A Grand Adventure: The Four Pass Loop

Maroon Lake at the beginning

The world-famous Maroon Bells were reflected perfectly on the placid surface of Maroon Lake. Every detail rendered in full high-definition, though upside down, in front of us: the twin summit, the rusted-red color, the U-shaped glacial valley frame. Even the cotton-ball clouds high overhead were perfectly visible on the still waters of the lake. We shrugged on our packs, grunting as the weight of seven days worth of clothes, food and gear settled onto our shoulders. Yanking the straps tight, I took one last look at my car. If all went well it would be over a week before we saw it again.

“Woo-hoo!” my fiancée Ella agreed. We paused to take a photo of the classic Maroon Lake vantage, without a doubt one of the most photographed spots in the state. After a few final adjustments to our backpacks and a sip of water, we started up the trail.

The Four Pass Loop is an excellent backcountry route that courses 25 miles through the heart of the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness Area. Despite the relatively modest length, the Four Pass Loop is a treasure trove of backcountry wonders. As implied by the name, the route crosses over four passes, all between 12,400 and 12,500 feet in elevation.

Going clockwise, we started up the Maroon Creek basin, camping the first night at the base of Maroon Peak not far below treeline. After sitting out a short rain shower in our tent, we spent the evening swinging in our backpacker’s hammocks, watching a marmot scamper though the talus by the creek’s edge. A pair of dippers—one of my favorite Colorado birds—jockeyed for the best rock to use as a diving board for their dinner search. Lazy clouds swirled around the peaks above us and half a dozen mountain goats could be seen working slowly down the slopes of the mountain to the valley floor. As evening faded into night, the glacial-carved valley was cast in colorful shafts of light.

The next day entailed one of the most difficult sections of the journey: Maroon and Frigid Air Passes. It was nearly noon by the time we reached the boulder-strewn saddle at the summit of Maroon Pass, which was busy with hikers, backpackers and even a bachelorette party traversing from Aspen to Crested Butte. We eyed the swelling clouds, gauging the chances of a thunder shower. Almost a thousand feet above treeline, this was no place to be should the weather turn.

Two hours and 2.5 miles later we had descended down the other side of Maroon Pass and re-climbed to the top of Frigid Air Pass. The Fravert Basin, one of the quietest and most remote corners of the 4-Pass Loop, spread out below us in a sea of blue columbines and other multi-colored flowers. The backside of the Maroon Bells, a sight reserved only for those who venture this deep in the backcountry, towered above. That night we camped just upstream of a two hundred foot waterfall.

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For the experienced backpacker, the 4-Pass Loop is a relatively short but magnificent adventure that can be undertaken comfortably in 3 or 4 days. Trail runners and ultra marathoners regularly run this route in an afternoon while training for the Leadville or Hard Rock 100. Other than the usual backpacking accoutrements, the route requires no special equipment. The trail is generally easy to follow. At most intersections, informative signs keep you from drifting astray. A map and basic orienteering skills should see you confidently around the loop and safely back to your car.

Though in normal seasons the Four Pass Loop requires no particular technical expertise, there are several special considerations to bear in mind when undertaking this grand adventure. There are several stream crossings that can be treacherous in the spring and early summer. Some people bring special shoes just for the task, others prefer to go barefoot. On this topic, the Forest Service states on their website that “sandals or boat shoes are strongly recommended. Wading barefoot can be extremely dangerous. Be sure to unbuckle your pack when navigating any stream crossing.” It is also important to remember that strong thunderstorms are common in the afternoon at these high altitudes, and to avoid the danger of lightning strikes you should do the bulk of your hiking before noon and avoid the high passes above treeline if the weather is building. It is also required that dogs are leashed at all times in the wilderness area, that group size is limited no more than 10 people and 15 animals, and that human waste is buried at least six inches deep and 100 feet away from lakes and streams.

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Snowmass Peak and Snowmass Lake

After navigating through a long, tricky section of downed lumber (which may or may not have been cleared since our trip) we made a long ascent of Trail Rider Pass before descending to breathtaking Snowmass Lake. The jagged ramparts of Snowmass Peak loomed to the west and the lake’s calm surface was broken occasionally by leaping trout. We reached the climax of our adventure the following day with an exciting and exhausting class 3 ascent of 14,092 foot Snowmass Mountain.

Exhausted, battered, and footsore, we climbed up and over Buckskin Pass on day 8, the last of the four passes and the last major obstacle of the journey. One of the beautiful things about the Four Pass Loop is the sheer number of options available for customization. We augmented the route with side trips to Geneva Lake and the summit of Snowmass Mountain. By the time we reached the top of Buckskin Pass, we had climbed nearly 14,500 vertical feet, most of which with over fifty pounds of gear lashed mercilessly to our backs. Throbbing red slashed had been worn into my shoulders, and my heels and knees ached deeply.

When we reached our car at last, we were overcome by a conflicting torrent of sensations. The smell of gasoline and the sound of revolving gears had become alien, almost supernatural. It was a Saturday in peak season, and the popular lake was crowded with people. After so much solitude the sudden noise and confusion was overwhelming. We paused to look back on the Maroon Bells with reverence, knowing that we had circled around them and seen them from all angles. We had discovered a new respect for these amazing mountains.

