Peak of the Week: The Maroon Bells (14,156' or 4315 m)

INTRO

The Maroon Bells in the Elk Range

The Maroon Bells are two of Colorado's iconic 14,000 foot peaks. They are beautiful, treacherous and infamous. Hardly any mountain in the state has killed as many alpinists as Maroon Peak and its subsidiary North Maroon. Tragedies have been so common on the Bells, in fact, that they have earned the nickname "The Deadly Bells". As someone who has lived in the Roaring Fork Valley for over 15 years, I can tell you that almost every year at least one mountaineer is killed on either of the Bells or its neighbor Pyramid. Some years there are multiple accidents. These are beautiful peaks, but it is important to stress that they are NOT FOR CASUAL HIKERS!!! These are mountains where experience is crucial, though even that might not always save you. With as numerous of objective hazards as you find on crumbling mountains like these, anybody at any time can become a victim.

I am going to group these two peaks together, as they are part of one massif. North Maroon, though on most people's 14er list, does not qualify as an official peak, as it has only 234 feet of topographical prominence. Anyone who scales this traverse, however, will surely argue that these are two distinct peaks. Just about any aficionado of Colorado mountaineering would raise a suspicious eye if you claimed to have climbed all of Colorado’s 14ers and hadn’t been to the top of North Maroon.

DIRECTIONS
Heading north on Highway 82 from Aspen, find an obvious roundabout and take the turn for Maroon Lake Road. Follow this road for almost 10 miles to the end at the parking lot for Maroon Lake. This is the trailhead.

The backside of the Maroon Bells from
Frigid Air Pass.

ROUTES
Maroon Peak- South Ridge (class 3)
This 11-mile route is the easiest way to climb Maroon Peak, but it is very loose and route-finding is notoriously challenging. This route has killed several climbers over the years. The primary threats are falls (usually due to loose rocks breaking), and rockfall. The bottom line is, while this route isn't particularly difficult, it is a rotting mess and therefore not to be taken lightly. Don’t climb below anyone, go one at a time through the worst sections, and for sure without question wear a helmet!

Maroon Peak- Bell Cord Couloir (class 4, steep snow/ice)
Bell Cord is an excellent way to climb Maroon Peak and possibly one of the best snow climbs in the Elk Range. The route ascends the obvious couloir—visible from your car and in all of those famous photos—on the east side of the Maroon Peak massif, ascending directly to the saddle between the two mountains. The best time to climb the Bell Cord depends greatly on the year but usually comes in late spring when the snow is stable but still continuous. This steep gully exceeds 40 degrees for its entire length and is prone to avalanching. An ice axe and a helmet is highly recommended, as well as other technical gear depending on the conditions. This couloir is an excellent alternative to the standard route for the more advanced mountaineer.

The Bells from Pyramid Peak. The Bell Cord is visible
in the center

North Maroon Peak- Northeast Ridge (class 4)
The Northeast Ridge of Maroon Peak is the easiest way to climb North Maroon and is generally considered class 4. I have heard some people describe the chimney move at around 13,600 feet as “the hardest single move on any fourteener.” Other people disagree. Regardless, just about everyone agrees that North Maroon is one of the hardest fourteeners. Certainly, this route is considered a classic.

North Face (North Maroon Peak) (class 4, steep snow/ice)
This slightly obscure line is notable because it ascends the middle of the most prominent face of either of the Maroon Bells when viewed from the parking lot (and again, most of the classic photos). It is also the north face, which while doesn’t mean as much in North America as it does in Europe should still count for something. The problem with this route is that it becomes horribly rotten in bad conditions and thus very dangerous. People have sometimes used this route for a winter ascent or a ski descent. There are several variations that tackle the face with varying degrees of directness.

