Peak of the Week: Blanca Peak

INTRO

Blanca Peak, Colorado's 4th tallest mountain, on the left

Blanca Peak is special for a number of reasons. At 14,345' it is the fourth tallest mountain in the state of Colorado and the tallest outside of the Sawatch Range. It is also considered "ultra-prominent" and with 5,326 feet of topographical prominence is the third most prominent peak in the state (behind Elbert and Pikes). To make it even more interesting, Blanca is known as Sisnaajini, the "Sacred Mountain of the East" to the Navajo people. According to their beliefs it's orientation in the east, the direction of the sunrise and thus the beginning of the day, means that Blanca "determines the orientation of a person’s mind and physical presence on earth."

By many measures it is a worthy and interesting peak and is a mountain that should make Coloradoans proud. As the anchor and gem of the Sangre De Cristo Range, it is important for many reasons.

DIRECTIONS
As with Little Bear, an ascent of Blanca Peak starts at the Lake Como trailhead. Turn onto Hwy 150 about 26 miles east of Alamosa heading towards the Great Sand Dunes National Monument. Just over 3 miles later, follow a sign towards Lake Como. Go as far as your vehicle will allow you, as much as 7 miles all the way to Lake Como (for a burly off-roader).

ROUTES
Northwest Ridge (class 2)
This is the standard route on Blanca Peak and the easiest way to climb the peak. It is very long, however, and without a stout 4WD vehicle you will be forced to gain over 6,000' of elevation, making it one of the more serious undertakings in terms of stamina in the 14er world. Though there are some tricky ledges and steep terrain past the lake and above 13,000' the difficulty should never stretch into the class 3 realm.

Blanca-Little Bear Traverse (class 4)
This ultra-exposed traverse is listed in Gerry Roach's classic guidebook as one of the four classics 14er traverse in the state. He also considers it to be the most difficult. It is famous for exposure and commitment. Remember that you will have to climb Little Bear's famous "Hourglass" just to get started (most people do the traverse from Little Bear to Blanca.)

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
Blanca is a massive peak and takes a bit more grunt effort than many 14ers. It is also one of the four sacred peaks of the Navajo so treat it with respect!

LINKS

Sisnaajini- A discussion of Blanca Peak by the Navajo Nation including many thoughts about what it means to them historically and symbolically.

14ers.com- A detailed look at the standard route of Blanca Peak

Summitpost.org- a detailed page of Blanca Peak including photos, route descriptions and more

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PEAK OF THE WEEK: Little Bear (14,037')

INTRO

Without question Little Bear is one of the most respected and feared peak in all of Colorado 14er lore. Many or my climbing friends regarded this peak as a "(sigh) going to get it over with" climb. And not because (like Culebra or Antero) it is of unimpressive aesthetic value but out of fear and respect for its unique objective hazards.

Most of this reputation comes from the crux section, the Hourglass, which many regard as the most difficult section of any of Colorado's 14ers. According to Gerry Roach there is an easier way to climb Little Bear from the east, but this route is from private property and thus not accessible to the public. Other alternative routes that try to circumnavigate the dreaded Hourglass find themselves on terrain that is just as difficult and probably more dangerous. Though this easier (class 3) route up this peak was once used and may one day be open again in the future, for now all climbers must deal with the Hourglass or worse.

DIRECTIONS
As with Blanca Peak, an ascent of Little Bear starts at the Lake Como trailhead. Turn onto Hwy 150 about 26 miles east of Alamosa heading towards the Great Sand Dunes National Monument. Just over 3 miles later, follow a sign towards Lake Como. Go as far as your vehicle will allow you, as much as 7 miles all the way to Lake Como (for a burly off-roader).

photo courtesy: Alethe88 at English Wikipedia

ROUTES
West Ridge (class 4)
The standard route on Little Bear and the easiest since the closing of the peak's east side. The first part of the climb negotiates a steep, blocky gully on class 2 terrain that leads to a ridge crest. Traverse below the ridge to the right at around 13,000' until you reach the Hourglass, the route's crux. The Hourglass is stomach-puckering class 4 with lots of potential for broken rock and gnarly falls. Often there is a tattered rope or two dangling in the center of gully. Once past the hard climbing, it eases off to class 3 but any loose rock you kick free will tumble into the Hourglass into people below you. Be so careful through here!

Southwest Ridge (class 4)
A route with some access issues. The easiest trailhead (Tobin Creek) is not a legal access point, but this route can still be reached from Lake Como. This does, however, make for a long day. On the ridge expect long exposure, difficult climbing and objective hazards equal to or greater than the West Ridge line. En route you will  traverse over South Little Bear, a sub-peak.

Northwest Face (class 4)
Another alternative to the Hourglass, but again but as dangerous or more dangerous than the West Ridge. With the Northwest Face there is definitely more class 4 terrain, though perhaps the unique rockfall hazards of the Hourglass route can be avoided. Still, not likely to find a safer journey here.

Blanca-Little Bear Traverse (class 4/low class 5)
A long, classic and insanely exposed traverse that allows you to complete Blanca and Little Bear in one day. Gerry Roach calls this one of the four "classic 14er traverses" and warns that it may be the most difficult. There is no doubt that this ridge is long and exposed and there is no escape until the end. With careful route-finding you may be able to keep it at class 4.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
This is a stout and dangerous peak! There have been several deadly accidents on Little Bear, particularly at the Hourglass. This is not a recommended climb for a first 14er or for anyone who is not of excellent physical conditioning and possessing superb balance/decision making skills.

