Showing posts with label lists. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lists. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 21, 2017

Top 8 Least Busy 14ers in Colorado

The companion piece to last week's Top 8 Busiest 14ers post, this article takes data from the same sources (ListsofJohn.com, 14ers.com, and Summitpost.org) and approximates the least busy 14ers in Colorado.

Least popular mountains in Colorado
Capitol Peak in the distance from Snowmass Mtn, number
six on this list
Anybody who has climbed a 14er in the last 10 years knows they are popular, and getting more so all the time as "ticking" them off becomes more and more trendy. So which mountains see the least action? Which are you most likely to find some semblance of solitude?

Methodology
As with the "busiest 14ers" article, we took the summit logs and reported ascents from three popular mountaineering websites and gave each a score, 1 being the least number of reports, 2 the second least and so on. We averaged those scores to create an approximation of which peaks are the least busy of the 14ers.

Possibility for Error
It is important to note that the only way to know for sure how many people actually climb these peaks would be to count every single person who climbs every single peak on every single day. This, of course, is nearly impossible. There are many ways the data here could be skewed, including bias tilted towards which mountaineers are likely to sign up and report ascents on these three websites, as well as factors such as repeat ascents and others. Regardless, we feel this list gives a good estimation of which Colorado 14ers see the least amount of traffic.

If You Really Want Solitude
If solitude is your thing, we suggest NOT climbing the 14ers. Period. Or perhaps, climbing them in the off season, like the dead of winter. Sure they are great mountains, and climbing them gives you a certain amount of clout in social circles, but if your main goal is to climb great peaks with a sense of adventure, a wilderness experience, and enjoy solitude, we suggest aiming for 13ers and 12ers. In many cases, the climbing on these peaks is just as good, arguably better, and you still get the same satisfaction that climbing any high mountain can provide.

All of that being said, here are the eight least busy 14ers according to our calculations:

1. Culebra Peak
It was no surprise that the only 14er that you must pay heavily to climb had the fewest reports of people climbing it. I have never climbed Culebra, and though I have climbed almost all of the 14ers I have no plans to do so in the immediate future. Were it of outstanding aesthetic value, not merely average as most seem to consider it, perhaps Culebra would see more use.

2. Mount Wilson
This was a bit of a surprise. Clearly there is a direct correlation between a mountain's difficulty and its relative popularity, but to see Mt. Wilson land all the way at number 2 was more than expected. Mount Wilson is Colorado's 16th highest peak. It is highly prominent and has a stunning and highly visible position relative to the popular mountain town of Telluride. All of this, however, apparently is outweighed by its long standard route, class 4 difficulty and distance from Front Range cities.

Little Bear is oft-touted as Colorado's most dangerous, if not most difficult, 14er, therefore it came as no surprise  that it landed in the top 3. I know several people that put off Little Bear until they had just a few 14ers left before completion. Add in its distance from Front Range big cities, and the reason for its relative inactivity makes sense.

4. Mount Eolus
Eolus is a hard peak to get to and somewhat more difficult than most by its standard route (class 3). And frankly, it is not very famous. I've known some people who are fairly acquainted with Colorado's backcountry that are not even aware of a 14er that goes by that strange name, Eolus.

5. Wilson Peak
The Wilson group apparently are not very busy. The reason Wilson Peak is slightly busier than Mount Wilson is probably due to its shorter and technically easier standard route. Still, however, this little corner of Colorado magnificence is significantly less crowded than other comparable destinations.

Snowmass Mountain is long, scrambly, far from Denver, and relatively low in stature for a 14er (ranked #31). We saw these factors repeating over and over while comprising this list and thus it is no surprise that Snowmass Mountain landed at #6.

Least climbed mountains in Colorado
The backside of the Maroon Bells from Frigid Air Pass
7. Sunlight Peak
The Chicago Basin 14ers are difficult to get to, and very far from Denver. The fame (or infamy) of Sunlight Peak's summit cap, however, may be the reason why it sees slightly more ascents than neighboring Eolus.

Maroon Peak is perhaps Colorado's most photographed mountain. It is a stunning and famous peak. It is also one of Colorado's most dangerous. Over half of all deaths reported on Colorado's 14ers so far this decade occurred on the Maroon Bells, the Crestones, and Longs Peak. Despite its fame, Maroon Peak apparently does not see near as much traffic as other 14ers.

Honorable Mentions
Capitol Peak, Ellingwood Point, Windom, and Pyramid Peak were all next up if we extended this list past eight. Also North Maroon, North Eolus, and El Diente would have made the top 8, but we did not include any "unranked" peaks that didn't have at least 300 feet of topographical prominence.

Analysis
There were a few surprises when the data was finally crunched to create this list. Some of these peaks, like the Maroon Bells, are quite famous, and  thus seem more popular than they are. If we were to create a list of most pageviews or photographs on these websites, a whole different set of mountains would have emerged. But popularity in terms of mythical status and internet fame did not equate to reported ascents. What wasn't surprising was that Culebra topped the list. There's one way to reduce a peak's use: charge $150 to climb it. It is also not surprising that some of the state's hardest peaks are the least busy: Sunlight, Mt. Wilson, Maroon Peak, Little Bear. And if we rounded out the list to 15, we would also have seen Pyramid Peak, Capitol Peak and both Crestones. In fact, all of these mountains here (except Culebra) are at least class 3 by their standard routes. Distance from Denver was also a clear factor, as every mountain in the top 8 is from the Sangre De Cristo, Elk and San Juan ranges. 