(Note: this article first appeared in print in Vol. 8 Issue 3 of Our Backyard)

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PEAK OF THE WEEK: Quandary Peak

INTRO

Quandary Peak from Highway 9

Quandary Peak has a reputation as one of Colorado's easiest and most accessible 14ers. It is a relatively short and straightforward ascent, which makes it popular as a first fourteener or as a winter ascent. Its location just a few miles away from Breckenridge off I-70 also increase the amount of traffic this mountain sees. Despite Quandary's reputation as an accessible and simple mountaineering destination, it also offers some hidden challenges for alpinists who desire more than just a easy class 1 trail hike. Several routes on the mountains north and west sides are far more engaging than the pedestrian standard route up the East Slopes (Quandary Peak Trail). The West Ridge offers a class 3 scramble (though on dangerously loose rock), the Cristo Couloir is a short and engaging snow climb on the peak's south slopes, and the Inwood Arete provides a technical rock climb on Quandary's rugged north face. From casual hikers to winter ascentionisits to rockaneers, Quandary has a little something for everyone.

DIRECTIONS

Near 14,000' on Quandary's East Slopes

From downtown Breckenridge take Highway 9 south towards Hoosier Pass. After 8 miles, locate a small dirt road (CR 850) about two miles short of Hoosier Pass's summit. Very quickly you will find McCullough Gulch Road (CR 851) on the right. Take this road. The Quandary Peak trailhead is just a short distance up this road on the right. To reach the snow couloirs on the peak's north side and the West Ridge route, forgo the turn onto McCullough Gulch and continue 2 miles along CR 850 to the Blue Lake trailhead at the base of a dam. To reach the South Face and Inwood Arete, continue on CR 851 for a couple of miles until you reach a locked gate.

ROUTES
East Slopes (standard)
The standard East Slopes route on Quandary Peak is one of the easiest and most popular routes on a Colorado 14er. A good trail takes you all the way to the summit. From the trailhead, follow the well-defined trail as it winds through the forest for a few miles to treeline at 11,500'. Downed lumber can sometimes impede your progress in this section but shouldn't be too much of an issue. From treeline continue up the trail along a rounded ridgeline to a flat section at 13,100'. From here the angle steepens. Switchback up the final 1,000' to Quandary's excellent summit.

Cristo Couloir
This snow couloir is short and straightforward. From the Blue Lake trailhead, locate the couloir. It is the most apparent and leftmost of three climbable couloirs on Quandary's South Face. The couloir is short, just barely over a mile, but ascends 2,500', so be ready for some steep climbing. Avalanches are a strong possibility, so carefully consider the snow conditions before beginning. This route is an unpleasant scree mess when the snow has melted out.

Inwood Arete

The final push to the summit of Quandary

This technical alpine route is an interesting way to make more of a challenge out of a mountain that has a reputation for being easy. From the trailhead hike along a climber's trail to a lake near 12,000'. The arete begins here. You can do a direct start at 5.6-5.7 or head east to an easier 5.4 start. Climb mostly 5.easy climbing past some towers (do not climb the towers) until you are deposited on easier terrain (still class 3 and 4) above somewhere around 13,500'. Expect runnouts, loose rock, and some tricky routefinding on this route.

TRIP REPORTS
Quandary Peak: Late Spring in the Colorado Mountains
An account of a successful ascent of the East Slopes route of Quandary in June 2010. With heavy snow still on the trail, the route was considerably more difficult than when it is dry in summer.

LINKS
Inwood Arete on Summitpost.org
Inwood Arete on mountainproject.com

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PEAK OF THE WEEK: Castle Peak (14,265' / 4348 m)

INTRODUCTION

Castle Peak and the Montezuma Basin

At 14,265' (4348 m) Castle Peak is the tallest mountain in Colorado's prestigious Elk Range and is the 12th highest mountain in Colorado. It is also the easiest 14er in the Elk Range to climb and a rough 4WD road stretches all the way to 12,700'. Fans of the abbreviated 14er experience who have a rugged off-road vehicle can shorten this mountain to a relatively short hike with only 1,500' of elevation gain. Using this method, Castle Peak is one of the easiest big mountains in Colorado to climb in terms of overall effort. However, Castle Peak is not immune to the Elk Range's infamous terrible rock quality, and the route itself does have some exposed and loose class "2+" sections. It is important to emphasize that it is not a walk-up in the same sense as the choss lumps of the nearby Sawatch Range. There is a  trail for most of the climb, but there is usually a permanent snow field to cross as well as several rocky sections that will require the use of your hands and careful attention to footwork.

While overshadowed by its much more famous and impressive Elk Range siblings (the Maroon Bells, Capitol Peak, Snowmass Mountain) Castle still reigns as a sort of redheaded stepchild who happens to be the oldest and biggest. The views from the summit are good and the basin between Castle and Conundrum is well worth exploring. There are several excellent couloirs on both peaks that allow for easy to moderate snow ascents as well as high quality back country skiing descents. Both Conundrum and Castle Couloirs have become more popular in recent years for this purpose.