Peak-to-Peak Traverse (class 4-5.2)

The north face of North Maroon Peak

Classically rated class 4, it seems that by the standards of today this route deserves a slight upgrade, especially if you rate the route with idea of the “single, hardest move.” I do believe that the crux pitch, on the North Maroon side of the ridge traverse proper, has some 5.easy climbing moves. It is not to be taken lightly, especially at elevation and in hiking boots. Traversing from North Maroon to Maroon Peak allows you to rappel over this pitch. Still, there are several other high-end class 4 to 5.easy sections of this traverse. However, the beautiful positions and thrilling exposure are highly rewarding and worth putting on the ticklist of any experienced Colorado mountaineer.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
The Maroon Bells are made of some of Colorado's worst rock and the pair of these peaks have wreaked havoc on many mountaineers in the past. Take great care when climbing on these peaks, especially if you are new to class 3 and 4 scrambling. THESE MIGHT NOT BE GOOD PEAKS FOR YOUR FIRST CLASS 3 ROUTE!!!

It is also important to note that if you plan to bivy, there are some campsites available at Crater Lake. You do need to fill out a permit and carry it with you at the trailhead before you start.

TRIP REPORTS
(none available at this time. Have an epic Maroon Bells story? Email it to Coloradomountaineering2010@gmail.com for consideration to be published on this site)

LINKS
The Maroon Bells on 14ers.com- a close look with great photos of the standard routes on both of the Maroon Bells

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Featured Route: Pyramid Peak, Northeast Ridge

Length: 8 miles
Elevation gain: 4,420 feet
Difficulty: class 4 (loose steep rock, moderate route finding challenges)
Exposure: moderate

From Maroon Lake, follow the Crater Lake trail for 1.5 miles to a level clearing filled with glacial moraine boulders. Find a trail on the left (south) side of the trail marked by a large cairn. Follow this trail as it switchbacks through the forest and across some scree slopes to a notch left of a large pinnacle. The trail end at the terminus of a large rock glacier that empties an “amphitheater” at the bottom of Pyramid’s North Face. Follow the path of least resistance up the rock glacier to the bottom of the face, turn left (east) to the bottom of a scree slope left of the main difficulties of the North Face. The approach is over.

Climb steep, loose scree on a well-trodden climbers trail 1,000’ to a saddle a little less than 13,000’. The rest of the route is visible above you. Ascend the ridge, staying mostly on its right side past another, smaller saddle up to a notch with a steep headwall. Descend through some boulders to the left side of the ridge. Find a climbers trail that traverses over a couple rock ribs and across the “Cliff Traverse”, a narrow ledge that pinches down to a narrow crux in the middle. Continue on a strong climber’s trail past another rock rib, across a dirty gully until you reach the Green Couloir.


Now the fun part begins. Climb the Green Couloir for a couple hundred feet, being very cautious with loose rock (class 3). It might be best to climb this one at a time to avoid knocking rocks on each other. Exit the green rock left at some cairns and climb steepening rock through several cliffbands. There are several ways to negotiate this section, the path of least resistance climbs a small chimney and cliffband crux that are both class 4. Keep in mind that downclimbing is harder for most people. Stay left of the ridge itself and make a few class 3 moves just before breaking loose onto the amazing summit. Enjoy one of my favorite summit platforms.

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Featured Route: Snowmass Mountain East Slopes

EAST SLOPES OF SNOWMASS MOUNTAIN
Length: 22 miles
Total Elevation gain: 5,700'
Difficulty: class 3

OVERVIEW

The East Slopes (standard) route on Snowmass Mountain is one of Colorado's most spectacular 14er adventures. At 22 miles, it is a very long hike, and I recommend 2 days. Though the hike in and out will be more difficult with the extra gear, the extra time will allow you to take your time and enjoy this beautiful place. Although Snowmass Lake is very likely one of the busiest lakes in the Colorado's backcountry, it is quite beautiful and offers numerous opportunities for places to camp.

Like most climbs in the Elk Range, the East Slopes of Snowmass Mountain is steep, loose and dangerous. It has proven fatal for several mountaineers over the years. Almost the entire route once you have passed the Snowmass Lake is one slippery scree and once you have pass around 13,500' the route becomes particularly dangerous. Wear a helmet, use caution, and be careful not to climb directly underneath another party.

