The Five Hardest Cruxes of Colorado's 14ers (with videos)

A countdown of the five most stomach-clenching cruxes of Colorado’s 53 tallest peaks.

Climbing 14ers is the most popular mountaineering pursuit in Colorado’s high country. While more than 2/3rds of these noble peaks can be “climbed” by mere endurance and a pair of hiking boots, a handful of these popular mountains require a bit more technical skill and engagement with risk to reach the top. This list counts down the five most difficult sections (not most dangerous, that might yield a different list altogether) of all the fourteeners by their standard routes.

#5- The Summit Cap (Mt. Wilson)

Some nice exposure and steep scrambling awaits aspiring mountaineers who have reached the top of this San Juan monarch. Luckily, this vertigo-inducing crux is relatively short-lived. There is some loose rock here, however, and some mistimed flailing could prove disastrous. The following video  is a bit shaky but shows a detailed look at those final relatively intense minutes of climbing.

#4- Jumping the Gap (Sunlight Peak)

Much is said about the final move on famous San Juan 14er, Sunlight Peak. There are many that consider it the crux of all Colorado's highest peaks. In fact, Gerry Roach even makes that claim in his book Colorado's Fourteeners. This difficult move is no doubt exposed, and will get all but the most exposure-hardened of mountaineer's attention. But it is short and if you can put aside the dizzying swirl of air all around you, is not as difficult as fear might make it seem.

#3- The Knife Edge (Capitol Peak)

Perhaps the most infamous crux on any Colorado 14er is the Knife Edge of Colorado's Capitol Peak. While some may argue that this is not even the most difficult section of this peak, there is no doubt that the Knife Edge is the mental crux of this stout and infamous mountain. However, wary aspiring ascentionists can take heart with the knowledge that the Knife boasts some of Capitol's most solid rock and that, barring bad weather, as long as you keep your cool and move with deliberation, there is no reason this crux should prove anything other than exhilarating.

#2- The Chimney (North Maroon Peak)

There is no doubt that the Deadly Bells have earned that forboding moniker. As a resident of the Roaring Fork Valley, I can attest to the frequency at which Search and Rescue gets summoned to these beautiful mountains. Unfortunately, these rescue missions all-too-often become recoveries. The hardest section of these two peaks by their standard routes is the "chimney" of North Maroon that is a mildly sustained section of vertical climbing that many consider to be that hardest technical crux of any standard route on any fourteener.

#1- The Hourglass (Little Bear)

For my money the Hourglass on Little Bear Peak in the Sangre De Cristo Range deserves the title for the crux of all 14er cruxes. It is long, sustained, steep and dangerous. It is class 4 if you pick the best possible line, maybe even a little harder if you don't. Add in the immense danger of falling rock and this section is for real. Tread carefully and lightly here as a number of terrible accidents have occurred at this spot.

NOT HARD ENOUGH?

Think these cruxes were too easy? For a real hard man the following 14er cruxes on non-standard routes will put those five to shame.

Pitch 1 of Kit Carson's Prow (5.8R)

The start of this exhilarating and exposed alpine climb is worthy for the more  technically adept Colorado mountaineers out there.

climbers on Longs Peaks Diamond

Pitch 6 of the Casual Route (5.10a)

Sure, if I wanted to go crazy, there are much more difficult lines on the Diamond. After all, Tommy Caldwell established the wall's first 5.14 in 2014. But the Casual Route is the "standard" way to climb the Diamond and thus its crux gets the nod here.

Summit tower of Sunlight Spire (5.10c)

It's a good thing for those of us weenie everyday-Joe mountaineers that 14,000' Sunlight Spire does not have enough prominence to be considered a ranked peak because it's summit cap is a dozy. First freed in 1988 by Jeff Achey and graded 5.10c, this angling splitter crack is a magnificent achievement for any tough-guy (or gal) mountaineer. Really want something to hold over the heads of all those mere mortal 14er "finishers"? Tell them you free-climbed the Sunlight Spire and challenge them to match the deed.

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PEAK OF THE WEEK: Little Bear (14,037')

INTRO

Without question Little Bear is one of the most respected and feared peak in all of Colorado 14er lore. Many or my climbing friends regarded this peak as a "(sigh) going to get it over with" climb. And not because (like Culebra or Antero) it is of unimpressive aesthetic value but out of fear and respect for its unique objective hazards.