GETTING THERE

Hiking along the approach road around 12,000'

Castle Peak is reached from Highway 82 just north of Aspen. From a large roundabout, take the Castle Creek Road turn towards the Aspen Music School, Aspen Hospital and Ashcroft. Follow this winding road along beautiful Castle Creek past the music school campus and some well to do homes. After 11 miles you will reach Ashcroft, a mini-hamlet with an excellent restaurant (The Pine Creek Cookhouse) and some other development. Continue for another two miles to a turnoff at a dirt road (FR 102) before a bridge over the creek. This is your turn. Follow the deterioration dirt road as it parallels the creek. Many passenger cars will park after only about a half mile. There is some free camping available in here as well. This is at around 9,800' elevation. If you decide to continue to the 4WD trailhead, continue along the road as it makes a tough creek crossing that will deter most passenger cars and station wagons (and all vehicles at high water). About two miles further is a common parking spot near the turnoff for Pearl Pass at 11,160'. Only the most rugged vehicles will want to continue past here. Don't go to Pearl Pass (a left turn) but continue along the road for another 2.4 miles to the highest trailhead at 12,800'. This makes your day very short and makes Castle Peak one of the fourteeners you can climb with the least amount of elevation gain.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
As previously mentioned, although Castle is technically the easiest 14er in the Elk Range, it is still home to the same notoriously rotten rock that has made the Maroon Bells, Pyramid Peak, and Capitol so infamous. This rock has cost a large number of people their lives throughout the Elk Range. Although Castle is not as exposed or difficult as these other peaks, it is still vitally important to tread very carefully on this loose mountain.

ROUTES

Northeast Ridge (Standard Route)
The Northeast Ridge route on Castle Peak became the standard summer route after a solid trail was constructed through the loose talus on this ridge. From the Castle Creek (standard, see above) trailhead, follow the road to the highest parking lot at 12,800'. Hike south from the parking lot towards Montezuma Basin between Castle (visible ahead) and Conundrum (to the southwest). There is usually a snowfield just past here to ascend. The snow is not particularly steep, but depending on conditions a ice axe might come in handy. After the snowfield follow the distinct trail through the talus as it enters the basin. Soon it will veer left and start to wind up the slope to where it reaches the ridge proper. From here the route gets a bit rougher and more exposed, though with careful routefinding should never exceed class 2. The last bands of rock are a bit steep but not too technical. Enjoy the rounded summit!

blue=Northeast Ridge; green=Castle Couloir; red=Northwest Ridge

Northwest Ridge
Before the construction of the good trail the winds through the talus on the Northeast Ridge route, this used to be the standard way to reach Castle's summit. Today it has fallen out of favor, largely due to the moderate snow climb to reach the saddle between Castle and Conundrum. When the snow melts at the top of this climb a steep, horribly slippery slope caps this route, presenting an even less attractive option. In the winter or spring, however, is snow is abound on both routes, this is probably the easiest and fastest way to reach the summit of Castle Peak. Follow the Northeast Ridge route past the 4WD trailhead and past the first snowfield into Montezuma Basin between the two mountains. Skirt a sinkhole/lake at the base of Conundum Couloir that formed a few years back (some unstable-looking geography through here). Climb the snowfield to the saddle between Castle and Conundrum at 13,800'. This is easiest when there is snow all the way to the saddle, for when the top section melts off (as in the photo above) the last hundred feet or so is on steep, dangerous ball bearings. From the saddle for the blunt ridge to Castle's summit. The terrain shouldn't exceed class 2.

Castle Couloir
A high quality snow climb on Castle Peak when the conditions are right. Follow the Northwest Ridge route into the basing between the two peaks. As you near Castle's North Face, locate the obvious couloir on its east (left) side. This couloir is only in good condition if it has snow for its full length. Climb this couloir for nearly 600 feet where you join the Northeast ridge at about 14,100' for the last pitch to the summit.

West Ridge

The West Ridge on the right skyline

This wilderness excursion offers a unique and exciting way to reach Castle's summit. This would be a good way for the mountaineer that is less concerned about ticking as many 14ers as quickly as possible but really getting the most enriching experience as possible from their mountaineering adventure. This route takes you to the Conundrum Hot Springs, one of the many wonders of the Elk Range. This route is almost certainly done as a backpack as it is 21 miles in length and gains nearly 7,000' of elevation. Most parties will camp at the Hot Springs and attempt the route the following day. While this is a wilderness trek into one of Colorado's most amazing and special basins, don't expect solitude. The Conundrum Hot Springs are notorious for crowds. Avoid holiday weekends and perhaps peak season if don't want to fight for campsites.