THE ROUTE

The long approach to the East Slopes of Snowmass Mountain is one of the longest for any standard route on a 14er in Colorado. The approach alone is over 8 miles and gains over 2,500' in elevation. The hike is long an provides some beautiful views. After 6.5 miles you must cross the creek. This can be a challenge at high spring runoff levels. Depending on the flow level/wood conditions people usually tiptoe across a log jam. If the water is low you can sometimes cross the creek directly below the jam. Not far after negotiating this obstacle, you reach the lake itself. There are many good campsites here. Beware, however, of rules against camping too close to the lake and against fire in general.

Hike along the east and south sides of the lake and find a climber's trail that starts up the loose rock on the lake's west end. The approach is over. Climb up the steepening slope along a vague climber's trail into the huge basin on Snowmass Peak's east slopes. Depending on the time of year and conditions there may be some snow to climb at the top of this basin. The usual route veers a bit south as you approach the ridge and finds a notch through the cliffs to reach the summit ridge. In dry, late-summer conditions, or if the snow covering is complete, you can hike more directly towards the summit, finding a breach in the cliffs and reaching the summit ridge near 13,900'. From here you traverse slightly onto the west side of the mountain and pick your way through some class 3 boulders to the summit.

 Looking across to Capitol Peak from Snowmass's summit

DIRECTIONS
From Highway 82 28 miles south of Glenwood Springs (or 13 miles north of the roundabout in Aspen) turn west at the town of Old Snowmass (not to be confused with Snowmass Village, the ski area) onto Snowmass Creek Road. Turn left at a T-junction after a mile and a half (right will take you to Capitol). You hit the dirt road seven miles after turning off Hwy 82 and cross the creek at mile 10.5. Take a right at another intersection a half mile later and the trailhead is only about a quarter-mile beyond that.

TRIP REPORTS

The summit of Snowmass Mtn

Geneva Lake, Snowmass Mountain, and the Four Pass Loop- A seven day backpack trip following the Four Pass Loop but also with extensions to Geneva Lake and an ascent of the East Slopes (standard) route of Snowmass Mountain.

LINKS
East Slopes on Summitpost.org

East slopes on 14ers.com


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Get Better at Rock Climbing... Today!

Traditional climbing in Unaweep Canyon

Getting better at rock climbing, every climber wants to do it, not everyone knows how. There are some crazy theories out there, some good and some not as good. But if you really want to improve your climbing in the shortest time possible, there are a few tricks that will help you turn that project from a dream into a send. This article is a brief look at some time-tested methods that are guaranteed to make you a better climber.

I will break this article into several sections and end it with a sample one-month workout routine that will help you see results fast.

I. NON-CLIMBING TRAINING
An important aspect of training for climbing is conditioning your body to be in the ultimate shape for rock climbing. But what does this ultimate shape look like? Bulky and ripped with muscles?  Lean and slender? The truth is there is a good medium. Too much muscle is as bad as too little, as muscle is heavy and will weigh you down. Consider Ashima Shiraishi,  the young climbing prodigy who recently gained notoriety for being the youngest person to climb V13 and 5.14c. Ashima is very small and light, and her strength-to-weight ration allows her to make gymnastic moves on the tiniest holds.

One thing that is for certain, however, is that excess body fat should be your first priority. Unlike muscle it obviously doesn't add to your strength and acts like an anchor while on the wall. When I first started climbing, I was about fifteen pounds over my ideal climbing weight. Losing that extra flab alone allowed me to go from a shaky 5.8 climber to a shaky 5.10 climber. Chances are, you know if you are a little overweight. As a climber you have to be very lean to climb at your peak.
   A. Cardio/overall fitness
     Cardio fitness is important. It helps you shed excess weight and will help you build stamina. If you are overweight and need to lose some pounds, I recommend a vigorous cardio workout three or four times a week. This could mean a 40 minute run, an hour of hard swimming, or a difficult hike. Anything that gets you breathing hard and sweating and gets your heart rate up into the training range (about 80% of your max) for at least 30 minutes consistently. If you are already at or near an ideal weight, you can reduce this to two times a week and lessen the intensity.
   B. Muscle training
     Lifting weights has some benefit for climbing, but while building head-turning biceps might be good to impress the ladies (or guys) it does little to help you send that 5.12 project you've been dreaming about. Most of your muscle training should be focused on working muscles that oppose the most frequently used climbing muscle groups. For example, climbing is a forearm-intensive activity, so working out the extensor muscle group (the muscles opposite the forearm) with exercises such as reverse wrist curls will help keep you from becoming too lopsided and risking injury. Basic muscle exercises, however, like push-ups, sit-ups, wrist curls, lat pulls, etc, can have some benefit if you feel you are lacking in overall strength. Climbing, however, is the best training for climbing, as will be discussed in the next section.

