Showing posts with label Colorado. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Colorado. Show all posts

Monday, January 16, 2017

Sixty Highest Peaks in the Elk Range

Cathedral Peak in the Elk Range of Colorado
Cathedral Peak, the highest 13er in the Elk Range
The Elk Range is one of Colorado's most spectacular. It is home to some of our state's most breathtakingly beautiful (and breathtakingly dangerous) mountains. There are five ranked 14ers in the Elk Range, including some mega-classics like Maroon Peak and Capitol Peak. But there is a bevy of lower, also amazing peaks in this relatively small range. The following list takes a close look at this gem of a range, compiling its sixty highest "ranked" peaks. This covers every peak with over 300' of topographical prominence between 12,878' and 14,265'.

This would be a very focused, yet, impressive list of mountains to climb. The Elk Range is notorious for its rotten rock and treacherous exposure. As a group these peaks have attracted a large number of accidents in the past. The Maroon Bells are the main culprit, though Snowmass Mountain, Capitol Peak, and Thunder Pyramid have had a number of fatalities as well. Tread lightly in this beautiful but deadly range.

There are two class 4 peaks, 13 class 3 peaks, 42 class 2 peaks, and three class 1 peaks on this list.

(Note: elevations are given via the classic and familiar 1929 Sea Level Datum)

Peak Name ElevationRank Difficulty easiest route (YDS)
Castle Peak 14,265' 12 class 2
Maroon Peak 14,156'24 class 3
Capitol Peak 14,130' 29 class 4
Snowmass Mountain 14,092' 31 class 3
Pyramid Peak 14,018'47 class 4
Cathedral Peak 13,943' 62 class 3
"Thunder Pyramid" 13,932' 65 class 3
Hagerman Peak 13,841' 88 class 2
"Castleabra" 13,803' 105 class 2
"Lightning Pyramid" 13,722'137 class 3
“Electric Pass Peak” 13,635' 177 class 2
Point 13,631 13,631' 180 class 3
Clark Peak13,580' 200 class 3
Point 13,550 13,550' 220 class 2
White Rock Mountain  13,540' 224 class 2
Point 13,53713,537' 230 class 2
Treasure Mountain 13,528' 235 class 2
Star Peak 13,521'242 class 2
Keefe Peak 13,516' 245 class 2
Hunter Peak 13,497' 257 class 2
Treasury Mountain13,462' 278class 2
Sleeping Sexton 13,460' 283 class 3
Taylor Peak 13,435'294 class 2
“Siberia Peak” 13,420' 306 class 3
Hilliard Peak 13,409' 313 class 2
White Benchmark 13,401'320 class 2
Precarious Peak 13,380' 332 class 3
“Triangle Peak" 13,380' 335 class 2
Italian Mountain13,378' 337 class 2
Buckskin Benchmark 13,370' 343 class 2
Pearl Mountain 13,362'348 class 2
Malamute Peak13,348' 354 class 2
Point 13,336 13,336' 365 class 2
“Oyster Peak”13,312'383 class 2
Mt. Daly 13,300' 394 class 2
Point 13,260 13,260' 433 class 2
Point 13,24413,244' 444 class 2
Belleview Mountain 13,233' 450 class 2
"Cassi Peak"13,232' 452 class 2
Point 13,216 13,216' 470class 2
Teocalli Mtn 13,208'477 class 1
Point 13,180 13,180' 503 class 2
Point 13,162 13,162'513 class 2
Willoughby Mtn 13,142' 532 class 2
Point 13,140 13,140' 533 class 2
Point 13,062 13,062' 599 class 2
Point 13,060 13,060' 602 class 3
Mount Owen 13,058'603 class 2
Point 13,03913,039' 615 class 3
West Elk Peak 13,035' 617 class 1
Point 13,02013,020'627 class 1
Purple Mountain 12,958' 662 class 2
Mt. Sopris 12,954' 668 class 2
Point 12,942 12,942' 677 class 2
Point 12,940 12,940' 684 class 2
Point 12,934 12,934' 689 class 2
"Trail Rider Peak" 12,931' 695 class 2
Point 12,903 12,903' 712 class 3
Point 12,902 12,902' 714 class 2
“Christiana Peak” 12,878' 733 class 2

RELATED ARTICLES

-The Ranked 14er's
-Centennial Peaks (100 Highest)
-The 200 Highest
-Colorado's Most Prominent Mountains

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Friday, January 13, 2017

14ers Are Dead!

Mount Elbert, Colorado's highest 14er
Mt. Elbert, Colorado's highest (and one of its busiest) mountains
Climbing 14ers is dead. Give up!

What?!? What do you mean? I love climbing Colorado's highest mountains! This hobby is more popular than ever! I have only fifteen more to go before I've stamped every mountain in my 14er passport!

Okay, okay, I still like climbing 14ers, too, and I'm not going to stop climbing them on occasion, but sorry, it's just not impressive anymore to brag over beers that you "climbed" Mt. Elbert. And though your ego may swell to boast about being a 14er "finisher," so many have done it before you, it's just not the same as it was twenty, or even ten, years ago.

Where's the adventure? Where's the skill? The short answer? Not on Colorado's 14ers. Not anymore.

Spoiler alert! The internet (this website inluded) is bursting with beta regarding Colorado's 14ers. There are hundreds of pictures from every angle. Three-thousand word blow-by-blow descriptions that leave nothing to the imagination. Youtube videos that show every move of every crux. You can easily feel like you climbed them all without even leaving the comfort and safety of your living room.

And people just can seem to get enough.

But the adventure of mountaineering, what has always been at the very soul of this beloved pastime, is simply lost when you follow a train of two-hundred others up the slopes of a mountain. The sense of accomplishment from summiting a tall peak is  eliminated by the hoards of flip-flop wearing gumbies (each following an internet map and GPS tracker on their smartphones) swarming around you on the top.

La Plata Peak in Colorado's Sawatch Range
La Plata Peak in the Sawatch Range
It is true, crowds are nothing new and the internet is now several decades old, but the beta age has reached a new apogee that has spoiled nearly everything. Nothing is secret and nothing is sacred.

One of my favorite nearby hot springs, which ten years ago was a refuge of quiet and solitude, is now a veritable circus on a summer day, complete with beer-guzzling party-goers, lawn chairs and thundering music. With the rise of social media, and millions if not billions of websites devoted to every niche you can possibly imagine, things that were once glorious, like summiting 14ers, have lost their prestige. Climbing these popular peaks, like travel blogging and MTV, is dead.

I hate to be cynical and nobody likes a pessimist. So what are we to do? What is the antidote to the death of the Adventure Era? The terrible answer is: I don't know. I'm tired of hearing people telling me "you should have been here in the 70's." I know they're right. But the world has changed. Earth's population has more than doubled in the last 50 years, and the growth hasn't slowed. Imagine what they will say in another 50 years. Maybe there will be paved staircases with handrails all the way to the top of every peak in the state.