From the Conundrum trailhead (see this link for directions to this famous trailhead), hike for 8 miles along the well-defined trail to the Conundrum Hot Springs. This wonderful location is home to two nice hot spring pools at 11,200'. It is hard to beat the hot water at this high altitude. There is also good, designated campsites around the springs. This makes for a dreamy basecamp for your ascent of the West Ridge. Just past the springs, hike along a talus field into a bowl. Continue up along loose rock to a saddle at 13,600 west of 13,803' "Castleabra" (Colorado's 105th tallest peak). Climb up and over "Castleabra" to a 13,600' saddle at the top of "Cunning Couloir" (a reticent and climbable couloir that is also accessed from the Conundrum Trailhead). From here route gets a bit more difficult. Scramble up some class 3 to the summit of unranked Point 13,820. Descend yet again to another saddle at around 13,550' and scramble the last ridge to Castle's summit. Remember, if you are going to descend this route you have to return over Point 13,820 and "Castleabra".


TRIP REPORTS

(none available at this time)

EXTERNAL LINKS

Castle Peak on Summitpost.org
Castle Peak on 14ers.com

PEAK OF THE WEEK: Mount of the Holy Cross

MOUNT OF THE HOLY CROSS (14,005' or 4269m)

INTRODUCTION

In many ways, Mount of the Holy Cross is probably Colorado's most famous mountain. It is also one of Colorado's only mountains, joining possibly Pikes Peak, that is distinctly more famous for reasons other than mountaineering. It is the image of the cross, caused by a deeply inset couloir intersected at three-quarters height by a ledge that has made this mountain famous. The image of the snowy cross is a postcard image that defines Colorado. Besides this aesthetic feature, Mount of the Holy Cross is simply an amazing mountain.  

For full disclosure, I should divulge that Holy Cross is quite possibly my favorite Colorado 14er. It is a gem in the Sawatch Range, hidden from major highways, rugged, wild. I imagine that 100 years ago this was a very remote place. Different than other Sawatch mountains, it is festooned with massive walls of perfect granite. The basins on the mountains north and west sides are so rich with great stone, it seems a tragic accident that Holy Cross was not gifted with a good rock route. Oh well, the Standard Route is as fun as any class 2 mountain I have climbed in Colorado and the Cross Couloir and Angelica both provide high quality snow routes that can satiate the more aggressive mountaineer.

GETTING THERE

Just west of Vail take exit 171 off I-70 towards Tennessee Pass on Highway 24. Continue about 3 miles past the town of Minturn and turn right (west) onto Tiguwon Road (FR 707). This long, winding dirt road cuts through the forest, passing a couple of different trailheads and some camping (as well as huge swaths of complete deforestation that were part of the Forest Service attempts to stifle the Pine Beetle epidemic in 2011) before ending at the Half Moon Trailhead and campground after 8.5 miles. This trailhead is the access portal for all of the major routes on Holy Cross. 

ROUTES

1. Standard Route (North Ridge)

This is the easiest and most expedient route to the top of Holy Cross. From Halfmoon trailhead you climb up and over Half Moon Pass (11,600') and down into East Cross Creek Basin. There is good camping near the creek at around 10,700'. Due to the extra elevation go up and over the pass on both the approach and return, many people choose to do this route in 2 days. Please observe all wilderness ethics and regulations. From the creek follow the well-defined trail up the north ridge, past tree line and to a semi-airy ridge with amazing views of the north face of Holy Cross. While you dont get to see the cross (which is on the east face), you do get to see Angelica and jagged ridges and cliffs of the north face proper. Holy Cross is certainly one of the most dramatic Sawatch mountains.

2. Halo Ridge
This breathtaking tour is longer, more exposed, and considerably more strenuous than the North Ridge. But the scenery is even more rewarding. You will climb three thirteeners in addition to Holy Cross, two of which are ranked and one which is #91 on Colorado's 100 Highest list. From the trailhead take the Fall Creek Trail for two and a half miles to the Notch Mountain Trail at 11,100'. Switchback for 3 miles up the Notch Mountain trail to the Notch Mountain shelter at 13,080'. You can stay at this shelter. Call the Forest Service Minturn office for info: 970-827-5715. From here you must traverse the Halo Ridge, a strenuous exposed traverse. It is 2.1 miles from here to the summit of Holy Cross. Traverse over ranked Point 13,248 (#441), unranked Point 13,373 and ranked Point 13,831, also known as Holy Cross Ridge, Colorado's 91st highest summit. Descend to the 13,500' saddle then climb the final half mile to Holy Cross's summit just barely over 14,000'. You can return over Halo Ridge or some people choose to return via the standard North Ridge. There are advantages to either option. If you return over Halo Ridge you will not have as much total vertical gain, even though you have to re-summit all three 13ers along the ridge. If you descend the North Ridge the journey is shorter and you are exposed above 13,000 feet for a shorter amount of time. It is NOT RECOMMENDED to attempt to bypass any summit along Halo Ridge in an effort to save elevation gain. Many of these summits are cliffed out and people have gotten into trouble trying to do this!

3. Angelica

 Angelica is the couloir on the right side that  has barely any snow left.

