Ten Class 5 Colorado Mountaineering Classics

Longs Peak, Mount Meeker, & the Diamond. Shows
Pervertical, Kiener's and The Flying Buttress

There is nothing more exciting than a technical alpine route. The adventure, the scenery, the danger all combine to make for the ultimate challenge for a mountaineer. High, hard and exposed, these mountaineering classics demand such a level of expertise that they shine above all others in the minds of the climbers and alpinists who live in and visit this state. The following list would be an ambitious ticklist of some of the most famous, and most fun technical alpine climbs on a high peak in Colorado.

It is difficult to go about creating a list like this, as so many opinions exist about each and every one of these routes. I started by first establishing several criteria to reduce the number of worthy candidates to a manageable category. For example, I decided that to be included as a "mountaineering classic" the climb must be a summit route on a mountain higher than 12,000 feet. This eliminated many of Colorado's most classic lines such as The Naked Edge (6 pitches, 5.11b) in Eldorado Canyon, Otto's Route (4 pitches, 5.9) on Independence Monument outside Grand Junction, as well as anything in The Black Canyon or at Lumpy Ridge, etc. All of these climbs were worthy of being listed as Colorado Classics, but were they mountaineering? I considered expanding my criteria to include. But really, they didn't quite fit what I was looking for. I wanted to look at alpine routes, the kind that require a grueling approach and reach the top of a high peak. There seemed to be an intellectual line that defined what "mountaineering" meant, and the need for a strict definition waned.

Sunlight Spire (13,995') (5.10c)
With the 1988 datum bumping up the elevations on most mountains in Colorado, Sunlight Spire now just barely touches the 14,000' mark. However, most mountaineers still refer to the classic 1927 datum, so the Spire is usually still listed at 13,995'. Though it does not have 300 feet of topographical prominence, it holds the title as the hardest 14,000 foot summit in Colorado (if you adhere to the 1988 datum), perhaps in the entire United States. Sunlight Spire is a coveted and elusive summit for the true Colorado mountaineering master.

Vestal Peak and Wham Ridge

Vestal Peak (13,864')-Wham Ridge (Center Shift) (5.6)
The unique profile of Vestal Peak's Wham Ridge is unmistakable. It is one of Colorado's most beautiful and most astounding high alpine faces. While the standard Wham Ridge line alone is quality enough to warrant inclusion in this list of classics, the so-called "Center Shift," or direct variation, is the best way to experience the full value of this amazing mountain.

Hallett Peak (12,713')- Culp-Bossier (8 pitches, 5.8+)
The Culp-Bossier route is one of the classic alpine moderates. Located in Rocky Mountain National Park, this little mountain offers big adventure and big rewards. 8 pitches of good climbing including mostly solid rock, runout sections, and some solid "old school" 5.8.

Longs Peak (14,255')- Kiener's Route (5.4, moderate snow)
In my opinion, other than the Diamond, Kiener's Route is the best way to take on Longs Peak. Kiener's is an involved climb, with a long approach, a steep snow couloir, tremendous exposure, a little technical rock and a lot of route-finding. It's other name, The Mountaineer's Route, was given for the multiple skills necessary for a successful ascent.

Jagged Mountain (13,824')- Standard Route (5.2)
Jagged Mountain should be one of Colorado's most coveted mountaineering prizes. It is deep in the wilderness, impossible to see from almost any vantage in civilization, has an amazing route to the top, and is one of Colorado's 100 highest. There is exposure, loose rock, and patience necessary to make an ascent of this unique peak possible. It takes a broad spectrum of mountaineering and backcountry skills to climb reticent Jagged.

Climbers on the Longs Peak's Diamond

Longs Peak (14,255')- Pervertical Sanctuary (IV 5.10c)
Any one of the routes on Longs Peak's Diamond deserve to be here. I picked Pervertical Sanctuary for this list. It is the second-easiest way up the Diamond and one of the highest quality in terms of rock and position. Does Longs Peak deserve two routes listed here on this page? It probably deserves more....

Crestone Needle (14,197')- Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
A mega classic that would deserve to be listed here even if it had not been included in the famous book Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. Other than the numerous routes on Longs this is one of the best technical climbs on any 14er in Colorado. First climbed in 1925 by legendary Albert Ellingwood, this route is steeped in history. It is also very high quality and worth making this list.

Mount Meeker (13,911')- The Flying Buttress (6 pitches, 5.9+)
The Flying Buttress on Mount Meeker is yet another classic alpine climb in Rocky Mountain National Park. This excellent route follows a salient feature on the Meeker side of the world-class Longs/Meeker cirque that includes Longs Peak's east face and the Diamond. This route is a worthy objective of its own, easier than the Diamond but harder than many other of the classic RMNP climbs.

Petit Grepon (12,000')- South Face (8 pitches, 5.8)
This slender alpine tower was also included in Fifty Classic Climbs, thus cementing its place in the canon of Colorado mountaineering. Besides being a part of this exclusive club, this mountain is fully worthy of being listed as one of the best alpine mountaineering routes in the state in terms of the quality of its rock and of its position. Just don't climb on a weekend or risk having to wait in line for your ascent.

Kit Carson (14,165')- The Prow (5.8)
The Prow is one of the more interesting and unique features on any Colorado mountain. It is an exposed, aesthetic ridgeline that dances up typical Sangre conglomerate cobbles. While most of the route is 5.6 or easier, the crux comes as the first move, committing you to the route. Escape is difficult and the exposure is amazing. A true alpine classic.