The author on Urban Cowboy (5.12a)

II. ON THE ROCKS
     The best way to become the climber you always wanted to be is to climb, and climb a lot. But haphazardly attacking the wall at your local gym, consistently flailing on climbs that are too hard for you, or climbing the same routes over and over, are all ways to slow your progress, and soon you will find yourself plateauing and wondering why you don't seem to get better despite how often you are tying in. Here are a few ideas regarding making the most your actual climbing time.
   A. On-sight climbing- One of the quickest ways to find yourself stuck on that proverbial plateau  is to climb the same routes over and over. The cure to this is simple: focus your time climbing on-sight! Always find new routes and new areas. The more rock you are exposed to, the easier you will be able to adapt to anything new you might encounter. Running laps on climbs you know by heart may be good for endurance, but your muscle memory is locked and you gain very little skill. Try to spend 2/3rds of your climbing time on rock that is brand new to you. At the gym, try climbing "random" routes where you pick your way as you go. Difficulty is less important than you might think, but exposing your body to new holds, new positions, and new sequences will make your skill level skyrocket.
   B. Projecting- Although it is good to spend most of your time climbing onsight, projecting has benefits too. For one, having a "dream project" helps keep you motivated and working hard to improve. It also challenges you to force your body to improve. You may discover new types of sequences that you never thought of. The key to projecting is not to become too fixated. Try your project for awhile and move on, but don't focus only on one climb.  Beware, however; projecting a climb that is overly difficult for you, one where you make very little progress on any given day, is not productive and a quick way to find yourself feeling stuck.
   C. Downclimbing- A highly neglected aspect of climbing. It is easy to reach the top of a route, feeling tired, as simply yell "ready to lower". If you do this, however, you are missing out on a chance to work on a necessary and valuable skill: downclimbing. Downclimbing teaches you balance and makes you think about the rock in ways you may never have thought of. I suggest doing it as often as possible. Just remember while downclimbing to be safe and don't try it on a route that might put you in danger.
   D. The Gym- Gym climbing is a good way to build your strength and work on technique in a user-friendly and relatively safe setting. However, the gym is not real rock, and spending too much time at the gym can actually hurt your outdoor skills in some ways. Gym climbing is good for bad weather days and the off-season. You can work out hard, get many reps in, and improve your skills. On the other hand, those neon holds are often not very much like what you will really encounter and make route reading far too easy. The best way to get better at real climbing is to climb outside as much as possible, and supplement this with indoor climbing when the outdoors aren't available.
   E. Rest days- Another huge mistake many climbers make is to climb too much. You must give yourself plenty of good days of rest. One key to remember is that you don't gain strength during workout days, only while you sleep and rest. If you are climbing hard 5 days a week you are breaking your muscles down and not allowing them time to rebuild. Your strength gains will not be as much as if you climb 3-4 days a week and allow your body time to recover.

(Continued on Page 2...)

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FEATURED ROUTE: North Mount Elbert Trail (Northeast Ridge)

North Mount Elbert Trail (Northeast Ridge)
length: 9 miles
difficulty: class 1+
elevation gain: 4,400'
special beta: busy on a summer weekend

INTRO

Mt. Elbert, it needs little introduction. It is not the prettiest, hardest, or most remote Colorado mountain, but it is our highest. And not only is Elbert Colorado's highest mountain, but it is also the highest mountain in the American Rockies. As a result, Elbert is one of the busiest of Colorado's fourteeners.

The Northeast ridge is one of two "standard" routes up Mount Elbert and the easiest way to climb Elbert from the north. There is a decent trail all the way to the summit. Though the route is easy from a technical standpoint, it is just over nine miles in length round-trip and gains almost 4,500' of elevation. This can be a strenuous climb for those who take it on too lightly. The reward for the long hike, however, is the second highest perch in the lower 48 behind only California's Mt. Whitney.