Most of this reputation comes from the crux section, the Hourglass, which many regard as the most difficult section of any of Colorado's 14ers. According to Gerry Roach there is an easier way to climb Little Bear from the east, but this route is from private property and thus not accessible to the public. Other alternative routes that try to circumnavigate the dreaded Hourglass find themselves on terrain that is just as difficult and probably more dangerous. Though this easier (class 3) route up this peak was once used and may one day be open again in the future, for now all climbers must deal with the Hourglass or worse.

DIRECTIONS
As with Blanca Peak, an ascent of Little Bear starts at the Lake Como trailhead. Turn onto Hwy 150 about 26 miles east of Alamosa heading towards the Great Sand Dunes National Monument. Just over 3 miles later, follow a sign towards Lake Como. Go as far as your vehicle will allow you, as much as 7 miles all the way to Lake Como (for a burly off-roader).

photo courtesy: Alethe88 at English Wikipedia

ROUTES
West Ridge (class 4)
The standard route on Little Bear and the easiest since the closing of the peak's east side. The first part of the climb negotiates a steep, blocky gully on class 2 terrain that leads to a ridge crest. Traverse below the ridge to the right at around 13,000' until you reach the Hourglass, the route's crux. The Hourglass is stomach-puckering class 4 with lots of potential for broken rock and gnarly falls. Often there is a tattered rope or two dangling in the center of gully. Once past the hard climbing, it eases off to class 3 but any loose rock you kick free will tumble into the Hourglass into people below you. Be so careful through here!

Southwest Ridge (class 4)
A route with some access issues. The easiest trailhead (Tobin Creek) is not a legal access point, but this route can still be reached from Lake Como. This does, however, make for a long day. On the ridge expect long exposure, difficult climbing and objective hazards equal to or greater than the West Ridge line. En route you will  traverse over South Little Bear, a sub-peak.

Northwest Face (class 4)
Another alternative to the Hourglass, but again but as dangerous or more dangerous than the West Ridge. With the Northwest Face there is definitely more class 4 terrain, though perhaps the unique rockfall hazards of the Hourglass route can be avoided. Still, not likely to find a safer journey here.

Blanca-Little Bear Traverse (class 4/low class 5)
A long, classic and insanely exposed traverse that allows you to complete Blanca and Little Bear in one day. Gerry Roach calls this one of the four "classic 14er traverses" and warns that it may be the most difficult. There is no doubt that this ridge is long and exposed and there is no escape until the end. With careful route-finding you may be able to keep it at class 4.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
This is a stout and dangerous peak! There have been several deadly accidents on Little Bear, particularly at the Hourglass. This is not a recommended climb for a first 14er or for anyone who is not of excellent physical conditioning and possessing superb balance/decision making skills.

LINKS
Summitpost page on Little Bear

Mountain Project page on Little Bear

14ers.com on Little Bear

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Peak of the Week: Crestone Peak (14,294 feet)

INTRO

Late fall dusting of snow of Crestone Peak and
its neighbor Crestone Needle

Without question, Crestone Peak is one of Colorado's most spectacular mountains. It is the anchor of the Sangre De Cristo Range, and its crown jewel. It is rugged, picturesque and intimidating. In terms of mountaineering, climbers will find that "The Peak" is one of the most challenging and technically difficult of Colorado's 14ers. But for the advanced mountaineer, more options are available on the rugged peaks of this massif than almost anywhere else in the state.

Crestone Peak is a classic mountain, one that Colorado can be proud of. The Sangres in general leap from the surrounding valleys with abrupt and awe-inspiring sharpness. These mountains define what it means to be rugged. As Colorado's 7th highest peak, Crestone Peak is the tallest mountain in the state that requires class 3 scrambling to obtain its summit.

Composed of cobbled, conglomerate rock, Crestone Peak and its neighbors are unique to Colorado geology, and climbing them is an experience that no mountaineer, either native or visiting, could ever forget. It is a mountain and a range with a unique personality.

DIRECTIONS
South Colony Lake Trailhead- South Colony Lake is the ideal and most popular base camp for the majority of Crestone Peak routes. It is a good base of operations, in fact, for most of the neighboring peaks as well, making multiple-summit trips logistically viable. From Westcliffe, follow Highway 69 for 4.5 miles south. Veer south (right) onto Colfax Lane (County Road 119). Follow this road straight until you reach a T-intersection with Country Road 120 (South Colony Road). Turn right and follow this road 1.5 miles to the trailhead. 4WD vehicles can continue for as many as four more miles to a high trailhead at 11,000 feet. This road is notoriously bad and sometimes a gate may block it off at 9,800 feet.