RELATED ARTICLES
Ten Class 3 Colorado Classics- for those too timid or too inexperienced for the class 5 list, check out these classic class 3 scrambles.

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

Ten Class 3 Colorado Classics

There is something fun about class 3. The thrill of climbing meets the freedom of not (usually) needing a rope. I have always enjoyed this grade. I feel mostly comfortable but it occupies my mind more than the long, grunt climbs of the easier class 2 peaks. This article is a toast to the great class 3 scrambles of Colorado.

The Sawtooth Ridge between Evans and Bierstadt

Mt. Bierstadt/Mt. Evans- The Sawtooth
The Sawtooth is a classic alpine ridge that connects two popular 14ers, Mt. Bierstadt and Mt. Evans. After ascending to the top of Bierstadt, this amazing ridge is immediately apparent, and nearly impossible looking. The long, engaging scramble is what makes this route a classic, ending in an exposed ledge that provides reasonable access to the west face of Mt. Evans.

Longs Peak- The Keyhole
No mountain deserves the designation of "classic" more than Longs Peak and no route in Colorado is climbed more often than the Keyhole. Although the approach hike is long, the effort to climb the Keyhole is well worth the trouble. Once you have passed through the Keyhole, the rest of the route is beautiful, exposed and classic. This climb's main detraction, however, is the sheer number of people who attempt this climb. However, if you can get past the crowds, this is truly one of Colorado's best scrambles.

Crestone Peak- The South Face
The South Face of Crestone Peak perhaps the best route on one of Colorado's best mountains. Crestone Peak is a dramatic mountain. The South Face is astounding route with great exposure, fantastic position and a plethora of high-quality class 3 scrambling.

Crestone Needle- The South Face
Crestone Needle along with its companion Crestone Needle form two of Colorado's most rugged and dramatic peaks. The South Face of Crestone Needle is a mega classic, with great sscrambling, engaging route-finding and some tremendous exposure. It is highly recommended by the writers of Colorado Mountaineering to do both the South Face of the Peak and the South Face of the Needle on a single trip, perhaps with a backpack basecamp at Cottonwood or South Colony Lakes.

Snowmass Peak & Snowmass Lake

Snowmass Mountain- East Slopes
Snowmass Mountain is one of my favorite Colorado 14ers and this route takes you through an amazing place. A long alpine approach leads to Snowmass Lake, one of the most dramatic and breathtaking lakes of its size you will find anywhere. From here the route is thrilling. You ascend a long slope of class 2+ before finding a notch through a sharp ridge. The last few hundred feet is loose but engaging class 3.


Mt. Meeker- The Loft
Mt. Meeker (13,911') shares a ridgeline and a dramatic alpine cirque with Longs Peak. The Loft Route on Mt. Meeker takes you through this famous and classic alpine destination via a moderate class 3 scramble. The final ridge after climbing to the Loft is exposed a dramatic, finishing in an astonishing move to the summit block.

Mt. Sneffels Southwest Ridge
Mt. Sneffels is one of the San Juan's most popular mountains and for good reason. It is beautiful and well featured. Even the class 2 standard southeast ridge route is excellent and lively. The Southwest Ridge, however, is a classic route with long section of stout class 3, beautiful scenery, and excellent exposed positions. This route is one of my favorite class 3 scrambles. If weather moves in or time becomes an issue, you can descend the easier and faster standard route.

Relaxing on Sneffels Southwest Ridge route

Torreys Peak- Kelso Ridge
This Front Range classic is a great way to get a little solitude and make a little more of a mountain that is known for being easy. In general, Kelso is a mellow scramble but with a few cruxes that will get your attention. The knife-edge of Kelso, at the very end, is not the most difficult section, but often gets the most press. This exposed section is short lived but will get your attention. It is a good place to warm-up for more exposed and difficult climbing on other Colorado peaks.

Wetterhorn- Southeast Ridge
This standard route on Wetterhorn in Colorado's San Juan Range ranks as one of the best and most exciting class 3 scrambles. This route up Wetterhorn is relatively short, fun, and ends with an exciting scramble to an excellent summit. This excellent climb on this excellent is certainly worthy of this list.

La Plata Peak- Ellingwood Ridge
La Plata was my first 14er, and therefore will always have a special place in my heart. The Ellingwood Ridge route, however, is quite likely the best, and most complicated class 3 route on all of Colorado's 14ers. This route will challenge all but the most hardened of mountaineers with its long, snakelike ridge and devious up and down scrambling. This ridgeline is famous, and time consuming, so don't take it lightly. There are almost infinite variations which allow you to customize the difficulty of your climb. The easiest route is class 3 but you can easily make it class 5 with a more direct line.

The Ellingwood Ridge from La Plata's summit 

RELATED ARTICLES
Ten Class 5 Colorado Mountaineering Classics- is this list too tame for you? Check out or list of ten classic technical (class 5) routes on Colorado's high peaks.
Five Hardest 14er Cruxes- Five of the hardest cruxes on the standard routes of any 14er. Included: the Knife Edge on Capitol, the Leap of Faith on Sunlight, the Hourglass on Little Bear and others.

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Follow us on Twitter!
Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link