An interesting note that reinforced just how busy even these least popular 14ers are, Colorado's highest 13er, Grizzly Peak (which was once considered a 14er until a better survey proved otherwise) would have easily topped this list. In fact, even among the busiest 13ers we could think of (Silverheels, Meeker, Mt. Sheridan, etc.) we weren't able to find any with more reported ascents than Culebra.

Enjoy these peaks. Climb them, take care of them, but even on these mountains don't expect solitude on a summer weekend.

RELATED ARTICLES
-Ten Mountains You Probably Haven't Climbed But Should
-14ers the Hard Way
-Top 8 Busiest 14ers
-14ers are Dead

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Tuesday, February 14, 2017

Top 8 Busiest Colorado Peaks

What are the busiest 14ers in Colorado?
Morning light on Mt. Elbert
The mountains of Colorado have become crowded. Hell, Colorado as a state has become crowded. Everyone who's tried to climb a mountain here (especially the really popular ones like Longs or Elbert) has seen just how busy they can be. Trains of humanoids zig-zagging up the mountainsides by the hundreds have become a common sight. On a busy weekend, these peaks more resemble an amusement park than a wilderness adventure. 

But just which peaks are the busiest of all? While there are no stats that tell us 100% accurately how many people attempt these peaks in a given year, we have used data from several popular websites to make our best guess.

Methodology
To create this list, we used the ticklist or summit log data from three popular mountaineering websites: listsofjohn.com, 14ers.com and Summitpost.org to create a score for each mountain based on the number of people reporting ascents of each of Colorado's 14ers. We then averaged the scores together (weighing all three websites equally) to come up with an aggregate rating which we hope indicates which peaks are the busiest.

Possibilities for Error
There are several ways in which error could be introduced with this method. For example, all three of these websites are more likely to attract mountaineering enthusiasts (people so heavily engaged in the sport they are willing to not only register for such a site but actually log their ascents), thus eliminating "casual" climbers who might be drawn to certain types of mountains, like Mount Elbert (since it is the highest point in Colorado) and Longs Peak (since it is close to Denver and located in Rocky Mountain National Park). This could potentially skew the data.

Another possible error could lie in the relative "power" of each peak. In other words, people might be more likely to report and ascent of Mount Elbert, since it is the state high point, than they are of Quandary Peak, which does not carry the same clout, resulting in under-reporting of mountains that are viewed as less interesting. Repeat ascents are also not likely to be accurately accounted for since, while all three of these websites (I believe) allow you to report repeats, most likely people are far less willing to do so.

Anyway, without further ado, here is our list of the eight busiest peaks in the state of Colorado.

Quandary Peak in the snow
Near the summit of Quandary in the snow
It is not really a surprise that Grays Peak tops this list. With its convenient I-70 access, it relative proximity to the large Front Range cities, and its "easy" standard route, Grays Peak is about as user friendly of a 14er as there is.

Since Elbert is the highest peak in the state, and its standard route requires little more than a sturdy pair of legs to climb, it makes sense that it would land near the top. However, I suspect the data is skewed in Elbert's favor due to its stature and the fact that people would be more likely to report ascents of Elbert as compared to other, less famous peaks.

These two Front Range peaks came out tied in overall aggregate score. Both peaks are conveniently accessible to the Front Range big cities, and both have somewhat abbreviated routes on well-beaten trails to their summits. It is no wonder that they both two of Colorado's busiest mountains.

As the companion summit of Grays Peak, the inclusion of Torreys is no surprise. Since many climb these two peaks together, the difference between them is likely a result of the standard route on Grays Peak being just that much easier than Torreys, leading to a number of people making the summit of Grays but electing to turn around and not complete the route to the top of its neighbor.

As the first peak reached in the standard DeCaliBron (Democrat/Cameron/Lincoln/Bross) loop, Mt. Democrat is an obvious addition to this list. As with Grays, that it places higher than Lincoln, Cameron or Bross is indicative of the fact that it is usually the first of the 4-mountain loop to be climbed and not everyone is successful in completing the tour.

Since we did not count Cameron (it is not a "ranked" peak) Mount Lincoln is the second peak of the Decalibron and it makes sense that it would score just a hair lower than Democrat on the aggregate rank. 

8. Longs Peak
The north face of Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park
The North Face of Longs Peak from the Boulderfield
I was surprised not to see Longs higher on this list. The immense popularity of the Keyhole Route always seemed a cut above the others. However, it is a more difficult mountain, and more dangerous than any of the others on the list. In addition, one has to wonder how many of the people who climb this mountain fall into the aforementioned "casual" hiker group and were drawn to this peak due to its position within Rocky Mountain National Park but were not likely to register for one of the three websites used for our raw data.