LINKS
Summitpost page on Little Bear

Mountain Project page on Little Bear

14ers.com on Little Bear

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Peak of the Week: Mount Sopris (12,953 feet or 3948 m)

INTRO

Mount Sopris seen from the north

Mount Sopris is probably one of the most picturesque and most frequently climbed 12,000-foot peaks in the state, certainly in the west slope. Despite clocking in at only 12,953 feet, Sopris is a powerful mountain. When viewed from the north it has astonishing prominence, towering more than 6,000 feet above the valley floor below. Another unique feature of Mount Sopris is that each of its twin summits measure in at exactly the same elevation, creating a sort of conundrum for peak baggers. Many choose to just stand on the east summit, which is logical when climbing the standard Thomas Lakes route, as it is the first summit you come to. I would strongly suggest, however, making the out-and-back to the west summit, which provides a better view of Glenwood and allows you the confidence knowing that you truly toured this magnificent peak's amazing top.

DIRECTIONS
From the intersection of Highway 133 and Main Street in Carbondale, follow Hwy 133 south for about 1.6 miles and turn left (east) on Prince Creek Rd. After cruising through some small open ranch properties, continue along the road as it veers east. Veer right at a confusing, triangle-shaped intersection about 7.8 miles after the 133/Main Street intersection. Continue along the narrowing dirt road for a little less than two more miles to a large parking lot with a bathroom on the left. It should be passable in the summer for most passenger cars though some clearance might be recommended. Can be tough in the winter.

ROUTES
Thomas Lakes

Storm over Sopris from the meadow at 9,500 feet

This is the standard route and though there are several more rugged possibilities on the peak's south and west aspects, 99.9% of summer ascents on Mount Sopris are done this way. It can be done in one day though a night at the beautiful Thomas Lakes makes hauling a light backpack well worth it. Start up the wide trail up a mild incline for .6 miles to the first major switchback. At mile 1 the trail turns south and emerges from the trees shortly after. At mile 1.4 you reach a common "shortcut" that climbs directly south up a steeper slopes. This shortcut cuts off a large switchback. Taking the shortcut will save you almost half a mile and both have a well-beaten trail. Taking the old road, however, you will wind around a hill, and climb up a short steep section to reach a meadow at mile 2. There is a beautiful view of the mountain from here at 9,500 feet. Ahead you re-enter the trees and wind though a beautiful aspen-pine area with a trickling stream. At mile 3.4 you reach the first pond, and at mile 3.7 you reach the first lake. There are several number campsites in this area.

Mount Sopris from Thomas Lakes

Hike between and around Thomas Lakes and follow the well-defined trail as it switchbacks up a hill and reaches the northeast ridge proper at 10,600 feet. The trees are noticeably thinning here and you will get the feeling you are nearing treeline. The trail levels out briefly before starting up the meat of the climb. Pick your way through the talus along the beaten path as the route steepens. Some amazing views of capitol open to the southeast. Pass the hardest steepest section (class 2) at mile 5.7 (~12,000 feet), veer westerly, still following the beaten climber's trail and the ridge. Bypass a false summit on the left (south) to reach a spot we always called "the Grassy Knoll," a peaceful patch of flat grass at 12,400 feet. There isn't much left so we always took advantage of a good rest here.

Follow the ramp up mostly stable talus as it makes the final climb to a bump at 12,900 feet. You are very close. Hike another .15  of a mile (6.6 miles total) gradually up to the east summit. Enjoy the view.

The final ramp to the East summit

For those that want to get the full twin-summit Sopris experience, be prepared to add 1.5 miles and 560 feet of total elevation gain onto your already lengthy day. From the east summit, hike .3 miles to the 12,660-foot saddle between the two summits (making it just shy of qualifying as two separate "ranked" peaks), and back up 280 feet and .35 miles to the west summit. Pat yourself on the back. Though you may feel tired, take heart knowing you got the full Sopris experience.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
Part of the route lies in the Snowmass-Maroon Bells Wilderness Area and special wilderness regulations apply. Please only camp in the designated and numbered spots around the lakes. There are some very good sites here and if you are climbing the peak on a weekend or any day when there is a chance that all of these sites might be full, get there early or consider doing just the single day method.

LINKS
Mount Sopris: A Mountain and a Totem- A look back on my first climb of Mount Sopris, a summit that launched my mountain-climbing career.

 Just Say No! to John Denver Peak- an article against the fizzled-out movement to rename the East summit of Mount Sopris John Denver Peak

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Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

Peak of the Week: Kit Carson

Kit Carson Peak (14,165 feet)

INTRO

At 14,165 feet, Kit Carson is Colorado's 23rd highest peak. Overshadowed somewhat but its more famous neighbor, Crestone Peak, Kit Carson is the king of an impressive massif that also includes Challenger Point (14,081 feet, rank: #34) and Columbia Point (13,980 feet, rank: #56). It is an impressive mountain and like many of the high peaks in the Sangre De Cristo Range, it is not an easy one to climb. Its easiest route is class 3 and there are several worthy technical routes also on this unique mountain notable for the wild conglomerate rock.

Though they are relatively narrow, the Sangre's are one of Colorado's most dramatic ranges, and Kit Carson deserves to be listed as one of the range's premier peaks. Every Colorado mountaineer, matter what their skill level, should put this mountain on their list.

DIRECTIONS
Kit Carson is most commonly accessed via South Colony Lake. To get there from Westcliffe, follow Highway 69 for 4.5 miles south. Veer south (right) onto Colfax Lane (County Road 119). Follow this road straight until you reach a T-intersection with Country Road 120 (South Colony Road). Turn right and follow this road 1.5 miles to the trailhead. 4WD vehicles can continue for as many as four more miles to a high trailhead at 11,000 feet. This road is notoriously bad and sometimes a gate may block it off at 9,800 feet.

ROUTES

Kit Carson Avenue

East Ridge (class 3-4)
This is a popular route since it is the easiest way to reach the summit from South Colony Lake.


West Ridge (class 3)
The West Ridge is the easiest way to climb Kit Carson but cannot be done from South Colony Lake. In the process you also climb Challenger Point (14,081 feet). After reaching the summit of this lower neighbor, the route descends to a saddle, finds Kit Carson Avenue and joins the East Ridge for the summit pitch gully to the top.

