWS: Tommy Caldwell and Joe Mills Establish Diamond's Hardest Line (5.14a)

Longs Peak, Mt. Meeker and the Diamond

Tommy Caldwell and Joe Mills have established the hardest line on the Diamond, rating their free version of Dunn-Westbay 5.14a. They climbed the route in four long pitches from Broadway, the major ledge that forms the bottom of the Diamond proper. According to the report on climbing.com, the four pitches went at 5.10+, 5.14a, 5.13a, and 5.12b.

The original Dunn-Westbay route was put up in 1972 and graded 5.10 A3. Two years ago, Josh Wharton freed the line at 5.13b, though he took substantial variations on the first pitch. Caldwell and Mills wanted to free climb a line that was more true to the original conception of the route.

Visit this link to watch a video of Caldwell working the route

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