Honorable Mentions
The following peaks nearly made the list: Evans, Pikes, Sherman, Bross and Massive.

So which peak was the least popular? While a "Top 8 Least Popular 14ers" may make an interesting topic for another post, it appears that (we didn't run the bottom peaks through the same number crunch) the least busy 14er in Colorado is the only one you have to pay an exorbitant fee to climb: Culebra.  

Popular or not, these mountains represent some of the most beautiful high peaks in the state and are all worthy to climb despite the crowds. Hike them, enjoy them, take care of them. Just don't go up there expecting privacy....

RELATED POSTS
-The Ranked 14ers
-10 Mountains You Probably Haven't Climbed But Should
-14ers the Hard Way
-10 Class 3 Colorado Mountaineering Classics
-10 Class 5 Colorado Mountaineering Classics

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Monday, January 16, 2017

Sixty Highest Peaks in the Elk Range

Cathedral Peak in the Elk Range of Colorado
Cathedral Peak, the highest 13er in the Elk Range
The Elk Range is one of Colorado's most spectacular. It is home to some of our state's most breathtakingly beautiful (and breathtakingly dangerous) mountains. There are five ranked 14ers in the Elk Range, including some mega-classics like Maroon Peak and Capitol Peak. But there is a bevy of lower, also amazing peaks in this relatively small range. The following list takes a close look at this gem of a range, compiling its sixty highest "ranked" peaks. This covers every peak with over 300' of topographical prominence between 12,878' and 14,265'.

This would be a very focused, yet, impressive list of mountains to climb. The Elk Range is notorious for its rotten rock and treacherous exposure. As a group these peaks have attracted a large number of accidents in the past. The Maroon Bells are the main culprit, though Snowmass Mountain, Capitol Peak, and Thunder Pyramid have had a number of fatalities as well. Tread lightly in this beautiful but deadly range.

There are two class 4 peaks, 13 class 3 peaks, 42 class 2 peaks, and three class 1 peaks on this list.

(Note: elevations are given via the classic and familiar 1929 Sea Level Datum)

Peak Name ElevationRank Difficulty easiest route (YDS)
Castle Peak 14,265' 12 class 2
Maroon Peak 14,156'24 class 3
Capitol Peak 14,130' 29 class 4
Snowmass Mountain 14,092' 31 class 3
Pyramid Peak 14,018'47 class 4
Cathedral Peak 13,943' 62 class 3
"Thunder Pyramid" 13,932' 65 class 3
Hagerman Peak 13,841' 88 class 2
"Castleabra" 13,803' 105 class 2
"Lightning Pyramid" 13,722'137 class 3
“Electric Pass Peak” 13,635' 177 class 2
Point 13,631 13,631' 180 class 3
Clark Peak13,580' 200 class 3
Point 13,550 13,550' 220 class 2
White Rock Mountain  13,540' 224 class 2
Point 13,53713,537' 230 class 2
Treasure Mountain 13,528' 235 class 2
Star Peak 13,521'242 class 2
Keefe Peak 13,516' 245 class 2
Hunter Peak 13,497' 257 class 2
Treasury Mountain13,462' 278class 2
Sleeping Sexton 13,460' 283 class 3
Taylor Peak 13,435'294 class 2
“Siberia Peak” 13,420' 306 class 3
Hilliard Peak 13,409' 313 class 2
White Benchmark 13,401'320 class 2
Precarious Peak 13,380' 332 class 3
“Triangle Peak" 13,380' 335 class 2
Italian Mountain13,378' 337 class 2
Buckskin Benchmark 13,370' 343 class 2
Pearl Mountain 13,362'348 class 2
Malamute Peak13,348' 354 class 2
Point 13,336 13,336' 365 class 2
“Oyster Peak”13,312'383 class 2
Mt. Daly 13,300' 394 class 2
Point 13,260 13,260' 433 class 2
Point 13,24413,244' 444 class 2
Belleview Mountain 13,233' 450 class 2
"Cassi Peak"13,232' 452 class 2
Point 13,216 13,216' 470class 2
Teocalli Mtn 13,208'477 class 1
Point 13,180 13,180' 503 class 2
Point 13,162 13,162'513 class 2
Willoughby Mtn 13,142' 532 class 2
Point 13,140 13,140' 533 class 2
Point 13,062 13,062' 599 class 2
Point 13,060 13,060' 602 class 3
Mount Owen 13,058'603 class 2
Point 13,03913,039' 615 class 3
West Elk Peak 13,035' 617 class 1
Point 13,02013,020'627 class 1
Purple Mountain 12,958' 662 class 2
Mt. Sopris 12,954' 668 class 2
Point 12,942 12,942' 677 class 2
Point 12,940 12,940' 684 class 2
Point 12,934 12,934' 689 class 2
"Trail Rider Peak" 12,931' 695 class 2
Point 12,903 12,903' 712 class 3
Point 12,902 12,902' 714 class 2
“Christiana Peak” 12,878' 733 class 2

RELATED ARTICLES

-The Ranked 14er's
-Centennial Peaks (100 Highest)
-The 200 Highest
-Colorado's Most Prominent Mountains

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Monday, December 26, 2016

The Five Hardest Cruxes of Colorado's 14ers (with videos)

videos and descriptions of the five most difficult climbs on Colorado's 14ers
A countdown of the five most stomach-clenching cruxes of Colorado’s 53 tallest peaks.