North Ridge (class 4)
This climb is reached via the Willow Lakes approach on the opposite side of the mountain from the usual South Colony staging ground. This makes the North Ridge a good route for anyone who is looking for a more technical and off-the-beaten-path way to reach the summit than the standard West Ridge.

The Prow (class 5.8)
The Prow is one of Colorado's best technical routes on a 14er. It deserves to be named alongside other great Sangre climbs, like the Ellingwood Arete. While most of the Prow is 5.6 or easier climbing, the route is known for funky, hard-to-protect rock and exhilarating exposure. This is certainly not a place you want to be in a bad storm. The bottom of the technical portion of the route is also guarded by the crux moves of the climb. This overhanging beginning leads to some fun moves above. This is the most proud and enticing way to get to the top of Kit Carson or the experienced rock climber.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
The South Colony Lakes are in the Sangre De Cristo Wilderness Area and special regulations apply. These mostly focus on the carryout of waste. Check out the fact sheet for the Sangre De Cristo Wilderness Area for more information.

LINKS
Kit Carson mountain profile on 14ers.com

The Prow on MountainProject.com

Kit Carson mountain profile on Summitpost.org

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Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page
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Peak of the Week: Crestone Peak (14,294 feet)

INTRO

Late fall dusting of snow of Crestone Peak and
its neighbor Crestone Needle

Without question, Crestone Peak is one of Colorado's most spectacular mountains. It is the anchor of the Sangre De Cristo Range, and its crown jewel. It is rugged, picturesque and intimidating. In terms of mountaineering, climbers will find that "The Peak" is one of the most challenging and technically difficult of Colorado's 14ers. But for the advanced mountaineer, more options are available on the rugged peaks of this massif than almost anywhere else in the state.

Crestone Peak is a classic mountain, one that Colorado can be proud of. The Sangres in general leap from the surrounding valleys with abrupt and awe-inspiring sharpness. These mountains define what it means to be rugged. As Colorado's 7th highest peak, Crestone Peak is the tallest mountain in the state that requires class 3 scrambling to obtain its summit.

Composed of cobbled, conglomerate rock, Crestone Peak and its neighbors are unique to Colorado geology, and climbing them is an experience that no mountaineer, either native or visiting, could ever forget. It is a mountain and a range with a unique personality.

DIRECTIONS
South Colony Lake Trailhead- South Colony Lake is the ideal and most popular base camp for the majority of Crestone Peak routes. It is a good base of operations, in fact, for most of the neighboring peaks as well, making multiple-summit trips logistically viable. From Westcliffe, follow Highway 69 for 4.5 miles south. Veer south (right) onto Colfax Lane (County Road 119). Follow this road straight until you reach a T-intersection with Country Road 120 (South Colony Road). Turn right and follow this road 1.5 miles to the trailhead. 4WD vehicles can continue for as many as four more miles to a high trailhead at 11,000 feet. This road is notoriously bad and sometimes a gate may block it off at 9,800 feet.

ROUTES
South Face (class 3, moderate snow)-
The South Face route on Crestone Peak is almost always the easiest route on the peak. However, this route is long, complicated and almost always entails ascending some moderate sections of snow. From South Colony Lakes, climb a couloir to Broken Hand Pass. Descend to Cottonwood Lake (accessible via a long trail through private property with permission) and climb a vague couloir up the south face to a notch between the main summit and a sub-summit. Scramble a couple hundred more feet to the top.

Northwest Couloir (class 3, steep snow/ice)-

Crestone Peak stands proud

This route is more straightforward and entails less elevation gain than the South Face route, but is generally more difficult and dangerous. Depending on conditions, the couloir with either be a steep but good snow climb, or a mess of icy, rubble-infested ledges. A helmet, crampons and ice axe are recommended in almost any season.

Peak to Needle Traverse (class 5.2, moderate snow)- This popular and challenging traverse is listed in Gerry Roach's guidebook Colorado's Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs as "one of Colorado's four great Fourteener traverses" and for good reason. This route is a spectacular way to visit both of these astounding Colorado peaks. Though originally listed as class 4, standard consensus these days is that there is some limited low class 5 terrain on this route. The most popular way to tackle this route is by climbing Crestone Peak's Northwest Couloir route first, traversing from Peak to Needle, and descending Crestone Needle's South Face. Arguments have been made for doing the traverse in the opposite direction of for starting on the Peak's South Face route instead. This all depends on your skill and mountain conditions. One thing is for sure that this route is long, committing and complicated so plan accordingly.

North Pillar (class 5.8)-
This is the premier technical route on Crestone Peak, and one of the harder alpine climbing in the Sangres. It is not as popular or well-known as the Ellingwood Arete (see a video of climbers on the Ellingwood Arete) on Crestone Needle but is still worth mentioning here. The North Pillar is a ten-pitch climb on the mountain's northeast face, with the crux 5.8 pitch coming about two-thirds of the way up. Be prepared for runouts, complicated route-finding, and some unforgettable knob-pulling on the famous Sangre conglomerate!

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
The South Colony Lakes are in the Sangre De Cristo Wilderness Area and special regulations apply. These mostly focus on the carryout of waste. Check out the fact sheet for the Sangre De Cristo Wilderness Area for more information.

LINKS
Crestone Peak on 14ers.com

The Crestones on mountainproject.com

Crestone Peak on Summitpost.org

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Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

Peak of the Week: Arrow Peak (13,803 feet or 4207 m)

INTRO
There are those in the Colorado mountaineering community who are convinced that the best mountains to climb in our great state are not the ultra-popular 14ers but the lesser-known but just as mighty 13ers. Arrow Peak, in the heart of the San Juan Mountains, is a testament to this.

At 13,803 feet, Arrow Peak falls just shy of hitting the "Centennial" List (Colorado's 100 highest peaks). In terms of rock quality, route aesthetics, and general fun potential, there is hardly a peak anywhere in the state that is more dramatic and fun to climb than Arrow.