GETTING THERE
From Highway 24 approximately 3 miles south of Leadville, turn west onto Highway 300. After .8 mile turn left (south) on CR-11. 1.2 miles farther, follow signs toward Halfmoon Creek and turn right. The North Mt. Elbert TH is five miles farther on the left (south) side of the road. There are several National Forest campsites in the area as well as dispersed camping. The more environmentally correct option is to stay in the developed, fee-based areas. If you must set-up in dispersed areas, please avoid building fire rings, there are plenty already. The North Elbert trailhead is about one half-mile east of the Mt. Massive trailhead (which is on the opposite side of the road).

 ROUTE DESCRIPTION

From the trailhead at just over 10,000', follow the North Mt. Elbert Trail as winds through a pristine forest on Elbert's northeast flank. Leave the Colorado Trail behind at mile 1.4 and turn right towards Mt. Elbert. This junction is at about 10,400'. This may be a good place for a short rest as the route becomes much steeper from here. Around mile 2.7 you reach treeline, and the upper portion of the mountain comes into view (note: you cannot see the actual summit yet). From this point you have about two miles of hiking left but you still must climb over 2,500' of elevation to reach the top.

Once past treeline, the trail begins to switchback steeply up Mt. Elbert's barren northeast ridge. Though the trail is quite good, you may still have to pay close attention to your footing on the steepest sections, especially if you aren't used to hiking on scree at altitude. In terms of difficulty of terrain, this route is slightly harder than the Grays Peak trail but not as hard as the South Slopes standard route up Torreys.

When you reach what has thus far appeared to be the top, you will find that it is only a false summit and the actual top is still a little farther. Depending on what kind of day you are having this may or may not be discouraging. If you're feeling exhausted, take heart knowing that Colorado's highest point is just under a half mile and four-hundred vertical feet away.

On Mt. Elbert's summit you will most likely be joined by hikers who have climbed Elbert from other routes, such as the popular South Mt. Elbert Trail. No matter, this commodious summit has something for everyone. To the north you can look out across the Halfmoon Creek area at Mt. Massive and revel at the might of its girth and lofty summits. Also visible to the north and west are centennial thirteeners Mt. Oklahoma (13,845'), French Mountain (13,940'), Casco Peak (13,908'), and "Lackawanna Peak" (13,823'). The view to the south is dominated by the familiar shapes and humps of other Sawatch fourteeners, especially La Plata (14,336') whose dramatic north face and rugged Ellingwood Ridge are particularly astounding from the vantage atop Elbert. The surrounding mountains are so impressive, in fact, that we once met a man on Elbert's summit who was convinced (and pissed off) that he'd climbed the wrong mountain because others nearby appeared taller. We tried to assure him that distance and perspective can be deceiving and that he was indeed on the highest mountain in the American Rockies.

LINKS Mt. Elbert Profile- A more thorough examination of Mt. Elbert including this description as well as overviews of some of its other routes.

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Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous!! Please see the DISCLAIMER page For information about how to contact us, visit this link

PEAK OF THE WEEK: Castle Peak (14,265' / 4348 m)

INTRODUCTION

Castle Peak and the Montezuma Basin

At 14,265' (4348 m) Castle Peak is the tallest mountain in Colorado's prestigious Elk Range and is the 12th highest mountain in Colorado. It is also the easiest 14er in the Elk Range to climb and a rough 4WD road stretches all the way to 12,700'. Fans of the abbreviated 14er experience who have a rugged off-road vehicle can shorten this mountain to a relatively short hike with only 1,500' of elevation gain. Using this method, Castle Peak is one of the easiest big mountains in Colorado to climb in terms of overall effort. However, Castle Peak is not immune to the Elk Range's infamous terrible rock quality, and the route itself does have some exposed and loose class "2+" sections. It is important to emphasize that it is not a walk-up in the same sense as the choss lumps of the nearby Sawatch Range. There is a  trail for most of the climb, but there is usually a permanent snow field to cross as well as several rocky sections that will require the use of your hands and careful attention to footwork.