This great snow climb is not nearly as famous as the Cross Couloir, but it is still good and often has snow later than the Cross Couloir providing a good alternative. It is not as long as the cross nor as complicated and technical but is similar in terms of steepness. Follow the standard North Ridge route over Half Moon Pass and down into the East Cross Creek basin. Cross the creek and leave the main trail at some campsites near the creek crossing. Pick your way through the forest, possibly doing some boulder hopping, and find a vague climber's trail. It becomes more distinct. Follow it as wind winds through some boulderfields on the west side of the creek for at least a mile until it flattens out at 11,500'. Hike across the bench west of Lake Patricia. Instead of following the draining basin towards the Bowl of Tears, head instead towards the obvious North Face. Climb steepening snow angling toward the west side of the face until you reach a prominent and obvious Y. Take the left branch and climb an excellent inset couloir to a notch at 13,700' where you rejoin the North Ridge route. From here it is a short class 2 jaunt to the summit.

4. Cross Couloir
This route is famous because it climbs Holy Cross's famous feature. For mountaineers it is a coveted snow climb and one of the most classic alpine routes in the Sawatch Range. It is also a coveted ski descent and many expert backcountry skiiers lust for this committing challenge. Start as for Angelica. Follow this route all the way to 11,500' at the bench with Lake Patricia. Instead of turning and taking on Holy Cross's North Face, follow the climber's trail into a boulderfield up the roughening basin until you reach the Bowl of Tears at 12,000'. The approach is over. Angle up the slopes starting left (south) of the couloir aiming right to bypass a cliff system at the bottom of the cross. You enter the couloir at 12,800'. Now for the business. First consider the avalanche potential, knowing that a gnarly cliff you wouldn't want to get swept over sits at the bottom of this committing couloir. Falling, for that matter, as either a skiier or a mountaineer is ill advised on this part of the route. Climb the couloir for over 1,000 feet. There is a possibility of resting on the cross ledge at 3/4 height depending on snow conditions. After a tough climb, the top will be a welcome treat. Either carefully ski down, or descend the North Ridge.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS

Mount of the Holy Cross is in the Holy Cross Wilderness area and special regulations apply. You must register at the trailhead and carry a permit with you that has a list of all the regulations. One of which is that fires are not allowed in the wilderness area. Please respect this rule and read and abide all of the other rules carefully. They are there for the greater good, so breaking these rules is not a strike against the government but a strike against all of us who want to enjoy this place for years to come.

For some reason, Holy Cross has attracted inordinate numbers of accidents, tragedies and near misses over the years. As as result it has earned a reputation even among the non-climbing community. While many if not most 14ers have had tragic accidents involving mountaineers, for some reason people seem to remember the ones that occurred on Holy Cross more than any other. I have even heard the Holy Cross Wilderness dubbed the "Bermuda Triangle" of Colorado's backcountry. Much of this reputation, it seems to me, stems from one particularly disturbing accident that occurred a few years back when a woman separated from her climbing partner at around 13,800' on the Halo route with plans to quickly re-unite but, despite a lengthy search involving hundreds of people, was never seen again. There is no space here on this webpage to get into theories about what exactly happened in this particular instance, that discussion has occurred elsewhere and is not my goal now. It is, however, good to take this terrible tragedy--and others that have occurred on this mountain--and learn the lessons that they might teach. However, I have been back into the region a couple times now, and I have some ideas about why more people have trouble here than in other Colorado wilderness areas. 

The first problem is one of numbers. The fame of Holy Cross draws a fair number of annual visitors, and although crowds have become the norm on almost all 14ers in Colorado, Holy Cross for whatever reason seems to attract an even less experienced and less prepared demographic. Throw these large numbers of ill-prepared mountaineers into an environment with some of the particular objective hazards that I discuss below and the result is what you see today with Holy Cross's reputation.

Another hazard is the treacherous, bouldery, and cliffed-out terrain. The Holy Cross Wilderness, particularly the area immediately surrounding the mountain proper, is rough and uneven. It is filled with large glaciated boulders and cliffs of all sizes. This is a very rugged place. While some of the big cliffs are obvious, there are numerous small cliffs many of which are hidden among thick trees and brush. It would be easy to slip scrambling here and become injured. I could also see how it might be very difficult to find someone who had fallen into a crevice or something like that in between boulders.

The Holy Cross Wilderness is an amazing place, and I don't think anybody should be deterred from venturing into it by grim warnings and dark stories. It is smart for everyone, however (and I would probably say this about any backcountry), to always remember the essentials: map, compass, proper clothing, extra food, rudimentary medical supplies, etc, and to use extra caution and common sense when venturing into a place with proven and serial objective hazards.

Gerry Roach, in his book Colorado Fourteeners 3rd Edition, examines the case of the vanished mountaineer as well as his theory about Holy Cross's unique dangers in depth. It is a useful and informative article for anyone venturing into the area. The book itself is the bible to Colorado's 14ers in my opinion and a great place to start for anyone who is just becoming curious about the great peaks of this state.