When seen from the Colorado Trail alongside its more-famous companion, Vestal Peak, Arrow looks like a peak removed perhaps from the Tetons or one of the rugged ranges of Europe. Arrow Peak is a mountain Colorado can be proud of.

What makes Arrow even more enticing is that its foreboding slopes are not easy to climb. The easiest route, the Northeast Face, is a class 3-4 scramble with many thoughtful and complicated vertical feet. Luckily, the climb is on surprisingly solid quartzite which is unique to the San Juans. Though this route does not require a rope, it is exposed and intricate and not for the beginner.

Not surprisingly, Arrow's rugged escarpments are also home to several technical climbs, especially the North Ridge, a high-quality class 5.6 alpine route.

The Northeast Face of Arrow Peak

DIRECTIONS
The trailhead at Elk Park at the edge of the Weminuche Wilderness Area is accessible either by taking the Durango-Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad from Durango or by hiking in from the Molas Pass Trailhead. The Molas Pass trailhead is two miles north of Molas Pass on Highway 550 in-between the turnoffs for Molas and Little Molas Lake campgrounds. This large dirt lot and trailhead is five miles south of Silverton.

ROUTES
Northeast Face (class 3)
This is the standard and easiest route on Arrow Peak. It is an amazing scramble up remarkably solid rock with amazing positions and views. Most people establish a base camp near 11,500 feet in Vestal Basin right at the foot of this route. From basecamp, follow the spiraling ramp up the northeast face of Arrow peak through some sustained and excellent scrambling to the summit.

North Ridge (class 5.6)
Though not as famous and not as aesthetic as its neighbor Wham Ridge, many argue that the North Ridge of Arrow is quite possibly the better climb of the two. It is longer and more sustained and a bit more difficult than its Vestal Peak sibling. The quartzite is as good as any in the San Juans, and the pitches and high quality and generally fairly well protected.

Arrow and Vestal Peak from the Colorado Trail

Arrow Spire (class 5.8)
An incredible route that climbs a buttress on the peak's west side. This incredible spire to a sub-summit can be see from the Beaver Ponds at 10,000 feet on the Colorado Trail. This is perhaps the most rugged and spectacular of all the Grenadier routes.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
Arrow Peak is in the Weminuche Wilderness. As with all wilderness areas, special regulations apply. Arrow Peak has some unique features worth noting. Taking the train from Durango to the Elk Park station will cut off over 6 miles and 1,800 feet of additional gain and loss of elevation. This is helpful but costs $85 one way. Visit durangotrain.com for more information.

TRIP REPORTS
Dirty (Wet) 30: An Attempt at Arrow and Vestal Peaks to celebrate turning 30.

LINKS
Arrow Peak on summitpost.org

North Ridge on mountainproject.com

Northeast Face on summitpost.org

Arrow Spire on mountainproject.com

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Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

Peak of the Week: The Maroon Bells (14,156' or 4315 m)

INTRO

The Maroon Bells in the Elk Range

The Maroon Bells are two of Colorado's iconic 14,000 foot peaks. They are beautiful, treacherous and infamous. Hardly any mountain in the state has killed as many alpinists as Maroon Peak and its subsidiary North Maroon. Tragedies have been so common on the Bells, in fact, that they have earned the nickname "The Deadly Bells". As someone who has lived in the Roaring Fork Valley for over 15 years, I can tell you that almost every year at least one mountaineer is killed on either of the Bells or its neighbor Pyramid. Some years there are multiple accidents. These are beautiful peaks, but it is important to stress that they are NOT FOR CASUAL HIKERS!!! These are mountains where experience is crucial, though even that might not always save you. With as numerous of objective hazards as you find on crumbling mountains like these, anybody at any time can become a victim.

I am going to group these two peaks together, as they are part of one massif. North Maroon, though on most people's 14er list, does not qualify as an official peak, as it has only 234 feet of topographical prominence. Anyone who scales this traverse, however, will surely argue that these are two distinct peaks. Just about any aficionado of Colorado mountaineering would raise a suspicious eye if you claimed to have climbed all of Colorado’s 14ers and hadn’t been to the top of North Maroon.

DIRECTIONS
Heading north on Highway 82 from Aspen, find an obvious roundabout and take the turn for Maroon Lake Road. Follow this road for almost 10 miles to the end at the parking lot for Maroon Lake. This is the trailhead.

The backside of the Maroon Bells from
Frigid Air Pass.

ROUTES
Maroon Peak- South Ridge (class 3)
This 11-mile route is the easiest way to climb Maroon Peak, but it is very loose and route-finding is notoriously challenging. This route has killed several climbers over the years. The primary threats are falls (usually due to loose rocks breaking), and rockfall. The bottom line is, while this route isn't particularly difficult, it is a rotting mess and therefore not to be taken lightly. Don’t climb below anyone, go one at a time through the worst sections, and for sure without question wear a helmet!

Maroon Peak- Bell Cord Couloir (class 4, steep snow/ice)
Bell Cord is an excellent way to climb Maroon Peak and possibly one of the best snow climbs in the Elk Range. The route ascends the obvious couloir—visible from your car and in all of those famous photos—on the east side of the Maroon Peak massif, ascending directly to the saddle between the two mountains. The best time to climb the Bell Cord depends greatly on the year but usually comes in late spring when the snow is stable but still continuous. This steep gully exceeds 40 degrees for its entire length and is prone to avalanching. An ice axe and a helmet is highly recommended, as well as other technical gear depending on the conditions. This couloir is an excellent alternative to the standard route for the more advanced mountaineer.

The Bells from Pyramid Peak. The Bell Cord is visible
in the center

North Maroon Peak- Northeast Ridge (class 4)
The Northeast Ridge of Maroon Peak is the easiest way to climb North Maroon and is generally considered class 4. I have heard some people describe the chimney move at around 13,600 feet as “the hardest single move on any fourteener.” Other people disagree. Regardless, just about everyone agrees that North Maroon is one of the hardest fourteeners. Certainly, this route is considered a classic.