Climbing 14ers is the most popular mountaineering pursuit in Colorado’s high country. While more than 2/3rds of these noble peaks can be “climbed” by mere endurance and a pair of hiking boots, a handful of these popular mountains require a bit more technical skill and engagement with risk to reach the top. This list counts down the five most difficult sections (not most dangerous, that might yield a different list altogether) of all the fourteeners by their standard routes.

#5- The Summit Cap (Mt. Wilson)
Some nice exposure and steep scrambling awaits aspiring mountaineers who have reached the top of this San Juan monarch. Luckily, this vertigo-inducing crux is relatively short-lived. There is some loose rock here, however, and some mistimed flailing could prove disastrous. The following video  is a bit shaky but shows a detailed look at those final relatively intense minutes of climbing.


#4- Jumping the Gap (Sunlight Peak)
Much is said about the final move on famous San Juan 14er, Sunlight Peak. There are many that consider it the crux of all Colorado's highest peaks. In fact, Gerry Roach even makes that claim in his book Colorado's Fourteeners. This difficult move is no doubt exposed, and will get all but the most exposure-hardened of mountaineer's attention. But it is short and if you can put aside the dizzying swirl of air all around you, is not as difficult as fear might make it seem.



#3- The Knife Edge (Capitol Peak)
Perhaps the most infamous crux on any Colorado 14er is the Knife Edge of Colorado's Capitol Peak. While some may argue that this is not even the most difficult section of this peak, there is no doubt that the Knife Edge is the mental crux of this stout and infamous mountain. However, wary aspiring ascentionists can take heart with the knowledge that the Knife boasts some of Capitol's most solid rock and that, barring bad weather, as long as you keep your cool and move with deliberation, there is no reason this crux should prove anything other than exhilarating.


#2- The Chimney (North Maroon Peak)
There is no doubt that the Deadly Bells have earned that forboding moniker. As a resident of the Roaring Fork Valley, I can attest to the frequency at which Search and Rescue gets summoned to these beautiful mountains. Unfortunately, these rescue missions all-too-often become recoveries. The hardest section of these two peaks by their standard routes is the "chimney" of North Maroon that is a mildly sustained section of vertical climbing that many consider to be that hardest technical crux of any standard route on any fourteener.



#1- The Hourglass (Little Bear)
For my money the Hourglass on Little Bear Peak in the Sangre De Cristo Range deserves the title for the crux of all 14er cruxes. It is long, sustained, steep and dangerous. It is class 4 if you pick the best possible line, maybe even a little harder if you don't. Add in the immense danger of falling rock and this section is for real. Tread carefully and lightly here as a number of terrible accidents have occurred at this spot.




NOT HARD ENOUGH?


Think these cruxes were too easy? For a real hard man the following 14er cruxes on non-standard routes will put those five to shame.

Pitch 1 of Kit Carson's Prow (5.8R)
The start of this exhilarating and exposed alpine climb is worthy for the more  technically adept Colorado mountaineers out there.

climbers on Longs Peaks Diamond
Pitch 6 of the Casual Route (5.10a)
Sure, if I wanted to go crazy, there are much more difficult lines on the Diamond. After all, Tommy Caldwell established the wall's first 5.14 in 2014. But the Casual Route is the "standard" way to climb the Diamond and thus its crux gets the nod here.

Summit tower of Sunlight Spire (5.10c)
It's a good thing for those of us weenie everyday-Joe mountaineers that 14,000' Sunlight Spire does not have enough prominence to be considered a ranked peak because it's summit cap is a dozy. First freed in 1988 by Jeff Achey and graded 5.10c, this angling splitter crack is a magnificent achievement for any tough-guy (or gal) mountaineer. Really want something to hold over the heads of all those mere mortal 14er "finishers"? Tell them you free-climbed the Sunlight Spire and challenge them to match the deed.

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Friday, May 27, 2016

Five Most Iconic Colorado Mountains

What are the defining peaks of Colorado? With 637 "ranked" peaks higher than 13,000', it is hard to pick just five. What criteria could be used to quantify such a selection? Sheer beauty? Ruggedness? Fame? By any of these definitions on their own you might get a different set of peaks. Certainly Elbert could be cast as one of Colorado's most famous mountains, but without question it is not as photogenic as some of these rugged peaks. Then there are peaks such as Lizard Head, as rough and rugged as they get but so obscure that none but the most interested of fanatics have ever heard of it. And of course, every individual person brings their own biases, their own aesthetic preferences.

So for our selections here in this article, we have attempt to combine these characteristics: beauty, fame, ruggedness, to create a list of five of Colorado's most iconic and defining peaks. No matter if you agree of disagree, it is hard to deny that these are five mountains that Colorado can be proud of.