STANDARD ROUTE (NORTH RIDGE)

Length: 11 miles (roundtrip)
Total Elevation gain: 5,800'
trail access: Half Moon Trail

The North Ridge of Holy Cross is one of Colorado's best class 2 adventures. It is an amazing and challenging climb that takes you to Colorado's hallowed places. The length and total elevation required for this climb necessitate a two-day outing for many people. This might be advised for anyone whose conditioning might not be up for a one-day approach. That trade off, however, is that you will have to lug a heavy backpack over Half Moon Pass twice. Is it easier? The more environmentally conscience choice is to minimize your impact by climbing Holy Cross in one day. However, this is a place that deserves a slow, contemplative pace. I recommend a backpack of at least two days. Three might be preferable. Take your time and enjoy this place. Please minimize your impact by adhering to No Trace Wilderness ethic.

From Half Moon Trailhead, follow Half Moon Trail for 2 miles to Half Moon Pass at 11,600'. On my last trip, I discovered crossing this pass can be exciting in an afternoon thunderstorm. After summitting Half Moon Pass, descend gradually at first towards East Cross Creek. You will soon get your first views of the North Face of Holy Cross, an impressive sight. Soon the trail starts to descend more steeply and you round a corner and get an amazing view of the mountain and the East Cross Creek Basin, complete with steep granite walls on the basin's north flank, the mountain to the south, and a tallish waterfall in the center. You know now if you didn't before that this is a special place. Descend another 900 feet into the creek basin where some very nice campsites exist near the creek. Stay in one of the numbered campsites to minimize impact. You can be ticketed by rangers for camping elsewhere. Not only is it a legal issue anyway, it is environmental, so please respect this.

The Gore Range in the distance from the North Ridge

Cross East Cross Creek at a makeshift rock bridge and follow the trail as it winds up the northern slopes into the high alpine zone. At around 11,500' you will cross treeline. A bit later you will get your first glimpse of the mountain, much closer and even more imposing now. Follow the trail as the ridge tightens to a prominent notch at 13,700'. you can peer down an inset couloir, which is impressive whether it has snow or not. This is the top of Angelica. From here the trail gets rougher. Pick your way through class 2 to 2+ terrain to an impressive summit.

Do not get lost on the descent! Remember the route. Going too far west or north can pull you into the Cross Creek drainage (not the East Cross Creek drainage where you want to be.) While there are trails there, they will take you very far away from your vehicle. Also don't forget you have to go up and over (1,000') Half Moon Pass on the way out. As aforementioned  this can be exciting if the afternoon storms are rolling in and exhausting anytime after a long climb of Holy Cross.

TRIP REPORTS

Angels and Demons- The Two Faces of Mount of the Holy Cross
An article examining the profound beauty of Holy Cross and its surrounding territory as well as the unique objective dangers it boasts. Also included: a brief look at the mysterious disappearance of Michelle Vanek in 2005 and other accidents related to this area.

Longs, Holy Cross & McGregor Mountain (July 2012)
A week in July and a successful climb of the Left Side of McGregor Peak, right variation (II 5.8 R), the North Face of Longs Peak (II 5.4), and a two backpack and ascent of the standard route of Holy Cross.

Frustration in Paradise (July 2010)
Just because you don't make the summit doesn't always mean you "failed". This is an account of a really amazing trip in which we, unfortunately, did not make the summit.

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Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
For information about how to contact us, visit this link

Area Profile: Main Elk Canyon, Flat Tops Range

Main Elk Canyon is one of the major creek basins that drains the southwestern portion of the Flat Tops Range in central Colorado. While not really mountaineering, this little-known location is a great place to enjoy an alpine environment and even hone your skills. This major canyon is home to some remote alpine terrain, soaring limestone cliffs, and some of the best sport climbing in western Colorado. The creek, accessed from the small, non-descript town of New Castle, Colorado, also has a pair of significant trails that can lead one eventually into the Flat Tops Wilderness Area.

 The Main Elk area is one of western Colorado's most beautiful and least traveled places. It's semi-remote location and out-of-the-way approach have deterred many people. For those, however, that are willing to spend the time to seek out what lies within this amazing place, there are untold secrets just waiting to be discovered. The possibilities for future rock climbing seems almost limitless, and the possibility for adventure is there for those willing to put in the work. While the Pup Tent of Solitude and Main Elk crags offer only mediocre to moderate challenges, for the sport climbing master with a sense of adventure the Fortress of Solitude is one of the best climbing destinations around.

HISTORY

 The Main Elk drainage has mostly escaped the popularity that has engulfed the nearby creeks and trails of Glenwood Canyon, yet from a climbing perspective its history is more significant to the annals of rock history that any area within Glenwood Canyon. It could be said that without the attention gained by the hardwork and difficult redpoints of Tommy Caldwell in 1999 and 2003, the Fortress of Solitude would be just another obscure, if not massive and untapped, crag in the backcountry of Colorado. When Caldwell redpointed Kryptonite at last, it was the country’s first 5.14d, making the moment a benchmark in the history of American sport climbing. Due to subsequent changes in the route topography, perhaps due to natural processes or perhaps due to clandestine chipping by later climbers, Kryptonite is often now considered 5.14c.