ROUTES
South Face (class 3, moderate snow)-
The South Face route on Crestone Peak is almost always the easiest route on the peak. However, this route is long, complicated and almost always entails ascending some moderate sections of snow. From South Colony Lakes, climb a couloir to Broken Hand Pass. Descend to Cottonwood Lake (accessible via a long trail through private property with permission) and climb a vague couloir up the south face to a notch between the main summit and a sub-summit. Scramble a couple hundred more feet to the top.

Northwest Couloir (class 3, steep snow/ice)-

Crestone Peak stands proud

This route is more straightforward and entails less elevation gain than the South Face route, but is generally more difficult and dangerous. Depending on conditions, the couloir with either be a steep but good snow climb, or a mess of icy, rubble-infested ledges. A helmet, crampons and ice axe are recommended in almost any season.

Peak to Needle Traverse (class 5.2, moderate snow)- This popular and challenging traverse is listed in Gerry Roach's guidebook Colorado's Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs as "one of Colorado's four great Fourteener traverses" and for good reason. This route is a spectacular way to visit both of these astounding Colorado peaks. Though originally listed as class 4, standard consensus these days is that there is some limited low class 5 terrain on this route. The most popular way to tackle this route is by climbing Crestone Peak's Northwest Couloir route first, traversing from Peak to Needle, and descending Crestone Needle's South Face. Arguments have been made for doing the traverse in the opposite direction of for starting on the Peak's South Face route instead. This all depends on your skill and mountain conditions. One thing is for sure that this route is long, committing and complicated so plan accordingly.

North Pillar (class 5.8)-
This is the premier technical route on Crestone Peak, and one of the harder alpine climbing in the Sangres. It is not as popular or well-known as the Ellingwood Arete (see a video of climbers on the Ellingwood Arete) on Crestone Needle but is still worth mentioning here. The North Pillar is a ten-pitch climb on the mountain's northeast face, with the crux 5.8 pitch coming about two-thirds of the way up. Be prepared for runouts, complicated route-finding, and some unforgettable knob-pulling on the famous Sangre conglomerate!

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
The South Colony Lakes are in the Sangre De Cristo Wilderness Area and special regulations apply. These mostly focus on the carryout of waste. Check out the fact sheet for the Sangre De Cristo Wilderness Area for more information.

LINKS
Crestone Peak on 14ers.com

The Crestones on mountainproject.com

Crestone Peak on Summitpost.org

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NEWS: Another Climber Killed in the Elks (6/25/13)

Pyramid Peak (left) and the Maroon Bells (right).
"Thunder Pyramid" lies behind Pyramid Peak in this photo

The Elk Range claimed the life of experienced mountaineer Steve Gladbach, 52, on Sunday. Gladbach went missing after summiting the notorious Thunder Pyramid with some companions. According to a person who was with him, Gladbach had successfully summited Thunder Pyramid and separated from his companions to side-hill traverse out onto "Lightning Pyramid" where the accident occurred. 

Gladbach was a highly experienced mountaineer who had climbed all 584 of Colorado's 13ers, and all of Colorado's 14ers during wintertime. He was also a father of two and a high school math teacher. Gladbach resided in Pueblo, Colorado.

Both "Thunder Pyramid" and "Lightning Pyramid" are regarded as some of Colorado's most dangerous mountains. The massif has been site of several deadly accidents over the years, including that of David Morano in September 2011. At 13,932 feet, Thunder Pyramid is Colorado's 65th highest mountain and "Lightning Pyramid" is Colorado's 137th highest peak. They are both located along the same ridge as 14er Pyramid Peak and near famous mountains, the Maroon Bells.

NOTE: The original story when posted included several incorrect details, including that the accident occurred on Thunder Pyramid when in fact Mr. Gladbach was actually on "Lightning Pyramid" when he fell. His group had summited Thunder Pyramid earlier that day and were on descent when he decided to traverse off Thunder Pyramid towards its neighboring peak. We also originally reported that he had "wanted to check out a waterfall he was interested in climbing in the winter." Though he was interested in climbing Thunder Pyramid during winter, no "waterfall" exists on this aspect of the mountain nor was he scouting one as a potential route at the time. We regret the errors.