North Face (North Maroon Peak) (class 4, steep snow/ice)
This slightly obscure line is notable because it ascends the middle of the most prominent face of either of the Maroon Bells when viewed from the parking lot (and again, most of the classic photos). It is also the north face, which while doesn’t mean as much in North America as it does in Europe should still count for something. The problem with this route is that it becomes horribly rotten in bad conditions and thus very dangerous. People have sometimes used this route for a winter ascent or a ski descent. There are several variations that tackle the face with varying degrees of directness.

Peak-to-Peak Traverse (class 4-5.2)

The north face of North Maroon Peak

Classically rated class 4, it seems that by the standards of today this route deserves a slight upgrade, especially if you rate the route with idea of the “single, hardest move.” I do believe that the crux pitch, on the North Maroon side of the ridge traverse proper, has some 5.easy climbing moves. It is not to be taken lightly, especially at elevation and in hiking boots. Traversing from North Maroon to Maroon Peak allows you to rappel over this pitch. Still, there are several other high-end class 4 to 5.easy sections of this traverse. However, the beautiful positions and thrilling exposure are highly rewarding and worth putting on the ticklist of any experienced Colorado mountaineer.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
The Maroon Bells are made of some of Colorado's worst rock and the pair of these peaks have wreaked havoc on many mountaineers in the past. Take great care when climbing on these peaks, especially if you are new to class 3 and 4 scrambling. THESE MIGHT NOT BE GOOD PEAKS FOR YOUR FIRST CLASS 3 ROUTE!!!

It is also important to note that if you plan to bivy, there are some campsites available at Crater Lake. You do need to fill out a permit and carry it with you at the trailhead before you start.

TRIP REPORTS
(none available at this time. Have an epic Maroon Bells story? Email it to Coloradomountaineering2010@gmail.com for consideration to be published on this site)

LINKS
The Maroon Bells on 14ers.com- a close look with great photos of the standard routes on both of the Maroon Bells

Visit THE ARCHIVE: A list of most of our articles sorted by department

Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

Peak of the Week: Mount Columbia (14,073' or 4289 m)

INTRO

Near the summit of Mount Columbia

Overshadowed by its taller neighbor and third highest peak in Colorado Mount Harvard, and marred by a protracted scree field through which the standard route ascends, Mount Columbia is sometimes poo-pooed by 14er climbers and other mountaineers. I have often heard the standard West Slopes route described as "the worst route on any 14er". While I won't tell you that it is my favorite route, I will say that I enjoyed my climb of it back in 2009. And if you are un-inspired by the stories you have heard of the West Slopes, consider an alternate route such as the East Ridge or spice it up by taking the direct ridge traverse (the "Rabbits") to Mount Harvard (class 5.7). Regardless of what you have heard or whatever route you choose to climb, Mt. Columbia is a worthy peak and if you allow yourself you will have a good time. Should you feel forced into the standard route and are feeling down about it, consider backpacking in to the Horn Fork Basin and staying for several days, maybe incorporating a climb of Harvard as well. I find this to be a beautiful, albeit somewhat busy, place and have never left disappointed when I have entered.

DIRECTIONS

Harvard Lakes Trailhead
The Harvard Lakes Trail provides access to Columbia's eastern side and is the approach trail for the East and Southeast Ridge routes.Off Highway 24 in Buena Vista turn west (right if you are heading towards Salida) on Chaffee County 350. After 2 miles turn right on Chaffee County 361. A quarter mile farther the road turns to dirt. Half a mile farther, turn left onto Chaffee County 365. Reach the trailhead 3.5 miles farther on the north side of the road.

North Cottonwood Trailhead
North Cottonwood Trail is the best access point for the Horn Fork Basin and is the approach for the standard West Slopes route on Columbia as well as the South Slopes (standard) route on Harvard as well as the combination routes. From the Harvard Lakes Trailhead, continue for another mile and a half to a large parking area and trailhead at the end of the road.

Three Elk Trailhead
Find Chaffee County 350 off Highway 24 in Buena Vista. After 2 miles turn right onto Chaffee Countt 361. After almost 4 miles, turn west onto Chaffee County 368. After another mile, turn left onto 368A and right onto FR 368 just a little farther. The trailhead is marked three-quarters of a mile later.

ROUTES
West Slopes (10.5 miles; 4,250' elevation gain; class 2) 

The west slopes is the shortest and easiest route on Mount Columbia. Taking the same approach as the standard South Slopes route on Mount Harvard, you follow North Cottonwood Trail into the Horn Fork Basin. After just over 4 miles the route veers west and starts up a long slog up steep, sometimes loose scree. This gnarly slopes gains over 2,000' and is unpleasant to descend. Consider another descent route or something such as the Columbia-Harvard traverse. Once you have reached the ridge, hike a rolling half mile north to the summit.

East Ridge (12 miles; 5,300' elevation gain; class 2)
The East Ridge of Mount Columbia provides an engaging alternative to the oft-cursed West Slopes. Follow the Three Elk Trail as it winds through a beautiful forest, crossing some logging roads, dropping into a small gorge with a creek crossing, and finally reaching the end of the trail at a flat spot near  treeline. From here, climb northwest towards the east ridge. Once you have found the ridge near 12,500' follow it up and over several false summits to the actual summit.

Southeast Ridge (11 miles; 5,129' elevation gain; class 2)
The Southeast Ridge provides another alternative to the loose, gravelly slopes of the standard route. From the trailhead, follow the Harvard Lakes Trail/Colorado Trail through the forest for under a mile until it reaches the ridge proper. Leave the Colorado Trail and follow the serpentine ridge all the way to the summit, crossing Point 13,298 in the process. The last half mile joins with the West Slopes route to the summit.