The classic Maroon Bells image from
Maroon Lake
1. The Maroon Bells (14,156'; rank #24)
In terms of sheer beauty the Maroon Bells are hard to beat. The classic image of the twin peaks framed in the U-shaped valley from Maroon Lake, has become one of the most iconic and defining images from the Colorado high country. Add in that these peaks both top that coveted 14,000' benchmark, and that they have a fearsome reputation as being two of the more formidable and dangerous summits to reach in the state and it seems clear that these mountains deserve their spot here on this list. (Maroon Bells profile page)

2. Crestone Peak (14,294'; rank #7)
Crestone Peak with a dusting of snow
Crestone Peak in the rugged Sangre De Cristo Range is one of Colorado's most beautiful mountains. Rugged, burly, prominent, it towers above its lesser adversaries like a monarch. There can be no doubt that Crestone is one of Colorado's most aesthetic and formidable mountains. It is a peak that Coloradoans can hold against nearly any other peak anywhere in the lower 48. Add in the unique prominence of the Sangres and you get a mountain that at times resembles a misplaced member of a more formiddable range like the Alps or Tetons right here in our backyards. (Crestone Peak's profile page)

3. Mount of the Holy Cross (14,005'; rank #51)
W.H. Jackson's famous 1873 Holy Cross
image
It is not just the namesake feature on Holy Cross's East Face that makes it beauiful and famous. This gem of the Sawatch Range is rugged and impressive from all of its aspects. Coupled with an amazing surrounding wilderness and you can see why it makes this list. The fame of the mountain, which originated with William Henry Jackson's 1873 photograph and Henry Wadsworth Longfellow's subsequent poem, has piqued the imaginations of hikers, religious zealots and mountaineers for well over a century. This is a famous and amazing mountain that deserves to be named among the greats. (read Angels and Demons: The Two Faces of Holy Cross) 

4. Capitol Peak (14,130'; rank #29)
Capitol Peak from the north
Capitol Peak enjoys an oft-touted reputation as Colorado's most fearsome mountain. While many debate on whether this reputation is overstated, there can be no doubt that the mountain has caputred the imaginations of modern mountaineers more than almost any other of Colorado's great peaks. But not only is Capitol a rugged and challenging mountain, it is also stunningly beautiful with its sharp ridges and impressive faces. No matter which direction you approach this mountain from it is a formidable spire. Without question Capitol is one of Colorado's most aesthetic and treacherous mountains. (Capitol Peak's profile page)

5. Longs Peak (14,255'; rank #15)
Longs Peaks North Face with the Diamond
also visible.
Highly visible, intensely rugged, shockingly popular, and classically famous, this list would not have been complete without Longs Peak. As the crown jewel of Rocky Mountain National Park, this mountain has attracted a great deal of attention for many years. It is also one of Colorado's most complicated massifs. Few peaks offer the sheer volume and diversity of routes. The standard route, the Keyhole, is most likely the most popular route on any mountain in the state. Longs Peak also boasts by far the largest number of viable technical mountaineering routes around. From the relatively mild North Face (5.4) to the mixed snow and rock of the dramatic Kiener's Route (5.4, steep snow) to the many world-class alpine multipitch climbs on the 1,000-foot Diamond, this mountain is a rock climber's paradise and one of Colorado's most impressive mountains. (Longs Peak profile page)

Honorable Mentions

Mt. Sneffels. (Debivort at English Wikipedia [CC BY-SA 3.0
(http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0) )
Mount Princeton (14,197'; rank #18)
The massive prominence of Mt. Princeton, especially as viewed from the east in the Buena Vista area, make this mountain one of Colorado's most impressive peaks. It towers with more than 6,000' of prominence over the Arkansas River Valley just a few miles away. In the winter, this stunning peak looks even more dramatic and the effect can be quite breathtaking. (Mt. Princeton tip report)

Mount Sneffels (14,150'; rank #27)
This San Juan gem is one of the most beautiful and rugged peaks in the state. Viewed from the north it boasts a staggering 8,000' of prominence over the plains near Montrose making its rugged profile one of the most sheer and impressive in the Rockies. (Mt. Sneffels profile page)

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Monday, January 20, 2014

The Five Most Prominent Colorado Peaks

Mount Elbert in June
Mount Elbert is Colorado's most prominent peak
with 9,093 feet of topographical prominence
It seems obvious, but one of the most common debates in the mountaineering world is what exactly constitutes a mountain. It may be empirical, and it seems that you know a mountain when you see one, but when it comes to records and ticklists and media credit, there is a need to come up with a strict definition of the word. In Colorado, for example, there are several peaks whose status as either "official" (sometimes called being ranked) or "unofficial" is determined by topographical prominence.

So what is topographical prominence? Simply put it is the height of a given peak above its highest connecting saddle with a higher peak. In other words, if two peaks were connected via a ridgeline and saddle, if the lowest point on the saddle was at 13,800-feet and the lower peak was at 14,200-feet and the higher peak was at 14,400, the lower peak would have a topographical prominence of 400 feet. The prominence of the higher peak would depend on its connecting saddles or ridges with a higher peak.