But here are some ideas to help us still cultivate this long-lost adventure. And you don't have to travel around the globe to find it. It is still possible right here in our own backyards in the very mountains we have loved into their graves:

1) Pick a random mountain you have never heard of and climb it. 
Don't use google. In fact, don't even go on the internet at all. Use nothing more than a topo map and your own skill. Treat it like a first ascent. Scout the peak for the easiest line and nail it. Sure "Point 12,762" might not have the bragging power of "Capitol Peak," but is bragging really why we climb? (If you answered yes, then I hate to say it but you are NOT really a mountaineer anyway. Sorry....)

Snowmass Mountain from Geneva Lake
Snowmass Mountain from the backside
2) Climb a 14er by a much harder, non-standard line 
Everyone and their dog (literally) climbs routes like the Keyhole Route on Longs Peak. Go and ascend Kiener's instead. It's much more beautiful, much more exhilarating, and you can pop up on the summit plateau on the other side of the peak from everyone else, making you feel (at least for a moment) like a rock star. Several years ago I created a "14ers the Hard Way" list, to provide alternatives to those over-trampled standard routes. I dare you to complete this list!

3) Climb in the winter
Sure it's much harder, sure it's more dangerous, but climbing 14ers in the winter adds such a significant bump in the hero factor that you can feel like an actual mountaineer once again. You will see these peaks for what they are: impressive, beautiful and majestic. They deserve this reputation. And you deserve to experience them this way.

There it is. I said it. It's done. Climbing 14ers is no longer adventure, it's no longer heroic. It's a cliche. But there is hope, and you can be part of the solution.

RELATED ARTICLES
-14ers the Hard Way
-The Future of Climbing and Mountaineering
-Ten Mountains You've Probably Haven't Climbed But Should

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Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
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Sunday, December 4, 2016

2017 Colorado Mountaineering Calendar Now Available!

The 2017 Colorado Mountaineering calendar is now available from the Lulu bookstore. Makes a great gift or stocking stuffer for your mountaineering, climbing or scenery-gazing loved one. Includes images of Longs Peak, Mount of the Holy Cross, Conundrum Peak, the Grenadier Range, the Gore Range, the Flat Tops and more. Retailed at the reasonable rate of $14.99. Order now and receive it before Christmas! You can preview or purchase this item here at the Lulu.com book store or click on the following icon:

Support independent publishing: Buy this calendar on Lulu.

**UPDATE** As the new year rapidly approaches, the 2017 Colorado Mountaineering calendar has now been marked down 20%!! Act now to still receive yours before 2017 begins!**

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Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.

Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
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Monday, January 27, 2014

Hot Route: Thomas Lakes (Mount Sopris)

INTRO
Mount Sopris from the north
Mount Sopris seen from the north
Mount Sopris is probably one of the most picturesque and most frequently climbed 12,000-foot peaks in the state, certainly in the west slope. Despite clocking in at only 12,953 feet, Sopris is a powerful mountain. When viewed from the north it has astonishing prominence, towering more than 6,000 feet above the valley floor below. Another unique feature of Mount Sopris is that each of its twin summits measure in at exactly the same elevation, creating a sort of conundrum for peak baggers. Many choose to just stand on the east summit, which is logical when climbing the standard Thomas Lakes route, as it is the first summit you come to. I would strongly suggest, however, making the out-and-back to the west summit, which provides a better view of Glenwood and allows you the confidence knowing that you truly toured this magnificent peak's amazing top.

DIRECTIONS
From the intersection of Highway 133 and Main Street in Carbondale, follow Hwy 133 south for about 1.6 miles and turn left (east) on Prince Creek Rd. After cruising through some small open ranch properties, continue along the road as it veers east. Veer right at a confusing, triangle-shaped intersection about 7.8 miles after the 133/Main Street intersection. Continue along the narrowing dirt road for a little less than two more miles to a large parking lot with a bathroom on the left. It should be passable in the summer for most passenger cars though some clearance might be recommended. Can be tough in the winter.

ROUTES
Thomas Lakes
Mount Sopris in the Elk Range of Colorado
Storm over Sopris from the meadow at 9,500 feet
This is the standard route and though there are several more rugged possibilities on the peak's south and west aspects, 99.9% of summer ascents on Mount Sopris are done this way. It can be done in one day though a night at the beautiful Thomas Lakes makes hauling a light backpack well worth it. Start up the wide trail up a mild incline for .6 miles to the first major switchback. At mile 1 the trail turns south and emerges from the trees shortly after. At mile 1.4 you reach a common "shortcut" that climbs directly south up a steeper slopes. This shortcut cuts off a large switchback. Taking the shortcut will save you almost half a mile and both have a well-beaten trail. Taking the old road, however, you will wind around a hill, and climb up a short steep section to reach a meadow at mile 2. There is a beautiful view of the mountain from here at 9,500 feet. Ahead you re-enter the trees and wind though a beautiful aspen-pine area with a trickling stream. At mile 3.4 you reach the first pond, and at mile 3.7 you reach the first lake. There are several number campsites in this area.

Mount Sopris from Thomas Lakes
Mount Sopris from Thomas Lakes
Hike between and around Thomas Lakes and follow the well-defined trail as it switchbacks up a hill and reaches the northeast ridge proper at 10,600 feet. The trees are noticeably thinning here and you will get the feeling you are nearing treeline. The trail levels out briefly before starting up the meat of the climb. Pick your way through the talus along the beaten path as the route steepens. Some amazing views of capitol open to the southeast. Pass the hardest steepest section (class 2) at mile 5.7 (~12,000 feet), veer westerly, still following the beaten climber's trail and the ridge. Bypass a false summit on the left (south) to reach a spot we always called "the Grassy Knoll," a peaceful patch of flat grass at 12,400 feet. There isn't much left so we always took advantage of a good rest here.

Follow the ramp up mostly stable talus as it makes the final climb to a bump at 12,900 feet. You are very close. Hike another .15  of a mile (6.6 miles total) gradually up to the east summit. Enjoy the view.

The final ramp to the East summit
For those that want to get the full twin-summit Sopris experience, be prepared to add 1.5 miles and 560 feet of total elevation gain onto your already lengthy day. From the east summit, hike .3 miles to the 12,660-foot saddle between the two summits (making it just shy of qualifying as two separate "ranked" peaks), and back up 280 feet and .35 miles to the west summit. Pat yourself on the back. Though you may feel tired, take heart knowing you got the full Sopris experience.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
Part of the route lies in the Snowmass-Maroon Bells Wilderness Area and special wilderness regulations apply. Please only camp in the designated and numbered spots around the lakes. There are some very good sites here and if you are climbing the peak on a weekend or any day when there is a chance that all of these sites might be full, get there early or consider doing just the single day method.

LINKS
Mount Sopris: A Mountain and a Totem- A look back on my first climb of Mount Sopris, a summit that launched my mountain-climbing career.

 Just Say No! to John Denver Peak- an article against the fizzled-out movement to rename the East summit of Mount Sopris John Denver Peak

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

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Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.

Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
For information about how to contact us, visit this link


Saturday, January 11, 2014

Peak of the Week: Mount Sopris (12,953 feet or 3948 m)

INTRO
Mount Sopris from the north
Mount Sopris seen from the north
Mount Sopris is probably one of the most picturesque and most frequently climbed 12,000-foot peaks in the state, certainly in the west slope. Despite clocking in at only 12,953 feet, Sopris is a powerful mountain. When viewed from the north it has astonishing prominence, towering more than 6,000 feet above the valley floor below. Another unique feature of Mount Sopris is that each of its twin summits measure in at exactly the same elevation, creating a sort of conundrum for peak baggers. Many choose to just stand on the east summit, which is logical when climbing the standard Thomas Lakes route, as it is the first summit you come to. I would strongly suggest, however, making the out-and-back to the west summit, which provides a better view of Glenwood and allows you the confidence knowing that you truly toured this magnificent peak's amazing top.

DIRECTIONS
From the intersection of Highway 133 and Main Street in Carbondale, follow Hwy 133 south for about 1.6 miles and turn left (east) on Prince Creek Rd. After cruising through some small open ranch properties, continue along the road as it veers east. Veer right at a confusing, triangle-shaped intersection about 7.8 miles after the 133/Main Street intersection. Continue along the narrowing dirt road for a little less than two more miles to a large parking lot with a bathroom on the left. It should be passable in the summer for most passenger cars though some clearance might be recommended. Can be tough in the winter.

ROUTES
Thomas Lakes
Mount Sopris in the Elk Range of Colorado
Storm over Sopris from the meadow at 9,500 feet
This is the standard route and though there are several more rugged possibilities on the peak's south and west aspects, 99.9% of summer ascents on Mount Sopris are done this way. It can be done in one day though a night at the beautiful Thomas Lakes makes hauling a light backpack well worth it. Start up the wide trail up a mild incline for .6 miles to the first major switchback. At mile 1 the trail turns south and emerges from the trees shortly after. At mile 1.4 you reach a common "shortcut" that climbs directly south up a steeper slopes. This shortcut cuts off a large switchback. Taking the shortcut will save you almost half a mile and both have a well-beaten trail. Taking the old road, however, you will wind around a hill, and climb up a short steep section to reach a meadow at mile 2. There is a beautiful view of the mountain from here at 9,500 feet. Ahead you re-enter the trees and wind though a beautiful aspen-pine area with a trickling stream. At mile 3.4 you reach the first pond, and at mile 3.7 you reach the first lake. There are several number campsites in this area.

Mount Sopris from Thomas Lakes
Mount Sopris from Thomas Lakes
Hike between and around Thomas Lakes and follow the well-defined trail as it switchbacks up a hill and reaches the northeast ridge proper at 10,600 feet. The trees are noticeably thinning here and you will get the feeling you are nearing treeline. The trail levels out briefly before starting up the meat of the climb. Pick your way through the talus along the beaten path as the route steepens. Some amazing views of capitol open to the southeast. Pass the hardest steepest section (class 2) at mile 5.7 (~12,000 feet), veer westerly, still following the beaten climber's trail and the ridge. Bypass a false summit on the left (south) to reach a spot we always called "the Grassy Knoll," a peaceful patch of flat grass at 12,400 feet. There isn't much left so we always took advantage of a good rest here.

Follow the ramp up mostly stable talus as it makes the final climb to a bump at 12,900 feet. You are very close. Hike another .15  of a mile (6.6 miles total) gradually up to the east summit. Enjoy the view.

The final ramp to the East summit
For those that want to get the full twin-summit Sopris experience, be prepared to add 1.5 miles and 560 feet of total elevation gain onto your already lengthy day. From the east summit, hike .3 miles to the 12,660-foot saddle between the two summits (making it just shy of qualifying as two separate "ranked" peaks), and back up 280 feet and .35 miles to the west summit. Pat yourself on the back. Though you may feel tired, take heart knowing you got the full Sopris experience.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
Part of the route lies in the Snowmass-Maroon Bells Wilderness Area and special wilderness regulations apply. Please only camp in the designated and numbered spots around the lakes. There are some very good sites here and if you are climbing the peak on a weekend or any day when there is a chance that all of these sites might be full, get there early or consider doing just the single day method.

LINKS
Mount Sopris: A Mountain and a Totem- A look back on my first climb of Mount Sopris, a summit that launched my mountain-climbing career.

 Just Say No! to John Denver Peak- an article against the fizzled-out movement to rename the East summit of Mount Sopris John Denver Peak

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

find us on facebook


Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.

Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
For information about how to contact us, visit this link


Wednesday, October 30, 2013

VIDEO: Independence Monument- Colorado's Moderate Desert Tower

A close-up look at a recent climb of Otto's Route (III 5.9) on Independence Tower in the Colorado National Monument. Otto's Route was first put-up in 1911 by John Otto. Though he did some major chipping (obvious in the video) he completed the climb in cowboy boots and with a hemp rope.



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Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.

Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
For information about how to contact us, visit this link


Friday, October 25, 2013

VIDEO: Ashima Shiraishi Bouldering in Colorado

Ashima Shiraishi is one of the most exciting up-and-coming climbers on the scene. She exploded onto the radar of the climbing world when she became the youngest climber of either gender to climb V13 and 5.14c. In this video, we catch up with Ashima as she takes on some of the hardest bouldering problems in the state.

 
On the Road from Evolv Climbing on Vimeo.





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Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.

Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
For information about how to contact us, visit this link


Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Peak of the Week: Crestone Peak (14,294 feet)

INTRO
Crestone Peak and Crestone Needle
Late fall dusting of snow of Crestone Peak and
its neighbor Crestone Needle
Without question, Crestone Peak is one of Colorado's most spectacular mountains. It is the anchor of the Sangre De Cristo Range, and its crown jewel. It is rugged, picturesque and intimidating. In terms of mountaineering, climbers will find that "The Peak" is one of the most challenging and technically difficult of Colorado's 14ers. But for the advanced mountaineer, more options are available on the rugged peaks of this massif than almost anywhere else in the state.

Crestone Peak is a classic mountain, one that Colorado can be proud of. The Sangres in general leap from the surrounding valleys with abrupt and awe-inspiring sharpness. These mountains define what it means to be rugged. As Colorado's 7th highest peak, Crestone Peak is the tallest mountain in the state that requires class 3 scrambling to obtain its summit.

Composed of cobbled, conglomerate rock, Crestone Peak and its neighbors are unique to Colorado geology, and climbing them is an experience that no mountaineer, either native or visiting, could ever forget. It is a mountain and a range with a unique personality.

DIRECTIONS
South Colony Lake Trailhead- South Colony Lake is the ideal and most popular base camp for the majority of Crestone Peak routes. It is a good base of operations, in fact, for most of the neighboring peaks as well, making multiple-summit trips logistically viable. From Westcliffe, follow Highway 69 for 4.5 miles south. Veer south (right) onto Colfax Lane (County Road 119). Follow this road straight until you reach a T-intersection with Country Road 120 (South Colony Road). Turn right and follow this road 1.5 miles to the trailhead. 4WD vehicles can continue for as many as four more miles to a high trailhead at 11,000 feet. This road is notoriously bad and sometimes a gate may block it off at 9,800 feet.