While overshadowed by its much more famous and impressive Elk Range siblings (the Maroon Bells, Capitol Peak, Snowmass Mountain) Castle still reigns as a sort of redheaded stepchild who happens to be the oldest and biggest. The views from the summit are good and the basin between Castle and Conundrum is well worth exploring. There are several excellent couloirs on both peaks that allow for easy to moderate snow ascents as well as high quality back country skiing descents. Both Conundrum and Castle Couloirs have become more popular in recent years for this purpose.

GETTING THERE

Hiking along the approach road around 12,000'

Castle Peak is reached from Highway 82 just north of Aspen. From a large roundabout, take the Castle Creek Road turn towards the Aspen Music School, Aspen Hospital and Ashcroft. Follow this winding road along beautiful Castle Creek past the music school campus and some well to do homes. After 11 miles you will reach Ashcroft, a mini-hamlet with an excellent restaurant (The Pine Creek Cookhouse) and some other development. Continue for another two miles to a turnoff at a dirt road (FR 102) before a bridge over the creek. This is your turn. Follow the deterioration dirt road as it parallels the creek. Many passenger cars will park after only about a half mile. There is some free camping available in here as well. This is at around 9,800' elevation. If you decide to continue to the 4WD trailhead, continue along the road as it makes a tough creek crossing that will deter most passenger cars and station wagons (and all vehicles at high water). About two miles further is a common parking spot near the turnoff for Pearl Pass at 11,160'. Only the most rugged vehicles will want to continue past here. Don't go to Pearl Pass (a left turn) but continue along the road for another 2.4 miles to the highest trailhead at 12,800'. This makes your day very short and makes Castle Peak one of the fourteeners you can climb with the least amount of elevation gain.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
As previously mentioned, although Castle is technically the easiest 14er in the Elk Range, it is still home to the same notoriously rotten rock that has made the Maroon Bells, Pyramid Peak, and Capitol so infamous. This rock has cost a large number of people their lives throughout the Elk Range. Although Castle is not as exposed or difficult as these other peaks, it is still vitally important to tread very carefully on this loose mountain.

ROUTES

Northeast Ridge (Standard Route)
The Northeast Ridge route on Castle Peak became the standard summer route after a solid trail was constructed through the loose talus on this ridge. From the Castle Creek (standard, see above) trailhead, follow the road to the highest parking lot at 12,800'. Hike south from the parking lot towards Montezuma Basin between Castle (visible ahead) and Conundrum (to the southwest). There is usually a snowfield just past here to ascend. The snow is not particularly steep, but depending on conditions a ice axe might come in handy. After the snowfield follow the distinct trail through the talus as it enters the basin. Soon it will veer left and start to wind up the slope to where it reaches the ridge proper. From here the route gets a bit rougher and more exposed, though with careful routefinding should never exceed class 2. The last bands of rock are a bit steep but not too technical. Enjoy the rounded summit!

blue=Northeast Ridge; green=Castle Couloir; red=Northwest Ridge

Northwest Ridge
Before the construction of the good trail the winds through the talus on the Northeast Ridge route, this used to be the standard way to reach Castle's summit. Today it has fallen out of favor, largely due to the moderate snow climb to reach the saddle between Castle and Conundrum. When the snow melts at the top of this climb a steep, horribly slippery slope caps this route, presenting an even less attractive option. In the winter or spring, however, is snow is abound on both routes, this is probably the easiest and fastest way to reach the summit of Castle Peak. Follow the Northeast Ridge route past the 4WD trailhead and past the first snowfield into Montezuma Basin between the two mountains. Skirt a sinkhole/lake at the base of Conundum Couloir that formed a few years back (some unstable-looking geography through here). Climb the snowfield to the saddle between Castle and Conundrum at 13,800'. This is easiest when there is snow all the way to the saddle, for when the top section melts off (as in the photo above) the last hundred feet or so is on steep, dangerous ball bearings. From the saddle for the blunt ridge to Castle's summit. The terrain shouldn't exceed class 2.

Castle Couloir
A high quality snow climb on Castle Peak when the conditions are right. Follow the Northwest Ridge route into the basing between the two peaks. As you near Castle's North Face, locate the obvious couloir on its east (left) side. This couloir is only in good condition if it has snow for its full length. Climb this couloir for nearly 600 feet where you join the Northeast ridge at about 14,100' for the last pitch to the summit.