In Colorado, mountaineering tradition has generally decided that in order to be "official" a peak must have at least 300 feet of topographical prominence. As Gerry Roach states in his famous guidebook Colorado's Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs, "There is nothing sacred about 300 feet. It is just a round number that seems to make sense in Colorado." In other parts of the country or world, different requirements have been adopted by local climbers. But this 300 foot mark in Colorado has drawn an arbitrary line in the sand whose rigid definition is not always accepted.

For example, North Maroon Peak, the closer and more apparent of the two Maroon Bells as seen from Maroon Lake, has only 234 feet of topographical prominence and is not considered "official" but is included in almost every list of 14er aficionados. On the other hand, North Massive, which has very close to 300 feet of prominence, is generally considered a sub-peak of Mount Massive and infrequently climbed by Colorado peak baggers.

So what are Colorado's most topographical peaks? The following is the list of Colorado's five winners:

1. Mount Elbert (summit elev.= 14,433 feet; topographical prominence= 9,093 feet)
No surprise here, you have to go all the way to the Sierra Nevadas in California to reach higher ground than Elbert. As a result Elbert stands above all the others in this category.

2. Pikes Peak (summit elev.= 14,110 feet; topographical prominence= 5,530 feet)
It was once proclaimed that Pikes was the highest peak in the state. And though surveys later showed there were actually 29 peaks whose summits were higher, it is easy why early Colorado climbers saw this massive singular peak and estimated it to be the state's ruling monarch. Pikes sits alone, far away from other 14,000 foot mountains. And from the east especially, it looks like a very large mountain. And it is. Therefore it is not shocking that Pikes is second on this list.

Crestone Peak
Crestone Peak, Colorado's fifth most prominent
mountain
3. Blanca Peak (summit elev.= 14,345 feet; topographical prominence= 5,326 feet)
As the queen of the Sangre De Cristo Range, a range known for rugged and prominent peaks, it is again no surprise to find gigantic Blanca at the number three spot on this list.

4. Culebra Peak (summit elev.= 14,047 feet; topographical prominence= 4,827 feet)
Perhaps the most anomalous peak on the list, frustrating Culebra of the Sangre De Cristo Range lands at number four. Culebra is Colorado's southernmost fourteener and one of the only of the state's highest peaks whose summit is on private property. Though it is legal to climb Culebra, you must pay a hefty entrance fee. As a result of its isolation, even at a paltry 14,047 feet Culebra finds itself in the elite class in terms of prominence.

5. Crestone Peak (summit elev.= 14,294 feet; topographical prominence= 4,554 feet)
As mentioned before, the Sangres are a range known for steep ramparts that leap from the lower valley that surround them. Therefore the fact that three of the five most prominent peaks in the state reside in this range is logical. When any climber looks on Crestone Peak, he doesn't need any number to know that it is a singular and majestic peak. But this anchor for the heart of the Sangre De Cristo Range deserves a spot on this list and on every Colorado climber's ticklist.

Honorable Mention:

6. Uncompahgre Peak (summit elev.= 14,309 feet; topographical prominence= 4,242 feet)
7. Mount Wilson (summit elev.= 14,246 feet; topographical prominence= 4,024 feet)


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Saturday, November 30, 2013

List: The Centennial Peaks (100 Highest)

The 100 tallest "official" peaks in Colorado, sometimes called the "Centennial List". The generally accepted standard for official status by mountaineers in Colorado is that a mountain should have at least 300 feet of topographical prominence (rise from the highest connecting saddle with a higher peak).