ROUTES
South Face (class 3, moderate snow)-
The South Face route on Crestone Peak is almost always the easiest route on the peak. However, this route is long, complicated and almost always entails ascending some moderate sections of snow. From South Colony Lakes, climb a couloir to Broken Hand Pass. Descend to Cottonwood Lake (accessible via a long trail through private property with permission) and climb a vague couloir up the south face to a notch between the main summit and a sub-summit. Scramble a couple hundred more feet to the top.

Northwest Couloir (class 3, steep snow/ice)-
Crestone Peak stands proud
This route is more straightforward and entails less elevation gain than the South Face route, but is generally more difficult and dangerous. Depending on conditions, the couloir with either be a steep but good snow climb, or a mess of icy, rubble-infested ledges. A helmet, crampons and ice axe are recommended in almost any season.

Peak to Needle Traverse (class 5.2, moderate snow)- This popular and challenging traverse is listed in Gerry Roach's guidebook Colorado's Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs as "one of Colorado's four great Fourteener traverses" and for good reason. This route is a spectacular way to visit both of these astounding Colorado peaks. Though originally listed as class 4, standard consensus these days is that there is some limited low class 5 terrain on this route. The most popular way to tackle this route is by climbing Crestone Peak's Northwest Couloir route first, traversing from Peak to Needle, and descending Crestone Needle's South Face. Arguments have been made for doing the traverse in the opposite direction of for starting on the Peak's South Face route instead. This all depends on your skill and mountain conditions. One thing is for sure that this route is long, committing and complicated so plan accordingly.

North Pillar (class 5.8)-
This is the premier technical route on Crestone Peak, and one of the harder alpine climbing in the Sangres. It is not as popular or well-known as the Ellingwood Arete (see a video of climbers on the Ellingwood Arete) on Crestone Needle but is still worth mentioning here. The North Pillar is a ten-pitch climb on the mountain's northeast face, with the crux 5.8 pitch coming about two-thirds of the way up. Be prepared for runouts, complicated route-finding, and some unforgettable knob-pulling on the famous Sangre conglomerate!

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
The South Colony Lakes are in the Sangre De Cristo Wilderness Area and special regulations apply. These mostly focus on the carryout of waste. Check out the fact sheet for the Sangre De Cristo Wilderness Area for more information.

LINKS
Crestone Peak on 14ers.com

The Crestones on mountainproject.com

Crestone Peak on Summitpost.org

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Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.

Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
For information about how to contact us, visit this link


Thursday, October 3, 2013

Feature: Lost in the San Juans

The Grenadiers:
A Week of Rain, Lightning and Getting Lost in Colorado’s Largest Wilderness
by Brian Wright

Arrow and Vestal Peak
Arrow and Vestal Peak coming out of the fog
I’d lost my fiancée. Sometime between when she yelled ahead to tell me she wanted to stop and take photos of some flowers and when I’d sat three minutes later on a log to wait for her to catch up, we’d gotten separated. “Ella!” I screamed at the top of my lungs, running in my heavy hiking boots back up the steep trail towards Vestal Basin. My legs were tired, my ankle injured. We had just spent the previous day battling up the 1,500-foot trail from Elk Creek to the base of Vestal Peak in Colorado’s Weminuche Wilderness on a trail that had proven not to be a trail at all. What we had hoped would be a short, albeit steep, hike had turned into a multi-hour obstacle course of downed lumber and loose rock.

An hour had gone by since we’d last seen each other. The worst of all possibilities were surfacing in my mind. Maybe she’d fallen on the uneven “trail”. Maybe she’d had to go back to camp for a forgotten item. The horrifying thought even occurred to me, since she’d seemingly disappeared without a trace, that a mountain lion had dragged her off the trail. At that point, anything seemed possible.

The clouds were building, again. Although we had had a morning of beautiful blue skies, already the storms that had dominated every afternoon of our week-long backpack trip were returning. I ran farther up the trail, almost all the way back to our camp from the previous evening. There was no sign of her. “Where did you go?” I yelled fruitlessly. I’d read about people in situations like this, but I’d never been in one myself. I needed to find someone to help. I needed to find her. As the storms built and my desperation deepened, I knew there was no way I could leave Vestal Basin until I found her.
*                              *                             *

The Weminuche Wilderness Area is the largest wilderness in Colorado. At nearly half a million acres, it encompasses a huge swath of the San Juan Mountains in-between the towns of Durango and Silverton. There are over 500 miles of trails through the Weminuche, including a portion of the popular Colorado Trail, and countless other rugged passes and unmaintained routes.

Wham Ridge and Vestal Peak
Wham Ridge of Vestal Peak in the Grenadier
Range of the San Juan Montains
But it wasn’t the trails that we had come for, but the mountains, and no other place in the state boasts so rugged and dramatic a collection of high peaks. In ten square miles at the heart of the Weminuche, there are 10 of Colorado’s 104 highest peaks, including four fourteeners (Sunlight, Eolus, North Eolus, and Windom) and many of Colorado’s most classic thirteeners. Our sights had been set on the Grenadier Range, a sub-range of the San Juan Mountains that runs east to west a few miles south of Silverton. The Grenadiers are a chain of dramatic quartzite peaks that form one of Colorado’s most unique and dramatic mountain skylines. Great ramps of solid, dark rock angle into the sky. In his book Colorado’s Thirteeners: 13,800 to 13,999 Feet, Gerry Roach says that the mountains of the Grenadier Range “take on a new dimension as peaks leap from a mold that could belong to another planet.” It was this unique architecture that drew us to these mountains, for some of the best and most popular technical alpine climbs in the state reside here.

Our plan had been to start at the Molas Trailhead (thereby foregoing the $85 train ride from Durango into the Animas River Canyon, which would have saved us over six miles and 1,800 feet of both elevation gain and loss) and hike down along a portion of the Colorado Trail until we could turn south into the Vestal Basin. We wanted to establish a high camp in the Vestal Basin at 11,500 feet at the very foot of the Grenadier Mountains. There we would be in perfect position to attempt the North Ridge of Arrow Peak (III 5.6) and, more importantly, Wham Ridge of Vestal Peak (II 5.4).

In every good story, however, the heroes (us) are thrown into a vibrant setting and obstacles are strewn in front of their path, the more the better. Such was the case for us as we started our journey in the rain on my 30th birthday. We encountered massive, drenching storms with wild lightning and pounding hail. We met hungry animals, steep hills, downed lumber, deceptive forks in the trail. We faced all of these with 70-pound packs laden with a week’s worth of gear and our entire supply of climbing gear hanging from our shoulders. But none of it was as frightening and mentally exhausting as losing each other.

The San Juan Mountains in the rain
Rainy and foreboding, views like this dominated our trip
An hour into my frantic search and there was still no sign of her. My voice was rough from shouting. It all seemed impossible, like a bad dream I couldn’t shake. I wanted to go home. After four days of rain and lightning and never having a weather window for us to attempt either peak, I was spent.

The only logical solution, I concluded at last, was that somehow she had gotten ahead of me. But how? I had sat and waited on the trail and she had never passed me. The only choice, it seemed, was to head down. It was a difficult decision; if she was in trouble and needed help I might be her only hope for a rescue. Shouldering my pack reluctantly, I start down the long hill.