West Ridge

The West Ridge on the right skyline

This wilderness excursion offers a unique and exciting way to reach Castle's summit. This would be a good way for the mountaineer that is less concerned about ticking as many 14ers as quickly as possible but really getting the most enriching experience as possible from their mountaineering adventure. This route takes you to the Conundrum Hot Springs, one of the many wonders of the Elk Range. This route is almost certainly done as a backpack as it is 21 miles in length and gains nearly 7,000' of elevation. Most parties will camp at the Hot Springs and attempt the route the following day. While this is a wilderness trek into one of Colorado's most amazing and special basins, don't expect solitude. The Conundrum Hot Springs are notorious for crowds. Avoid holiday weekends and perhaps peak season if don't want to fight for campsites.

From the Conundrum trailhead (see this link for directions to this famous trailhead), hike for 8 miles along the well-defined trail to the Conundrum Hot Springs. This wonderful location is home to two nice hot spring pools at 11,200'. It is hard to beat the hot water at this high altitude. There is also good, designated campsites around the springs. This makes for a dreamy basecamp for your ascent of the West Ridge. Just past the springs, hike along a talus field into a bowl. Continue up along loose rock to a saddle at 13,600 west of 13,803' "Castleabra" (Colorado's 105th tallest peak). Climb up and over "Castleabra" to a 13,600' saddle at the top of "Cunning Couloir" (a reticent and climbable couloir that is also accessed from the Conundrum Trailhead). From here route gets a bit more difficult. Scramble up some class 3 to the summit of unranked Point 13,820. Descend yet again to another saddle at around 13,550' and scramble the last ridge to Castle's summit. Remember, if you are going to descend this route you have to return over Point 13,820 and "Castleabra".


TRIP REPORTS

(none available at this time)

EXTERNAL LINKS

Castle Peak on Summitpost.org
Castle Peak on 14ers.com

PEAK OF THE WEEK: Mt. Elbert

Mt. Elbert 

INTRODUCTION

Mt. Elway, err…I mean Elbert, is Colorado’s tallest mountain and the second tallest in the Continental United States. It is also the tallest mountain of the Sawatch Range, a range filled with towering monsters that boasts 4 of Colorado’s 5 tallest peaks (Elbert #1, Massive #2, Harvard #3, and La Plata #5). Elbert anchors this proud range nicely. Yet another, sometimes underrated, accolade is that Elbert is also the highest mountain in the American Rockies. All things considered, Elbert is a powerful yet relatively gentle mountain.

Like many of the Sawatch Mountains Elbert is not a technical peak. Its gently sloping ridges and rounded battlements present little challenge to the mountaineer other than sheer endurance and little danger other than a dusting of loose rock. Solid class 1 trails ascend Elbert from both the north and the south. Elbert’s stature as a state highpoint and one of the tallest peaks in the Lower Forty-eight make it a popular peak to climb, and summer weekends can bring lines and crowds on the peak’s various routes. For those seeking more challenge and less crowds, Elbert is an excellent winter ascent and can be skied without undue difficulty. 

GETTING THERE

North Mt. Elbert Trailhead 
From Highway 24 approximately 3 miles south of Leadville, turn west onto Highway 300. After .8 mile turn left (south) on CR-11. 1.2 miles farther, follow signs toward Halfmoon Creek and turn right. The North Mt. Elbert TH is five miles farther on the left (south) side of the road. There are several National Forest campsites in the area as well as dispersed camping. The more environmentally correct option is to stay in the developed, fee-based areas. If you must set-up in dispersed areas, please avoid building fire rings, there are plenty already. The North Elbert trailhead is about one half-mile east of the Mt. Massive trailhead (which is on the opposite side of the road).

South Mt. Elbert Trailhead
From Highway 82 four miles west f the Highway 24/82 junction, turn north onto Lake County Road 24. Go 1.5 miles past Lakeview Campground to a parking lot on the west side of the road.