Peak NameElevationRankRangeDifficulty easiest route (YDS)
Mount Elbert14,433'1Sawatchclass 1
Mount Massive14,421'2 Sawatch class 2
Mount Harvard14,420'3Sawatchclass 2
Blanca Peak14,345'4Sangre De Cristoclass 2
La Plata Peak14,336'5Sawatchclass 2
Uncompahgre Peak14,309'6San Juanclass 2
Crestone Peak14,294'7Sangre De Cristoclass 3
Mount Lincoln14,286'8Tenmile Rangeclass 2
Grays Peak14,270'9Front Rangeclass 1
Mount Antero14,269'10Sawatchclass 2
Torreys Peak14,267'11Front Rangeclass 2
Castle Peak14,265'12Elk Rangeclass 2+
Quandary Peak14,265'13Tenmile Rangeclass 1
Mount Evans14,264'14Front Rangeclass 1
Longs Peak 14,255'15Front Rangeclass 3
Mount Wilson14,246'16Front Rangeclass 4
Mount Shavano14,229'17Sawatchclass 2
Mount Princeton14,197'18Sawatchclass 2
Mount Belford14,19719Sawatchclass 1
Crestone Needle14,19720Sangre De Cristoclass 3
Mount Yale14,196'21Sawatchclass 2
Mount Bross14,172'22Mosquitoclass 2
Kit Carson Peak14,165'23Sangre De Cristoclass 3
Maroon Peak14,156'24Elk Rangeclass 3
Tabeguache Peak14,155'25Sawatchclass 2
Mount Oxford14,153'26Sawatchclass 2
Mount Sneffels14,150'27San Juanclass 2
Mount Democrat14,148'28Mosquitoclass 2
Capitol Peak14,130'29Elkclass 4
Pikes Peak 14,11030Front Rangeclass 1
Snowmass Mountain14,092'31Elkclass 3
Windom Peak14,087'32San Juanclass 2+
Mount Eolus14,084'33San Juanclass 3
Challenger Point14,081'34Sangre De Cristoclass 2+
Mount Columbia14,073'35Sawatchclass 2
Missouri Mountain14,067'36Sawatchclass 2+
Humboldt Peak14,064'37Sangre De Cristoclass 2
Mount Bierstadt14,060'38Front Rangeclass 2
Sunlight Peak14,059'39San Juanclass 4
Handies Peak 14,048' 40 San Juanclass 1
Culebra Peak14,047'41Sangre De Cristo class 2
Mount Lindsey14,042'42Sangre De Cristoclass 2+
Ellingwood Point14,042'43 Sangre De Cristoclass 2
Little Bear14,037'44Sangre De Cristoclass 4
Mount Sherman14,036'45Tenmile Range class 2
Redcloud Peak14,034' 46San Juanclass 2
Pyramid Peak14,018'47Elk Rangeclass 4
Wilson Peak14,017'48San Juanclass 3
Wetterhorn14,015'49San Juanclass 3
San Luis Peak14,014'50San Juanclass 1
Mount of the Holy Cross14,005'51Elk Rangeclass 2
Huron Peak14,003'52Sawatchclass 1
Sunshine Peak14,001'53San Juan class 2
Grizzly Peak13,988'54Sawatch class 2
Stewart Peak13,983'55San Juan class 1
Columbia Point13,980'56Sangre De Cristo class 2+
Pigeon Peak13,972'57San Juan class 4
Mount Ouray13,971'58Sawatch class 2
Fletcher Mountain13,95159Tenmile Range class 2
Ice Mountain13,95160Sawatchclass 3
Pacific Peak13,950'61Tenmile Range class 2
Cathedral Peak13,94362Elk Range class 3
French Mountain13,940' 63Sawatchclass 2
Mount Hope13,933'64Sawatch class 2
"Thunder Pyramid"13,932'65Elk Rangeclass 3
Mount Adams13,93166Sangre De Cristo class 2+
Gladstone Peak13,913'67San Juan class 3
Mount Meeker13,911'68Front Range class 3
Casco Peak13,908'69Sawatch class 2
Red Mountain13,90870Sangre De Cristoclass 2
Emerald Peak13,904'71Sawatchclass 2
Horseshoe Mountain13,898'72Tenmile Rangeclass 1
"Phoenix Peak"13,895'73San Juan class 1
Vermilion Peak13,894'74San Juanclass 2
Cronin Peak13,870'75Sawatch class 2
Mount Buckskin13,865'76Tenmmile Range class 2
Vestal Peak13,864'77San Juan class 2+
Jones Mountain13,860'78San Juan class 2
North Apostle13,860'79Sawatch class 2
Clinton Peak13,857'80Tenmile Range class 2
Dyer Mountain13,855'81Tenmile Rangeclass 2
Crystal Peak13,85282Tenmile Rangeclass 2
Mount Edwards13,850' 83 Front Range class 1
California Peak13,849'84Sangre De Cristoclass 1
Mount Oklahoma 13,845'85Sawatch class 2
"Atlantic Peak"13,841'86Tenmile Rangeclass 2
Hagerman Peak13,84187Elk Range class 2+
Half Peak13,84188San Juan class 2
Turret Peak13,835'89San Juan class 2+
Point 13,83213,832'90San Juan class 2
Holy Cross Ridge13,831' 91 San Juan class 2
Jupiter Mountain13,830'92 San Juan class 2+
"Huerfano Peak"13,828'93 Sangre De Cristo class 2
Jagged Mountain 13,824'94 San Juan class 5.2
”Lackawanna Peak"13,823'95Sawatch class 2
Mount Silverheels13,822'96Tenmile Range class 1
Rio Grande Pyramid13,821' 97San Juan class 2
Teakettle Mountain13,819'98San Juan class 5.3
Point 13,81113,811'99San Juan class 1
Dallas Peak13,809'100San Juan class 5.3

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Monday, November 25, 2013

Ten Mountains You Probably Haven't Climbed but Should

Mount Silverheels, Tenmile-Mosquito Range, Colorado
Tired of the crowds on overrun 14ers? Looking for less-known, less-traveled Colorado peaks just as, if not more, fun to climb than any of the 53 highest? This is a list of Colorado mountains that don't see nearly the number of signatures on their summit logs. All are worthy of earning a spot on your to-climb list.

"McReynolds Peak" (12,450 feet; class 5.9) (rank: #1034)
McReynolds Peak is a ranked 12er and, according to several seasoned Colorado mountaineers, one of the hardest peaks in the state above 12,000 feet. The good news is that all of the difficulties are crowded in one 15-foot boulder problem at the top. The bad news is that the mountain is flanked by private property and access is currently a sensitive issue.