Quickly, I found myself somewhere unrecognizable and the harsh truth settled in: it had been me who had taken the wrong trail. I had to back-track until I realized exactly where I had gotten off course. Finally back on the right path, I started downhill as fast as I could, knowing that somewhere below Ella was likely in a desperate panic just like me, thinking I too was lost. I found footprints fresh since the rain of the night before. They had to be hers.

At the bottom of the hill we were reunited at last, each as emotional as the other. We sat together resting, exhausted by our simultaneous searches for each other. After the emotions subsided we were able to laugh it off like a bad joke.

The trip wasn’t quite what we’d hoped it would be. We didn’t make either summit, we got rained on incessantly, and both of our bodies were breaking down with the enormous effort. But as we settled next to the Animas River for our last night before we hiked up the big hill back to our car, we were happy. We’d had a great adventure in one of Colorado’s most breathtaking places.

Note: This article first appeared in the September 2013 edition (Volumne Eight, Issue Five) of Our Backyard, which is a special edition inside The Nickel, the Moab Times Independent, the Fruita Times, and the Palisade Tribune


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Monday, September 30, 2013

NEWS: Mountaineers Complete Through Hike of Colorado 14ers (9/30/13)

Longs Peak at sunrise
Longs Peak where Luke DeMuth and Junaid Dawud
completed their "through hike" of all of
Colorado's 14,000-foot peaks on Sunday
According to reports by the Denver Post and on 14ers.com, Luke DeMuth and Junaid Dawud completed a successful "through hike" of all 58 of Colorado's 14,000-foot mountains on Sunday when they successfully reached summit of Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. The two climbers started their amazing trek 70 days ago in the San Luis Valley and have walked 1,300 miles and gained somewhere around 300,000 feet of elevation.

Though the duo were the first to accomplish the feat, they have stated they were simply "jonesing for a long hike," and that setting records was not a major factor in the decision to undertake the journey. The two had to overcome numerous difficulties, including many days of rain, hail, and "brutal" miles of pavement, but they say they never once seriously considered giving up.

DeMuth and Dawud successfully reached the summit of all 53 of Colorado's "official" 14ers as well as five of the "unofficial" summits, such as North Maroon Peak in the Elk Range, as well. Not only did they undertake the epic adventure for their own enjoyment but they have also been raising money for Big City Mountaineers, an organization whose goal is to "transform the lives of under-served urban youth through wilderness mentoring expeditions that instill critical life skills" according to the mission statement on their website. To read more about their adventures, check out their official website 14ersthruhike.com.

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Thursday, August 29, 2013

Colorado 14ers the Hard Way

The North Face of Longs Peak and the Old Cables Route
Longs Peak at sunrise
Tired of the crowds on Colorado's 14ers? Bored by the standard routes on most of them anyway? Here is an interesting ticklist that provides a unique and much more challenging way to reach the summit of Colorado's 14ers. For some mountains that boast several worthy technical candidates, I have provided a "regular" option and a "legend" option. Anyone who climbs all of the routes on this list by the "legend" option is certainly worthy of the title. (Should anyone complete this trip and want to write about it, I would love to hear your story. Email us at coloradomountaineering2010@gmail.com). If the mountain has other pages in the Colorado Mountaineering database (including mountain profiles, featured routes or trip reports) you can click on the mountain to find these. It is also worth noting that the following  is the "59 List" which includes the 53 "ranked" 14ers plus six common additions (noted in the list with an "*"). Also included is Sunlight Spire, another unofficial peak that is not a 14er by the traditional 1929 datum. Here they are in order of height:

(note: the elevations are based on the customary 1929 datum. The 1988 datum, thought to be more accurate, raises the elevation from 3-8 feet on each peak. Interestingly, however, the mountaineering world most commonly refers to the heights of these peaks by the old datum calibration)

1. Mount Elbert (14,433' or 4401 m)
Box Creek Couloir (class 2+/moderate snow)- This mellow to moderate snow climb on the east face of Colorado's tallest mountain provides the most challenging way to climb Mt. Elbert. Start as for the North Mount Elbert trail and veer onto the face from around treeline. This also makes for a good, steep ski descent.

2. Mount Massive (14,421' or 4396 m)
North Massive Traverse (class 3)- traversing from "North Massive" to Mount Massive requires some loose, exposed class 3 climbing and is the most technically challenging route on the Massive's massif. Start as for the West Ridge route but veer toward North Massive at around 13,500'. After reaching North Massive you begin the traverse to Mount Massive. This is where the class 3 terrain lies.

3. Mount Harvard (14,420' or 4395 m)
The Rabbits (class 5.7)- the direct traverse from Mt. Harvard to Mt. Columbia provides a unique and technical route in a range that is otherwise known for being easy. Doing the traverse from Columbia to Harvard requires a short pitch of technical class 5.7 climbing. If you do the traverse  from Harvard to Columbia you can rappel this pitch.

4. Mount Blanca (14,345' or 4372 m)
Gash Ridge (class 5.4)- Gash Ridge is the east ridge of Mount Blanca. It is a long, exposed traverse, and while the climb itself isn't particularly long, it is very committing and loose. Caution is paramount to a successful climb, as is cooperative weather.

Legend: Ormes Buttress (class 5.6)- Ormes Buttress climbs the Blanca's northeast face. The route is reported as decent but plauged by loose rock and bad protection. This route has not seen many ascents in recent years. Still there is quality here. Retreat is difficult and be prepared to do lots of 4th and low 5th class climbing.

*4a. "North Massive" (14,340' or 4370 m)
North Massive Traverse (class 3)- As for Mount Massive, this is the most challenging way to climb the "North Massive," an un-ranked 14er that has 280' of topographical prominence making it just short of achieving "rank" by typical Colorado standards. Traversing from "North Massive" to Mount Massive requires some loose, exposed class 3 climbing. Start as for the West Ridge route but veer toward North Massive at around 13,500'. After reaching North Massive you begin the traverse to Mount Massive. This is where the class 3 terrain lies.

5. La Plata Peak (14,336' or 4369 m)
Ellingwood Ridge (class 3)- Ellingwood Ridge is a classic and excellent class 3 climb. In my opinion it is one of the best routes on any Colorado 14er at the class 3 level. When you climb the standard Northwest Ridge, Ellingwood is obvious. It is essentially the northeast ridge of the mountain, though it curves across the entire northern slope. It is log, mostly solid, and famous, as it is named after famous Colorado mountaineer Albert Ellingwood.

6. Uncompahgre (14,309' or  4361 m)
West Face (class 2, moderate snow)- The different snow couloirs on the west face of this gentle giant probably provide the most technical challenge for the more advanced mountaineer. In good conditions, there are several options, all of which are similar in terms of technical difficulty, but some are longer than others. There is the possibility of a direct finish from the central couloir that involves climbing some gnarly, manky class 4 (your Legend challenge) up the northern end of the summit cliffs. This option may be ill-advised due to the rock quality, though the position is incredible.