 Nearly four years later, Caldwell returned to the Fortress and redpointed a monster project after several months of work. Famously, Caldwell refused to rate the route, claiming only that it was "significantly harder" than Kryptonite, which led to climbing media claiming Luthor as the first 5.15. To this day the route's rating has yet to have confirmation as nobody has been able to repeat Caldwell’s climb. Later rounds of development by climbers such as Dave Pegg, Matt Samet, Bryan Gall, and others have greatly expanded the climbing at the Fortress and the Pup Tent. Other walls nearby including some cliffs on the northeast side of the road are also starting to bee developed, though information about much of these routes is difficult to obtain.

 HIKING

 Two major hiking trails exist within the Main Elk Canyon system; the trail that follows along the creek into the canyon proper and the steeper Hadley Gulch trail that turns off the creek and follows Hadley Gulch up onto the canyon rim and, ultimately, onto the Flat Tops. From the parking area, follow the Hadley Gulch trail for .22 miles until you reach a prominent fork. Here is where the two routes differ:

  Hadley Gulch Trail- This trail takes the right branch at the fork and contours steeply up the hillside and ultimately into the steep, usually dry creekbed. In the spring, however, this creek can hold a substantial amount of water and even be difficult to cross, as was the case for several weeks during the banner year of 2011. A small side trail just after the creek crossing access the climbing and the first route, Gatehouse of Lonliness, is the black buttress right here at this junction. To continue up the Hadley Gulch trail, follow the steep and winding trail as it climbs in the shadow of the Fortress of Solitude (about a mile passed the creek crossing) and into a meadow with another fork in the trail. You can try to follow the creek here but the route quickly becomes overgrown and downed trees are a problem. The main route turns left and climbs up the hill side through the cliffs and topsout at some indistinct dirt roads on the canyon rim. From here you are about 2.75 from the trailhead and have gained over 2,000 feet of elevation. On top of the rim there are a number of options available by following a variety of backcountry roads. This is a barren place that doesn’t see much traffic. Be sure to remember how to find the trail again as it quickly becomes lost in the thick brush.

Cliffs along Hadley Gulch trail

Main Elk Creek/Canyon

This beautiful hike is much quieter than neighbors such as Grizzly Creek or No Name. This beautiful trail follows the creek along the bottom of a narrow, quaint canyon for two miles to a prominent fork in the canyon. There is possible camping in this area. The trail peters out here and to continue farther you will need good backcountry skills. Ultimately, if you were to follow this canyon to its source, you will emerge deep in the Flat Tops above the Crater Lake area.

Main Elk Canyon during runoff, any farther means gettin' wet....

CLIMBING

While the climbing in Main Elk Canyon will never be as popular and famous as nearby Rifle Mountain Park, there is some climbing in the area that is still world class. The rock that has been established is split into three main crags:

Fortress of Solitude

The Fortress is proud, famous, and burly. Some of the hardest climbs in North America if not the world sit up there waiting, yet it is rare to see more than a few people up here all season! There are several reasons for that, I suspect. One is that given the grueling approach, it is difficult to motivate for this out-of-the-way crag with the roadside walls at Rifle Mountain Park nearby. Still, for those undaunted by things like a steep hike or semi-remote location, it is hard to beat the Fortress in terms of challenge and adventure, especially for sport climbing! Some of the best climbs at the Fortress (left to right)

Route	Type	Pitches	Difficulty	Location/Description
Tommy’s 5.11	Sport	1	5.11d	The leftmost route at the Fortress. An early Tommy Caldwell creation.
The Pummeling	Sport	1	5.13b R	This 100 foot pitch is famous for it’s difficulty and runout after the third bolt.
Glamorama	Sport	1	5.12d	Not as hard as it looks. Climb through a section of bad rock to some of the best and most interesting holds.
The Daily Planet	Sport	1	5.13d	Work through a mediocre first half to an amazing 60 feet of .13d on great rock.
Kryptonite	Sport	1	5.14d	It takes a superhero to send this! A mega-famous route that has only been climbed a few times.
Flex Luthor	Sport	1	5.15a	Touted as North America’s fist 5.15. Still unrepeated.
Metropolis	Sport	1	5.12c	A 130 foot pitch that climbs some brilliant, sustained rock.
Orange Mechanique	Sport	1	5.13a	Left side of the eastern portion of the Fortress. Crimp. 60 ft.
Boy Wonder	Sport	1	5.12d	A short climb for the Fortress but with a variety of holds.