Mount Silverheels (13,822 feet; class 1) (rank: #92)
Mount Silverheels is a popular and excellent easy-to-climb mountain in the Tenmile-Mosquito Range and one that should be on the list of any true aficionado of Colorado mountaineering. In good conditions, you can bring your whole family on the standard South Ridge route, which has a good trail all the way to an excellent and rewarding summit. A classic high-alpine hike that is less threatening than some.

McGregor Mountain (10,486 feet; class 5.2) (rank: #2043)
McGregor Mountain from Beaver Meadows
McGregor Mountain is a somewhat obscure peak with a very prominent position: towering over the Beaver Meadows entrance station to Rocky Mountain National Park. It stands like a shield over the busy highway below, not high enough to draw as much attention as other peaks in the park but far more accessible than most. McGregor offers several multipitch lines with great protection, excellent rock and plenty of room for variations. The best part? Most of the routes are easy to moderate, mostly rating in from 5.4 to 5.9, and all of the climbs are at least 3 long pitches.

Mount Powell (13,580 feet; class 2-3) (rank: #198)
Mount Powell is the highest peak in the elusive Gore Range, perhaps the most rugged and least traveled of Colorado's high mountain ranges. While Mount Powell is not a difficult peak in terms of technical terrain, it does require a long approach and has a more rugged and remote feel than more pedestrian class 2 routes in the state. Any journey into this amazing range is bound to bring adventure, and Powell is a worthy trek for those wondering what some of the more popular ranges were like a few decades ago. Adding to the appeal is Mount Powell's rank of 198 which barely sneaks it onto the "Bicentennial" list, or the 200 highest peaks of the state. The Bicentennial list is coveted and elusive milestone in Colorado mountaineering.

Mount Oso (13,684 feet; class 2) (rank: #157)
Mount Oso, or bear in Spansh, is a remote and obscure 13er deep in the heart of the San Juan mountains. It is known for its long approaches and hard-to-reach trailheads. Though Oso is on the Bicentennial list, for many of the above reasons it remains on the outside of most Colorado mountaineer's ticklists. But a journey to Oso takes you to a beautiful and less-trodden corner of arguably Colorado's most impressive range, and this bear of  mountain is worthy of being bumped to the top of you to-do list.

Sunlight Spire (13,995 feet; class 5.10d) (unranked)
Sunlight Spire is one of Colorado's most elusive summits. Based on the 1929 elevation datum, Sunlight Spire is just shy of the magical 14,000-foot mark. But in the revised 1988 datum, generally thought to be more accurate, it has been upgraded to exactly 14,000. However, with only 215 feet of topographical prominence Sunlight Spire is not an "official" peak and therefore not on most climbers' radars. This comes as a sigh of relief to most Colorado mountaineers who look at this peak's splitter-crack summit pitch in despair. It is easily one of the hardest summits to reach in the entire state. Having said this, however, bear in mind that both Thunderbolt Peak, with 223 feet of topographical prominence, and North Maroon Peak, with 234 feet, are both not ranked but are generally considered part of the standard 14er list of California and Colorado respectively.

Peak L ("Necklace Peak") (13,213 feet; class 4) (rank: #473)
Peak L is one of the true gems of the Gore Range, a range known for being tough and elusive. I debated heavily between including Peak Q and Peak L from this portion of the Gores, but settled ultimately on so-called "Necklace Peak" (Peak L) largely due to its overall rugged beauty and the foreboding nature of its easiest route. Reclusive Peak L boasts a knife edge that gives Capitol's more-famous knife a run for its money and an overall sense of adventure that easily makes it one of the least-touched summits of any major peak in the state.

Ice Mountain (13,951 feet; class 3) (rank: #59)
Ice Mountain and the Three Apostles
Ice Mountain from the summit of Mount Huron
Ice Mountain is one of the most interesting peaks in the Sawatch Range from a mountaineering perspective, and one of the most beautiful. In a range known for gentle giants like Mt. Elbert, Mt. Massive and Mt. Harvard whose challenge lies in simple, hamstring-powered vertical gain rather than technical mountaineering, Ice Mountain delivers a smorgasbord of excellent features, including loose rock, exposed scrambling and infamous snow couloirs.

Pigeon Peak (13, 972 feet; class 4) (rank: #57)
There are many worthy mountains in the San Juan range worthy of this list, but I was force to pick only a few. Pigeon Peak is located in one of the cores of Colorado mountaineering: the 10-square mile region of the Weminuche Wilderness Area south of Silverton and east of the Animas River. Rugged and dangerous, Pigeon is a next-door neighbor to the popular 14ers of the Chicago Basin. In fact, Pigeon is closer to and more visible from Highway 550 than any of those peaks. However, Pigeon's rough approaches are less-developed and time consuming, adding to this mountain's foreboding nature. Pigeon is an exposed and craggy 13er. It is one of the highest and most difficult of the so-called "Centennial" 13ers.

Jagged Mountain (13,824 feet; class 5.2) (rank: #94)
People could accuse me of tooting Jagged's horn a little too often, but I just can't say enough about this phenomenal San Juan 13er. With a burly, probably multi-day approach, and an exposed and technical standard route, this is a beautiful mountain that Colorado can be proud of.
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