ROUTES

North Mount Elbert Trail [Northeast Ridge] (class 1)
A popular trail that ascends Mt. Elbert's north and east slopes from the Halfmoon Creek basin on the Leadville side of the peak. A mostly excellent trail winds around from the north to the east then ascends the northeast ridge of the peak. The trail gets a little rough above 13,000' but never exceeds high class 1.

South Mount Elbert Trail [East Ridge] (class 1)
Another popular route that ascends Elbert's east side via a very well-defined and popular trail, the South Mt. Elbert trail. It is a toss-up whether this or the North Mt. Elbert trail is the "standard" route. Both are similar in difficulty and length. This seems to be the more common way to climb Elbert in the winter.

Southeast Ridge (class 2)
A far less popular alternative that allows you to climb the unranked "South Elbert" (14,134') en route to the main summit. This route is accessible from the Black Cloud Trailhead off Highway 82 west of Twin Lakes.

Box Creek Cirque (class 3)

Box Creek cirque visible on the left

A fun slow climb in the winter and probably Elbert's most technical route. Follow the North Elbert trail to treeline. The steep Box Creek Cirque will be visible in front of you. Leave the trail and head for the basin, picking one of several semi-defined couloirs to ascend to the top. This cirque would make a good challenging ski descent. Beware, however, of avalanche potential.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS

Mt. Elbert is a relatively mild mountain, but that doesn’t guarantee you safety. By any route ascending Elbert is a long, strenuous journey that will gain at least 4,000’ and keep you high and exposed above treeline for a considerable amount of time, leaving you vulnerable to thunderstorms, high winds, searing UV radiation, etc. In addition, loose scree in some sections of the trail can be painful for the ankles and knees and the possibility of twists, sprains and breaks, however unlikely, is still there. Take care with your feet, stay hydrated, wear sunscreen, and look out for your fellow mountaineers and you should be just fine.

STANDARD ROUTE (North Mount Elbert Trail)

From the trailhead at just over 10,000', follow the North Mt. Elbert Trail as winds through a pristine forest on Elbert's northeast flank. Leave the Colorado Trail behind at mile 1.4 and turn right towards Mt. Elbert. This junction is at about 10,400'. This may be a good place for a short rest as the route becomes much steeper from here.

Around mile 2.7 you reach treeline, and the upper portion of the mountain comes into view (note: you cannot see the actual summit yet). From this point you have about two miles of hiking left but you still must climb over 2,500' of elevation to reach the top.

Once past treeline, the trail begins to switchback steeply up Mt. Elbert's barren northeast ridge. Though the trail is quite good, you may still have to pay close attention to your footing on the steepest sections, especially if you aren't used to hiking on scree at altitude. In terms of difficulty of terrain, this route is slightly harder than the Grays Peak trail but not as hard as the South Slopes standard route up Torreys.

When you reach what has thus far appeared to be the top, you will find that it is only a false summit and the actual top is still a little farther. Depending on what kind of day you are having this may or may not be discouraging. If you're feeling exhausted, take heart knowing that Colorado's highest point is just under a half mile and four-hundred vertical feet away.

On Mt. Elbert's summit you will most likely be joined by hikers who have climbed Elbert from other routes, such as the popular South Mt. Elbert Trail. No matter, this commodious summit has something for everyone. To the north you can look out across the Halfmoon Creek area at Mt. Massive and revel at the might of its girth and lofty summits. Also visible to the north and west are centennial thirteeners Mt. Oklahoma (13,845'), French Mountain (13,940'), Casco Peak (13,908'), and "Lackawanna Peak" (13,823'). The view to the south is dominated by the familiar shapes and humps of other Sawatch fourteeners, especially La Plata (14,336') whose dramatic north face and rugged Ellingwood Ridge are particularly astounding from the vantage atop Elbert. The surrounding mountains are so impressive, in fact, that we once met a man on Elbert's summit who was convinced (and pissed off) that he'd climbed the wrong mountain because others nearby appeared taller. We tried to assure him that distance and perspective can be deceiving and that he was indeed on the highest mountain in the American Rockies.

The last few hundred feet

La Plata from Elbert's summit

TRIP REPORTS

Mt. Elbert: Roof of the Rockies