7. Crestone Peak (14,294' or 4356 m)
Peak/Needle Traverse (5.easy)- The Crestone Peak/Crestone Needle Traverse is one of the classic Alpine traverses of Colorado. It is exciting and exposed and requires some route-finding and semi-technical climbing that most choose to do unroped. This traverse is a significant step in difficulty from either of the standard routes.

Legend: North Pillar (5.8)- The North Pillar of Crestone Peak is an infrequently climbed but viable Sangre De Cristo route on what is arguably one of Colorado's most dramatic 14ers. This route has some issues with runouts and loose rock and is not as classic as the Ellingwood Arete on its twin, Crestone Needle, but it is a viable and exciting alpine climb.

8. Mount Lincoln (14,286' or 4354 m)
Lincoln Ampitheatre (class 2+)- It is hard to make much of Lincoln, but this route is a way to see Lincoln from a direction other than Kite Lake and is probably more difficult than the standard DeCaLiBron route.

9. Grays Peak (14,270' or 4349 m)
Lost Rat Couloir (class 2, moderate snow)- The Lost Rat Couloir is a surprisingly good alternative to the busy and tame Gray's Peak trail. In good conditions this route is an excellent initiation into the world of snow couloir climbing.

10. Mount Antero (14,269' or 4349 m)
North Ridge (class 2, moderate snow)- Antero is another mountain it is hard to make much of. This route has little to recommend unless the snow conditions are ideal. Beware! This is a known avalanche chute! If the snow is right, it can be fun. When the snow is gone, it is rotten and ill-advised. Acceptable alternative: Though it is not technically harder than the standard route, either Little Browns or Browns Creek offer off-the-beaten path alternatives that are worthy of this list because they require considerably more distance and elevation gain than the traditional route, thus "harder".

11. Torreys Peak (14,267' or 4348 m)
Kelso Ridge (class 3)- Kelso Ridge is a worthy adversary for the 14er enthusiast that wants more than the over-crowded Grays/Torreys standard. Look down on the crowds with contempt on this classic class 3 line. Kelso follows the northeast ridge of Torreys and forms the right-hand skyline for much of the Grays Peak trail standard route.

12. Castle Peak (14,265' or 4347 m)
Castle Couloir (class 2, moderate snow)- Though this route shares the same approach, it is a considerable step-up from the standard Northeast Ridge.

Legend: West Ridge (class 3)- This long route take the Conundrum Hot Springs trail to the Conundrum Hot Springs. This route is probably best done as a backpack. Enjoy the hot springs (don't expect solitude in most seasons and keep in mind that water quality at the springs themselves has been called into question recently) and ascend a loose, adventures route up the west ridge. You can also climb "Castleabra," one of Colorado's 200 highest peaks.

13. Quandary Peak (14,265' or 4347 m)
Quandary Couloir (class 4, steep snow)- This couloir is on Quandary's northern side and provides an excellent and exciting route when in good conditions that is a stark contrast to the standard East Slopes route that is known for being easy.

Legend: Inwood Arete (5.5)- There are several ways to climb this "arete" and the difficulty and protection will vary depending on where you start.

14. Mount Evans (14,264' or 4347 m)
The Sawtooth (class 3-4)- This truly belongs here, as you typically make this classic traverse after climbing Mt. Bierstadt on your way to Evans. The Sawtooth is one of my favorite class 3 Colorado climbs, and should be on any Colorado mountaineer's list.

Legend: Summit Apron, 2nd Apron (class 5.7-5.8)- The summit Aprons on the north side of Mt. Evans have some amazing alpine rock climbing. This is a growing an developing area. Any of the routes on the 2nd Apron are good. The 2nd Apron Right Side (III 5.7) is probably the most frequently climbed. Add in that you can do these climbs with zero approach and you can see the appeal.

15. Longs Peak (14,255' or 4344 m)
Kiener's Route (5.4, moderate snow)- Kiener's Route is one of the most classic mountaineering routes on a peak literally covered in world-class lines. Kiener's route is the way to climb Longs unbelievable east face without taking on the Diamond directly. Kiener's has a little of everything: a tricky snow climb (The Lamb's Slide), huge exposure on the Broadway traverse, and several pitches of tricky class 5.4 climbing on the confusing terrain near the eastern edge of the world-famous Diamond.

Legend: The Diamond (IV 5.10)- Any one of the routes on the Diamond will certainly fulfill your qualifications for the Longs portion of your Legend title. The recommended routes would be The Casual Route (IV 5.10a), Pervertical Santucary (IV 5.10d), D7 (IV 5.11c), or Ariana (IV 5.12a) in order of difficulty, though there are quite a few others.

16. Wilson Peak (14,246' or 4342 m)
East Face (class 4, moderate snow)- An excellent snow climb with a longer than usual season. After the excellent snow climb (if conditions are good), you will have to take on the summit cap from a different angle than the standard route.

*16a. Cameron Peak (14,238' or 4339 m)
How can one make Cameron harder? I'd be happy if you skipped over and tagged it after climbing The Lincoln Amphitheater. Or perhaps you could climb it in the winter. Since Cameron is probably the weakest of the included unranked peaks, you could skip it altogether. You decide what makes you feel official on this one.

17. Shavano Peak (14,229' or 4337 m)
Angel of Shavano (class 2, easy snow)- This excellent, introductory-level snow climb is not as challenging as most of the other climbs on this list, but is still worthy because it ascends an excellent and historical feature and is more technically challenging than the standard route.

18. Mount Princeton (14,197' or 4327 m)
For the first time I am stumped. This is a hard one to make harder, there just arent many options and they really are all about the same in terms of technical difficulty. I propose three possibilities: doing the standard route but starting on foot at the bottom trailhead and not driving up to the radio tower (adds almost 2,000 vertical feet) or doing the Southwest Ridge route that, although is probably about the same in difficulty, is at least something different.

19. Mount Belford (14,197' or 4327 m)
Another tough one. Climb Belford and Oxford in the same day but by coming from Oxford after having climbed the East Ridge route (see subsequent entry).

20. Crestone Needle (14,197' or 4327 m)
Peak/Needle Traverse (5.easy)- The Crestone Peak/Crestone Needle Traverse is one of the classic Alpine traverses of Colorado. It is exciting and exposed and requires some route-finding and semi-technical climbing that most choose to do unroped. This traverse is a significant step in difficulty from either of the standard routes.

Legend: Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)- This is one of the most classic at best-known alpine climbs in Colorado and thus is a mandatory inclusion on this list. This historic route is named after Albert Ellingwood who first climbed it in 1925. This route is also particularly well-known since it was included in the famous book 50 Classic Climbs of North America.

21. Mount Yale (14,196' or 4327 m)
East Ridge (class 2)- For once I am truly stumped. This route is no harder than the standard route but it does gain 600 feet of additional elevation and is something different than the over-used Southwest Slopes standard route.

22. Mount Bross (14,177' or 4321 m)
Since currently there is no legal way to climb Mount Bross, I am going to leave this one essentially blank. Even if there were legal access to the summit, Bross is one of the most rounded and blobby of all Colorado's 14ers. A quick out-and-back during the DeCaLiBron would be more than enough for my tastes to qualify for this list. Move on to the next project....