Harvard/Columbia combination (14 miles; 5,900' elevation gain; class 2)
This is the easiest way to climb Columbia and Harvard together. Climb the West Slopes route on Columbia all the way to the summit. From Columbia's summit, descend north, staying well east of the connecting ridge with Harvard. Staying on the ridge proper will require class 4 and 5 climbing (see "The Rabbits"), descend to 12,800' and contour northwest until it is clear that you are past the ridge proper's pinnacles and spires. Ascend an arduous talus slope to Harvard's east ridge and follow this to the summit.

"The Rabbits" traverse (13.5 miles; 5,600' elevation gain; class 5.7)

Pinnacles on the connecting ridge with Harvard

This is the direct traverse between Harvard and Columbia. It requires some hard, exposed scrambling and one short pitch of 5.7 climbing. If you are doing the traverse from Harvard to Columbia you can rappel this pitch. It is described here from Columbia to Harvard. Follow the West Slopes of Columbia route to its summit. Descend northwest along the ridge proper. Climb or traverse around Point 13,497 with some hard scrambling. Reach a notch at the base of the Rabbits and climb the short, crux 5.7 pitch to the ridge's east side. Scramble around  the remaining pinnacles on the east side and arrive at the 13,100' saddle between the two mountains. After climbing Point 13,516 you reach Harvard East Ridge. Follow this route to the summit.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
Mount Columbia is in the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness Area and special regulations apply.

TRIP REPORTS
None at this time

LINKS
Mount Columbia on summitpost.org

Mount Columbia on 14ers.com

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PEAK OF THE WEEK: Snowmass Mountain (14,092' or 4295 m)

INTRO

Snowmass Mountain from 13,500'

Snowmass Mountain is one of Colorado's more remote and beautiful 14,000' peaks. Situated deep in the Elk Range, Snowmass holds a premium position in one of Colorado's most spectacular areas. From any side Snowmass is a formidable peak, and it is difficult to see from civilization. From certain distant peaks, however, such as Mount of the Holy Cross and other Sawatch and Mosquito Range vantages, Snowmass's distinct twin-summit can be located. It is often one of the last peaks with snow still on it. Both Snowmass and Geneva Lakes on the mountain's east and west sides respectively are two of my Colorado favorites. They are dramatic and both teeming with great trout. They epitomize the area and Colorado. While 13,600' Snowmass Peak, a subsidary and "unofficial" satellite of 87th ranked Hagerman Peak (13,841') dominates the foreground from Snowmass Lake, the view from the West or from the Pierre Lakes to the north reveals Snowmass as the beast it truly is.

DIRECTIONS
Snowmass Trailhead (Snowmass Lake Approach)
From Highway 82 28 miles south of Glenwood Springs (or 13 miles north of the roundabout in Aspen) turn west at the town of Old Snowmass (not to be confused with Snowmass Village, the ski area) onto Snowmass Creek Road. Turn left at a T-junction after a mile and a half (right will take you to Capitol). You hit the dirt road seven miles after turning off Hwy 82 and cross the creek at mile 10.5. Take a right at another intersection a half mile later and the trailhead is only about a quarter-mile beyond that.

Crystal Trailhead (Geneva Lake approach)

Geneva Lake

From the town of Marble off Highway 133 south of Carbondale, follow the main road through Marble until it steepens and becomes dramatically rougher. It is only about five miles to Crystal City but those miles are slow, agonizing and rough. Along the way you will pass the Crystal Mill Falls, one of Colorado's most photographed spots. Crystal City is not far past the photogenic waterfall and there is good parking in a flat area just beyond the city before the road becomes even worse. 4WD is highly recommended if not required even to get to this point. This normal trailhead is just shy of 9,000' elevation. If you like abusing your vehicle, a strong 4WD vehicle can continue all the way to Lead King Basin to shorten the climb 2 miles each way and knock off 800' of vertical.

ROUTES
There are several ways to climb Snowmass Mountain, and there are pros and cons to each option. No matter which way you go, you will be forced to deal with loose rock, exposure, class 3 scrambling, and lots of vertical gain. Snowmass is one of Colorado's more challenging 14ers to do in a single day.

East Slopes Route (class 3, 5,700' elevation gain)

Snowmass Mountain's summit block

The East Slopes route is the standard route on Snowmass Peak. But with a low trailhead (8,400') and a lot of loose scrambling, it is still a long, arduous ascent and certainly no gimmee. A near-permanent snowfield requires some knowledge of snow travel in all but the driest conditions and the mountain's loose rock is notoriously dangerous. Despite these drawbacks, however, this route is one of my favorite of all the standard routes on any Colorado 14er. It is beautiful and classic. I recommend two days with a basecamp at Snowmass Lake. This is a popular spot, so don't expect solitude, but the awe-inspiring beauty more than makes up for it.

West Face (class 3, 5,100' elevation gain)
The West Face of Snowmass is a shorter climb with less vertical, but it is looser and more dangerous than the East Slopes standard route. For those that are trying to climb Colorado's 14ers as expediently as possible, this is probably the best route for you. It can easily be done in a single day. However, I find this route to be not quite as beautiful or engaging as the East Slopes. If you can, I recomened a bivvy at Geneva Lake. Not really because it shortens your summit day, but because this small lake is a hidden gem with great fishing. It is a quiet and amazing corner of a generally over-crowded Elk Range and well worth spending the night at. From Geneva, this route take a nearly direct shot up a shallow gully/couloir left of center on the face. This route is very loose and there is more sustained class 3 section than on the East Slopes route. This route has been known to be deadly, usually due to its bad rock and tricky route-finding, so approach this route with caution.

S-Ridge (class 3+, 5,100' elevation gain)

West Face of Snowmass from Geneva Lake

The S Ridge takes the same approach as the West Face but diverges at Little Gem Lake to tackle the s-curving ridge (hence the name) between the West and South faces of Snowmass Mountain. This route is even shorter than the West Face but has even more complicated, exposed, and loose scrambling, so takes longer to climb. The rock on this route is so loose, actually, that this route is seldom climbed.


SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
Snowmass Mountain lies in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness Area and special regulations apply. For example, you are not allowed to camp within 100 feet of lakes or streams. Beware, they will ticket you at the compular camping area at Snowmass Lake so be diligent. You are also not allowed to have fires in most areas within the Wilderness Boundaries. It is also required that you carry a permit which includes all of the rules. Check out this page by wilderness.net  that gives more information about the special regulations of the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness area.

Snowmass Peak and Lake

TRIP REPORTS
Snowmass Mounain, Geneva Lake, & the Four Pass Loop-a narrative of a 7 day backpack trip on the Four Pass Loop with an extension out and back to Geneva Lake and culminating in an ascent of the East Slopes Route to the summit.

LINKS
Snowmass Mountain on Summitpost.org- a user-created site with lots of good information. This page includes information about a variety of routes on Snowmass Mountain.

Snowmass Mountain on 14ers.com- the most popular website dedicated solely to Colorado's 14ers. This page includes details information and photographs about Snowmass Mountain and its primary routes.



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Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

PEAK OF THE WEEK: Quandary Peak

INTRO

Quandary Peak from Highway 9

Quandary Peak has a reputation as one of Colorado's easiest and most accessible 14ers. It is a relatively short and straightforward ascent, which makes it popular as a first fourteener or as a winter ascent. Its location just a few miles away from Breckenridge off I-70 also increase the amount of traffic this mountain sees. Despite Quandary's reputation as an accessible and simple mountaineering destination, it also offers some hidden challenges for alpinists who desire more than just a easy class 1 trail hike. Several routes on the mountains north and west sides are far more engaging than the pedestrian standard route up the East Slopes (Quandary Peak Trail). The West Ridge offers a class 3 scramble (though on dangerously loose rock), the Cristo Couloir is a short and engaging snow climb on the peak's south slopes, and the Inwood Arete provides a technical rock climb on Quandary's rugged north face. From casual hikers to winter ascentionisits to rockaneers, Quandary has a little something for everyone.

DIRECTIONS

Near 14,000' on Quandary's East Slopes

From downtown Breckenridge take Highway 9 south towards Hoosier Pass. After 8 miles, locate a small dirt road (CR 850) about two miles short of Hoosier Pass's summit. Very quickly you will find McCullough Gulch Road (CR 851) on the right. Take this road. The Quandary Peak trailhead is just a short distance up this road on the right. To reach the snow couloirs on the peak's north side and the West Ridge route, forgo the turn onto McCullough Gulch and continue 2 miles along CR 850 to the Blue Lake trailhead at the base of a dam. To reach the South Face and Inwood Arete, continue on CR 851 for a couple of miles until you reach a locked gate.

ROUTES
East Slopes (standard)
The standard East Slopes route on Quandary Peak is one of the easiest and most popular routes on a Colorado 14er. A good trail takes you all the way to the summit. From the trailhead, follow the well-defined trail as it winds through the forest for a few miles to treeline at 11,500'. Downed lumber can sometimes impede your progress in this section but shouldn't be too much of an issue. From treeline continue up the trail along a rounded ridgeline to a flat section at 13,100'. From here the angle steepens. Switchback up the final 1,000' to Quandary's excellent summit.

Cristo Couloir
This snow couloir is short and straightforward. From the Blue Lake trailhead, locate the couloir. It is the most apparent and leftmost of three climbable couloirs on Quandary's South Face. The couloir is short, just barely over a mile, but ascends 2,500', so be ready for some steep climbing. Avalanches are a strong possibility, so carefully consider the snow conditions before beginning. This route is an unpleasant scree mess when the snow has melted out.

Inwood Arete

The final push to the summit of Quandary

This technical alpine route is an interesting way to make more of a challenge out of a mountain that has a reputation for being easy. From the trailhead hike along a climber's trail to a lake near 12,000'. The arete begins here. You can do a direct start at 5.6-5.7 or head east to an easier 5.4 start. Climb mostly 5.easy climbing past some towers (do not climb the towers) until you are deposited on easier terrain (still class 3 and 4) above somewhere around 13,500'. Expect runnouts, loose rock, and some tricky routefinding on this route.

TRIP REPORTS
Quandary Peak: Late Spring in the Colorado Mountains
An account of a successful ascent of the East Slopes route of Quandary in June 2010. With heavy snow still on the trail, the route was considerably more difficult than when it is dry in summer.

LINKS
Inwood Arete on Summitpost.org
Inwood Arete on mountainproject.com

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Copyright notice: This website and all its contents are the intellectual property of www.coloradomountaineering.com and its authors. None of the content can be used or reproduced without the approval of www.coloradomountaineering.com.
Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

PEAK OF THE WEEK: Castle Peak (14,265' / 4348 m)

INTRODUCTION

Castle Peak and the Montezuma Basin

At 14,265' (4348 m) Castle Peak is the tallest mountain in Colorado's prestigious Elk Range and is the 12th highest mountain in Colorado. It is also the easiest 14er in the Elk Range to climb and a rough 4WD road stretches all the way to 12,700'. Fans of the abbreviated 14er experience who have a rugged off-road vehicle can shorten this mountain to a relatively short hike with only 1,500' of elevation gain. Using this method, Castle Peak is one of the easiest big mountains in Colorado to climb in terms of overall effort. However, Castle Peak is not immune to the Elk Range's infamous terrible rock quality, and the route itself does have some exposed and loose class "2+" sections. It is important to emphasize that it is not a walk-up in the same sense as the choss lumps of the nearby Sawatch Range. There is a  trail for most of the climb, but there is usually a permanent snow field to cross as well as several rocky sections that will require the use of your hands and careful attention to footwork.

While overshadowed by its much more famous and impressive Elk Range siblings (the Maroon Bells, Capitol Peak, Snowmass Mountain) Castle still reigns as a sort of redheaded stepchild who happens to be the oldest and biggest. The views from the summit are good and the basin between Castle and Conundrum is well worth exploring. There are several excellent couloirs on both peaks that allow for easy to moderate snow ascents as well as high quality back country skiing descents. Both Conundrum and Castle Couloirs have become more popular in recent years for this purpose.