The Fortress of Solitude

Pup Tent of Solitude

The Pup Tent is overshadowed by it’s towering neighbor, but it is still a worthy crag, particularly if you are a novice/intermediate climber. There are just over 50 established lines, most of which are bolted with a handful of short trad lines thrown in for the mix. The routes are usually short, and the rock in general is quite good. Some of the better routes at the Pup Tent (right to left, as encountered from trail):

Route	Type	Pitches	Difficulty	Location/Description
Gatehouse of Lonliness	Sport	1	5.8	This short climb is the first route encountered at the Tent and one of the easiest. Could use a cleaning.
Total Eclipse	Sport	1	5.12a	Steep, bouldery and long for the tent. 7 bolts.
Subprime	Sport	1	5.11a	Difficult start on a tan-colored wall.
Stimulus Package	Sport	1	5.11d	An eight-bolt arête.
Rex Luthor	Sport	1	5.11c	Short, challenging. Start on a flake and over a bulge.
Craptonite	Sport	1	5.12a	one of the best routes at the Tent
Easiest	Sport	1	5.7	A short climb, easiest at Tent. Can access anchors to next to climbs from top.
Easy	Sport	1	5.10a	Climb easy terrain to an insecure flake and reachy, overhanging topout.
Easier	Sport	1	5.9	A tricky climb with some fun movement at the crux topout
Deputy Dawg Lives to Fight Another Day	Sport	1	5.8	Possibly the best moderate at the Tent
Country Style Pork Rib	Sport	1	5.9	A challenging 5.9 with a counter-intuitive crux
First Blood	Sport	1	5.9+	On the right side of the next teir down from the previous climbs
Magical Handhold	Sport	1	5.10c	A fun climb with some sneaky beta
Subtle Knife	Sport	1	5.10a	An interesting arete feature with good, dark stone. Anchor chains were stolen from this climb and as of now still haven't been replaced
Puppy Love	Sport	1	5.11c	One of the Tent’s best! Long and challenging.
Nose Picking Good	Sport	1	5.9	A cool, black-colored arete. Some choss on a ledge midway and possible rope snag near top.
Nicklepup	Sport	1	5.10a	A fun long 5.10a with a easy diheadral to a great roof problem on big holds
Girls With Guns	Sport	1	5.10d	A long climb, one of the Tent’s best. Bouldery start to beautiful headwall
Ewok Stew	Sport	1	5.9	An interesting climb up awesome, dark rock.
Disturbed Susan	Sport	1	5.10b	One of the climbs farthest to the left at the Pup Tent sector. Some funky rock to a cool roof problem

Girls With Guns (5.10d). One of the Pup Tent's most classic climbs

Main Elk Crag

A slightly more obscure wall, this set of cliffs within the canyon proper above Main Elk Creek see even less traffic than the Pup Tent. The routes here are more advanced than the Tent as well, and the rock quality has moments of greatness and moments of ugliness. A couple of chossy trad routes are thrown in for fun.

 

Route	Type	Pitches	Difficulty	Location/Description
Giblet Gravy	Sport	1	5.10b	A good warm-up for the area
Patchouli	Sport	1	5.11c	A crack line over a bulge
Best in Show	Sport	1	5.12d	Often considered the best route at the Main Elk Crag
Black Ball Retriever	Sport	1	5.12c	A hard route with great rock. Identified by black hangers.
Jewel Rosena	Sport	1	5.12a	Just right of a cave/roof.
Both Ends Burning	Sport	1	5.13a	The first route to te right of where the approach trail meets the cliff
Infinite Jest	Sport	1	5.12d	A 80 foot pitch that crosses varying rock that improves as you climb
Mint Jelly	Trad	1	5.8+	A good trad route, with some loose rock and choss to tiptoe around. Good protection.

GETTING THERE

Main Elk Canyon is accessed from the town of New Castle (exit 105) 7 miles west of Glenwood Springs, Colorado. At the exit, turn north and cross a bridge over some railroad tracks to a four-way blinking red light. Turn left. Go 1.2 through downtown New Castle and turn right onto N. 7th Street. If you cross the creek you have gone just a little too far. Follow this road for .7 miles through a neighborhood and continue straight at the junction with Castle Valley Boulevard. After another 3.1 miles turn right onto CR 243 (Main Elk Road) which is paved. Follow this road for 6 miles until it crosses the creek and reaches a trailhead and a small parking area.

SEASON

Main Elk offers various sorts of adventures in all seasons. While the main canyon gets snowy and cold in the winter, those adept with snow travel may find the quiet trails are at their best in these sorts of conditions. The Pup Tent is a very sunny crag that is often climbable even in the dead of winter. The summertime, however, can be too hot for the south-facing cliffs, especially at the Tent, but hiking within the shady canyon is quite pleasant in the hot season. In the spring, Main Elk Creek can be very swift and the narrowest point in the canyon can be flooded, making for difficult passage.

Main Elk in winter

CAMPING

Camping is illegal at the trailhead for the Main Elk area. My recommendation would be to either stay at the nearby Elk Creek Campground (just up nearby East Elk Creek) for a small fee, or backpack a short ways into Main Elk Canyon (being sure to adhere to No Trace ethic, of course). 

 EXTERNAL LINKS 

Rifle Mountain Park and Western Colorado Climbs is an excellent guidebook not only to the world-famous crags of Rifle and the adventurous rock here in Main Elk but to the entire Roaring Fork Valley and lower Valley area. It is a must for anyone who wants to visit the area to climb. Purchase the book at local climbing shops in the area such as Summit Canyon Mountaineering or online at Wolverine Publishing’s website. 

 Mountainproject.com has a database with user-created beta on climbs at the Fortress of Solitude and the Pup Tent of Solitude. 

Splitterchoss.com has more recent information about newer bolted routes at the Pup Tent.

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