23. Kit Carson Peak (14,165' 4317 m)
North Ridge (class 4)- This intimidating-looking ridge is probably best done from Willow Lake. The ridge is fairly direct though there are plenty of options for route finding. The rock is remarkably solid but nonetheless it is still important to be mindful of loose rock.

Legend: The Prow (5.8)- The Prow is one of Colorado's coolest and most unique technical 14er climbs. The Prow follows the exposed fin on the southwest ridge of the peak. While the protection on this strange conglomerate rock is not always ample, pulling on the knobs and bulges of the Crestone conglomerate is one of the most exhilarating experiences in the Colorado mountains, and this route is arguably the best. Despite its moderate rating, this climb is exposed and committing and certainly no place to be if you in-experienced (or in a storm).

*23a. El Diente (14,159' or 4316 m)
West Ridge (class 4)- The West Ridge route on El Diente is a long, more complicated and much more exposed route than either the common North Slopes (class 3, steep snow) or the North Buttress (class 4). Depending on the conditions the final mile of this route will include either a long, complicated traverse, or a long knife-edge scoot fest.

24. Maroon Peak (14,156' or 4315 m)
The Bell Chord Couloir (class 4, steep snow)- Though I don't really care which order you decided to do them in, for the purposes of this list I suggest climbing The Bell Chord and the Maroon>North Maroon Traverse as a "hard" way to climb both of these peaks.  Seemingly this would require two ascents, one of which would be, in part, a grueling repeat. With this in mind, I suggest the following: ascend the Bell Chord Couloir and climb each of the peaks, traversing across to hit both summits. Descend either of the standard routes.

25. Tabeguache Peak (14,155 or 4314 m)
Northeast Slopes (class 2)- This route isn't more difficult technically than either of the standard routes (via the now closed West Ridge or by traversing over from Mt. Shavano) but it is longer and more adventurous, requiring 17 miles of hiking and over 5,000 feet of elevation gain.

26. Mount Oxford (14,153' or 4313 )
East Ridge (class 2)- This route is not harder than the West Ridge route (which requires traversing over from Mt. Belford) but requires more distance. To complete this list you mist climb Oxford from the East Ridge, traverse over to Belford and back. Now that is a long day....


27. Mount Sneffels (14,150' or 4312 m)
Southwest Ridge (class 3)- The Southwest Ridge of Mount Sneffels is one of Colorado's best class 3 lines. It entails a lot of good scrambling, some exposure, and some loose rock. It is a less populated and higher quality version of the standard Southeast Ridge (class 2+) and a full grade level more difficult.

Alternative: Snake Couloir (class 3, steep snow)
The Snake Gully on Sneffels' dramatic Nouth Face, is one of Colorado's best moderate snow climbs on a 14er. The route winds its way like its namesake up the picturesque and rugged face. It is quiet compared to the routes on the mountain's southern side, and high quality couloir climbing for over 1,000 feet.

Legend: North Buttress (III 5.6)- The North Buttress is the premier technical route on Mt. Sneffels. It takes the steep ridge/buttress just to the left of the Snake Couloir. Expect loose rock, route-finding challenges, and some runout protection.

28. Mount Democrat (14,148' or 4312 m)
North Ridge (class 3)- This is a surprising scramble on a mountain that is known for being easy. While most routes on Democrat climb from a high trailhead at Kite Lake (12,000 feet) this climb is usually attempted from the other side of the mountain at Montgomery Reservoir (10,900 feet). There is some good scrambling here and some choss. Climb smart and careful and get to experience this mountain from a whole different perspective.

29. Capitol Peak (14,130' or 4306 m)
North Ridge of K2>Northeast Ridge Direct (class 5.easy)- From the Daly/Capitol saddle, follow the ridge direct instead of traversing down into the basin. This adds considerable class 4 to the standard route. Rejoin the standard route near K2 and follow it across the Knife Edge. Leave the standard route as it traverses out onto the East Face and follow the east ridge directly to the summit (low class 5).

Legend: Northwest Ridge (5.7 or 5.9)- The Northwest Ridge is an intimidating climb on an notorious mountain. The rock is loose and the terrain is very steep. It is generally accepted nowadays that the 5.9 start is better, as the rock is much more solid and the lower pitches are the best of the climb. This somewhat rarely climbed route is a Colorado classic for the worthy alpinist.

30. Pikes Peak (14,110' or 4301 m)
Y-Couloir (class 3, steep snow)- Pikes Peak at times feels like the gentle giant of Colorado 14ers, but it does have a wild side. The most challenging routes on Pikes all exist on the mountains North Face, which steepens in a set of inset couloirs near the mountain's summit. The Y-Couloir ascends a line on the western side of the mountain's most rugged face.

Snowmass from the West
31. Snowmass Mountain (14,092' or 4295 m)
S-Ridge (class 3)- The S-Ridge is an infrequently climbed and dangerous route on Snowmass Mountain. Since I believe it to be only slightly more difficult than the standard route and way less fun, I would also call climbing the standard route in the winter an acceptable alternative.

32. Windom Peak (14,087' or 4294 m)
Northwest Face (class 3, moderate snow)- This face is an inexact line up an impressive face that holds snow well into summer. It is more difficult and more involved than the standard West Ridge route.

33. Mount Eolus (14,084' or 4293 m)
South Ridge (class 4)- Though it uses the same Needleton approach, this route takes on Eolus by a whole different side. This ridge is longer and much more complicated than the standard Northeast Ridge, and is not climbed very often at all.

34. Challenger Point (14,081' or 4292 m)
Kirk Couloir (class 2, steep snow)- This quality snow climb is a step up in technical demand from the standard North Slopes route. The couloir itself is over 800 feet long and reaches around 50 degrees in steepness.

35. Mount Columbia (14,073' or 4289 m)
East Ridge (class 2)- The East Ridge isn't really harder than the standard West Slopes route, but it is longer and gains about 700 feet of additional elevation. My recommendation is to climb Columbia via this route than traverse to Harvard via the Rabbits. This will complete your requirements for these peaks for this list, but it isn't particularly convenient since both routes are better accessed from different trailheads. With a car-shuttle it is possible to go in from Three Elks trailhead and come out the North Cottonwood trail. This might be your best bet to knock both of these routes in one day/journey.
North Face of Missouri in July

36. Mount Missouri (14,067' or 4288 m)
North Face (class 3, moderate snow)- The North Face of Mount Missouri offers an exciting and different way to take on this rugged Sawatch gem. From high in Missouri Gulch choose one of the couloirs on the obvious north face and climb it to the top. Depending on which couloir you choose you will join the Northwest Ridge for the final traverse to the summit.

37. Humboldt Peak (14,064' or 4287 m)
Since there are no routes on Humboldt more challenging than the standard West Ridge from South Colony Lakes, I am stumped once again. I would suggest climbing it in the winter, but that necessitates a separate trip to a tightly compacted region. Logistically it makes little sense. Just make it to the summit, okay.

Legend: the true legend will take the extra step and make something of Humboldt by climbing it in the winter.