RELATED STORIES
-Climber Killed on Thunder Pyramid
-Statistical Analysis of Deaths on 14ers This Decade
-Sixty Highest Peaks in the Elk Range

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PEAK OF THE WEEK: Pyramid Peak

OVERVIEW

Pyramid Peak is the lesser-known sibling to the Maroon Bells. Lacking the classic view with the U-shaped valley and lakefront foreground that has made the Bells so famous, Pyramid is a more reclusive mountain, though no less proud. Many mountain climbers find Pyramid to be one of Colorado’s most difficult and dangerous 14ers. While more experienced parties often argue that Pyramid’s difficulty is overrated, nobody denies that the quality of its rock is as terrible as they come. Here lies the principal danger: the objective hazard of rockfall and rock collapse. Take care to move only one limb at a time in more difficult sections and never climb directly above or below other climbers. Pyramid and the Bells have claimed many lives over the years. Approach this mountain with humility, ability and respect.

 On the positive side, Pyramid is an exciting scramble to a spectacular and renowned summit with some of the best views in the range. Pyramid is not as busy as many Colorado mountains and the approach is relatively short.

DIRECTIONS

Find Maroon Creek Rd. off Highway 82 at a roundabout a few miles north of Aspen. Head towards and eventually past the Aspen Highlands Ski Area. Continue up this road for 9.5 miles past several campgrounds and trailheads to the end at the Maroon Lake trailhead. Day climbers continue to the end to the bigger lot and backpackers need to use the overnight lot a little farther from the lake.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS

There is a $10 day use fee to park at Maroon Lake. Overnight fee is $15. The rock of the Elk Range is notorious as some of Colorado’s worst. The formations that constitute Pyramid and the Maroon Bells are the worst in the range. In essence, this is a worst of the worst scenario. This combined with all three mountains’ steep profiles has led to trouble for many people in the past.

ROUTES

Northeast Ridge (II, 4th class)
The standard route on Pyramid Peak. The Northeast Ridge is the easiest and fastest way to do Pyramid but it is still loose, difficult and dangerous. From the trailhead, follow the Maroon Creek trail past Maroon Lake towards Crater Lake. At a flat area just before Crater Lake, turn left (south) at a cairn and follow a long trail as it climbs toward a gully and Pyramid Peak. Enter the scree not far after treeline and follow a rock glacier into a huge basin at the foot of Pyramid's North Face at around 12,000'. Climb a treacherous screefield for 1,000' to reach the northeast ridge proper at a 13,000' saddle. From here the view is intimidating. The last 1,000' includes much class 3 scrambling and even some class 4. The rock is very loose and the there is exposure. This is not a place you want to be in a bad thunderstorm. Be very careful where you place your limbs. In the harder sections only move one limb at a time and carefully test your holds. Don't climb above or below anyone. For one long section in the Green Couloir, my partner and I moved one climber at a time. Taking care like this will minimize the chances that anything bad will happen. Pyramid's summit is small and spectacular. Without question the Elk's are one of Colorado's most beautiful, though also most treacherous, ranges.

Northwest Ridge (II, 4th class)

The Northwest Ridge on the right skyline

The Northwest Ridge of Pyramid is more adventurous way to climb Pyramid Peak. It is more sustained, more difficult, and more exposed than the standard northeast ridge route. From the 12,000' basin at the bottom of Pyramid's North Face, turn away from the standard route and ascend a large couloir/gully to a saddle at 12,700'. There is some loose scrambling in the gully. From here the route gets more difficult and once again this is a bad place to be in a storm. This route is just as loose as the northeast route if not more loose, and the rock is more difficult. Climb the ridge for a few hundred feet before traversing over to a steep gully with a branch at the top. Take the right branch and encounter the class 4 crux. More tricky routefinding and traversing brings you to the summit a few hundred feet later.

West Couloir (II, 4th class)
A seldom-climbed route that takes on Pyramid from a whole new angle. Follow the Maroon Creek trail for two and a half miles past Maroon Lake and past Crater Lake to 10,300'. Now's the business.... Leave the trail, cross West Maroon Creek, and start to take on Pyramid's West Face funneling into the left of the couloirs that form around 12,500'. This couloir will be treacherous without snow and exceeds 50 degrees, Enjoy!

TRIP REPORTS: Pyramid Peak: Are We Just Mountain Goats?- A successful climb of Pyramid Peak in September of 2012. Includes many great photos and a detailed narrative.

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Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
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