GETTING THERE

Hiking along the approach road around 12,000'

Castle Peak is reached from Highway 82 just north of Aspen. From a large roundabout, take the Castle Creek Road turn towards the Aspen Music School, Aspen Hospital and Ashcroft. Follow this winding road along beautiful Castle Creek past the music school campus and some well to do homes. After 11 miles you will reach Ashcroft, a mini-hamlet with an excellent restaurant (The Pine Creek Cookhouse) and some other development. Continue for another two miles to a turnoff at a dirt road (FR 102) before a bridge over the creek. This is your turn. Follow the deterioration dirt road as it parallels the creek. Many passenger cars will park after only about a half mile. There is some free camping available in here as well. This is at around 9,800' elevation. If you decide to continue to the 4WD trailhead, continue along the road as it makes a tough creek crossing that will deter most passenger cars and station wagons (and all vehicles at high water). About two miles further is a common parking spot near the turnoff for Pearl Pass at 11,160'. Only the most rugged vehicles will want to continue past here. Don't go to Pearl Pass (a left turn) but continue along the road for another 2.4 miles to the highest trailhead at 12,800'. This makes your day very short and makes Castle Peak one of the fourteeners you can climb with the least amount of elevation gain.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
As previously mentioned, although Castle is technically the easiest 14er in the Elk Range, it is still home to the same notoriously rotten rock that has made the Maroon Bells, Pyramid Peak, and Capitol so infamous. This rock has cost a large number of people their lives throughout the Elk Range. Although Castle is not as exposed or difficult as these other peaks, it is still vitally important to tread very carefully on this loose mountain.

ROUTES

Northeast Ridge (Standard Route)
The Northeast Ridge route on Castle Peak became the standard summer route after a solid trail was constructed through the loose talus on this ridge. From the Castle Creek (standard, see above) trailhead, follow the road to the highest parking lot at 12,800'. Hike south from the parking lot towards Montezuma Basin between Castle (visible ahead) and Conundrum (to the southwest). There is usually a snowfield just past here to ascend. The snow is not particularly steep, but depending on conditions a ice axe might come in handy. After the snowfield follow the distinct trail through the talus as it enters the basin. Soon it will veer left and start to wind up the slope to where it reaches the ridge proper. From here the route gets a bit rougher and more exposed, though with careful routefinding should never exceed class 2. The last bands of rock are a bit steep but not too technical. Enjoy the rounded summit!

blue=Northeast Ridge; green=Castle Couloir; red=Northwest Ridge

Northwest Ridge
Before the construction of the good trail the winds through the talus on the Northeast Ridge route, this used to be the standard way to reach Castle's summit. Today it has fallen out of favor, largely due to the moderate snow climb to reach the saddle between Castle and Conundrum. When the snow melts at the top of this climb a steep, horribly slippery slope caps this route, presenting an even less attractive option. In the winter or spring, however, is snow is abound on both routes, this is probably the easiest and fastest way to reach the summit of Castle Peak. Follow the Northeast Ridge route past the 4WD trailhead and past the first snowfield into Montezuma Basin between the two mountains. Skirt a sinkhole/lake at the base of Conundum Couloir that formed a few years back (some unstable-looking geography through here). Climb the snowfield to the saddle between Castle and Conundrum at 13,800'. This is easiest when there is snow all the way to the saddle, for when the top section melts off (as in the photo above) the last hundred feet or so is on steep, dangerous ball bearings. From the saddle for the blunt ridge to Castle's summit. The terrain shouldn't exceed class 2.

Castle Couloir
A high quality snow climb on Castle Peak when the conditions are right. Follow the Northwest Ridge route into the basing between the two peaks. As you near Castle's North Face, locate the obvious couloir on its east (left) side. This couloir is only in good condition if it has snow for its full length. Climb this couloir for nearly 600 feet where you join the Northeast ridge at about 14,100' for the last pitch to the summit.

West Ridge

The West Ridge on the right skyline

This wilderness excursion offers a unique and exciting way to reach Castle's summit. This would be a good way for the mountaineer that is less concerned about ticking as many 14ers as quickly as possible but really getting the most enriching experience as possible from their mountaineering adventure. This route takes you to the Conundrum Hot Springs, one of the many wonders of the Elk Range. This route is almost certainly done as a backpack as it is 21 miles in length and gains nearly 7,000' of elevation. Most parties will camp at the Hot Springs and attempt the route the following day. While this is a wilderness trek into one of Colorado's most amazing and special basins, don't expect solitude. The Conundrum Hot Springs are notorious for crowds. Avoid holiday weekends and perhaps peak season if don't want to fight for campsites.

From the Conundrum trailhead (see this link for directions to this famous trailhead), hike for 8 miles along the well-defined trail to the Conundrum Hot Springs. This wonderful location is home to two nice hot spring pools at 11,200'. It is hard to beat the hot water at this high altitude. There is also good, designated campsites around the springs. This makes for a dreamy basecamp for your ascent of the West Ridge. Just past the springs, hike along a talus field into a bowl. Continue up along loose rock to a saddle at 13,600 west of 13,803' "Castleabra" (Colorado's 105th tallest peak). Climb up and over "Castleabra" to a 13,600' saddle at the top of "Cunning Couloir" (a reticent and climbable couloir that is also accessed from the Conundrum Trailhead). From here route gets a bit more difficult. Scramble up some class 3 to the summit of unranked Point 13,820. Descend yet again to another saddle at around 13,550' and scramble the last ridge to Castle's summit. Remember, if you are going to descend this route you have to return over Point 13,820 and "Castleabra".


TRIP REPORTS

(none available at this time)

EXTERNAL LINKS

Castle Peak on Summitpost.org
Castle Peak on 14ers.com