38. Mount Bierstadt (14,060' or 4285 m)
East Ridge (class 3)- The East Ridge is an excellent way make more of a peak that is generally considered to be easy. The following is the recommended (and quite hard) way to satisfy both Mt. Evans and Mt. Bierstadt in one shot. Climb the East Ridge to the summit of Bierstadt. Traverse to Evans via the Sawtooth Ridge (class 3). Lots of distance and lots of scrambling to get to this point, but now it is time for the long descent. Follow the Mt. Evans road down to 13,400 feet. At the apex of a prominent switchback, descend south towards the saddle between Mt. Evans and Mt. Epaulet (13,523 feet). Turn west and descend steeply through a notch following Mt. Evans' Southwest Slopes (class 2) route. Connect with the Abyss Lake trail around 12,000 feet and follow it 6.5 miles back to your car at Scott Gomer Creek. Phew! Or, if that sounds like too big of a day, climb the Sawtooth and the East Ridge separately.

*38a. Conundrum Peak (14,060' or 4285 m)
Conundrum Couloir (class 3, steep snow)- Conundrum Couloir is one of the better and more defined couloirs in the Elk Range. From high in Montezuma Basin, climb the steep couloir for 5oo feet to the saddle between Conundrum's two summits. There is often a cornice near the top.

Legend- climb the couloir in the winter and ski down it.

39. Sunlight Peak (14,059' or 4285 m)
West Ridge (class 4)- This excellent San Juan classic should be a must do for any true San Juan aficionado. This is a more difficult and involved way to climb Sunlight than the standard South Slopes route. This route has more class 3 scrambling and more class 4 scrambling than the South Slopes. And you still have to deal with the summit cap just the same.

40. Handies Peak (14,048' or 4282 m)
Tour De Grizzly (class 2, moderate snow)- This climb, listed as "Tour De Grizzly" (numbered 28R9 V1) in Gerry Roach's Colorado Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs, ascends a long snow gully to Point 12,792. From here you traverse along the ridge over several strenuous bumps to the summit.

41. Culebra Peak (14,047' or 4281 m)
Unfortunately there is only one option for climbing this mountain for now due to private property. In order to boycott what I believe are exorbitantly high prices to climb this mountain (over $100 nowadays), I recommend deleting this mountain from your 14er list...for now.

42. Mount Lindsey (14,042' or 4280 m)
North Couloir (class 2, moderate snow)- Another good snow climb and a way to see Lindsey from a different perspective. This climb ascends a relatively mild couloir directly to the summit. On descent, follow the class 3 Northwest Ridge variation to the standard North Face for full value.

43. Ellingwood Point (14,042' or 4280 m)
Southwest Ridge (class 3)- An excellent and more difficult alternative to the class 2 standard South Face route. This awesome scramble is not horribly difficult but is worth its weight in fun.

Legend: North Ridge (5.easy)- This scary route makes quite a challenge out of Ellingwood Point and offers quite a little challenge.

*43a. North Eolus (14,039' or 4279 m)
This short, unofficial summit does have much power or many options. Just climb it and move on....

44. Little Bear (14,037' or 4278 m)
Northwest Face (5.easy)- Though you do not have to face the dreaded Hourglass, this route is long, ore sustained and more dangerous than the standard West Ridge (Hourgalss) route. An acceptable alternative would be the treacherous and brutally long Southwest Ridge, which I also believe is more difficult than the Hourglass.

45. Mount Sherman (14,036' or 4278 m)
Another lump of a mountain without many options. Climb Mount Sherman in the winter by any route.

46. Redcloud Peak (14,034' or 4277 m)
West Gullies (class 2, moderate snow)- When conditions are good there are several options for an easy snow climb that are definitely more challenging than the standard Northeast Ridge.

47. Pyramid Peak (14,018' or 4273 m)
Northwest Ridge (class 4)- Though Pyramid's standard Northeast Ridge route is probably more difficult than several of the route on this list, there is a way to make Pyramid harder. Starting from the same basin at 12,000 feet, this route veers away from the standard route and takes on the mountain from the other side.

48. Wilson Peak (14,017' or 4272 m)
As of now there is only one syndicated route on Wilson Peak, the standard West Ridge. You could make it more of a challenge by seeking out a lesser-known route, pioneering your own new route, or climbing it in the winter. But then, do you climb Wilson Peak and Mount Wilson both in winter? Or do separate trips to the area?

49. Wetterhorn Peak (14,015' or 4271 m)
East Ridge (class 4)- Climb the slightly longer and more difficult East Ridge of Wetterhorn which circles around an still enjoys the famous summit pitch of Wetterhorn's standard Southeast Ridge.

50. San Luis Peak (14,014' or 4271 m)
Pointfest (class 3)- This nifty idea comes from Gerry Roach's Colorado's Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs, a book that any 14er aficionado should posses. You will find most of these routes in that book. In this case, Roach numbered the route 26R2 V1 in the third edition. In my mind there is no other way for an aspiring Legend or anyone attempting 14ers the Hard Way than this. This huge traverse is a variation of the South Ridge that follows instead a ridge along the Continental Divide up and over four summits, three of which are over 13,000 feet and two of which are ranked.

*50a. North Maroon Peak (14,014' or 4271 m)
Maroon/North Maroon Traverse (5.easy)- The Bell Cord and the Traverse are interchangeable. I recommend combining the two by climbing the Bell Cord and traversing between the two summits once on the saddle. This makes for a tough day worthy of the Hard Way list.

51. Mount of the Holy Cross (14,005' or 4269 m)
Cross Couloir (class 3, steep now)- This classic line is famous for two reasons: its quality and intensity as a snow couloir and ski descent, and its association with the namesake religious feature (the climb ascends the center of the cross).

Legend:  A mountaineering legend would climb the cross and ski back down it.... If you are a legend but not a skiing legend then climb both this and either Halo Ridge or Angelica preferably but not obligatorily on the same trip.

52. Huron Peak (14,003' or 4268 m)
East Slopes (class 2)- Though a 4WD vehicle can shorten this route to as little as 5 miles, it is the most difficult terrain on an established Huron route and from the standard trailhead at Rockdale (9,940 feet) it is almost two miles longer than the easier Northwest Slopes route. The other appealing aspect of this climb is that it takes on Huron from the completely opposite side as the other, more popular routes.

53. Sunshine Peak (14,001' or 4267 m)
Northwest Ridge (class 2+)- This route is a little more difficult than the standard Northeast Ridge. A recomended link-up would be to combine this with Redcloud's West Gullies route to satisfy your "Hard Way" criteria for both these peaks at once. Hard to say if doing the traverse one way or the other is more difficult, that might depend more on your strengths and/or weaknesses.

*53a. Sunlight Spire (14,000' or 4266 m)
Legend: Standard Route (5.10c)- According to the 1988 datum, Sunlight Spire just reaches the 14,000' mark. Though it doesn't have 300' of prominence and is not an official 14er (or even ranked at all), it is the hardest peak in the state to reach the summit of by the easiest route and it perhaps the most airy and astounding 14,000' perch in the Lower 48. How could any self-respecting Legend not climb this?

*indicates a mountain that does not meet the qualifications for being "ranked" (at least 300 feet of topographical prominence)

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